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Damn concrete is expensive :(

Gnfantic

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Mar 24, 2017
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253
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Long Island, NY
Hello everyone, new guy here. I am planning (well hoping) to build a 25x35 garage in my backyard this spring. My friend and I will frame it but neither one of us have enough experience in concrete to feel comfortable enough to do the footing and floor. I have received two estimates so far and shocked on how high they are. Please let me know if this makes any sense to you...

25x35
3ft footing
6in thick slab
4000 psi
rebar throughout and mesh
Property is flat and easily accessible, also no hauling of dirt. no tree's in the way either.

One guy says $12,500. Another guy says $18,000
 
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dr_clyde

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Holland, MI
That seems excessive for what you are building. In my area, seems like concrete is running around $100 a yard.

What are you doing with the need for such a large footing and thick slab?
 

readhead

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Durango, Co.
That seems excessive for what you are building. What is the frost line? Are you talking footing, stemwall and slab? Monopour? Why 6" thick? Why 4K?
 

GMCGarage

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Jan 31, 2017
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Hello everyone, new guy here. I am planning (well hoping) to build a 25x35 garage in my backyard this spring. My friend and I will frame it but neither one of us have enough experience in concrete to feel comfortable enough to do the footing and floor. I have received two estimates so far and shocked on how high they are. Please let me know if this makes any sense to you...

25x35
3ft footing
6in thick slab
4000 psi
rebar throughout and mesh
Property is flat and easily accessible, also no hauling of dirt. no tree's in the way either.

One guy says $12,500. Another guy says $18,000

Unless your driving semi's on that slab, goto 4".
No rebar needed or mesh in slab, control cracking with joints.
How wide is your footing? Is that formed? Sometimes a trench footing can be cheaper, will the soil stand up to excavation 3' deep?
 
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Gnfantic

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Long Island, NY
hi guys, thanks for the quick replies.

1-) My dirt it totally suitable for the subgrade.
2-) I am in NY (Long Island), code states 3 ft footing due to frost
3-) I THOUGHT 6in min and 4000 psi if I wanted to use a lift???
4-) I thought all footings had to be formed not just trenched???
 

DalyArcher

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British Columbia
a lot of unknowns. What sort of finish are they doing? Is it just a place and screed or are they power trowling it out to a polish for you?

What does your local building authority require for footing size and reinforcement.

I poured mine with 8 guys from my church. Couldn't get the truck close enough to the site and the pumper truck was $1000.00. I did a floating slab, 18" x 18" thickened four runs of rebar in the footing and a 18" x 18" grid of rebar in the slab.

Forms were built with pressure treated 2x8 wrapped in plastic so I could salvage them for a deck project, lower 10" was formed with 1" rigid foam insulation. I think I placed 10 yards of gravel, compacted in 2" lifts.

Forms and rebar cost me around $800.00, another $700.00 for the two loads of gravel (still have 4 or 5 yards left over)

17 yards of concrete costs me around $3000.00, and a couple hundred for beer and food for the crew. My shop is 20 x 24.

Depending on the finish you want, actually placing concrete isn't that bad with the right number of guys. One guy placing and three working a screed is ideal. If you want a polished finish though, may be best to hire it out.
 
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Gnfantic

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Long Island, NY
a lot of unknowns. What sort of finish are they doing? Is it just a place and screed or are they power trowling it out to a polish for you?

----Screed only

What does your local building authority require for footing size and reinforcement.

----I am actually waiting for a call from them to confirm. both estimates did work in the area and they know what the town expected.

I poured mine with 8 guys from my church. Couldn't get the truck close enough to the site and the pumper truck was $1000.00. I did a floating slab, 18" x 18" thickened four runs of rebar in the footing and a 18" x 18" grid of rebar in the slab.

Forms were built with pressure treated 2x8 wrapped in plastic so I could salvage them for a deck project, lower 10" was formed with 1" rigid foam insulation. I think I placed 10 yards of gravel, compacted in 2" lifts.

Forms and rebar cost me around $800.00, another $700.00 for the two loads of gravel (still have 4 or 5 yards left over)

17 yards of concrete costs me around $3000.00, and a couple hundred for beer and food for the crew. My shop is 20 x 24.

Depending on the finish you want, actually placing concrete isn't that bad with the right number of guys. One guy placing and three working a screed is ideal. If you want a polished finish though, may be best to hire it out.

---I have done alot of framing and carpentry in the past, also small concrete jobs but never something this large before and do not have the nuts to try it.
 

DalyArcher

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British Columbia
your price quote is also likely based on at least two, likely 3 separate pours - 1) footing, 2) wall, 3) slab. This will be reflected in labour costs.
 

