To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Danmar m6 2 Post Lift Mods

sweet victory

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 9, 2016
Messages
1,262
Location
USA
I originally posted this on another Porsche forum, but figured there are probably more Danmar owners here who might be interested.


I've been thoroughly enjoying having a 2 post lift in my home garage these past few months. It's seriously been awesome. If you've been on the fence about the quick jack or this, the Danmar M6 is what you want. (Not the maxjax)

Out of the box it's a good set up, but there is definitely room for improvement. I would say these the biggest area for improvement is the hydraulic system and the lifting pads.

My first project will address the lifting pads. For a truck, SUV, or most other vehicles, I'm sure this lifting pad works just fine. That's not really the case with the 996, as I've needed to add hockey pucks to make the lift arms clear the bottom of the body. I hate adding spacers between the car and the lift pads since you risk having those spacers slide out. As OCD as I am, it turns into a bit of a circus. After getting the hydraulic lines hooked up, the process goes something like this:

  • Position arms under car
  • Crawl around and place hockey pucks
  • Lift arms a few inches
  • Crawl around each corner for placement check
  • Lower arms
  • Crawl around each other to adjust
  • lift arms a few inches
  • Crawl around each corner for placement check
  • Lift car to desired height

I want to eliminate most of this. I would like to use the existing holes in the Porsche lifting points as a locator for a new lifting pad. This pad could slide upwards and downwards in the lift arm, that way the arm could be swung under the vehicle, and the lifting pad could slide up and locate into the lifting point to ensure a perfect, first time placement. I want it to be tall enough that it will be close to the bottom of the vehicle for ease of locating the pad to the lift point, but short enough that it will still clear the bottom of the side skirts on a lowered Porsche. I played around with the idea of making one height adjustable via threaded rod, but decided against it. So, a few minutes on Solidworks and McMaster and this is what I ended up with. The end that slides into the lift arm is ~ 2.1" long, and should be long enough so that I can slide the lifting pad upwards to ensure its lined up with the hole.






After I got the initial design figured out, I made a second model that was optimized for 3D printing. I hallowed out the part and shortened the base to save materials and printer time.




Here is what the first print looks like. It's difficult to tell, but I've decided to use a sealing washer as a consumable buffer between the lifting pad and the Porsche lift point. This is a nylon reinforced piece of rubber vulcanized to a steel washer. If you think this is too weak, let me put things in perspective. This washer is design for a 1" fastener. 30ftlbs of torque on a 1.00" fastener is going to produce a ~2200lb axial load. I'm not too worried about the washer, and it can be easily replaced for very little.






Here is what the original lift pad looks like:





Here is what the prototype lift pad look like:





And here, you can see we will need a revision X2 for this part. :oops:





I've shortened the part by roughly 5/8". I think that should do the trick.

 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
S

sweet victory

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 9, 2016
Messages
1,262
Location
USA
Here is the shortened version next to the originals.





I'll try to better illustrate my goal here. I want to be able to line up the pad perfectly, every single time, to create a repeatable processes that requires minimal effort. As an R&D engineer, I don't just design products, I design processes.


You can visually locate the lift pad under the lift point using the peg and slot.





You confirm the lift pad is directly under the lift point by sliding the lift pad upwards.





I think I will tweak the design one more time. As you can see, it rubs the bottom of the lift point. I will shave off ~.20" or so. Also, I'm thinking that I will taper the peg instead having it straight with a chamfer. I think it will locate itself a bit easier in case there is a little movement when the arms are lifted.
 
OP
S

sweet victory

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 9, 2016
Messages
1,262
Location
USA
Got back home from a work trip to DC yesterday. Finally have time to work on this project again. Here are the first completed machined pieces.

The initial trial was very good. I got the vehicle in the air in a fraction of the time. Pins located the lifting puck on the first try on every corner. No adjustment was needed. You'll see the pins have a taper on them rather than the small chamfer you saw on the printed prototype. This helps them locate themselves into the hole on the bottom of the lift point better. Also, I've got the tolerance on the shaft that slides into the lift arm perfect. When you let go of it, the air just barely slips through the puck and lift arm, so the puck slowly drops. I will have to use it for a while to see if I want to make any changes.




With the protective washer.




Here it is located under the lift point.




Slide up to confirm location.




You can see there is clearance between the top of the lift arm and the bottom of the vehicle.

 

OhioRandy

Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2018
Messages
18
Good idea/project. I would just have the diameter that fits up into the frame (that is the id of the rubber washer ) a tad taller.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

lakeroadster

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 19, 2015
Messages
5,166
Location
Central Colorado
.... the process goes something like this:

  • Position arms under car
  • Crawl around and place hockey pucks
  • Lift arms a few inches
  • Crawl around each corner for placement check
  • Lower arms
  • Crawl around each other to adjust
  • lift arms a few inches
  • Crawl around each corner for placement check
  • Lift car to desired height

I want to eliminate most of this.

I've got a 2 post lift... and I fail to understand how the adapters you made eliminate the above operations. :headscrat
 
OP
S

sweet victory

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 9, 2016
Messages
1,262
Location
USA
I've got a 2 post lift... and I fail to understand how the adapters you made eliminate the above operations. :headscrat

For starters, I didn’t say I would eliminate those operations. I was hoping to eliminate most of them, or rather the second half. If you actually read the post, you would’ve read how needing to use spacers on such a low vehicle was a PITA. Since the lift points are higher than the side skirts and smaller than the hockey puck, it’s very difficult to tell if the hockey puck is centered under the lift point. The only way to verify a good set up is by lifting the car. I got tired of spending so much time lifting and lowering the car to get the hockey pucks lined up just right.

With these pegged lift pucks, it allows me to verify that it’s concentric with the lift point and self centers itself into the lift point. I’ve gotten the car in the air in a fraction of the time, and haven’t had to lower the car for readjustment since.

Hope that makes sense.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom