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Damaged Conductors

Al G

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Arizona
I was installing receptacles today and found the drywall installer got a little sloppy with the rotozip when cutting around the boxes. In one box 2 insulated conductors were cut almost all the way through and 2 of them have some insulation stripped off. All the damage is just about where the conductors exit the box at the wall. Cutting them and wire nutting pigtails will be tight. All the work will have to be inside the box. Are there other options.

Photo isn't the best but shows the damage.

20150522_211317_resized_1.jpg
 
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Eriehunter

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Shrink tube.
Pig tail them
Or pull the drywall down and re run the wires and have that same idiot back and do his job right this time.
 

Eriehunter

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FYI pig tailing them would be a code violation as there is less than 6" of conductor. However its up to you
 

Beemer533

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Heat shrink will work for the damaged insulation, but it won't do anything for the 2 conductors that are nearly cut through...

I would just pigtail those two.
 

AndyCBR

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Baton Rouge, LA
Wire nut them. May not be code but in my mind you're inside the box so it's fair game.

You may be able to pull on the wires a little and gain some slack if you push on the plastic retainer.
 

Norcal

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FYI pig tailing them would be a code violation as there is less than 6" of conductor. However its up to you

Not a lot of choice when idiot hangers are doing their dirty work, while 60 ISIS style lashes on those knuckle draggers backs would bring that **** to a halt, it's ain't gonna happen, & pigtail repairs are what has to be done.
 

kingchevy

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Drywall hangers are the biggest hacks in construction, speed is all they care about. I had about a dozen wires nicked by the jackasses on the first day of hanging my house, the next day I had ripped and installed plywood wire protectors in the remaining boxes,
 
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Al G

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I installed the wiring so I know there's no slack. Going to try to get my fat fingers in there to wire nut pigtails.
 

toplessHO

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agree to making the drywaller come back,remove the drywall and pay for the rewire.
Cap the wires off and turn them on next time. Be sure and tell them you are hotchecking
circuits and they might find a live one.
They will then take their time and do it just like the old days,measure cut with razor knife.
 

toplessHO

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sometimes they will cover a box and forget to cut a hole
find the bump in wall with a straighedge,use an hammer to try and find it.
Be sure and start a couple ft back in each direction
 

tfi racing

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I installed the wiring so I know there's no slack. Going to try to get my fat fingers in there to wire nut pigtails.

There's your first mistake,there sould always be some slack in case this happens,the second is not tucking the wire back into the box enough so the roto-blade won't hit them.Lesson should now be learned,pigtail them and move on.
 

cybrdyke

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shopping


There are many styles...
http://www.hubbell-rtb.com/literature_pdf/Hubbell-RTB_Catalog.pdf
CD
 

Slowgsr

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Southern ontario
Your electrician should have left a service loop in the wall before the staple. You pull up if need be.
Pig tail everything, the wire with damaged insulation. Don't use heat shrink. If the conductor was damaged at all its derated and could fail

The wires should have been tucked back further
 
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Al G

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Arizona
sometimes they will cover a box and forget to cut a hole
find the bump in wall with a straighedge,use an hammer to try and find it.
Be sure and start a couple ft back in each direction

That's not the problem. There are no hidden boxes.
 
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Al G

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Your electrician should have left a service loop in the wall before the staple. You pull up if need be.
Pig tail everything, the wire with damaged insulation. Don't use heat shrink. If the conductor was damaged at all its derated and could fail

The wires should have been tucked back further

I installed the wiring. I stapled as required and left no slack. Yeah, lesson learned.

The wires were tucked back as far as they'd go. They also cut another box that fortunately on a wall that backs up to an unfinished area. The depth of the bit was nearly to the back of the box.
 
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Al G

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agree to making the drywaller come back,remove the drywall and pay for the rewire.
Cap the wires off and turn them on next time. Be sure and tell them you are hotchecking
circuits and they might find a live one.
They will then take their time and do it just like the old days,measure cut with razor knife.

