DC Power Source - Stereo Workbench

[kythri]

I've got a bunch of "old" car stereo equipment that I'd like to wire up and test, so that I can determine what I want to install in my vehicles.

What are my options for a suitable DC power source that could handle this?

I'm looking more towards the less-expensive end of things, rather than a professional-level deal - it's not going to see a ton of use, and, quite frankly, rather than spend hundreds, I'll hook up test leads to a running vehicle and just do it that way if I have to.

One of the issues in attempting to source a power supply is what kind of load I'd be putting on it.

I've looked at the specifications for several pieces of equipment that I've got, and none of them really provide the load information, just the VDC input requirement.

I really don't have a decent idea of how many amps the power supply I'm looking for should have, and how much my gear needs, short of the fact that I know it all works off of a 150A alternator.

Anyone doing something like this that has a recommendation?

I've seen a few different links/videos where people are converting old PC power supplies, but I'm not seeing them power anything more than a cheap deck and a couple of speakers.

Ideally, I'm after something that will handle the deck, a 4-channel amp and a mono amp so I can wire up and test an entire car's worth of stereo equipment (speakers, subs, etc).

 

[warmpancakes]

I have a test bench set up for older car audio, just for testing things I have a 15A for radios for amps etc I have a 100A at 13.2 Volds DC regulated, if you were using it as a power source for listening you will need a good size so you dont over heat it

 

[frugalguido]

When I was in the Stereo repair business we used Astron 35-50amp power supplies.

 

[DEEDDUDE]

I use a computer power supply for low current test; deck, eq, etc. When I test amplifiers I use a good car battery.

I do use the computer power supply to power my iPod that feeds my shop receiver.

I priced the 30-50 amp power supplies and didn’t see a need for that expense for as little testing that I do, but if I were to use the car audio stuff as my shop radio I would buy one. I have on occasion used a battery as mentioned above with a smart battery charger.

 

[btlegacy]

Maybe try a power supply like this?

http://www.parts-express.com/12v-dc-29a-348w-regulated-switching-power-supply--320-315

OR

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103959

 

[franzdom]

How about a battery and a trickle charger?

 

[Bigplum]

Find a old cb radio 12v power supply , should be plenty for a car radio

 

[jeffmoss26]

I like Altronix for alarm/access control/CCTV power supplies. Not sure if they have anything that is powerful enough for your needs though.

 

[pauls_workshop]

One idea is to use a regular auto 12 v battery charger. Then convert the end cables over to the kind of connector you might want to use. Pretty ideal for this purpose and can be had from garage sales or simlar for less than $20 generally. - Paul

 

[kythri]

I've actually tried the battery charger, and a 2A/6A job didn't seem to supply enough juice to run a deck with speakers.

It might work fine if I disable the deck's internal amplifier and run the speakers off a 4-channel (once I get some sort of power source for that, of course).

Thanks to all for the suggestions and recommendations - I need to compile some ideas.

 

[IOWNJUNK]

How about a battery and a trickle charger?

If you are just testing equipment and listening to tunes in the garage this is what I would use. Old motorcycle sized battery on a float charger will be plenty. Maybe bigger if you are running an amp. Might even get away with a solar charger if you have low amperage draw.


Edit: Of course, as I'm writing this you post that you have already tried and it isn't enough. You are obviously pulling more power than I had thought. Bigger/better battery maybe?

 

[kythri]

Well, I haven't actually tried with a battery in the mix - I had tried (some time ago) just the charger itself.

I'll test with a battery - that'll probably work out quite well...

 

[IOWNJUNK]

No storage without a battery, the charger might power it on, maybe run the lights on the head unit for a bit but I don't think much else. Couple of guys run them off a small battery and a charger at the flea market but not sure how much power they are pulling, most likely just to show that their equipment works before you buy. I ran a cheap am/fm and a single speaker off a trolling motor battery for a while, maybe 3 days or so before completely dead.

 

[ttpete]

I have a unit that uses a Variac and a silicon bridge rectifier. It has both volt and ammeters, and can be adjusted for voltage. I adapted it from an old Lectroetch setup. It's good for 50 amps.

 

[signcrafter]

Running two amps at any decent volume is going to need some power. If you just want to power them up and see if they work for a short period and not at full volume then pretty much any power supply will work. If you want to use this setup to listen to in the garage or something then you will need to get some powerful supplies. Cheapest way to do this is a car battery and a charger. I have a couple small to medium power supplies I use for bench testing things. But none that would run a 4 channel and a mono amp at volumes higher then low.

 

[skruft]

I made a power supply from a 75 amp power supply that was intended for an RV.

 

[lashlee]

Like skruft I've used an RV charger with an old battery or two for my test bench for years. I've got an 80 amp model that I used on my car when I competed and I use a 40 or 50 amp model for the test bench without any issues. I've tested an Xtant 1000 watt amp all the way down to a simple H/U before I do an install.

 

[diggerrick]

You can usually find a coupon or use the 20% coupon for one of these:

http://www.harborfreight.com/10250-amp-12v-manual-charger-with-engine-start-60581.html

I use one to power an old car audio amp that I plug my phone into in the garage.

 

[thoraudio]

I had a 45 amp Todd engineering power supply years ago. Worked great for up to about 500 watts.

If you really want to go all out, get a battery, an alternator and an AC motor.

 

[pauls_workshop]

Anyone ever take a computer power supply and use the 12v feeds from it? - Paul

 

[kythri]

I considered it, but it looked like most of them didn't provide enough juice.

Then I see this one:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...39040&ef_id=UPQVKwAAT7PSBRTB:20140729141702:s

Claims 62A at 12V? That seems pretty hefty for a small ATX power supply that's only $90.

 

[James_B]

Most of the time, I just use an old computer power supply, but for high current situations, I have a 12V supply/Charger that I pulled out of an 80s vintage camper ... 4 of 15A/13.8V outlets with circuit breakers plus extra connections for charging the battery.

 

[James_B]

Anyone ever take a computer power supply and use the 12v feeds from it? - Paul

I've used them, but the 12V supply is low current compared to the 5V rail, and has poor voltage regulation. Depending on the computer powersupply used, they are usually good for 12V @ 9-12A.

If you understand the circuitry in switch mode power supplies, then there's another way to go. Back in Australia, I had a setup with a pair of high power AT supplies. The regulator in the 5V circuit is modified for a 6-7 volt output, and one supply is modified so that the 5V circuit is fully floating. Both 5V outputs are connected together in series. That sort of setup us usually good for something in the region of 12V @ 40A. Old 350W+ AT supplies are usually better for this than the newer ATX supplies. Unfortunately, the setup I had used a pair with a fixed 240V input voltage, and would be useless in Canada with 120V, so I gave it away before I moved to Canada.

 

[alpinewhite]

I have a 100A at 13.2 Volds DC regulated

got pics?

 

[pauls_workshop]

James, good info. I would say 40 watts for a stereo setup like this is alot of power!! 1 watt of power is pretty loud in a room with most modern speakers! Can't take it for too long! - Paul

 

[warmpancakes]

got pics?

same exact one

http://www.audioauthority.com/product_details/978-100


when circut city closed I buying all the install stuff from the car audio department, lady offered me 10 of these for 50.00 I thought each, NOPE 50.00 for all 10 and she threw in 10 6 month old red top optimas

and I was incorrect on the specs its 13.8 VDC

 

[Advan]

Here's mine, an old Dell power supply I bought for #2 at a surplus store. I put terminal posts on it, a power switch, and some RCA 12v outputs. It'll do 18 amps @12v, which is enough for farting around with most of the 12v stuff I test....

 

[bushmechanic]

I use a computer power supply for low current test; deck, eq, etc. When I test amplifiers I use a good car battery.

I do use the computer power supply to power my iPod that feeds my shop receiver.

