CV boot tools/techniques - expander/cone/split boot/separate the joint?

[sevensandeights]

Looking for real world advice for passenger side outer CV boot repair on a 2009 Nissan Rogue with 180k miles in the rust belt. I'm really intrigued by the split boots. Anyone use them? I'll probably only have 2 more years with this car until rust claims its life so not worried too much about longevity.

I replaced the driver's side CV shaft about a year ago because of a torn boot (cheapest one on RockAuto IIRC). Both those boots are already showing signs of dry rot/cracking so not thrilled with that product. Nothing was wrong with the joints (driver or pass. side) so replacing the entire shaft to fix a torn boot is difficult to comprehend. In addition, I don't really want to go that route on the passenger side because it seems to be a bigger hassle to get that side out due to the intermediate bearing. Would much prefer to not completely remove the shaft so expander tool or cone are also options. I don't mind paying $100 for an expander tool if it's worth it. All the cheap ones on Amazon don't have many reviews. Thoughts on the tool or type of expandable boots?

I could separate the joint but would much prefer to leave the shaft on the vehicle. Not sure how difficult it would be pound the joint off and then re-assemble with the shaft still on the vehicle though.

 

[sevensandeights]

Anybody? I'd like to get tools/parts ordered so I can take care of it this weekend.

I did some more reading and found the split boots to be an old concept. Never really caught on due in part to not working well I suppose. For $20, I might give it a try though . . .

 

[Jeepster04]

I can remember my dad using the split boot many as year ago. He knew he was getting ready to trade the vehicle so it was a no brainer to him. Why not give it a try and see what happens?

I personally always remove the axle shaft and replace the boot. Its easy on my vehicles, so maybe I'm a bit spoiled. I can have one done in under an hour. Coincidently just ordered two spares last night to have on hand. Similar to you, I used a brand that evidently ***** and before I knew it, I had replaced quite a few of them with this crappy brand (crown) so I ended up having to do them all again.

 

[Great white]

Split boots are near useless in my experiences.

I’d be surprised if it lasted 6 months, let alone 2 years.

 

[JradM]

I'd be tempted to try the split boots so long as I was willing to monitor it for awhile. I expect the quality of repair depends HEAVILY on how clean you can keep the seams until it is sealed and glued. I doubt that's easy because if you get any grease on the seam, more can leak out later. Reviews seem mixed - and I suspect that is because it's not easy to keep everything aligned and grease-free.

The expander tools make more sense, but you've almost got the CV axle off the vehicle at that point anyway, so... up to you whether that's worth it.

I was researching this topic recently because both outer CV boots are leaking on my F150. The leaks both appear very small and recent (hardly any oil residue and it's very localized). Seems like a major pain in the rear to fix such small problems.

In my case, by the time I have the outer end of the CV axel out, I might as well just take the entire thing off the truck anyway. Doesn't seem like the expander tool would save me much time. A split boot though... that could be FAST in comparison.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Just drive it. Unless it's clicking or vibrating, it's acceptable for the use you're looking at. Split boots are a massive waste of time. Unless your goal is to throw 100% of the grease around in the wheel well. I would drive with a torn boot, before wasting time on a split boot. If you only have 2 years before the car is dead, it seems the product you used for the LF would meet the expected service life, correct?


I would throw a cheapo rock auto axle in before I tried to reboot. You're talking sub-$100 for an axle on RA. I understand not wanting to deal with the intermediate bearing. You really want to just remove the whole bracket with the axle, then beat the axle out with the assembly removed. It's a PITA to work around the typical dying flex pipe as well.

 

[richfinn]

I used to be able to fit genuine outer GM CV boots to Vauxhall/Opel models in 15 mins, cut the clips, razor blade the boot, open the circlip and pull the shaft as far out as it would come, then get a strong "assistant" with a massive pry bar to push the entire engine/gearbox over by stretching the rubber motor/transmission mounts and we could swing the shaft out, clean, grease and reassemble with new clamps.

