To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Cutting oil connoisseurs

bluedog225

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 31, 2012
Messages
3,312
Location
Texas
I’ve been using Oatey dark cutting oil. Works great. But it does smoke up the place.

I’d like something with a higher smoke point. And maybe less stink.

I’m not doing anything too serious. 1/4 to 1/2 mild steel.

I vaguely know there are some fancy brands out there. What should I be looking at?

Thanks
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

alfadan

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 9, 2007
Messages
2,117
Location
Augusta, ks
If you're not doing a lot, Crown cutting fluid is like a soluble oil/water cutting fluid but in an aerosol can. Smells nice and works well.
 

Nvrplzd

Well-known member
Joined
May 24, 2022
Messages
314
Location
NCR
This is not in any way a dig at you, however this question has about as many answers as there are members on this site..

I use and enjoy Boelube myself
 

zmotorsports

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Oct 20, 2009
Messages
21,458
Location
Northern Utah
I ferrous materials my go to cutting fluid is the same Oatey Dark Sulphur cutting oil as I like it's "clingability", if that's a word. :ROFLMAO: I tried the Butterfield cutting oil a few years ago and it actually worked well but smells like buttered popcorn. I'm not a popcorn fan and definitely don't want my shop smelling like it. :rolleyes:

I like Mobilmet 766 as it is in my secondary bottle. I also really like Anchorlube but it's a bit on the pricey side. For specific applications I will use it and keep some on hand.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

niget2002

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 2, 2012
Messages
11,237
Location
Josephine, TX
Am I the only one that uses motor oil from vehicles that I no longer own? I have an old case of 10w-something_none_of_my_vehicles_use that I use.
 

nadogail

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2009
Messages
32,048
Location
Coronado, CA
I was given some samples of Tap Matic about 25 years ago and have been buying a since then.

I find myself using about a bottle every five years.
 

dogdog

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 15, 2011
Messages
12,711
Tap magic but it’s expensive, works magic on aluminum too.
 

rancherbill

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 18, 2007
Messages
5,336
Location
Foothills County, Alberta, Canada
I got this secret sauce on another forum. Mix 1/2 motor oil with 1/2 water with dishwashing detergent. The water cools, the oil lubes and the soap allows the oil and water to mix.

It works great and it is cheap and readily available. I made it in a squirt bottle.
 

zippyslug31

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 11, 2017
Messages
207
Location
Central Oregon
What are you using it for? Milling? Turning? Threading? Sawing?

Cutting and drilling
I'm no expert, but I'm under the impression that rather than the operation, the type of material is more of a factor.
Maybe this is more true with turning, but for aluminum I use WD40, stainless something like Anchorlube, probably Tap Magic for steel. Hell I've even used chainsaw bar oil on my lathe for some of my steel work and it does the job.

For a given type of material I'm curious why, say, milling would require a different lube as turning?
 

metlmunchr

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 10, 2011
Messages
1,280
I'm no expert, but I'm under the impression that rather than the operation, the type of material is more of a factor.
Maybe this is more true with turning, but for aluminum I use WD40, stainless something like Anchorlube, probably Tap Magic for steel. Hell I've even used chainsaw bar oil on my lathe for some of my steel work and it does the job.

For a given type of material I'm curious why, say, milling would require a different lube as turning?
When turning steel, the primary concern is avoiding chips welding to the cutting edge. A small amount of dark cutting oil will prevent chip welding. When milling steel with the side of an end mill, the primary concern is avoiding recutting chips that are carried around by the tool and back thru the cut. The same small amount of dark cutting oil will make the cutter more likely to carry chips back thru the cut due to the somewhat sticky nature of cutting oil. Same lube, same material, but one situation gives the desired result while the other situation produces the opposite of desired results.

In a general machine shop environment which is where I come from, you don't necessarily employ the ideal coolant/lube for every situation. Rather, you compromise by typically running a soluble oil coolant that provides some lubrication and a lot of cooling capability across a variety of materials and cutting conditions. In some cases when milling with coated carbide tooling, the best approach is blowing a stream of air on the tool and using no coolant. Keeps the chips cleared and avoids thermally shocking the carbide. Chip welding isn't nearly so much of an issue in milling due the the intermittent contact of the cutting edges with the material.

In the OP's case, where he's primarily drilling holes in steel, there's no question dark cutting oil will give the best combination of tool life and economy. There's other specialized concoctions that may smell better or produce less smoke, but most of those come at a price several times that of dark cutting oil.

I'm not sure what "cutting" means since all machining operations involve metal cutting, but assuming it means sawing, there's only two options. Either use soluble oil flood coolant or cut dry. Keeping the blade clear of chips is key to bandsaw blade life as most lost teeth failures are a result of chips riding in the blade gullets into the cut and then jamming between the blade and the material. One tooth gets jerked out of the blade and stuck in the cut where it proceeds to strip out additional teeth as the blade passes thru. Flood coolant on the leaving side of the cut can wash the chips off the blade, or a small air jet aimed at the cutting edge can keep the chips blown free when cutting dry.
 

zmotorsports

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Oct 20, 2009
Messages
21,458
Location
Northern Utah
@metlmunchr thank you for that detailed response. I hadn't thought about the dark oil causing the side of an end mill to recut the shavings. Now I see that and can adjust as necessary. Thank you.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom