M-technik-3
Well-known member
And I thought my other house was a money pit! ghad's how I never want to see lathe and plaster again. Great updates since the last time I checked this thread.
Dead cat farm
- Thread starter jb3
- Start date
footings are dug and form built, but we are waiting on permits which are held up for whatever undefined reason. Looking likely there were no permits for prior construction. we will see how this plays out. Ive submitted remodel documents for a structure (garage loft) that doesn't officially exist evidently.
concrete guy will lay plastic, rebar, and mesh when we know the inspector is coming before the pour.
things leveled out and forms-
footings-
how we are going to handle the wood post is to pour around it with a circular form like we did in the other garage, then when walls start going up and can support the loft, pull it out and patch the hole. This concrete will be a crawlspace floor, so its going to be a bit overbuilt for that, minimum 5 inches thick
of course with the form built I cannot close the garage door fully so it couldnt be locked
today we had a cop here tell us of a thief that has broken into 5 houses on the street, so I rigged a come along to keep the door shut, which works a lot better than the original lock actually. on hold until granted remodel permits which is frustrating
concrete guy will lay plastic, rebar, and mesh when we know the inspector is coming before the pour.
things leveled out and forms-
footings-
how we are going to handle the wood post is to pour around it with a circular form like we did in the other garage, then when walls start going up and can support the loft, pull it out and patch the hole. This concrete will be a crawlspace floor, so its going to be a bit overbuilt for that, minimum 5 inches thick
of course with the form built I cannot close the garage door fully so it couldnt be locked
today we had a cop here tell us of a thief that has broken into 5 houses on the street, so I rigged a come along to keep the door shut, which works a lot better than the original lock actually. on hold until granted remodel permits which is frustrating
thanks! definitely psyched to actually do something substantial to the living area of the home
yeah I think that step was worth the cost. Initially I wanted to save money there, but having clear drawings has been useful with especially the fire department. (a man with no sense of humor and 10 different little red stamps for types of detectors) He prepared simpler drawings for what we can afford this round, which are passing through the digestive processes of the building department as we speak.
Ha! It does get old removing it. this split lath has the added pleasure of being extremely sharp and splintery
Ive decided that when I retire im living in a sod house where i can just go cut some extra bit of the lawn and plug holes
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sean Buick 76
Well-known member
I just wanted to say hello and give you a pat on the back! It is almost like a lost art to restore old buildings and you are doing fantastic! Keep us posted!
andyaus
Well-known member
Oh I like this 1, Look forward to your updates 
Will S.
Well-known member
Great place you've got there. I'm enjoying the pics; keep'em coming. re locking the overhead door: either clamp a vice-grip or just a C-clamp to the tracks, or drill a hole through the side of the track just above a roller, and put a big padlock around the track, through the hole.
Also want to mention what could be a 'road to riches' or at least a cool diversion, while you're in the 'waiting for permits' mode: With a property that old, there is a tremendous history, and a lot of people back in that era, hid their valuables in a Mason jar or box, buried in a cellar or in the yard. They also most likely lost coins or a ring.
I have been metal detecting as a pnce in a while hobby, for 35 years or so. Old farmsteads, gristmills, and century old houses can produce some great finds, as well as beach (lake or ocean) hunting. A decent metal detector would be somethhing like a Fisher F2 or an Ace 250. Around $200, it is not a toy, and they really do work, depending on the size of the "target", to 10"-12" on coin or jewelry, and deeper on a buried cache. I would love to hunt that property of yours.
Anyways, just a thought...
Also want to mention what could be a 'road to riches'
or at least a cool diversion, while you're in the 'waiting for permits' mode: With a property that old, there is a tremendous history, and a lot of people back in that era, hid their valuables in a Mason jar or box, buried in a cellar or in the yard. They also most likely lost coins or a ring. I have been metal detecting as a pnce in a while hobby, for 35 years or so. Old farmsteads, gristmills, and century old houses can produce some great finds, as well as beach (lake or ocean) hunting. A decent metal detector would be somethhing like a Fisher F2 or an Ace 250. Around $200, it is not a toy, and they really do work, depending on the size of the "target", to 10"-12" on coin or jewelry, and deeper on a buried cache. I would love to hunt that property of yours.
Anyways, just a thought...
Great place you've got there. I'm enjoying the pics; keep'em coming. re locking the overhead door: either clamp a vice-grip or just a C-clamp to the tracks, or drill a hole through the side of the track just above a roller, and put a big padlock around the track, through the hole.
Also want to mention what could be a 'road to riches'
I have been metal detecting as a pnce in a while hobby, for 35 years or so. Old farmsteads, gristmills, and century old houses can produce some great finds, as well as beach (lake or ocean) hunting. A decent metal detector would be somethhing like a Fisher F2 or an Ace 250. Around $200, it is not a toy, and they really do work, depending on the size of the "target", to 10"-12" on coin or jewelry, and deeper on a buried cache. I would love to hunt that property of yours.
Anyways, just a thought...
ha! I have a friend who did exactly this. came by and found a piece of a stove, a watch, a bunch of old chain, a collar bell for a sheep, and endless old nails. I might have to get one of the detectors
so some progress
permits granted and issue with the structure being permitted sort of went away with no work on my end apart from waiting for things to work through the bureaucratic process, which was lucky.
interior garage footings were inspected and approved, vapor barrier, rebar, and mesh installed, hopefully we can pour early next week
meanwhile because of the delay there were some basement structural repairs made
Its hard to tell in pics, but short story is beetles ate 8-10 floor joists, and and about 50 feet of sill on 3 sides of the house. The PO replaced the sill, and braced the building with a heavy timber basement structure, but it sank approx 2-3 inches on one side from the damage. He fixed it, but did not jack it back up to where it was, now this arrangement is more or less permanent due to other repairs.
This was 30 years ago, so the heavy timber structure supported by 10 heavy legs managed to rot and get digested in places as well by more beetles.
This boils down to 4 rooms supported by a heavy beam, itself supported by this piece of wood-
base-
meanwhile the other 9 legs of the structure rotted-
So the heavy structure designed to brace the floor and whole side of the house, was actually about 70% hanging from the damaged beams instead
you can see the sag here-
also, to further complicate matters, the way this place was built made it almost impossible to removed damaged wood. For example, they lay the floor joists, then built a solid board wooden wall, which they then lathed and plastered. These are nailed to the side of the floor joist, and to remove the joist would impact the wall, ect.
Solution was to replace all the timber structure legs with pressure treated, add a new center post for the beam holding the most weight, and sister a number of floor joists. because of how non-flat the floor is, several 2x8s were snapped when the weight was put on them, so a cross grid pattern was devised, which has every joist supported in 3 or 4 places with shims from beams running perpendicular. Super solid now
now we can finally use 2 rooms of the house we had to avoid because of weak floor joists
similar reinforcement has to happen in parts of the other side of the house where our new staircase will be.
permits granted and issue with the structure being permitted sort of went away with no work on my end apart from waiting for things to work through the bureaucratic process, which was lucky.
interior garage footings were inspected and approved, vapor barrier, rebar, and mesh installed, hopefully we can pour early next week
meanwhile because of the delay there were some basement structural repairs made
Its hard to tell in pics, but short story is beetles ate 8-10 floor joists, and and about 50 feet of sill on 3 sides of the house. The PO replaced the sill, and braced the building with a heavy timber basement structure, but it sank approx 2-3 inches on one side from the damage. He fixed it, but did not jack it back up to where it was, now this arrangement is more or less permanent due to other repairs.
This was 30 years ago, so the heavy timber structure supported by 10 heavy legs managed to rot and get digested in places as well by more beetles.
This boils down to 4 rooms supported by a heavy beam, itself supported by this piece of wood-
base-
meanwhile the other 9 legs of the structure rotted-
So the heavy structure designed to brace the floor and whole side of the house, was actually about 70% hanging from the damaged beams instead
you can see the sag here-
also, to further complicate matters, the way this place was built made it almost impossible to removed damaged wood. For example, they lay the floor joists, then built a solid board wooden wall, which they then lathed and plastered. These are nailed to the side of the floor joist, and to remove the joist would impact the wall, ect.
Solution was to replace all the timber structure legs with pressure treated, add a new center post for the beam holding the most weight, and sister a number of floor joists. because of how non-flat the floor is, several 2x8s were snapped when the weight was put on them, so a cross grid pattern was devised, which has every joist supported in 3 or 4 places with shims from beams running perpendicular. Super solid now
now we can finally use 2 rooms of the house we had to avoid because of weak floor joists
similar reinforcement has to happen in parts of the other side of the house where our new staircase will be.
