wiring of this heater? would i needto just wire it to 220 plug? on a 30 amp breaker? or wire it straight to the breaker? if its straight to the breaker can i turn it on and off, i dont want it to run all the time! also what is the cost of operating this unit? i will be heating a 24x24 garage 8 ft walls.
dayton g73 heater help
- Thread starter zfrank07
- Start date
Charles (in GA)
Well-known member
Either put a plug on it, or put a disconnect on the wall. It has a built in thermostat, so you can regulate the temp and get it to shut off by turning the temp down. You should not use a double pole circuit breaker as a switch, they are not approved for that and you will wear them out. Generally only single pole 15 and 20 amp breakers are approved as switches, and then only for lighting.
Charles
Charles
Falcon67
Well-known member
T-stat powers off unit after cool down, breaker acts as a disconnect. Plug is for convenience as I may want to extend the run and move it to another corner for some reason.
Cost of operation out of the box: Your Cost Per Killowatt-Hour * 5 = your cost per hour of run time with the element on (no temp cycling).
Last edited:
Falcon67
Well-known member
Find the kW hours on your bill. It's on there because they read the meter. Divide the amount you owed by the kW hour figure. Done.
This does mix in the fuel charge and other misc BS charges, but its good 'nuff.
This does mix in the fuel charge and other misc BS charges, but its good 'nuff.
beartoothweb
Well-known member
I wired mine directly, 10/2 wire back to a 30AMP breaker in the box. My panel is right next to the door, so it's easy to turn it on and off as needed.
My panel is a Square D. The breakers should last a long time with a relatively low duty cycle like this, only flipping them once a day at most for 6 months out of the year. I considered doing a 220V switch, but it's a little more of a pain, and my electrician friend said that it's not a big deal to do it this way.
As far as cost, it's so freakin' efficient, it seems cheap to run. I don't have real numbers, but considering what it costs to run my AC on a 100 degree day (not too much), I'm not worried. I run my dayton on low, and actually have to turn it off after a little while, it gets too hot when I'm working out in the shop. 1200sq feet, 10' and 12' ceilings.
My panel is a Square D. The breakers should last a long time with a relatively low duty cycle like this, only flipping them once a day at most for 6 months out of the year. I considered doing a 220V switch, but it's a little more of a pain, and my electrician friend said that it's not a big deal to do it this way.
As far as cost, it's so freakin' efficient, it seems cheap to run. I don't have real numbers, but considering what it costs to run my AC on a 100 degree day (not too much), I'm not worried. I run my dayton on low, and actually have to turn it off after a little while, it gets too hot when I'm working out in the shop. 1200sq feet, 10' and 12' ceilings.