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Dannmar M-6 (Maxjax) Bolt Alternative

curiousB

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Dec 15, 2011
Messages
143
Location
NW Chicago, IL
Had issue with mechanical anchors setting at different depths in the concrete. Some pulled 1/4" above the surface while other set 1/4-3/8" below. That coupled with the amount of shimming I needed for my unlevel floor lead to a few situations where the bolt didn't have too many threads of bite in the anchor.

So now I use a longer bolt with a nut. I hand thread the bolt all the way to the bottom of the anchor for fullest thread engagement, then tighten nut to secure the base plate. I have the option of putting a wrench on the bolt as well to stop the fastener from spinning (much like the anchor setting procedure).

The anchors that went above the floor were ground down back to flush. I lost a few threads but by sending bolt to bottom of anchor that is not a big loss. Bigger risk is moving the compression cone closer to the top surface but the anchors are 3.8" long so cutting off 1/4" doesn't change that too much.
 

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lemmy999

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Jun 25, 2019
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TN
I plan on buying the longer bolts too. So why do you think some of your anchors pulled to 1/4" above the floor? Do you think your holes were a little too big or maybe they weren't set as deep when hammering them in?

I made the realization this weekend (like you did a few months back) that Dannmar is no longer sending Wej-It PD58 anchors with their lifts. I called them today to ask about this and who makes them and they claimed they make them. Like you, I was about to purchase longer 5/8-11 bolts and nuts and 5/8-11 set screws.

I have drilled 4 holes so far but only placed one of the anchors. I started with it 5/8" below the surface and at 90 ft-lb it was exactly 1/4" below the surface. It took almost 5 turns of the nut. I was thinking of only setting the remaining anchors about 1/2" below the surface.
 

gandyj

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Joined
Jan 4, 2010
Messages
56
Location
Tallahassee, Fl.
I plan on buying the longer bolts too. So why do you think some of your anchors pulled to 1/4" above the floor? Do you think your holes were a little too big or maybe they weren't set as deep when hammering them in?

I made the realization this weekend (like you did a few months back) that Dannmar is no longer sending Wej-It PD58 anchors with their lifts. I called them today to ask about this and who makes them and they claimed they make them. Like you, I was about to purchase longer 5/8-11 bolts and nuts and 5/8-11 set screws.

I have drilled 4 holes so far but only placed one of the anchors. I started with it 5/8" below the surface and at 90 ft-lb it was exactly 1/4" below the surface. It took almost 5 turns of the nut. I was thinking of only setting the remaining anchors about 1/2" below the surface.
I have the m6 that I have not installed yet. I think I'm also going with longer bolts. How much longer a bolt should go with?

Thanks
 

lemmy999

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Joined
Jun 25, 2019
Messages
86
Location
TN
I have the m6 that I have not installed yet. I think I'm also going with longer bolts. How much longer a bolt should go with?

Thanks


I think there is about 1.5 inches of threads in the anchor. Then add:

Distance from anchor to surface: 0.25" (for me)
Base Plate of lift: 5/8"
Shims needed: 1/4" or less
Washers: < 0.5"
Nut: 0.5"

That is about 3-5/8" so I am thinking about 4" or since they will be metric, about 100mm and maybe could get away with 95mm or even 90mm. Hopefully curiousB will chime in to say what worked for him.
 
Last edited:

lemmy999

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Jun 25, 2019
Messages
86
Location
TN
I finished drilling 5 holes for one column last night. I rolled it in place and measure from the bottom of the anchor to the top of the nut and got about 3.5". This did not include any shims. So I think the 4"/100mm bolt would be about as short as you could go.
 

lemmy999

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Jun 25, 2019
Messages
86
Location
TN
The 100mm bolts work well, but they are a little tall in the position where the hydraulic hose hooks up. For that 90mm works the best. 80mm will work too but just before the bolt is all the way in the nut is making contact with the lock washer, but it should still work. So I think 90mm is the ideal length.
 
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lemmy999

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Joined
Jun 25, 2019
Messages
86
Location
TN
I have the m6 that I have not installed yet. I think I'm also going with longer bolts. How much longer a bolt should go with?

Thanks

When did you buy your M6? Does it have rough matte paint or shiny paint? If yours has the matte paint, be careful the first time you lift a vehicle. The matte paint seems to have been a cause of causing the carriage to bind and resulted in my truck getting stuck on the lift. I just wanted to give you a heads up.
 

gandyj

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Joined
Jan 4, 2010
Messages
56
Location
Tallahassee, Fl.
When did you buy your M6? Does it have rough matte paint or shiny paint? If yours has the matte paint, be careful the first time you lift a vehicle. The matte paint seems to have been a cause of causing the carriage to bind and resulted in my truck getting stuck on the lift. I just wanted to give you a heads up.

I bought my lift a year and a half ago and it has the shiny finish. I've been using my four post lift and just decided it's about time to get this thing installed. I started drilling holes yesterday and ran into the wire reinforcement in the concrete. Going to seek some advice on what to do tomorrow.
 

lemmy999

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Joined
Jun 25, 2019
Messages
86
Location
TN
I bought my lift a year and a half ago and it has the shiny finish. I've been using my four post lift and just decided it's about time to get this thing installed. I started drilling holes yesterday and ran into the wire reinforcement in the concrete. Going to seek some advice on what to do tomorrow.

Can you just get one of those rebar cutting bits to cut through the wire? I hit the wire in 3 of my holes but it was over 5" deep so it wasn't a problem. But it almost broke my wrist when the bit caught on it.
 

gandyj

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Joined
Jan 4, 2010
Messages
56
Location
Tallahassee, Fl.
Can you just get one of those rebar cutting bits to cut through the wire? I hit the wire in 3 of my holes but it was over 5" deep so it wasn't a problem. But it almost broke my wrist when the bit caught on it.

Installing my lift has been an adventure. I did end up buying the rebar cutting bit to the tune of $70 and I renting a rotary hammer because mine just wouldn't do the job. Once I had what I needed to get the job done mounting the first post was no problem. When installing the second post I found the thickness of the concrete to be inconsistent. I installed three anchors with no problems, the fourth went in fine but it spins. I installed the last anchor at the recommended depth and found the concrete to be less than 4 inches so when I attempted to tighten the nut the base of the anchor spreaded beneath the floor.
 

lemmy999

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Jun 25, 2019
Messages
86
Location
TN
I hate to hear that. When the concrete isn't thick enough I guess your only option is to cut out the concrete. I got 2 quotes to dig out 4'x14'section of my concrete, dispose of it, dig down to 12" deep, add rebar to the bottom and also rebar in to the existing slab all around the perimeter and then pour with 5,000 psi concrete. One guy said about $1200-$1400 and $200 more if they couldn't back the concrete truck in the driveway (and I wouldn't want that). The other guy, which said he had done this sort of thing for lift installs several times, was around $4,000!!. The cutting out and removing the old concrete he was going to subcontract out,so I guess that was part of the reason he was so expensive. A guy in another thread said he had this exact job done in Colorado and it was only $900. Even though mine seems to be doing fine so far with the expansion anchors, I have considered doing the job anyway and using epoxy anchors just for peace of mind while I am under the car.

Good luck with your install.
 
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