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fergus
Well-known member
NICE progress! I love it when the structural stuff gets fixed. Makes me feel all warm and fuzzy. And plus the house won't fall down.
NICE progress! I love it when the structural stuff gets fixed. Makes me feel all warm and fuzzy. And plus the house won't fall down.
Thanks! Im very excited about the structural repair, gives me the same happy feeling you describe
My plan is to turn the room directly above it into primary family/living room. I am intent on making all rooms serve some useful modern purpose. The room in its current form is very primitive, there is no light and one dead outlet, but with some work and wiring could be a very nice place to hang out
xtremek
Well-known member
NICE progress! I love it when the structural stuff gets fixed. Makes me feel all warm and fuzzy. And plus the house won't fall down.
You two guys are crazy. Nice work. I'm so glad it's you and not me.
M-technik-3
Well-known member
Nice update, remodel permits....I think many of us have stories of those. Thinking it should have been called Dead Squirrel Farm.
Reason why as nobody asks many questions when a squirrel eats your wiring and starts a house fire. My electrician told me numerous times to get one and toss it in the house and light up the sucker... Lol but the idea of jail and insurance fraud was not pleasant.
Reason why as nobody asks many questions when a squirrel eats your wiring and starts a house fire. My electrician told me numerous times to get one and toss it in the house and light up the sucker... Lol but the idea of jail and insurance fraud was not pleasant.
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incremental update!
concrete poured and curing, ready for starting on the raised floor late this week
pouring process-
end result- We discovered that wooden post is not sitting on concrete, but embedded in concrete, so just poured around it. If I want to move it I have to cut it off anyway
now that I have it I of course am wistful that this nice smooth surface will be an invisible surface once the wood floor goes in. I thought I would have enough room for a crawlspace, but looks like no
new pad is very close to the same height as the goal surface, close enough some shimming will do the job
concrete poured and curing, ready for starting on the raised floor late this week
pouring process-
end result- We discovered that wooden post is not sitting on concrete, but embedded in concrete, so just poured around it. If I want to move it I have to cut it off anyway
now that I have it I of course am wistful that this nice smooth surface will be an invisible surface once the wood floor goes in. I thought I would have enough room for a crawlspace, but looks like no
new pad is very close to the same height as the goal surface, close enough some shimming will do the job
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xtremek
Well-known member
You're right, that is a shame to cover it up. But the wood should look nice too.
some work updates-
loft staircase was removed, really opening up the space-
closer garage door removed and stud wall going up, new exterior door will be on left hand side of former space
door interference by lower of these header beams, so cut out for relocation of exterior door-
notched for door-
**** door moved temporarily- 2 new exterior doors and a garage fire door on order, had no idea it was a 3 week wait for a 6 inch jam, but oh well
inner raised floor going in, 2x12 joists spanning across entire area with concrete and covering former bulkhead entrance- These joists are approx 4 inches above the pad
we now have a large space level with the rest of the house floor! which is nice
Blunders-
when I had concrete done I should have had it poured in this section under where the wall would be, contractor will cut the wall off and pour a 6 inch high section so the wood isnt almost in the dirt. no one caught it including the contractor who built the wall before it realized it wouldnt be code, about a half inch off dirt on the outside
blunder 2. this one is the architect, he apparently forgot that this 10 inch triple beam was here supporting the loft when he worked out our raised floor. Spec is 7 feet under the loft, which is acceptable if a little low, but the beam makes in only 6ish feet. Beam will have to be cut, flush beam installed for the short section left to support the wall, once the floor is braced and finished we can built the support walls for the loft to do this
redoing this beam and the above post support will be a bit of a job, but oh well
loft staircase was removed, really opening up the space-
closer garage door removed and stud wall going up, new exterior door will be on left hand side of former space
door interference by lower of these header beams, so cut out for relocation of exterior door-
notched for door-
**** door moved temporarily- 2 new exterior doors and a garage fire door on order, had no idea it was a 3 week wait for a 6 inch jam, but oh well
inner raised floor going in, 2x12 joists spanning across entire area with concrete and covering former bulkhead entrance- These joists are approx 4 inches above the pad
we now have a large space level with the rest of the house floor! which is nice
Blunders-
when I had concrete done I should have had it poured in this section under where the wall would be, contractor will cut the wall off and pour a 6 inch high section so the wood isnt almost in the dirt. no one caught it including the contractor who built the wall before it realized it wouldnt be code, about a half inch off dirt on the outside
blunder 2. this one is the architect, he apparently forgot that this 10 inch triple beam was here supporting the loft when he worked out our raised floor. Spec is 7 feet under the loft, which is acceptable if a little low, but the beam makes in only 6ish feet. Beam will have to be cut, flush beam installed for the short section left to support the wall, once the floor is braced and finished we can built the support walls for the loft to do this
redoing this beam and the above post support will be a bit of a job, but oh well
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jbmatth
Well-known member
If I have this right the triple beam is supporting the loft, and the loft has 2 different levels? That will be fun, but it looks like you are cracking along and will have it knocked out pretty quick.