Kaizen

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New England
Actually 12 is cheap for all three. No second floor see if they let you do thickened edge. I actually got twelve asa quote with just thickened edge. Got a local guy for much less. I did do 6 inch at four k with just mesh in middle. About eight k.....he did dirt work too so not sure of exact. The concrete itself was 5500 for the product.


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DougWil

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NW Montana
Call in an excavator.
Form and pour the footing yourself, ditto the stem.
Fill and compact the slab base, tie all the rebar and then call in a concrete crew to place and finish the slab.
Good weather they should be done in 4-6 hours.
 

brownbagg

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$3000 just concrete, why are your footer so big, all you need is 18 inches

not counting price of rebar, but it could be done for $5000 and make money
 

jack stand

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Lakes Region Maine
Off topic, but 25x35..... I bet you would only spend a tiny little bit more for 26x36
All of your building materials will come in even "foot" lengths.
That is unless your up against the building code(s). Enjoy your new project!
 

rburke65

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Canfield, Ohio
There is a difference between a footer and a stem wall. I can't believe you need a "3' footing"! Maybe a 3' stem wall, but not a footer. A footer will be..?..12"x24"....or 6"x18" ....something like that. Stem wall sits atop the footer, then your floor. A two pist lift requirements are a little bit heavier than a four post. Decide on a lift before you place your floor and then you will know what that lift manufacturer REQUIRES for a floor for that lift ....dah. All these things should be figured out before you set up the laser level. If it you have areal good chance of not being happy.
 
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Gnfantic

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Long Island, NY
guys, I appreciate all the feedback and questions. I am going to the town next week and get all the details. I will update you guys on what is needed. Jackstand, thanks for the 26x36 dimensions, I will ask them about that. I will stop by there office next Wednesday and let you know.

thanks!!!
 

adam0872

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North Dakota
I got a quote here local for a 30x50 for 12k with a floating 5inch slab you should def get more quotes that seems excessive
 

Leaflessshadetree

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Don't ask.
Get a few more bids. It doesn't sound too far off to me, but that depends on what all is included. Prep, finish, control joints, sealing. Also site accessibility can factor in.

6" thick with rebar and mesh is probably overkill. 4", 4000 PSI with wire mesh

Also I found some contractors like to charge labor by how many yards of concrete even though finishing is the same regardless of thickness.
 
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fifth

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Mar 20, 2012
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Glendale, Az
2 months ago:

-40 tons of AB fill - $800
-4 hours of grading work and foots dug -$350
-2x10x16's x 12 foundation framing - $195
-(200) 1/2 x 20' rebar - $475
-30 yards of 4000 psi and labor - $3,700
-pump truck 4 hours $600

32x41 slab, did as much as I could myself.. Built forms, compacted slap base, layed rebar..
 

Milton Shaw

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Call the concrete suppliers and get recommendations from them. They know who does good work and who is there when the truck gets there. The prices are usually better than anybody that has ads in telephone book. Do check and make sure they have insurance in case somebody gets hurt.
 

RPH

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Michigan Thumb
Last summer, 30'x72' plus 20'x30' outside pad = 10k. 5" thick, 4500 psi. They did all the work and gave a great finish.
 

lakeroadster

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If the 12K includes all excavation, compaction, forming, fill, compaction, steel reinforcing with dobies, concrete, concrete finishing, and finish grading after the fact it sounds reasonable.

You could do a relatively larger building for about the same price.
 

Jlbc212

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Northeast MA
Do a 20" wide footing three feet below grade. Use 2x12's to form it up. Key the center of the concrete shortly after it's poured. Form up an 8" thick wall, 4 feet high - stepped down 18" at any door openings. You don't need any rebar in the walls if the grade site is flat. This wall height should get your stick framing 12" above the surrounding grade. This will prevent decay, rot of the wood and infestation of vermin. After the walls are poured and forms are removed, backfill around the walls. Compact any disturbed subsoil in the garage. A 4" floor is adequate for many two post lifts, but you could set concrete footings below the floor where the lift posts will go. If you have good compacted subsoil no mesh or rebar is necessary in the floor. I have none in mine and I don't have a single crack. I do have control joints. My garage is 28 x 36 with very little waste of building material. Builders should think in terms of minimum 2 foot or 4 foot increments in dimensions. Someone suggested contacting concrete suppliers and ask for recommendations of contractors. That is a good idea. Best people to ask are the truck drivers. They get to see it all. My concrete contractor was highly recommended by the drivers. He started his work day well before sun-up. He got the first deliveries for the day - no "hot" concrete. The drivers loved this guy. A well-built garage begins with a solid foundation - there is no substitute!
 