I priced the 30-50 amp power supplies and didn’t see a need for that expense for as little testing that I do, but if I were to use the car audio stuff as my shop radio I would buy one. I have on occasion used a battery as mentioned above with a smart battery charger.

As a builder of custom PCs, I can verify the claims here. Go for single rail gold or platinum certified power supplies, and you'll get some seriously clean juice.

It's not going to run a big amplifier, though some more powerful units will handle quite a few amps. They'll cost you, though.

I tend to use Corsair AX series PSUs, but Seasonic and PC Power and Cooling are top notch, as well.

 

[Danglerb]

I'm thinking some PC power supplies don't like to have load on only some lines, but if it works it works.

If I am in the garage though I will have a 12v battery and charger pretty handy.

 

[bushmechanic]

I'm thinking some PC power supplies don't like to have load on only some lines, but if it works it works.

If I am in the garage though I will have a 12v battery and charger pretty handy.

That's why you need a single rail unit. Some manufacturers try to ******** their way to higher ratings with multiple 12V rails; and claim it's better in general.

A single, well-regulated rail is the way to go, and you can pull pretty much what you want out of it. It's not uncommon to pull 500-700 watts at 12v on that rail in a powerful machine under full load benchmarking.

It's not going to happen in actual use. I burn in everything I build for 48 hours, though, and that's when you see what's what in regard to the power supply.

It ain't ready to ship until I find a weak point and snap it, because I offer a ten year hardware warranty.

Some machines will ask quite a bit more, than the previously mentioned figures, actually. Once you start stacking top-tier graphics cards, the current demands skyrocket.

You'll run a 1500w power supply close to full load if you aren't careful; and benchmark machines occasionally are fitted with more than one...

 

[kythri]

same exact one

http://www.audioauthority.com/product_details/978-100


when circut city closed I buying all the install stuff from the car audio department, lady offered me 10 of these for 50.00 I thought each, NOPE 50.00 for all 10 and she threw in 10 6 month old red top optimas

and I was incorrect on the specs its 13.8 VDC

Got an extra that you want to sell?

 

[Aquamoose]

If you want to test for the temporary sake of determining the best stereo of the lot, stick with your car battery & jumper cables to two carriage bolts to a piece of scrap wood. Find your stereo and be done with it.

 

[bushmechanic]

and she threw in 10 6 month old red top optimas

It was nice of her to give you ten door stops.

 

[gungatim]

I've got a 12v powersupply out of a camper. Runs on 120v, several 12v fused outs. Picked it up at a yard sale for $7. Keep your eyes open for one, they will run about anything.

 

[Waggoner72]

Steve Meade on YouTube has done exactly what you are talking about. He has set up an audio test bench to test amplifiers, speakers, etc. he does an "amp test Tuesday" every week. Check his videos out! Here's the link to one. He does some crazy stuff with car audio and is very knowledgeable.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?list=PLbHKD58RLZvVhK5a64K_vM-hAdDtnjRVH&v=ysjMZk3DHqs

 

[SuzukiGS750EZ]

I wired up an old deck i had at home with a cig plug on the end and plug it into my jumper pack. The pack is constantly on a trickle charge, so it's not dying anytime soon. Then hook up speakers to the speaker inputs on the harness and ta dah. Making an antenna is simple as well. Coaxial scraps should be good.

 

[kgorman]

http://www.bkprecision.com/products/power-supplies/1666-1-40v-5a-switching-dc-power-supply.html

 

[kythri]

http://www.bkprecision.com/products/power-supplies/1666-1-40v-5a-switching-dc-power-supply.html

Looks like the max those put out are ~10A.

I may have found a potential alternative...

I've been reading up on some different folks using PC power supplies, and realized:

I've got access to a couple of Cisco 4200W power supplies that aren't ever going to be used for their manufactured purpose.

These bad boys can run at 110 VAC (2100W with two 110 VAC inputs) or 220 VAC (4200W with two 220 VAC inputs).

If I run one at 2100W / 110 VAC x 2 input, it produces 115.3A @ 12 V.

This might work out quite well...