Cutting plastic balusters

[boomer12831]

I am using Fiberon composite balusters for my new deck railings. I am getting them from Lowe's and there does not seem to be alot of help answering questions. I will have to cut an inch or 2 off of each one for them to fit my needs. The one guys answer was '' Why do you want to do that? " My answer was " Because I am a complete idiot ". These are 1.25 square, hollow tubes. Would you turn the blade backwards on the chop saw to cut them ?

 

[PassnThru]

So you've already put your railing up?
By that I mean your upper and lower rail.
Otherwise, why cut that little off?

 

[dfiler2]

I've cut lots of PVC with my miter saw, I would try cutting one off 3/4" and see how it goes. I looked them up on line and they are thick enough that you should be fine.

 

[rburke65]

Make a cut and see for yourself! Don't like it?...then reverse the blade and make another cut. Dah.....

 

[Mustang1167]

I cut the same railings with a plywood blade on a miter saw. Blade facing normal direction. Take it slow and you won't have any issues. If the balusters splinter split and crack flip the blade around.

 

[bad_idea]

One more vote for throw them through the miter saw. I just cut some PVC door trim with my miter saw. I'm not a carpenter, can't remember what blade is on it. I remember I bought an expensive blade to replace the one I destroyed doing laminate flooring (a couple years ago). Long story short, it made a beautiful cut edge on the PVC when I took it slow.

 

[boomer12831]

Thanks for the replies. I cut a piece of pvc on the chop saw once and it shattered all over the place so I was just wondering if there is a better way. I have to cut 56 of them.

 

[derosa]

As mentioned get a plywood saw, smooth cuts have to do with teeth in the object being cut, one of the fine tooth, non-carbide blades will do a real smooth job. I have cut schedule 40 with an 80t blade but it did require cutting slowly to keep it smooth. Balusters are probably thinner so go finest tooth. And you can always reverse the blade which works for cutting siding

 

[pattenp]

There are saw blades made for cutting plastic/PVC.

Here's one example...
http://www.carbideprocessors.com/pl...MIxeaVrfCp1gIVC1mGCh0LGgyCEAQYAiABEgKeiPD_BwE

 

[manwithtools]

There are saw blades made for cutting plastic/PVC.

Here's one example...
http://www.carbideprocessors.com/pl...MIxeaVrfCp1gIVC1mGCh0LGgyCEAQYAiABEgKeiPD_BwE

Excellent suggestion. I would try it with a typical carbide wood blade first though. I think you'll find it works just fine. If not, buy the plastic blade.

 

[Milton Shaw]

Plywood blades are normally one for about an inch and half cut then the blade thickens. Would not work very well for PVC thicker than the cutting part of the blade. Get plastics blade or reverse would be my thoughts.

 

[LXCam]

Like these guys suggested. Just get a fine tooth blade. 80-90 range and go slow and you'll be fine. I just did a composite deck a couple months back with a ~90 tooth blade made for plastic composite materials and every cut turned out perfectly clean, that was $60 worth spending.

 

[Marctrees]

Bandsaw may be best if you have one. Marc

 

[jack stand]

Cut'em before it gets any colder! The hotter the better.

 

[tre873]

Hand saw and a miter box would be my best bet. I know you have a lot to cut, but I don't think you would splinter or crack one with a hand saw.

 

[Firstram]

Thanks for the replies. I cut a piece of pvc on the chop saw once and it shattered all over the place so I was just wondering if there is a better way. I have to cut 56 of them.

This usually happens because the stock is not firmly supported while cutting!

To get the best and safest cut possible build a wood sled/fence for your miter saw. It doesn't need to be fancy, just make a strong back with 2x6 bottom and 2x4 back about 2 1/2 times the length of the picket. Keep the fasteners out of the center where you will be cutting! Solidly attach it, centered, to the bed of the saw however you see fit. I drill holes thru all of my saw fences so I can screw fixtures of all sorts from behind.

If you can adjust the depth of cut on your saw, adjust it so you don't cut thru the 2x6. If it's not adjustable you can tape a small block of wood to the blade depth stop, or stop pushing down once the part is cut. If you use the stop cutting method try to keep the electric brake from cutting thru the bottom.

Now you have a zero clearance fence/table which will greatly reduce tearout and fully support your stock. It is long enough to clamp a stop on each end to keep any picket details centered if you need to cut both ends.

 

[The Cobbler]

a sharp carbide blade with slow feed ( don't ram the saw into the plastic) keep the saw clear of debris , hold firmly against the fence and you will do a fine job.
test one to be sure but I'm sure you won't have any problems .
as mentioned make a fence to **** the pcs up to so you don't have to measure each pc.
let the saw stop before trying to remove the stock so you don't bind it in the saw . I would probably actually keep the saw down and let it stop before raising the blade.