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yeldogt

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Understand everyone -- this is LI. Draw a big oval circle around NYC -- hitting Philadelphia and mid CT -- most of NJ .... it's expensive ..... and nothing gets done without permits, inspections and drawings.

We have to have footers down 3' + ... I have been rejected to do mono pours. So it's footer/ block or formed wall/ slab. three trips. 12k sounds on the low side IMO. I paid 19k just for walls on my 19x23 addition in PA recently.

$600 bucks for 4 hours and an expensive truck -- impossible in our area.
 

klassenl

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Southern Alberta
I had a 24x34 slab done by a contractor last year. Same thickness with an 18 inch thickened edge. That's just about what I payed from just grass in the yard to a backfilled slab.
 

Jazzman442

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Tampa Bay area, FL
When I built my house I went to a larger contractor and asked if I could get his pricing on concrete. He let me use it, granted I needed a few hundred yards but I paid less than half of the going rate.

Lowes will give you contractor or below pricing on any project over $2500. Go to the contractors desk and ask them for a bid on all materials. I just did a house remodel and saved at least 25% on all materials including appliances and carpet.
 

wssix99

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Chicago, IL
If the 12K includes all excavation, compaction, forming, fill, compaction, steel reinforcing with dobies, concrete, concrete finishing, and finish grading after the fact it sounds reasonable.

You could do a relatively larger building for about the same price.

This is right-on. The problem here isn't the cost of the materials (obviously, from the other posts) - it's the labor and equipment. ... and the VERY expensive equipment operators!

With multiple pours, you have to pay for heavy equipment to be trucked out to the site several times, along with their high-dollar operators, etc. Even though your excavation may take 4 hours for the "small" garage, you will still need to cover the full day of work for those employees, the full day of rental/usage for the equipment, and the time/gas to truck all that stuff around from wherever its coming from.

^ All of this eclipses the cost of materials and/or the cost of labor do do form work, laying rebar, etc. If you have a contractor who decides to come in with gratuitous use of pumping trucks, etc. - that will really blow the budget. (Why should they have to be efficient when you are paying for it? BTW - they know there is little competition and you don't have a lot of choice.)

If you can sit down with your contractors and discuss their means and methods, you should be able to get the costs down. (I was able to get some of my house's concrete work cut in half by making schedule changes so we could more efficiently plan the concrete contractor's work, etc.) Whatever you can do to provide land access to chute concrete from the truck (instead of pumping), limit use of equipment, or trips for equipment and operators will have big impacts. If you have a neighbor who needs a garage done and you work together, (so the contractor can take care of both of you while they have equipment on the block) you could work out a huge discount.
 

n20junkie

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Grand Island, NY
My 5ft foundation walls were 10k, 6" slab with a burnished finish was another 10k. That didn't include the 2.5k in stone, drainage, and site work which was another 5k.

My 30x50 was 28k before I ever put a single wall up.
 

JCQuick

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Apopka Fla.
my building is 28x36 with 11' walls 16"x16" footers and 4" 3500psi floor all concrete it cost me 12k for all of the concrete including block and labor
 

padroo

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Do you have a detailed breakdown of the work to be done., labor, material etc. If you had it broke down it would show where most of the cost is. My guess is most is because of labor, 50 to 70 %.
 

koviack

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california
hi guys, thanks for the quick replies.

1-) My dirt it totally suitable for the subgrade.
2-) I am in NY (Long Island), code states 3 ft footing due to frost
3-) I THOUGHT 6in min and 4000 psi if I wanted to use a lift???
4-) I thought all footings had to be formed not just trenched???

you don't need the whole pad 6", just where you're going to mount the lift lol
 

foogotz

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I am on LI also. I did a similar job. Used ideal concrete. They did a great job.
 

bdog

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I have a 4" slab in my 50x50 and drive my semi, dump truck, backhoe, etc in there all the time. Had it since 2010 and no cracks. I also have a four post 14k lift. I know you are supposed have thicker for it but I don't. The feet on it have way more surface area than a tire does. Two post I would for sure go thicker.
 
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wssix99

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you don't need the whole pad 6", just where you're going to mount the lift lol

This could make the slab crack.
nono.gif
 
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mopar4wd

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East of the river CT
Here in CT last I called concrete was 120-150 a yd. That ads a lot. Labor is more expensive up here as well all that adds up. I was going to do a similar post every time I think about building a garage the cost of concrete scares me away.
 

onewheat

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I did my floor 4" thick tapered to 6" in the center third for a 2-post. It isn't a big difference, but I didn't need the whole 30' depth to be 6" deep. It is overkill for the lift I want but gives me some extra buffer and lots of space in which to place my lift fore and aft.
 
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