We never even touched the hub nut or ball joint

They paid us 1.2 hrs each boot (we could do 14 hrs per 8 hr shift some days!!!)

I once watched a guy do a 1.5hr Cambelt job in 6 minutes flat (we timed him)

Happy days, until they ruined it with a new generation of models that were all absolute **** to work on.

My vote is buy genuine boots and think about it carefully before you attack the job!!!

 

[sevensandeights]

Just drive it. Unless it's clicking or vibrating, it's acceptable for the use you're looking at. Split boots are a massive waste of time. Unless your goal is to throw 100% of the grease around in the wheel well. I would drive with a torn boot, before wasting time on a split boot. If you only have 2 years before the car is dead, it seems the product you used for the LF would meet the expected service life, correct?


I would throw a cheapo rock auto axle in before I tried to reboot. You're talking sub-$100 for an axle on RA. I understand not wanting to deal with the intermediate bearing. You really want to just remove the whole bracket with the axle, then beat the axle out with the assembly removed. It's a PITA to work around the typical dying flex pipe as well.

I absolutely agree if I was driving the car. However, my son is driving it back and forth to college. 3 hr drive from Erie to Morgantown (right past you in the 'Burgh!).

He was all set to leave last Saturday morning. We had the car up on the lift to put some snow tires on and saw the boot. It's ripped completely in half. I sent him back in his younger brother's car (still in HS) so I could fix it before he comes back for Christmas break. Woke up to a foot of snow this morning so now we get to deal with that too!

 

[2ndGearRubber]

I absolutely agree if I was driving the car. However, my son is driving it back and forth to college. 3 hr drive from Erie to Morgantown (right past you in the 'Burgh!).

He was all set to leave last Saturday morning. We had the car up on the lift to put some snow tires on and saw the boot. It's ripped completely in half. I sent him back in his younger brother's car (still in HS) so I could fix it before he comes back for Christmas break. Woke up to a foot of snow this morning so now we get to deal with that too!

I would recommend swapping a cheapie axle then. Your other option would be a used junk yard axle, complete with bracket.

Labor time blows on those because both the LF and RF pay the same, 1.8 hours IIRC. My preference is pulling the whole bracket, but it can be very tough working around the exhaust. The ideal move is remove the 3 bolt triangular flange to the manifold cat (LOL I know those look peachy) and then pop the hanger out/remove the hanger bracket for the next hanger on the front subframe. Then you can more "easily" unbolt the bracket. You need to fight and wiggle, but the whole bracket/axle assembly will fit out. Biggest issue is getting to all the bolts.

Your main variables are separating the bracket from the axle, and the exhaust condition. If the exhaust is rough, I would frankly recommend using a shop so they can get torches involved. Sometimes heat cycles are required for the bracket as well, I think I only melted a few axles out of the bracket. IDK what Nissan did wrong, but those boots sucked. I put both lower control arms, and both axles, in a LOT of Rouges.

 

[no704]

Flex seal tape!

 

[bwringer]

It hasn't been worth changing just the boot in many, many years.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

Sounds like $100 CV is the best option. Next best option is a college kid finds out how ****** CV grease is.

I have a hole in a CV boot on my RZR that I've been putting off. I'd much rather deal with Porsche 930's or 934's than stupid UTV ****.

 

[xjfish]

It hasn't been worth changing just the boot in many, many years.

Usually not, but in some cases it is. Euro Imports and ATVs for me lately. BTW parts house new axles are typically junk compared to OE...

Edit: BTW IMO don't waste your time with split boots. Pull axle and do it right. If joint is contaminated and gritty, replace it!

 

[sevensandeights]

Well - in typical garage journal style, I asked for advice and then ignored it! I went with the split boot. I took my time and it turned out well but only time will tell if it lasts. I did get a new tool out of the deal though: Knipex ear clamp pliers.

I'll report back if/when it fails.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

Save yourself the time and just throw handfulls of grease all over your fender liner and then pull it all apart and put a proper boot on.

