Cutting Metal Pegboard (Wall Control) for Outlet?

[Spacep0d]

Howdy,

I'm about to put up some metal Wall Control pegboard, but I need to cut a rectangular shape for my electrical outlet. What method would you all recommend to do this? I have a dremel which I think might be the way to go. Anyone got better ideas?

Thanks!

 

[mike93lx]

Oscillating multi tool, jig saw, angle grinder. Lots of options.

I'd probably use a jig saw. Drill out the corners and connect the dots

 

[Dogmeat]

Such a complex question for such a simplex job.....Anxiously waiting for yer next $$...
After all, I'm always willing to learn...sumpin' "new"

 

[MIke.Gradoz]

Agree with the above. I'd use the Jigsaw method with a good metal blade.

 

[PCustoms]

Plasma cutter

 

[16again]

Howdy,

I'm about to put up some metal Wall Control pegboard, but I need to cut a rectangular shape for my electrical outlet. What method would you all recommend to do this? I have a dremel which I think might be the way to go. Anyone got better ideas?

Thanks!

I used a dremel when I did mine. Followed up with a fine file to smooth the sharp edges.

 

[jack stand]

4" angle grinder with a cut off wheel. 2 minute job.

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

Spark generating “Wheel of Death” (4” angle grinder to be more specific)!

 

[CraigStu]

I'd use a drill and jigsaw. I think an oscillating tool would be great also but a little harder to make straight accurate cuts. Since it will be very visible I'd want to end up w/ a nice hole.
Edit to ad; I just had a thought. Will you be spacing the outlet out to be flush w/ the new surface? If you do that then the trim plate would cover a less than perfect hole.

 

[Cryptic1911]

can you get a flat right angle plugged power strip and plug in behind the panel and mount the strip so you don't need to punch a big hole in it? might be worth putting some furring strips across to mount the panels to, just to give you a bit more room behind the panels to accomplish that

 

[rancherbill]

Mount the pegboard to your workbench. I have moved my bench twice to reconfigure and many times to accomplish a single task. My bench is on locking wheels.

As soon as you cut it, it is there for ever, and it now becomes a permanent fixture if you ever sell your house. Put a right plug on your power bar and run up from the bottom you tour bench.

..or..

Acetylene !!!

 

[infinkc]

if you are not extending the outlet plate out, you could use a hole saw also if you are not plugging in a transformer

 

[Shiftless]

I too would drill 4 holes for the corners and then connect the dots using a cut off wheel on an angle grinder. You don’t need a perfect hole because there will be a cover plate over the receptacle right?

Are you putting the wall control pegboard over sheet rock? You’re using furring strips to space it away from the wall. You’ll need a box extender to bring the sides of the box out to match up.

 

[FredWanaker]

we used to have an electrical rail system that hung on the pegboard and it could be moved to any location or height that you wanted. If you add shelves that fixture you cut out will always be in that spot and may get in the way.

 

[thr3squared]

as said above - drill holes at corners, then use jigsaw.

Only thing I would add is to lay down some painters tape first, easy to draw your cut lines with a sharpie, and protect the paint finish.

After the cuts, peel tape and lightly file edges.

 

[Doug]

A Dremel tool and follow the lines. Don't use the exploding wheels, use wheel part #426.

 

[Spacep0d]

I knew you all would have great ideas. Tons of experience and know-how here!

The tools I currently have are a Dremel, Multitool (I think I might even have a blade for metal), drills of course, etc.

I had to Google 'Furring Strips' but this makes sense too so I can create some clearance for a power strip without the need for a hole in the pegboard.

I won't be extending the outlet in any way so it's just a hole to get to the outlet, so I would need to really smooth down the cut hole edges or add a rubber liner of some sort.

For the jigsaw it looks like I need a blade meant for metal. I'll have to see if I have one of those or acquire one.

Thanks for all of the ideas!

 

[Spacep0d]

Such a complex question for such a simplex job.....Anxiously waiting for yer next $$...
After all, I'm always willing to learn...sumpin' "new"

Not sure I understand this comment. Care to elaborate?

