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Damaged Snap On Box

Craftsman86

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Jan 19, 2012
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323
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Savage MN
I am heading to pick up this box tomorrow morning and was curious if anyone has ever fixed a damaged Snap On box like this before? I was thinking to cut out the bottom and weld in a new 1/4 inch plate and new castors. That sounds incredibly easy, I hope the repair goes that smoothly.

The drawer in the image is out so the bottom could be emptied. the bottom can be pulled out 6 inches or so and then it gets hung up.

Has anyone ever had this happen? Is it from being overloaded? It looks like it is in great shape other then the bottom.
 

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L.Cheapo

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Oct 23, 2014
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Judging by the damage to the bottom and that dent in the lower drawer, plus the wall damage behind it, I'd say that box was hit by something and pushed backwards while heavily loaded. Being tall and heavy, rather than slide, the bottom buckled from the force. Maybe a car?
 

leg17

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Aug 11, 2011
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1,374
Location
Kentucky
What about pounding back straight and not cutting away anything?
Then get the separations welded.
Get some 1/4 plate and make some plates large enough to cover each caster.
Use them like 'washers'. Maybe top and bottom.
Or, make just two that run front to back at each side under both casters at that end.
(Those casters look kind of wimpy.)
 
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Craftsman86

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Savage MN
L.Cheapo I did not think of being hit by a car or something, but that is a very plausible theory. I will ask when I pick it up tomorrow.

leg17- I keep looking at the picture and I think your on to something with pounding it out and not cutting. I am going to do everything I can to pound the bottom as true as I can. Either way I see heavy duty casters in its future. The ones on it now look to be toast.
 

G-Ram

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Dec 10, 2012
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NWO
Build a frame to set the box onto/attach casters to. Bang out the bottom until the drawer opens normally and call it a day


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

maxcarp709

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May 10, 2016
Messages
302
Location
Las Vegas Nv
What about pounding back straight and not cutting away anything?
Then get the separations welded.
Get some 1/4 plate and make some plates large enough to cover each caster.
Use them like 'washers'. Maybe top and bottom.
Or, make just two that run front to back at each side under both casters at that end.
(Those casters look kind of wimpy.)

I like your idea of running 2 plates front to back. I have the same box,a KR555 and its as rugged as they come. The casters are not wimpy at all. The damage to that box came from a significant blow,like getting hit by a car.
 

rsanter

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Dec 22, 2007
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Location
visalia ca
With the box,up,side down, try to reverse the damage.
You can hammer in some of the spots that have come up and you can use a puller to try to pull out some of the sunken spots.
Depending on how good you can get it I think from there I might weld in a plate on the bottom so,you,have a late plane to bolt the new casters to

Bob
 

catalytic

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Jul 16, 2011
Messages
636
Location
Boston, Los Angeles, Cleveland
Get lighter plate, 12 gage or so and screw another plate over the old after you hammer it out.

^^ THIS!

Hammer out the dents. Then sandwich a new LARGER-THAN-CASTER-MOUNT plate between the casters and the dent you just fixed. Force from the casters will then be applied not to the previously dented area, but the to the edge of the new plate.

I would not cut anything out and would not weld onto it. There's nothing wrong with what's there now, and if I saw a weld job on a box I would think it had been bubba'ed -- would annoy my OCD to no end.
 
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Craftsman86

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Savage MN
When I picked up the box I was told the story. The po has a hotrod that was sitting in the garage, when he started it something went wrong and it shot forward hitting the box. The force put the bottom about 8 inches into the wall behind it. The casters caught the 2x4 footer for the wall and bent the whole bottom and some of the back as a result. The lid on the top box is a little out of square and will need to be bent back into shape. I still think I made out pretty well for $100!

I will post more of what I find when I start working on it.
 

L.Cheapo

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When I picked up the box I was told the story. The po has a hotrod that was sitting in the garage, when he started it something went wrong and it shot forward hitting the box. The force put the bottom about 8 inches into the wall behind it. The casters caught the 2x4 footer for the wall and bent the whole bottom and some of the back as a result. The lid on the top box is a little out of square and will need to be bent back into shape. I still think I made out pretty well for $100!

I will post more of what I find when I start working on it.

My suspicions were correct!

And if you bought that entire stack of Snap On boxes for $100, I'll be the first to say "You ****!" :beer:
 
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Craftsman86

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Savage MN
My suspicions were correct!

And if you bought that entire stack of Snap On boxes for $100, I'll be the first to say "You ****!" :beer:

You were correct. In the picture of the whole stack, you can see the big hole in the sheetrock and the dent in the bottom drawer where it was hit. Gotta love Craigslist!
 

jacked_72

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Jul 22, 2012
Messages
1,237
I had some damage to a side of a similar box. It was double walled so it was really difficult to make work. Hopefully the bottom isn't double walled on the bottom. I'd say your in for a cut and reweld job.
 

rjvjeepster

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Aug 18, 2016
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115
You do ****

LOL! congrats. I'd just pound it as straight as you need for it to work right and then put it on a new dolly/frame.
 
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Craftsman86

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Location
Savage MN
I ended up drilling a hole in the bottom and using a couple steel plates to pull it back as much as possible. I have the bottom mostly flat, and ordered an 1/8 inch thick plate to span the entire bottom for $20. I will need all 4 casters and paint on the plate for the bottom but I'm going to call that a day. I hope to be in it roughly $150 and have it work like it did in '72!

Edit: The po had cork installed in all the drawers for drawer liners and I found 2 screwdrivers in the bottom. Bonus!
 

timbitca

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Moncton, NB, Canada
I ended up drilling a hole in the bottom and using a couple steel plates to pull it back as much as possible. I have the bottom mostly flat, and ordered an 1/8 inch thick plate to span the entire bottom for $20. I will need all 4 casters and paint on the plate for the bottom but I'm going to call that a day. I hope to be in it roughly $150 and have it work like it did in '72!

Edit: The po had cork installed in all the drawers for drawer liners and I found 2 screwdrivers in the bottom. Bonus!

Always fun to find something in the bottom of the box once the drawers are out.

As a side note, I've been trying to source some cork locally to line my Beach stack drawers and the damn stuff is unobtainium. :mad:
 
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Craftsman86

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Jan 19, 2012
Messages
323
Location
Savage MN
I repaired a snap on KRL722 that was hit by a vehicle. Let me dig up the pictures.

Edit:
Here's the post, thought I had some better pictures but here ya go.
Snap-on Toolbox hit by car Repair

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?ur...share_tid=304793&share_fid=20318&share_type=t

Wow you did some good work with a porta power. That is one tool I have not yet worked with. I pounded out the bottom drawer as much as possible but have not touched the dents. I plan to let whomever buys it do the body work and paint if they decide. I estimate I will have 3 hours of work into this one when it is said and done. I am a big fan of restorations that involve little to no painting!
 
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