Not really an option since paint and baseboards are already done.
 

wyliesdiesels

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Modesto, CA
I would make the drywallers pay for the damage.

Also, if this is being inspected, then u will have an issue as youre suppose to have 6" of wire from the face of the box...
 
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Al G

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Rough in inspection was done before drywall. None of this will be visible during final.

I'm on a schedule to get final inspection done that doesn't allow time for drywall and paint. Also the two wires that will have to be replaced were among the most difficult due to going around corners in framing. Not really looking forward to pulling them again.

I know what code requires and left the appropriate length the first time. I know any solution short of pulling wires doesn't meet code but I'll accept that. What I was really looking for were suggestions on a splice method other than wire nuts that will be easier to do inside the box.
 

Eriehunter

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I installed the wiring. I stapled as required and left no slack. Yeah, lesson learned.

The wires were tucked back as far as they'd go. They also cut another box that fortunately on a wall that backs up to an unfinished area. The depth of the bit was nearly to the back of the box.

Idiot had the bit set way too long.... Should a took that guy out behind the wood shed. Routers generally make nice cuts if done properly.

Just a side note... The electrical box is not a UL listed router guide. I like to use the reinforced Bakelite boxes, they are easier for the drywall maggot to feel, the PVC boxes they have a tendency to router right through them.
 

Slowgsr

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Idiot had the bit set way too long.... Should a took that guy out behind the wood shed. Routers generally make nice cuts if done properly.

Just a side note... The electrical box is not a UL listed router guide. I like to use the reinforced Bakelite boxes, they are easier for the drywall maggot to feel, the PVC boxes they have a tendency to router right through them.

I agree. Pvc is easier then no vapour barrier piece needed. However the router bits don't like the metal ones so they're more careful.

Sounds like inexperienced drywaller with setting the bit.,

To the op, some 33 wire nuts and you'll be perfectly fine.
 

toplessHO

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Maybe you dont understand the reason for inspections and codes
Its not just for the benefit of the current owner but all future ones.
No one wants to have a substandard product but when you put that
wall plate on you have covered it up.
Other options are to cut a new box in further back and just run a new piece of wire between the new box and box that has damaged wire.

Does the GC know this happened? He can hold back payment to the drywall contractor.
 

Slowgsr

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Some of you are making a big deal over nothing.
I've never in my life had an inspector check for 6" length, besides, marrett a piece on that's 6" and you'll have your code compliance, and unless your putting a GFCI in there you won't be over box fill and all is legal.
 

wyliesdiesels

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A big deal over nothing? Lmao! Have u ever tried to make a splice inside a single gang box? Theres a reason why theres a code for this!
 

Mustang51js

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It's really not that difficult to wire nut that,you don't even have to stick your fingers in the box if you don't want to,use your linesmans to twist the wires and use them to tighten the nut
 
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Al G

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Arizona
The drywaller came today to see the damage. He agreed to pull the drywall but wasn't happy. I told him I wasn't happy either. Also told him he won't like my hourly rate for pulling new wires. Fortunately he's also the painter so repainting is on him.
 

Zeke

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Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
Why don't people check the boxes for damage before mud, texture and paint are on?

This is an in line wire connector:

picture121382.jpg


Would that be legal in the sense of extending each wire to 6 inches or more? To me the reasoning behind having 6 inches of wire is so you can make up most devices with no issues AFA access to the lugs, etc. Some lights need 6" and then some but you usually have leads on the light. Not always. Porcelain sockets come to mind so I like plenty of wire. If there are only 2 current carrying conductors in a light box and you need some more wire, will the above connection do the job?

I know once we get down to splitting hairs here the code police will say there HAS to be 6" of unspliced wire before any connections are allowed. In old work that isn't always possible w/o re-pulling the feeds.
 

Mustang51js

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I would've just used wirenuts and be done with it,I'm assuming he just had him redo everything to teach the drywaller a lesson
 
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