JB
JB
the loft is one level, but it has a cutout where the staircase went up originally
I am thinking it will take the contractor 2 to 3 days to modify the beam and make it flush with the loft floor joists using hangars. First he has to finish the lower floor and brace it so he can build temporary stud walls to support everything on either side, since the joists are two pieces laying on top of the beam from either exterior wall.
Im not sure how he plans to handle the continuation of the post sitting on top of the beam and supporting the roof, probably he will move the beam over and next to this post since a new studwall will be right under the post itself eventually.
I had to move my loft mountain of **** down to the end to get the weight off the floor for these shenanigans
definitely the most expensive setback so far, BUT, we havent yet opened up an original house wall, so I expect more, and more interesting problems when that happens!
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Fascinating stuff going on in here!
How has the "fur hat on a naked man" been working out this winter? Sometimes the payback on an insulation investment can be just one year.
Its been so much warmer this year im not entirely sure how effective the insulation is, though im glad to be saving some money in general. i did finally pay back last years oil investment fortunately, only took 1.5 years of payments!
Im really looking forward to breaking out some more ceilings and really getting that close to R60 value though
jbmatth
Well-known member
That is just insane to think how much you were having to pay to heat that place last year. With the bottom falling out of the oil and fuels markets have you seen a drop in fuel oil costs as well? (Per gallon or however it is sold.)
JB
JB
blunders resolved!
loft beam modified and original post removed, cut off right above the pad. We don't know if its sitting in dirt or what below, so it had to go. New post will be installed as part of the stud wall going in the same area
here the loft is braced up for the beam modification-
here is the new added ceiling height-
this is how he connected to the existing beam after cutting it off-
blunder 2 resolved, concrete step poured and should be cured by tomorrow to redo the sill plate-
loft beam modified and original post removed, cut off right above the pad. We don't know if its sitting in dirt or what below, so it had to go. New post will be installed as part of the stud wall going in the same area
here the loft is braced up for the beam modification-
here is the new added ceiling height-
this is how he connected to the existing beam after cutting it off-
blunder 2 resolved, concrete step poured and should be cured by tomorrow to redo the sill plate-
madoc1
Well-known member
fascinating work. I sure will be following. good luck.
jim
jim
Thanks!
Update-
Just spent about 4 hours redesigning our first floor bath with the contractor. Due to the non regular dimension of the stone garage foundation wall, the architect made a dimensional assumption that resulted in almost a 10 inch discrepency which ends up being a massive problem.
All worked out now though, we are pushing a wall out a foot, moving the tub, toilet, and vanity around. The changes turn out to all be positive fortunately, just took a long time to find the space
In other news im pleased to announce my clothes dryer will be joining the old wood/coal furnace in the basement as a permanent resident. Its 2 inches too wide to make it up the interior staircase. It may also be joined by the washing machine which is within a quarter of an inch of the door width.
I will have provided space for first floor laundry machines now trapped in the basement for eternity, so new machines might be in santas stocking next year
ok some more progress.
2x6 wall between living space and garage is up-
divider wall between new bathroom and what will become closet space is up. The door to the right of this pic with the frame busted out will be moved up to the loft landing, and that area studded and sealed. In front of this wall will be a large closet with washer and dryer, and a coat closet
plumbing partially finished for the new bathroom, the piping in the bulkhead worked out, and is pretty accessible, if not as amazingly accessible as I had hoped, this is decent
all pops out right above the existing bulkhead door (now basement closet). Eventually this scramble of cast iron will be removed and we are going PVC all the way out to the end of the basement
next the loft had to be modified one more time. Because of the dimensional mistake the bathroom wall was pushed out 10 inched on one side, just that far further under the loft. this meant that one floor joist for the loft would be popping out in the bathroom ceiling. That joist is removed and a new joist slid back the correct depth to create a uniform ceiling. There will still be a jog out over the tub, but no choice there
next the dimensional mistake. In this pic you can see concrete poured over stone foundation wall. The architect apparently measured from the concrete and did not compensate for the stone popping out. This corner is going to have a door from inside the house into the bathroom. Because of this the door has to be pushed towards the inner window to clear the stone wall. Its going to be very very tight as there is an inner wall on the other side
This picture shows the inside room where the door will be added in the corner on the right next to the window-
door comes out the the left of this inner window in this pic-
this is a square room with its own fireplace, will end up as a large hallish area, maybe a sitting room or something. it will end up with 4 exit doors, a window, a closet door, and a fireplace, so wall space is limited. Maybe ill put a table right in the middle with a plant on it. The fireplace is unusable as the furnace was added to come up through the center of it.
2x6 wall between living space and garage is up-
divider wall between new bathroom and what will become closet space is up. The door to the right of this pic with the frame busted out will be moved up to the loft landing, and that area studded and sealed. In front of this wall will be a large closet with washer and dryer, and a coat closet
plumbing partially finished for the new bathroom, the piping in the bulkhead worked out, and is pretty accessible, if not as amazingly accessible as I had hoped, this is decent
all pops out right above the existing bulkhead door (now basement closet). Eventually this scramble of cast iron will be removed and we are going PVC all the way out to the end of the basement
next the loft had to be modified one more time. Because of the dimensional mistake the bathroom wall was pushed out 10 inched on one side, just that far further under the loft. this meant that one floor joist for the loft would be popping out in the bathroom ceiling. That joist is removed and a new joist slid back the correct depth to create a uniform ceiling. There will still be a jog out over the tub, but no choice there
next the dimensional mistake. In this pic you can see concrete poured over stone foundation wall. The architect apparently measured from the concrete and did not compensate for the stone popping out. This corner is going to have a door from inside the house into the bathroom. Because of this the door has to be pushed towards the inner window to clear the stone wall. Its going to be very very tight as there is an inner wall on the other side
This picture shows the inside room where the door will be added in the corner on the right next to the window-
door comes out the the left of this inner window in this pic-
this is a square room with its own fireplace, will end up as a large hallish area, maybe a sitting room or something. it will end up with 4 exit doors, a window, a closet door, and a fireplace, so wall space is limited. Maybe ill put a table right in the middle with a plant on it. The fireplace is unusable as the furnace was added to come up through the center of it.
I did some demo work on the above room, first I was unpleasantly surprised to discover 4 different ceilings. Original wood lath and plaster, sheetrock over that, strapping and more sheetrock, and finally a half inch of plaster. I am still absolutely amazed at the level of work it must have been to nail that original split lath up. They didn't just rip off pieces and nail them, the split it like an accordion and nailed it up all connected. Each section of lath ended up being a spread out 2 foot wide board.
From the construction type it looks like the latest ceiling is 60s era
unimaginable violence later the floor joists are exposed-
you can see here the heavy beams designed to support the upstairs fireplace right above this one in the pic. They are about 6x6 hand hewn
This particular beam will be doing the lions share of work on the 2nd bathroom supporting the tub that will be above this room. The timber is beefy, but everything is mortise and tennon so the actual strength is somewhat less than the apparent strength of how big the beam is. Its actually only a 2.5 peg notched into the exterior beam. The plan is to do strapping around all the beams in this room for the upstairs bathroom.
ultimately this room will have a 4 to 6 inch drop ceiling to bring plumbing below the beams and to the wall. No way we are cutting through these easily and it wouldn't be wise when we have plenty of room to go underneath.
also knocked out the wall for the new doorway, evidence of 70s work here around the window by the insulation date. plumber will be moving the baseboard eventually
From the construction type it looks like the latest ceiling is 60s era
unimaginable violence later the floor joists are exposed-
you can see here the heavy beams designed to support the upstairs fireplace right above this one in the pic. They are about 6x6 hand hewn
This particular beam will be doing the lions share of work on the 2nd bathroom supporting the tub that will be above this room. The timber is beefy, but everything is mortise and tennon so the actual strength is somewhat less than the apparent strength of how big the beam is. Its actually only a 2.5 peg notched into the exterior beam. The plan is to do strapping around all the beams in this room for the upstairs bathroom.
ultimately this room will have a 4 to 6 inch drop ceiling to bring plumbing below the beams and to the wall. No way we are cutting through these easily and it wouldn't be wise when we have plenty of room to go underneath.
also knocked out the wall for the new doorway, evidence of 70s work here around the window by the insulation date. plumber will be moving the baseboard eventually
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LB-1911
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Looking Great, Hang In There!