 

[Spacep0d]

I went and got some furring strips as I think this will be a great way to get some distance from the workbench wall. Then I can add a power strip and make no cuts to the pegboard, but it's good to know I can cut it using various methods suggested here if needed. I can also just make the cut later if I need access to the power strip plug.

Anyone got suggestions for the type of nails I should use for the furring strips? I forgot to get some! Or, should the furring strips be installed with screws?

 

[mike93lx]

I went and got some furring strips as I think this will be a great way to get some distance from the workbench wall. Then I can add a power strip and make no cuts to the pegboard, but it's good to know I can cut it using various methods suggested here if needed. I can also just make the cut later if I need access to the power strip plug.

Anyone got suggestions for the type of nails I should use for the furring strips? I forgot to get some! Or, should the furring strips be installed with screws?

I'd use decking screws. Long drywall screws could work, but they are very brittle

 

[Shiftless]

I would avoid fastening furring strips anywhere except directly over wall studs. Use screws at least 2 inches long because you have to go through 3/4 inch of wood and half an inch of drywall before you hit the stud inside the wall.

For the electrical, If it was me, I would take the old plastic receptacle plate off, unfasten the duplex receptacle, and use one of these plastic box extenders to extend the box by the thickness of your furring strips, 3/4 inch right?
Then you can use the extra long screws to refasten the duplex receptacle to the box. After you hang the wall control pegboard, you can screw on a nice new clean cover plate. It will look a lot more finished and professional compared to a hole in the metal with a cord passing through.

 

[Spacep0d]

I would avoid fastening furring strips anywhere except directly over wall studs. Use screws at least 2 inches long because you have to go through 3/4 inch of wood and half an inch of drywall before you hit the stud inside the wall.

For the electrical, If it was me, I would take the old plastic receptacle plate off, unfasten the duplex receptacle, and use one of these plastic box extenders to extend the box by the thickness of your furring strips, 3/4 inch right?
Then you can use the extra long screws to refasten the duplex receptacle to the box. After you hang the wall control pegboard, you can screw on a nice new clean cover plate. It will look a lot more finished and professional compared to a hole in the metal with a cord passing through.

@Shiftless I think you're right about this. I'll do the box extender for the circuit. This also means I have to cut a hole in the Wall Control peg board but I don't mind doing that now that I have an idea how to do it.

Also good point on the length of the screws needed! I'll check out decking screws too. Thanks @mike93lx

Thanks!

 

[Shiftless]

I like the star drive (torx) deck screws because they are the easiest to drive in with power. They don’t cam out like phillips sometimes do. You’ll need the right bit of course, probably T-25 but check the specs on the box. There should be a little driver insert in the box.

 

[nadogail]

It Depends; what tools are at your disposal? Sometimes you might only have a hammer and a cold chisel. We work with what we have; not what we would like to have.

 

[rharman]

Instead of furring strips, I went with a 1x2 border. To support the center from sagging, I used a 1" hole saw and made some "wheels". Used those at strategic points to support the span between the border strips. Leaves more holes open for use.

Alternatively, cut a dado in the strips to align with the holes.

I also used finishing (cupped) washers for a clean look. Truss head screws are clean looking too.

 

[Shiftless]

It Depends; what tools are at your disposal? Sometimes you might only have a hammer and a cold chisel. We work with what we have; not what we would like to have.

Absolutely right!
I just assumed the OP had a variable speed electric drill (corded or cordless) to use to drive deck screws.

like rharman just said, using truss head screws to fasten the pegboard to the furring strips give you a more finished look. I used them to mount my pegboard so long ago.

 

[csp]

This also means I have to cut a hole in the Wall Control peg board but I don't mind doing that now that I have an idea how to do it.

Isn't that how this thread started? You are already cutting a hole for the outlet in the pegboard. How is this an also?

