Dayton 3ug73d wiring help

[eichhoma]

Hi everyone,
1st time posting and could really use some help.

I just bought a Dayton 3UG73D heater. I hooked it up to its own dedicated 30 amp circuit and wired in a dayton line voltage thermostat. Did it much like shown in this post here (below) but without the seperate shut off because my line voltage thermostat has a positive off already.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=409234&postcount=14

my problem is, the themostat portion is not working. When I turn the heater off, it will go into cool down and then shut off, but when I set the temp low enough while it is running that it should kick off, it doesn't. I tested the thermostat and it works... I am kind of stumped here, what should I be looking at? Any help or input here would be much appreciated. thanks in advance. Mark

 

[eichhoma]

anybody???

 

[phiftyseven]

The 3UG73 heater has a built-in thermostat on the front of the heater. Did you remove or bypass that ? If not, then you have a thermostat trying to control another thermostat, trying to control the heater, and it won't work correctly.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

Did you read through the posts using "Dayton + thermostat" as "timgr" has suggested?
I'm no electrician by any means, I know a little about it , but maybe if you show how you have it wired, someone can help you.
Also, is this a single pole or double pole T-stat?
Is it a line voltage T-stat?
Or Is it wired with a coil?
If you have it wired like "Stargeezer" seems it should be a pretty easy hook up.
here is a Quote from Stargeezer's post.

I spoke with Granger Tech service twice. The recommendation was to disconnect the internal SPST thermostat and wire in a remote Dayton 4PU49 thermostat-also a SPST model. Then use a HD commercial/industrial grade DP 30 AMP switch to break the 220 completely. My electrician feels better about breaking both hot legs too.

http://www.drillspot.com/products/153115/dayton_4pu49_line_voltage_thermostat

I'll mount side by side handy boxes for the Thermostat and ON/OFF switch. Going to use #10 wire to the thermostat terminals in the G73 and use #8 THHN for the power run to the switch and back. Sounds like a lot of trouble, but I feel this will be a safe way to go.

Seems to me a pretty fool proof way to wire it.
note also,that this method will allow the cool down mode to still function, but you need to allow the heater to kick off on it's own, and the fan to run till it kicks off, before shutting off your main (30 Amp DPST switch) shut off.
thanks, Tony
PS. I know, I know, giving out advise, and don't even have mine hooked up yet.........

 

[mrbreezeet1]

The 3UG73 heater has a built-in thermostat on the front of the heater. Did you remove or bypass that ? If not, then you have a thermostat trying to control another thermostat, trying to control the heater, and it won't work correctly.

Yeah, that's what I never "Got" in the posts that say to just turn up the built in T-stat. Of course, I could be missing something.
Tony

 

[mrbreezeet1]

******

Here's the wiring out of the link posted above.

I plan to do the same setup as Stargeezer for the most part. I'm curious why the use of #8 THHN instead of #10? Is this due to the length of your run? In the pics it doesn't look too far.

Due to where my box is, I'm planning to go #10 from the panel to the GE switch to the G73 heater then a separate run down to/back from the Dayton thermostat (centrally located in the room since the heater will be by the man door), removing the internal thermostat on L1. This sound correct?

Garage is only approx. 20' x 20'

******

 

[royalton10]

I have same heater. Did a thermostat (same one as detailed in the drillspot location detailed above) I have thermostat and 30 amp 220v light switch side by side. It works fine.

I can get clicks on both sides to turn heater off and on. I did not do anything special to the heater to accomodate for separate thermostat.

It puts out tons of heat. Falcon67 give me lots of great help!

Have a great day!!

 

[mrbreezeet1]

I have same heater. Did a thermostat (same one as detailed in the drillspot location detailed above) I have thermostat and 30 amp 220v light switch side by side. It works fine.

I can get clicks on both sides to turn heater off and on. I did not do anything special to the heater to accommodate for separate thermostat.

It puts out tons of heat. Falcon67 give me lots of great help!

Have a great day!!

So IOW the OE t-stat is still wired in to the dayton, or is the wall t-stat wired in, in place of the OE T-stat?
Thanks, Tony

 

[eichhoma]

Its a line voltage thermostat that I put in and it is a 2 pole, (4pu49) but I am only using one side. The thermostat built into the heater has been completely disconnected so i dont think I have an issue of one trying to control the other... Dayton makes a line voltage thermostat that is a single pole but it does not have the positive off I was looking for.

I appreciate the input, is there any more info I can provide that I am not providing already? thanks in advance.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

So are the L1 and L 2 from the breaker running straight into the heater terminal's L1 and L 2 with 1 side (pole) of the T-Stat wired in in place of the OE T-Stat?
I wonder if there is any chance you need to use the other pole of the T-Stat?

 

[royalton10]

I know I bought a Dayton thermostat from drillspot. It may be the single pole with the line voltage, not sure. I had electrican friend help with the wiring. I know it works. We had big time trouble getting all of the 10 guage wires in the box so I think I will leave it alone and not look at what I did if you don't mind. Sorry.

 

[eichhoma]

Not a problem, I will wait till my neighbor gets home later whom helped me wire this in and verify how we did it to answer mrbreeze's question and go from there. Just was hoping there was something obvious I was missing. I know enough electrical to make me dangerous but this "should" work...

 

[royalton10]

I logged into drillspot and looked up my order from October 2009.

I got a line voltage thermostat, model 4PU49; SKU 153115.

Maybe that will help.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

OK, Same one Stargeezer used, and the one I linked to.
http://www.drillspot.com/products/153115/dayton_4pu49_line_voltage_thermostat
It's a SPST then.
Curious to see how eichhoma's is wired up.
Tony

 

[eichhoma]

Ok, so we switched the connections on the thermostat to the other side.... its a double throw and it worked great. So I assume one side of thermostat controls the on off and the other controls the thermostatic controls and the on off. Problem solved! Thanks for all the help and input!

 

[mrbreezeet1]

So are the L1 and L 2 from the breaker running straight into the heater terminal's L1 and L 2 with 1 side (pole) of the T-Stat wired in in place of the OE T-Stat?
I wonder if there is any chance you need to use the other pole of the T-Stat?

Good call Tony ......................LOL

Of course the other leg is still hot all the time.
Thanks, Tony


PS should have mine done tonight or tomorrow.

Don't know where you all are, but it's beautiful here today.
Guessing a good 50 degrees, and sunny. (Actually 58 degrees and sunny)
Going to take the 1200 out for a while today.