Stevie-Ray
Well-known member
Re: Repurposing several farm buildings
Edit: Whoops-didn't realize this was an on-going paleo-thread. Nice progress though!
I wouldn't count on that. My BIL's Volare 6 cylinder wagon suffered a broken torsion bar. We were just standing about twenty feet away, and BOOOM-sounded like somebody tossed a cherry bomb underneath. Looked at his car and it looked like a low-rider.
Edit: Whoops-didn't realize this was an on-going paleo-thread. Nice progress though!
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theoldwizard1
Well-known member
Why do people do such STUPID things !
I would have a local welder make up something that would look like a typical "joist hanger" out of 0.120 - 0.200 steel. I would also use a "structural screw" into a pre-drilled pilot hole. When installing your hanger force a 2x6 between the floor and the underside of the hanger. Bang it in tight to take some of the load off of that beam/peg. Then drill and fasten the screws.This particular beam will be doing the lions share of work on the 2nd bathroom supporting the tub that will be above this room. The timber is beefy, but everything is mortise and tennon so the actual strength is somewhat less than the apparent strength of how big the beam is. Its actually only a 2.5 peg notched into the exterior beam. The plan is to do strapping around all the beams in this room for the upstairs bathroom.
I cant complain too much about the multiple ceilings as ive done the same thing. Certainly is cost effective and cleaner on the install, so i can see why it was done. Probably several generations of owners assuming they were covering up the original ceiling! The stuff from the 60s was like cement board though, tough to break out, and i filled the whole house with dust despite my taping up tarps. Even the floor above dust travelled up through the floor board seams
Im still considering sistering floor joists under the bathroom as well as strapping the existing joists. Depends on where the plumbing can fit above ultimately. I have some steel here i can bend and drill into straps if i cant find something that will work
Re: Repurposing several farm buildings
Yikes!
Several years ago i had a coil spring snap in my DD which was parked outside in front of my house while i was asleep way in the back with all the windows closed (winter). The noise was like a gunshot and loud enough i was fully awakened. I figured someone fired a weapon in the neighborhood.
Scary to think about what that might be like driving!
I wouldn't count on that. My BIL's Volare 6 cylinder wagon suffered a broken torsion bar. We were just standing about twenty feet away, and BOOOM-sounded like somebody tossed a cherry bomb underneath. Looked at his car and it looked like a low-rider.
Edit: Whoops-didn't realize this was an on-going paleo-thread. Nice progress though!
Yikes!
Several years ago i had a coil spring snap in my DD which was parked outside in front of my house while i was asleep way in the back with all the windows closed (winter). The noise was like a gunshot and loud enough i was fully awakened. I figured someone fired a weapon in the neighborhood.
Scary to think about what that might be like driving!
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
If it is going to be under a tub or a mortar bed shower, ABSOLUTELY !
That might make to "feel better", but you need something a lot more "structural" than anything you can bend by hand.
Also, partially removing the load (jacking) while securing it with anything else is a big help.
this weeks partial update!
mudroom and bathroom now have ceilings! you can see in this pic where the staircase down into the house will be. Imagine a door between these two ceilings about 4 steps down
that will be possible once the reverse dormer is removed. There is considerable rot in on this along the roof line, due to some ill advised trim that was wicking up water. fortunately cosmetic rot and part of whats being ripped out anyway
Next it was time for me to eliminate the 2nd floor kitchenette and bath that wasnt really usable anyway due to some plumbing issues and me having capped the supply lines a few months ago. This will become the top of the staircase, and the window will be gone. sort of an awful little pair of rooms
It does have a nice pair of sinks, I will be saving this 20s-30s farm sink for something-
So far in this renovation its been really nice to come along after some real quality work over the years. Not so in this bath remodel. When I pulled out the sink and if it was installed new, it happened in 1938 from the casting.
outer wall lathe, ceiling, and crappy partition walls and fixtures removed-
floor rotten under the toilet? not a problem! just put down some wire mesh and concrete right over the rotten wood!
