D-ILTCOA Light

[imagineer]

I need to install a D-ILTCOA light and have a oddball idea. What's a D-ILTCOA light you ask? "Damn, I Left The Compressor On Again" light. Despite leaving myself notes on the shop light switch and making frequent (after welding) 'return to the shop to look for smoke' trips, I still continue to leave the damn compressor on. Since I usually don't go out to the workshop from late Sunday to early the next Saturday, the compressor is being left to cycle continuously as it bleeds down all week.

I've investigated all sorts of scenarios for using current sensing relays, timers and auxiliary pressure switches to accomplish what I want, but I think this latest idea might be the ticket.

A quick detour...in the not too distant future, my work shop will be significantly rearranged to accommodate a small milling machine. For lack of a better option, this new mill (Jet JMD-18) will be located, just about in front of the air compressor (Husky 220v, 60 gal). I'll extend the compressor water drain to make it accessible, but the on/off pressure switch will be awkward to reach. Sure I could relocate it, but it still won't help me with adding a D-ILTCOA light.

So, I'm thinking I'll add a 2 pole disconnect switch in a convenient location between the electric service panel and the compressor. I'll leave the compressor on/off pressure switch in the ON position, and use the new disconnect to control the compressor. I don't recall where I got it or why, but I've got a 110v LED loading dock signal light that I'll power with one hot leg of the disconnect switch and I'll run a new neutral wire back to the electric service panel. The new LED light will be mounted on the exterior of the workshop facing the main house. After dark, it will be very noticeable when lit.

The idea is that when I turn on the compressor via the new disconnect switch, the LED D-ILTCOA light will also light up, and it will stay lit whether the compressor is running or at pressure and idle.

Does this sound like an OK idea?

Another reason for using the LED loading dock light. I'm adding a 110v 'on demand' water pump at the workshop to provide Mrs. Imagineer an easier means of using the 4 barrels of stored rainwater on her garden. The LED loading dock light has 2 lights, red and green. I'll use one for the compressor, and the other will be the "D-YLTWPOA" light. (Dear, You Left The Water Pump On Again).

 

[jbfsr]

My compressor is in the basement near the main panel. The garage is at the opposite end of the house. I leave the compressor on all the time. Had the same problem with cycling when I forgot to turn the valve off. I added a solenoid valve at the compressor controlled by a wireless switch at the garage door. No more up and down the steps.

 

[Norcal]

One option is wire a 12 Hr spring wound timer into the compressor control circuit, when air is desired estimate how long your going to be in the shop & set the timer a bit longer, that way it will shut off even if it's forgotten., I do that with my evaporative cooler for different reasons.

 

[wssix99]

The idea is that when I turn on the compressor via the new disconnect switch, the LED D-ILTCOA light will also light up, and it will stay lit whether the compressor is running or at pressure and idle.

Have the disconnect switch drive a double pole contactor, with one pole providing power to the compressor and the other pole providing power to a light. You can then use any light you want in any configuration.

 

[imagineer]

I was going to use the 30amp fused disconnect only because I already have it, but I like the idea of using a contactor. It opens up more options for what type of switch to use.

Would a 24vac or 110vac coil contactor be better? Currently, there's no 24vac transformer on the shop electric panel.
If I can't find a suitable double 2 -pole contactor, any problem using a single 2-pole contactor and feeding the 110v LED light from one leg?

or, I find a 3-pole contactor (I'm sure I can scavenge one from work). Run two legs to the compressor and the 3rd for the LED light.

 

[nh_yota]

Wire a contactor into the main lighting circuit for the shop so when you shut off the lights it shuts off the compressor.

 

[nadogail]

There are many ways to rig a light that will indicate power is available to the compressor, almost all of them will work. The method you use will need to take into account several things including:: Your Electrical Knowledge, The materials you have available, How the compressor is powered and wired and lastly how much money do you want to spend.

 

[wssix99]

I was going to use the 30amp fused disconnect only because I already have it, but I like the idea of using a contactor. It opens up more options for what type of switch to use.

Would a 24vac or 110vac coil contactor be better? Currently, there's no 24vac transformer on the shop electric panel.
If I can't find a suitable double 2 -pole contactor, any problem using a single 2-pole contactor and feeding the 110v LED light from one leg?

or, I find a 3-pole contactor (I'm sure I can scavenge one from work). Run two legs to the compressor and the 3rd for the LED light.

You would only need the contactor if the power for your light and compressor is different or comes from different circuits. If it's just a simple 120V circuit, I would think you could skip the contactor and just wire up a light to the circuit.

I like the 120V contactors because one doesn't need the transformer. Simple.

 

[imagineer]

I've got it figured out.

I found an Eaton 3ph, 110v coil contactor among the misc electrical supplies at work. I'll run the existing 220v for the compressor through lugs 1 & 2 on the contactor to the pressure switch. I'll run a separate 110v though the 3rd lug on the contactor to power the LED light. I'll run a new 110v circuit to the contactor coil via a panel switch from a retired drill press. The panel switch and contactor will be in the same enclosure.

nh_yota, wiring the contactor to the shop lights means the compressor is powered each time the lights are turned on, whether I need/want the compressor running or not.

 

[imagineer]

What are the odds…I got the compressor remote start/warning light system together this weekend and turns out the contactor was ****.

Because I’m the nervous type, I opted to check the contactor before hitting the start button. With the coil not energized, I was getting full 120v on the load side of 2 of the 3 lugs.

Not knowing how quickly I could get a replacement contactor, I bypassed the new remote start/warning light system, only to have the pressure switch short out.