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Cutting rectangle holes and stainless steel

Rc_Guy

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The wife and I are going to put stainless steel backsplash around our kitchen cupboards, what is the best way to cut the holes for the outlets and switches?

I assume I do not want to heat it up too much cutting it and discolor the metal.
 
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u3b3rg33k

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Carbide sawzall blade and someone spraying water on the back side? Plasma will discolor the edge slightly, but it would be covered by the faceplates.
 
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Mark_17

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See if you can have it waterjet cut. That would leave the best finish
 

cmandp

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I would say it depends. How many are you doing, what tools do you have and what are you willing to spend on new tools or for say a shop to cut them out for you? Also how thick of stainless and what alloy?

I would probably use an angle grinder or drill a couple of starter holes an use a jigsaw but that's just me and the tools I have available.
 
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Rc_Guy

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I would say it depends. How many are you doing, what tools do you have and what are you willing to spend on new tools or for say a shop to cut them out for you? Also how thick of stainless and what alloy?

I would probably use an angle grinder or drill a couple of starter holes an use a jigsaw but that's just me and the tools I have available.

22 guage most likely.

I don't mind buying new tools though
 

Doug Arthurs

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Good excuse to buy that CNC milling machine or router you have always wanted. You did say you didn't mind buying a tool right?
 

dr_clyde

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If it's gonna get covered up then pretty much anything will work. 22ga is really thin, but I'd think even a hole saw would work. Back it with some plywood and go slow.
 

danielbuck

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yep, drill corners and cut. If you want a tight radius, use a smaller drill bit, and drill a few holes in line with each other until you can slip the blade in there. Debur the edges and it should look nice.

If these are for outlets though, is the outlet cover covering up the entire hole? Then you wouldn't need to be all that careful, just get it close.
 

larry4406

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Make sure you have good clearance to the electric boxes and wires fully pushed in.

Would **** to have it conduct live one day.
 
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tarbellb

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Jigsaw or even a steadyhand angle grinder. Slight discolor about ~1/4" from edges, plates should cover. But its easy to blend out with grey Scotchbrite pads, brushing w/ grain.

We cut stainless sheet all the time using the angle grinder.

1izfqg.jpg
 

ilovevocs

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22ga is easy thin stuff

Drill holes for the corners and use a nibbler or snips.



Tin snips, step drill. Layout with fine point sharpie, drill hole in center, cut.

I would assume your going to have to purchase some snips for the install anyhow for some minor cuts.

Snips aren’t like scissors; you will have to dedicate some time to learning how to get a clean cut.

Don’t close your snips all the way when your cutting; it’s the biggest rookie mistake and it dimples the metal like crazy.

This is some super expensive material to learn how to cut on. Handling gauge sheet takes some skill as well to ensure you don’t kink, dent, or dimple it. 22 gauge isn’t terrible but you should still be cognizant of it while working with it.

I would try to find some 24 / 22 ga steel to practice what ever technique you decide upon.
 

ericlar80

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California
Should this be grounded to the electric box? Sorry, nothing to do with cutting it.

Sent from my SM-G965U using The Garage Journal mobile app


He should add an extension to the electrical box to cover up the metal, or ground it. Otherwise it is dangerous and (rightfully) not up to code. If there is more than 1 outlet, a single ground with good contact for the entire back splash would be sufficient.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Electrical-Box-Extender-BE1-2/202708650
 

wilb1976

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Maui
Totally agree with the holes in the corners and jigsaw with stainless blade. We’ve also used thin cutoff wheels, .040”, I think or even thinner on an angle grinder to start or even complete the cut. I’ve cut dozens of holes in stainless elevator panels for new fixtures. I would cut from the backside or put several layers of painters tape around the location as to not scratch the finish.
 

Marctrees

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The problem w using a hand held "Jigsaw" .. is that some of the swarf gets between the shoe and the workpiece.. scratching it.

Taping the face can help, but still can often allow damage.

Even doing the work w saw on backside does not guarantee success.

No guarantee.. and just one damaged opening on a multi opening panel can ruin the entire piece.

I, myself, having limited selection of shears and no nibbler, would drill the corners with a step bit and use a 2" cutoff wheel in a grinder.

And.. 23 Ga is way overkill.. backsplash in residential occupancy I'd get more like 28Ga.

Marc
 

matt_i

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SE Michigan
I'd try a Hougen/Blair cutter (precision sheetmetal holesaw) and a nibbler to cut things cleanly.

The nibbler does contact the metal as it moves along, so it would be best to cut from the backside. The one I bought is by Knipex and works fantastically on ductwork. 22ga stainless may be too much for it, but there could be other heavier duty brands. I think there is an air operated nibbler as well.





 
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