still some concrete but the extent of the floor damage. I learned that the toilet was entirely supported by the cast iron flange and stack in the corner. Good thing it was so close, as it should have broken off years ago. floor was powder around it
to add insult to injury they went ahead and chopped every floor joist in the room for the sink drain. this is right under the shower. I wondered why the floor was so bouncy, now its clear. structure of the floor was depending on some rusty 3 inch nails through scrap wood attached to the side of the joists
some pics of the interior wall construction, giant boards and or just band sawed trees nailed up to the joists and lathed, bark included. pretty neat the way they did this. boards are 22 inches wide.
next I have to fully finish removing the floor, then bust out the first floor ceiling and demo most of the first floor bath to make out 2 story rectangle for the staircase. Things will get awkward as we obviously live here and need a bathroom. figuring that out has been a challenge. I think the second floor bath needs to be built to a functional level before first floor gets fully demolished
mudroom and bathroom now have ceilings! you can see in this pic where the staircase down into the house will be. Imagine a door between these two ceilings about 4 steps down
that will be possible once the reverse dormer is removed. There is considerable rot in on this along the roof line, due to some ill advised trim that was wicking up water. fortunately cosmetic rot and part of whats being ripped out anyway
Next it was time for me to eliminate the 2nd floor kitchenette and bath that wasnt really usable anyway due to some plumbing issues and me having capped the supply lines a few months ago. This will become the top of the staircase, and the window will be gone. sort of an awful little pair of rooms
It does have a nice pair of sinks, I will be saving this 20s-30s farm sink for something-
So far in this renovation its been really nice to come along after some real quality work over the years. Not so in this bath remodel. When I pulled out the sink and if it was installed new, it happened in 1938 from the casting.
outer wall lathe, ceiling, and crappy partition walls and fixtures removed-
floor rotten under the toilet? not a problem! just put down some wire mesh and concrete right over the rotten wood!
still some concrete but the extent of the floor damage. I learned that the toilet was entirely supported by the cast iron flange and stack in the corner. Good thing it was so close, as it should have broken off years ago. floor was powder around it
to add insult to injury they went ahead and chopped every floor joist in the room for the sink drain. this is right under the shower. I wondered why the floor was so bouncy, now its clear. structure of the floor was depending on some rusty 3 inch nails through scrap wood attached to the side of the joists
some pics of the interior wall construction, giant boards and or just band sawed trees nailed up to the joists and lathed, bark included. pretty neat the way they did this. boards are 22 inches wide.
next I have to fully finish removing the floor, then bust out the first floor ceiling and demo most of the first floor bath to make out 2 story rectangle for the staircase. Things will get awkward as we obviously live here and need a bathroom. figuring that out has been a challenge. I think the second floor bath needs to be built to a functional level before first floor gets fully demolished
simpler=better
Well-known member
Oh man! I forgot about the house of bees. Looks good
M-technik-3
Well-known member
Ultimate money pit. My GC would have tossed a squirrel in it by now. Seeing so many of the same things I went through with my place in comparison to yours.
My budget ended up not holding out which was sad as I still need a dormer and to redo the stair well to the second floor. We rented it out and as the budget allows we do work in stages. Miss the old place but hated the town and street noise, love the peace of the new place.
Meant to say looking at your updates remind me of PBS Thursdays with This Olde House.
My budget ended up not holding out which was sad as I still need a dormer and to redo the stair well to the second floor. We rented it out and as the budget allows we do work in stages. Miss the old place but hated the town and street noise, love the peace of the new place.
Meant to say looking at your updates remind me of PBS Thursdays with This Olde House.
Oh man! I forgot about the house of bees. Looks good
Bees are 3 plagues ago!
Got rid of the 70k bees and 300+ lbs of honey comb in the soffit, only to be beset by a fresh plague of lady bugs.
The current plague is stink bugs. There does seem to be a qualitive drop off in the types of bugs. First it was bugs that are annoying but produced some of the most delicious honey with sort of a floral flavor. Next it was bugs that are sort of cute, but now its full on nasty little beetles.
Probably end up with dung beetles eventually
I waited over a year for a guy who loves this stuff to be available thankfully. So many contractors have this notion that if they find something even slightly unusual its an intolerable problem forever.
This guy wont give you a quote apart from a very basic ball park and you pay him hourly by the week, because who knows what he will find and how long it will take type of thing. Already saved us a ton of money catching some issues before he built anything.