awdavis01
Member
I am trying to recreate this vintage Dawn grinding and polishing head decal. Can anyone offer up a picture on this logo in better condition?
Last edited:
Dawn Tools Decal
- Thread starter awdavis01
- Start date
I think I got it solved, but if anyone has an actual picture of this I would surely appreciate it if your would post it.
In a 1944 Australasian Manufacturers Annual I found on motofaction.org there was the one and only example of what this decal looked like. I've included the original ad, a blowup of what I used as a model, and the decal I brought together for you. It's the best interpretation I can give you, and I think it's pretty darn close.
Here is how you print it properly and apply it to your tool. First, buy this waterslide paper for a laser toner (not ink-jet) printer. If you don't have a laser printer available to you, your local library will have one. Do not try to use laser waterslide in a ink-jet printer, or vice-versa. It will look like ****.
Using MS Word, insert the image below into a document and size accordingly. If it's small enough, put as many as will fit on an 8.5x11 sheet of paper.
Do not print 10 copies of this on the first try. Print one, check it for quality, and if it ***** then find another laser printer. The waterslide paper isn't horribly expensive, but it's still $1 a sheet so don't go wild on the first try.
Next, go to your hardware store and buy a rattle can of crystal clear lacquer spray. Spray a light coat on a printed sheet of the decals and let it dry. Repeat twice more for three coats. This is 'fixing' the ink so that the water soak doesn't let the ink run.
Cut out one decal with an Xacto knife. Don't use scissors or anything other than as close to a surgical scapel as you can buy. Soak the paper in lukewarm water for one minute. Try to >gently< push the decal off (don't try to peal or pull it off). If it doesn't move easily, soak for another 30 seconds. What your trying to avoid is stretching the decal and cracking the ink.
Take your time, the lacquer will protect the ink.
In a 1944 Australasian Manufacturers Annual I found on motofaction.org there was the one and only example of what this decal looked like. I've included the original ad, a blowup of what I used as a model, and the decal I brought together for you. It's the best interpretation I can give you, and I think it's pretty darn close.
Here is how you print it properly and apply it to your tool. First, buy this waterslide paper for a laser toner (not ink-jet) printer. If you don't have a laser printer available to you, your local library will have one. Do not try to use laser waterslide in a ink-jet printer, or vice-versa. It will look like ****.
Using MS Word, insert the image below into a document and size accordingly. If it's small enough, put as many as will fit on an 8.5x11 sheet of paper.
Do not print 10 copies of this on the first try. Print one, check it for quality, and if it ***** then find another laser printer. The waterslide paper isn't horribly expensive, but it's still $1 a sheet so don't go wild on the first try.
Next, go to your hardware store and buy a rattle can of crystal clear lacquer spray. Spray a light coat on a printed sheet of the decals and let it dry. Repeat twice more for three coats. This is 'fixing' the ink so that the water soak doesn't let the ink run.
Cut out one decal with an Xacto knife. Don't use scissors or anything other than as close to a surgical scapel as you can buy. Soak the paper in lukewarm water for one minute. Try to >gently< push the decal off (don't try to peal or pull it off). If it doesn't move easily, soak for another 30 seconds. What your trying to avoid is stretching the decal and cracking the ink.
Take your time, the lacquer will protect the ink.