 

[bwringer]

I've never seen one work for very long, but hell, maybe, in 2023, technology has advanced or something.

 

[sevensandeights]

Update - I got 6 months out of the boot and it tore. Part of the failure is likely due to having to cut the boot to fit so I likely cut it too short and then it stretched during suspension droop and turns. I remember not being happy with the fit after I cut it since you loose length and diameter for every ring you cut off. Leaving one more ring in place made the boot seem too loose though.

Oh well - I have to replace lower control arms for both sides to pass PA inspection so am planning to separate the inner CV joints and replace all the boots while I'm at it. One question I have is do I have to separate the outer joint? Seems like if I separate the inner joint and remove the shaft I should be able just remove the tripod bearing and then slide the outer boot on and then the inner boot, correct?

 

[oldschoolcraft]

17 posts and I haven't learned about a single TOOL to add to my wish list to do deal with CV joints or boots.

Pullers? Pickle forks? Just one more hit of some sweet tools please.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Update - I got 6 months out of the boot and it tore. Part of the failure is likely due to having to cut the boot to fit so I likely cut it too short and then it stretched during suspension droop and turns. I remember not being happy with the fit after I cut it since you loose length and diameter for every ring you cut off. Leaving one more ring in place made the boot seem too loose though.

Oh well - I have to replace lower control arms for both sides to pass PA inspection so am planning to separate the inner CV joints and replace all the boots while I'm at it. One question I have is do I have to separate the outer joint? Seems like if I separate the inner joint and remove the shaft I should be able just remove the tripod bearing and then slide the outer boot on and then the inner boot, correct?

Correct. You can deal with the inner or outer joint without messing with the other.

 

[rust in the eye]

Since you learned your lesson about split boots and seem unwilling to swap the axle a stretchy boot is your best option.
You don't need any special tools unless you want to buy the cone they sell. I've done it using a long, narrow (trans filler) funnel cut to size of the CV joint.
The ONE I've done so far; It made sense in this case as the axle was a-okay, Ford didn't sell the boot alone and it was just a small split starting to toss grease around. It has been satisfactory so far. Given how flexible these things are I expect it to last a long time.
The amount these things can stretch and recover is amazing. Installing is like watching a birth.
You'll need plenty of lube on the cone and significant hand strength. Allow the boot a few minutes to recover before clamping it.

Oops, missed that you intend to replace all the boots after separating the outer CV.

 

[nh_yota]

17 posts and I haven't learned about a single TOOL to add to my wish list to do deal with CV joints or boots.

Pullers? Pickle forks? Just one more hit of some sweet tools please.

Toyota sells a boot kit with everything I need to replace the boots on my Tacoma CV axles - now I just need to find the time to do it.

I bought a couple of tools from Lisle to make the task a little easier:

30800 CV Boot Clamp Pliers

For Ear-Type Clamps.

www.lislecorp.com

44900 Lock Ring Pliers

For Removing and Installing All Types of Lock Rings.

www.lislecorp.com

 

[sevensandeights]

Thanks for all the replies and I'm glad I don't have to separate the outer joint!

I'm not unwilling to put new cv axles in. I just don't think it's the best option for time/money considerations. I have to tear the front end apart to replace the LCA's anyways. I've already replaced the driver's side cv axle and the boots are starting to dry rot so don't want to go that route again. The passenger side axle is notoriously difficult to remove due to the intermediate bearing.

 

[sevensandeights]

I bought these Knipex ear clamp pliers when I put the split boot on. On sale for $25ish at the time.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

I have those knipex, they work great.

 

[Blind1]

Toyota sells a boot kit with everything I need to replace the boots on my Tacoma CV axles - now I just need to find the time to do it.

I bought a couple of tools from Lisle to make the task a little easier:

30800 CV Boot Clamp Pliers

For Ear-Type Clamps.

www.lislecorp.com

44900 Lock Ring Pliers

For Removing and Installing All Types of Lock Rings.

www.lislecorp.com

I couldn’t get the tripod separated on my Tacoma. Ended up paying a shop $90 to reboot it for me.

