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DC Motor part
- Thread starter Zick
- Start date
RPH
Well-known member
Insulated bushing with stud from what I see. What’s wrong with this one? Grainier, or any of the other supply houses. Lathe and a dowel and make one. Threaded rod for the conductor.
SGKent
Banned
unless the motor manufacturer is still in business or you can find a core to take it from, I doubt you will find that. It is an isolator to shield the stud from the housing. My guess is that it was made just for that motor series. As stated by RPH, you can have one made on a lathe. Looks like nylon from the photo but someone familiar with non-conductive plastics etc could tell you what it is and what might substitute. Alternatively you could pay $10,000 and have a mold made to cast one from.
If the threads are stripped, which it looks like they are, you can run a die over them and see it that will restore them enough to use. If not maybe try spinning that down a bit on a lathe and see if you can re-thread that one end for the next nut size down. Metric is usually fractionally smaller than standard so maybe a metric tap and nut might work.
Example: A 1/4" thread is .250". A 6 mm thread is .237" . That .013" might be enough to put threads back on it that will hold a nut. You can try to unthread the brass stud from the nylon but it may destroy the nylon, or it may slip right off. Be sure to take accurate measurements first.
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If the threads are stripped, which it looks like they are, you can run a die over them and see it that will restore them enough to use. If not maybe try spinning that down a bit on a lathe and see if you can re-thread that one end for the next nut size down. Metric is usually fractionally smaller than standard so maybe a metric tap and nut might work.
Example: A 1/4" thread is .250". A 6 mm thread is .237" . That .013" might be enough to put threads back on it that will hold a nut. You can try to unthread the brass stud from the nylon but it may destroy the nylon, or it may slip right off. Be sure to take accurate measurements first.
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Last edited:
Mr. T
Well-known member
I’d try what SGKent said about retreading the stud.
Another way would be to grind or file the bolts down to half of their current height. And don’t tighten them as much next time!
Another way would be to grind or file the bolts down to half of their current height. And don’t tighten them as much next time!
have you tried to thread the stud out? it might just come.
someone could turn you a pc of delrin to make a new one .
can you leave off the back nut so you get into those threads for the cable connection?
someone could turn you a pc of delrin to make a new one .
can you leave off the back nut so you get into those threads for the cable connection?
SGKent
Banned
Well that's a shame.
This is going to be a backup motor so might just try and make one out of wood. It would be outside so might have to put some sealer on it.
really, you'd trust a wooden one over rethreading the one that is there or trying to remove the stud? If you are going to start carving do it on a block of nylon.
Milton Shaw
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2011
- Messages
- 4,845
Stud is probably just pressed in like a screwdriver handle. Should be easy to remove and remake it. Could even use a plastic screwdriver handle to make it out of, but don't know the temp range of the motor or the handle.
If your only problem is stripped threads another option is to cut off the stripped portion of the stud, thread on a coupling nut, and then either attach the conductor with a screw or use another stud to thread into the coupling nut and go from there.
lg
no neat sig line
lg
no neat sig line
^ that's what I was going to suggest.
I had a starter motor from an old Triumph that had a similar setup/problem, old leather insulator for the stud wore out and was shorting on the frame.
found an old time motor rebuilder who worked on all kinds of oddball stuff, hilo, farm equipment, not a typical automotive rebuilder, the guy the shops sent their old/unique stuff to.
anyway, he made a new insulated standoff for me for a $10 bill. maybe you can find someone like that if you aren't comfortable working with what you have.
I had a starter motor from an old Triumph that had a similar setup/problem, old leather insulator for the stud wore out and was shorting on the frame.
found an old time motor rebuilder who worked on all kinds of oddball stuff, hilo, farm equipment, not a typical automotive rebuilder, the guy the shops sent their old/unique stuff to.
anyway, he made a new insulated standoff for me for a $10 bill. maybe you can find someone like that if you aren't comfortable working with what you have.
Thanks guys, I'll probably try and see if I can pull the stud out of the plastic and thread in a new piece.
The stud is pretty small already so I really don't want to try and re thread it.
Thought about putting on a coupler but there is an end cap that goes on and covers everything up and there isn't enough space there.
The stud is pretty small already so I really don't want to try and re thread it.
Thought about putting on a coupler but there is an end cap that goes on and covers everything up and there isn't enough space there.
SGKent
Banned
If the stud won't come loose heat it the end of the stud a little at a time and let the heat travel. It may eventually loosen up its grip. If the other end of the stud screws into a solid item then the isolator may just be pushed on. If the isolated holds the stud so a spade ring and nuts sit on it inside the motor then it may be screwed or cast into the nylon isolator.
htmdude57
Well-known member
Would it be possible to cut the damaged section off of the threaded rod with a hack saw or dremel tool, and put the 2 nuts back on the remaining threads?
fitter30
Well-known member
Jb weld epoxy then run a die over it.