 

[CSRPenFab]

I can think of about 13 different ways to easily cut that small rectangle in the pegboard, but I'd likely go the giant punch press route:

 

[Jim1932]

So it sounds like you have an outlet on the wall and you are covering it with the wall control? I would do the Jig saw then get something like a car door edge moulding that you can glue on to make it neater and prevent a sharp edge.

 

[mike93lx]

So it sounds like you have an outlet on the wall and you are covering it with the wall control? I would do the Jig saw then get something like a car door edge moulding that you can glue on to make it neater and prevent a sharp edge.

Don't you use wall plates on your outlets?

 

[rburke65]

This is GM! You need to go o7t and buy the press,8n post #28!

 

[Jim1932]

Don't you use wall plates on your outlets?

wall control is 1/2" off the wall. The outlet and plate would be on the wall under the pegboard. My read is that he is not remounting the outlet to the pegboard surface, he needs a regtangular hole to reach the outlet on the existing wall.

 

[mike93lx]

wall control is 1/2" off the wall. The outlet and plate would be on the wall under the pegboard. My read is that he is not remounting the outlet to the pegboard surface, he needs a regtangular hole to reach the outlet on the existing wall.

Elsewhere in the thread, a box extension was suggested, which I believe the OP agreed made sense. It's so easy to extend an outlet, I don't know why someone wouldn't

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

I went and got some furring strips as I think this will be a great way to get some distance from the workbench wall. Then I can add a power strip and make no cuts to the pegboard, but it's good to know I can cut it using various methods suggested here if needed. I can also just make the cut later if I need access to the power strip plug.

Anyone got suggestions for the type of nails I should use for the furring strips? I forgot to get some! Or, should the furring strips be installed with screws?

No "Wheel of Death"!? How disappointing! Sparks flying is always a sign of "work"!

 

[Spacep0d]

I like the star drive (torx) deck screws because they are the easiest to drive in with power. They don’t cam out like phillips sometimes do. You’ll need the right bit of course, probably T-25 but check the specs on the box. There should be a little driver insert in the box.

Yeah I went and got some screws and went with 2" decking screws, T-20 star drive with included bit. I figured this must be the reason it was hard to find Phillips head so I rolled with it. I do have a Ryobi drill and the bit is on. Thanks!

 

[Spacep0d]

Absolutely right!
I just assumed the OP had a variable speed electric drill (corded or cordless) to use to drive deck screws.

like rharman just said, using truss head screws to fasten the pegboard to the furring strips give you a more finished look. I used them to mount my pegboard so long ago.

Yes of course I have a power drill....variable speed. I like the idea of the truss head screws to mount the pegboard. I went with 2" T-20 star drive screws for the furring strips.

 

[Spacep0d]

So it sounds like you have an outlet on the wall and you are covering it with the wall control? I would do the Jig saw then get something like a car door edge moulding that you can glue on to make it neater and prevent a sharp edge.

Yeppers. I plan to run a power strip through the furring strip (assuming this is safe enough) on to the workbench, possibly avoiding a hole cut. I was also thinking of some kind of moulding like that for the hole if I do end up cutting through the metal. Good idea, thanks!

 

[Spacep0d]

Elsewhere in the thread, a box extension was suggested, which I believe the OP agreed made sense. It's so easy to extend an outlet, I don't know why someone wouldn't

Yes if I go with a hole cut I'm definitely going to extend an outlet. I'll pick one up soon here since I know how thick the furring strips and outlet are. I was also considering just using a power strip that feeds through the furring strips.

 

[Spacep0d]

Isn't that how this thread started? You are already cutting a hole for the outlet in the pegboard. How is this an also?

Yes, but I also didn't know about or think about furring strips. Having this extra clearance means I could also just use a power strip without cutting a hole in the metal. However, I think it would be better to have a nice hole in the metal pegboard with an outlet extender coming through, and a moulding around the cut portion. If I knew all of this going in I probably wouldn't have created a thread, lol. I appreciate everyone's input.

 

[Shiftless]

If you go with the box extender, you won‘t need molding around the cut… the wall plate will cover the cut edge just like the wall plate covers cut drywall.