I reinstalled it. Ended up costing about $150 total with me doing the majority of the labor.

Toyota wanted $600+.

 

[Steve_P]

If it's your vehicle, or you know the vehicle, and it hasn't been driven for 2 years with no boot, I like to replace the boots. Once you have the axle out, it isn't difficult to change the boot IMO. Yes, it's messy, but it's not difficult, and a cheap pair of the clamp pliers is all you need along with the boot kit. If you work in a shop, then yeah, get some remans from the parts store.

I've had one somewhat bad experience with remans where the replacement ones I got had heavy seal scores, but thankfully they didn't leak, and then one axle pulled out of the transmission shortly after install- one joint was very stiff from the remanufacturer installing oversized bearings to salvage a worn out joint driven forever with no boot. YMMV.

For the easy route, the cost of a reman axle from Auto Zone makes sense to just go that route. To reboot, if not OE, then Raxles boot kits have been great for me.

 

[FigN⋅m]

Toyota sells a boot kit with everything I need to replace the boots on my Tacoma CV axles - now I just need to find the time to do it.

I bought a couple of tools from Lisle to make the task a little easier:

30800 CV Boot Clamp Pliers

For Ear-Type Clamps.

www.lislecorp.com

44900 Lock Ring Pliers

For Removing and Installing All Types of Lock Rings.

www.lislecorp.com

Don't know what vintage Taco you have, or if it's lifted, but if you are doing the OEM reboot kit (good stuff!)
and doing a boot stretch, the supplied inner clamp will no longer work. I used cable ties for a surprisingly long time,
but ultimately purchased a boot-specific set of hose clamps to keep things snug.

 

[nh_yota]

Don't know what vintage Taco you have, or if it's lifted, but if you are doing the OEM reboot kit (good stuff!)
and doing a boot stretch, the supplied inner clamp will no longer work. I used cable ties for a surprisingly long time,
but ultimately purchased a boot-specific set of hose clamps to keep things snug.

Nah I'm not stretching them, just removing the locking clips to get one of the joints off then slip both boots onto the axle.

 

[sevensandeights]

Started on the passenger side today. Took the LCA off and slipped the axle shaft through the bearing. Next step was to remove the inner boot so I could pull the axle. Weird thing though is there was no wire clip holding the tripod bearing in the cup. The axle just pulled right out! I can see how the clip doesn't really do anything (especially once the axle nut is on) but still seems like it should be used and does hold the shaft in while putting the boot on. Hopefully the dealer has one. I already have to go there to get rear caliper bolts because I couldn't find them local or at rockauto.

 

[dchawk81]

How badly torn is the boot? Maybe some black RTV to seal it back up?

EOL beaters I tend to do as little as possible unless it's a safety issue.

Edit: Nevermind saw it's torn in half a few posts later.

 

[sevensandeights]

$30+ for that part (retaining clip) from the dealer per my online search!!! Haven't talked to my local dealer yet though.

 

[inphx]

Rockauto has replacement cv axles $40 to $80 buck range... You have it apart, so why not take the easy path? Up the brand quality?

2009 NISSAN ROGUE 2.5L L4 CV Axle | Shop Now at RockAuto

Drivetrain Parts and More for Your 2009 NISSAN ROGUE at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

www.rockauto.com

 

[joe_pinehill1]

It hasn't been worth changing just the boot in many, many years.

Ive used CARDONE from RockAuto, and when I needed one that day, ~120 from NAPA. They do the job and time is money.

Its like the suppliers now offering complete knuckle/bearing/hub assemblies. Simple remove and replace. No need to fight getting a ball joint and bearing out of the knuckle.

 

[silkman]

In the VW/Audi world, reman complete shafts are always ****. Do the time and do the job, a boot only (without the joint is 10-15eur here). Get the "thermoplastic" ones, they last indifinitely compared to rubber. Neoprene is also ****.

For the stainless steel boot clamps we use this tool here in Europe, 3/8" torque to 30Nm