Does anybody have one of these. I am looking for some opinons on this heater for my garage. I would like to know how well in works in your garage, what size garage you are using it in. And if you noticed the cost factor. I would only be using it as needed, it would not be on all the time. Thanks in advance. eagle521
Dayton G73 Electric Heater
- Thread starter eagle521
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icnsltmfg
Well-known member
I just got mine last week from Air and Water for $269 delivered! This thing went up very easily and works fantastic. It is quite and does a great job on my 400+ sqft. I mounted it from the ceiling on 1 lag bolt so I could turn it just right, and used armoured flex line for the power. Moved a few of the output veins down onto my work area and the rest horizontally. Within 10 min the garage is nice and toasty. I am so glad I had the 220v line put in and bought this on a 10% off sale day. While it does have a thermostat, I wish it had a pilot light so I could tell when it is energized as I turn the breakers on only when needed and do not want to leave it on when not there.
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Very nice garage. I have 1200 sq. ft but plan to partition one bay off(approx 400 sq. ft) with drop cloths. This will be my work area and the area I need to heat. Do you think it would be sufficient assuming heat loss to the rest of the garage?
Grant
Grant
icnsltmfg
Well-known member
I think it may still do well with a curtain. The fact that you can swing the unit and aim the veins help to keep the heat on you. A ceiling fan on low may help to keep the heat lower to the floor.
timgr
Well-known member
I have that heater too - there's a pic in this thread http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=154406#post154406
I suggest you run a switch down to mid-wall and turn it on and off that way (my reading of the code says it's required). That's also discussed in the above thread. I expect you could run a pilot light next to the switch too, if you bring another small-gauge wire for common to the switch box. The ground would also work as a return for the pilot light, but I don't know if that's allowed by code.
I suggest you run a switch down to mid-wall and turn it on and off that way (my reading of the code says it's required). That's also discussed in the above thread. I expect you could run a pilot light next to the switch too, if you bring another small-gauge wire for common to the switch box. The ground would also work as a return for the pilot light, but I don't know if that's allowed by code.
jtong313
Member
How about these http://www.heatersplus.com/thermost.htm
timgr
Well-known member
It's the right idea, but 22A is not enough for those heaters.
I was planning on using the WR-66 double line disconnect thermostat which has an "off" setting, these heaters are 20.9 amps at 240 volts. Why would this thermostat not be enough for these heaters ? I'm not an electrician, am I missing something here ?
timgr
Well-known member
I was planning on using the WR-66 double line disconnect thermostat which has an "off" setting, these heaters are 20.9 amps at 240 volts. Why would this thermostat not be enough for these heaters ? I'm not an electrician, am I missing something here ?
Nope, you're right - I was thinking they are 30A, but that's the capacity of my circuit. The spec sheet say 20.9A at 240V.
jtong313
Member
Please let us know how they work out...thanks