Daisy chaining GFCI receptacles

[Wakesurfer]

Hopefully this is not a repeat question, but I didn't find it when I searched!

I am planning the electrical for a 30x45' garage/workshop. I have installed 4 outside receptacles around the perimeter and was planning to run 3 20A circuits to cover all of the inside and outside 120V receptacles. I know they require GFCI protection, but I have been debating how to accomplish that in the most efficient and reliable manner. I could do one of the following options:

1) use a 20A GFCI breaker for each circuit,
2) wire them with a single GFCI receptacle upstream in each circuit,
or 3) wire them all independently with GFCIs (that would be $$ and a PITA in each box!

I was leaning toward the GFCI receptacle upstream, but my only hesitation is the outdoor receptacles. I have had issues before with outside GFCI receptacles tripping since they are susceptible to moisture and corrosion. I could wire the outside receptacles all on their own circuit, but their location (all four corners) would use a lot of wire. I could also wire the outdoor receptacles in parallel with indoor receptacles and use a GFCI receptacle on each outdoor location and at the beginning of the inside run.

Any advice???

 

[Gunslinger99]

Current code in my area requires exterior receptacles to be in a weather proof box. Such as this...

http://www.aifittings.com/catalog/w...ew-stucco-textured-surfaces-and-rigid-siding/

This should help with moisture and corrosion you are speaking about.

As for the location of the gfi. I would put it where it is most convenient to reset if the gfi trips. The panel is probably the least convenient especially if you are on the opposite end of your shop. Not to mention gfi breakers are more expensive then regular ones. I'd go with installing them upstream. No need to put a gfi at every location. Waste of money. If its not far to walk from the exterior plugs to the upstream gfi go ahead and wire them into the interior plugs. You could also run the wire coming from the panel to the outside box first, pigtail the wires so only power is ran to the next box and hook the power from the pigtail to the line of the gfi. If that makes any sense..... That's what I did on a few of my exterior plugs. Kind of of pita to get all that wire to fit in the box this way though. But resetting the gfi is convenient....

Hope this helps.....

 

[Speedy Petey]

Current code in my area requires exterior receptacles to be in a weather proof box. Such as this...

http://www.aifittings.com/catalog/w...ew-stucco-textured-surfaces-and-rigid-siding/

It's not that they need that type of box, they just need an "in-use" cover; one that can be closed over the cord cap once it's plugged in. The one in the link is a great solution to this requirement, but not nearly the only one.

Also, the newest codes require all outside receptacles to be WR, or weather resistant. They have stainless steel components and screws.
Personally I HATE these things. They are all made with cheap **** Chinese stainless that is stupidly soft. The metal bends and the screws strip out easier than you'd ever expect.

I'd also place a GFI receptacle at the beginning of each circuit, and keep that one inside.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

It's not that they need that type of box, they just need an "in-use" cover; one that can be closed over the cord cap once it's plugged in. The one in the link is a great solution to this requirement, but not nearly the only one.

Also, the newest codes require all outside receptacles to be WR, or weather resistant. They have stainless steel components and screws.
Personally I HATE these things. They are all made with cheap **** Chinese stainless that is stupidly soft. The metal bends and the screws strip out easier than you'd ever expect.

I'd also place a GFI receptacle at the beginning of each circuit, and keep that one inside.

 

[Gary S]

I put a separate GFI receptacle outside in each box. I used boxes designed for outdoor use, and have never had one trip yet in the last 21 years. I feel the boxes really work.
But, this way, when one does eventually trip, all I have to do is reset it at the plug location where I'm working.

 

[eljefino]

Are these going to be on all four corners? That's going to guzzle wire any way you look at it.

I'd do a GFCI outlet at the beginning then junction boxes inside with couple-foot-long pigtails running to non-GFI weather resistant outside outlets. Then if they make you mad you can make the first GFCI "not passthrough" and every following outlet a GFI. And not running the daisy chain wire outside to each outlet will cut down on posisibilities of corrosion problems.

I'd count on future GFIs being cheaper and better than the ones available today, so put off purchasing a bunch. Conversely, today's GFI at the start of your run might be sufficient and surprise you.

 

[Gary S]

Today's GFCI receptacles are so cheap, that you can't hope for them to get much cheaper. I'm getting them for $5-6 each on sale.
Do it now and don't look back.

 

[ddawg16]

3 20A ckts? 3 GFCI's. Install the GFCI in the first box for each ckt....the remaining outlets will be wired to the load side of the GFCI.

The outside outlets don't care where the GFCI is as long as it's on one...

 

[MN4x4]

Do one GFCI outlet per location. There is nothing more frustrating than walking around the house to reset the breaker, then going back to the first location only to have it trip again.

Ask me how I know?

 

[Speedy Petey]

Today's GFCI receptacles are so cheap, that you can't hope for them to get much cheaper. I'm getting them for $5-6 each on sale.
Do it now and don't look back.

If you are getting GFI's for $5 there is NO way they are any kind of a name brand, and are most likely junk!

I pay like $12-14 for a TR 15A GFI. If you get non-TR you can save a couple of bucks.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

If you install the GFCI outside in the weatherproof boxes (or regular receptacles for that matter) I think the code now requires you to use a WR (weather resistant) receptacle/GFCI. You may have to go to an electrical supply house to get them. They should hold up better in the environment outside, than standard ones.

Leviton Weather Resistant GFCI

Cooper WR GFCI

Leviton Duplex receptacle, not GFCI, but is both Tamper Resistant, and Weather Resistant. Cannot be picky however, these are white color, but good price, $4.95 each (make a big order to keep the shipping reasonable.

FruitRidge Tools is great to deal with.

Charles

 

[Gary S]

If you are getting GFI's for $5 there is NO way they are any kind of a name brand, and are most likely junk!

I pay like $12-14 for a TR 15A GFI. If you get non-TR you can save a couple of bucks.

If they are junk, they are performing perfectly. The oldest ones are 20 years old with no failures. The newest ones are 10 years old with no failures. They don't false trip outdoors, rain or snow, winter or summer.
I don't know what yours can do better.

Maybe you are paying too much......................

Name brand often means you pay for the same item, but pay more for the name.

 

[Wakesurfer]

Thanks to everyone for the replies! It is great to hear the different views and reasoning behind them. I'm not 100% yet, but I am leaning to the plan of using one GFCI at the beginning of the run and tying in the outside (WR) receptacles to the inside circuits as they progress around the garage. Btw, the outside receptacles are at the 4 corners! There are always compromises with convenience, budget and ease of installation, but this plan seems best for my circumstances - I'll post how it turns out!

 

[Speedy Petey]

Name brand often means you pay for the same item, but pay more for the name.

Not even close.

I've seen the $5 cheapies and they are cheap chinese knockoffs. The ones I have seen in my hand were not anything like any name brand I have seen. They were close to Leviton, but just close (not that I am a fan of LEviton either). They **** going in, but I guess once they are in the average person doesn't know any better.
Glad they are working for you. I'll stick with name brand devices.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Not even close.

I've seen the $5 cheapies and they are cheap chinese knockoffs. The ones I have seen in my hand were not anything like any name brand I have seen. They were close to Leviton, but just close (not that I am a fan of LEviton either). They **** going in, but I guess once they are in the average person doesn't know any better.
Glad they are working for you. I'll stick with name brand devices.

And I too will do the same. Nothing more frustrating than getting a call back to replace faulty components. And the time spent to replace a bad product cant be billed to the customer!!