I need to remove some pretty ugly burrs on stainless pipe (care of a Dewalt dry abrasive saw) of 1 5/8 diameter. Hand filing is extremely slow going. Sanding drums are ineffectual. I have not tried a carbide burr yet. Does anyone have a good quick way to clean up the pipe?
Deburring stainless exhaust pipe
- Thread starter spv
- Start date
steel 35
Well-known member
look at 3m deburring wheels, little **** hole towns don't have them; don't ask how I know 
Canadian Cowboy
Well-known member
They make swivel deburring tools
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T828/?tag=atomicindus08-20
http://www.google.ca/search?q=debur...ls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-
CC
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T828/?tag=atomicindus08-20
http://www.google.ca/search?q=debur...ls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-
CC
PDM
Well-known member
I do a lot of stainless intake and turbo exhausts (20 gauge) and the deburring tools will not be strong enough for most of the inner burs you get from stainless. Plus if you are not using gloves and the blade snaps, you can really cut open your hand from the sharp, stainless burrs.
I'm surprised that your drycut saw is leaving burrs - I suspect you have the incorrect or worn out cutting wheel used for stainless. (borrowed a friend's drycut saw with the proper blade and it left very little for burrs.)
I normally use a horizontal band saw as cold cut saws even used are pretty expensive, then use my cheap 1 hp round sanding disc sander with a decent sanding disc for metal work (not the standard brown sandpaper, but the blue or green ones meant for ferrous metals) - then finish the stainless with a 3M hand sanding pad (the 6" round style) with 240-300 grit stick on paper in smooth circular motions. You change the paper often (maybe every 3-4th piece as it's not really meant for metal), but it leaves the best finish perfect for cut and tig weld finishes.
Cold cut saws are by far the best for cutting metal tube, but get pricey for tubing over 2.5" in diameter.
I'm surprised that your drycut saw is leaving burrs - I suspect you have the incorrect or worn out cutting wheel used for stainless. (borrowed a friend's drycut saw with the proper blade and it left very little for burrs.)
I normally use a horizontal band saw as cold cut saws even used are pretty expensive, then use my cheap 1 hp round sanding disc sander with a decent sanding disc for metal work (not the standard brown sandpaper, but the blue or green ones meant for ferrous metals) - then finish the stainless with a 3M hand sanding pad (the 6" round style) with 240-300 grit stick on paper in smooth circular motions. You change the paper often (maybe every 3-4th piece as it's not really meant for metal), but it leaves the best finish perfect for cut and tig weld finishes.
Cold cut saws are by far the best for cutting metal tube, but get pricey for tubing over 2.5" in diameter.
I will change the chop saw blade. It really messed up the cuts. I will also give the carbide burr a try. The 3m wheels look great, although pricey. I frequently use the 3m small wheels on the die grinder. They do a great job polishing steel and aluminum.
Stainless rips through/blunts metal files and those deburr tools are unlikely to be strong enough. I have a Noga deburr tool and would not trust it on stainless.
It took me 45 minutes to clean up 2 ends of pipe with a quality hand file made for steel, although not stainless. Works great on mild still, terribly on stainless.
Stainless rips through/blunts metal files and those deburr tools are unlikely to be strong enough. I have a Noga deburr tool and would not trust it on stainless.
It took me 45 minutes to clean up 2 ends of pipe with a quality hand file made for steel, although not stainless. Works great on mild still, terribly on stainless.
EvilWelder
Well-known member
Flap wheel in an end grinder.
http://www.pferdusa.com/products/204l/204l01/204l0102.html
http://www.pferdusa.com/products/204l/204l01/204l0102.html
Griff93
Well-known member
I've found one of those cone grinding wheels on a die grinder seems to work best for this kind of thing.
steel 35
Well-known member
This is the way, it also cleans the material rather then leaving impurity's in it.
dkGoodrich dot com
Active member
- Joined
- Sep 24, 2010
- Messages
- 36
I do a lot of stainless, tube and pipe. The little swivel deburring hand tools are no match for burrs left by a chop saw. I just use a carbide bit on a die grinder to get the insides. I use the side of the chop saw blade for the outside burrs and to true up the cut edge. As crude as this is, I've churned out some pretty clean tig beads this way. When doing aluminum with a chop saw, before I weld I hand file all the edges. The chop saw will embed junk into the aluminum.
If your doing pipe, say for a turbo manifold, I use one of those round grinding stones on a 4" grinder to bevel my edges. Im amazed at how fast one of these will put an aggressive bevel on thick sch40 stainless. This same tool will also blast right through burrs.
Look into the dry cut saws with a material type specific blade. They look like a chop saw with a metal blade, but spin at a different rpm. They are pretty affordable and get similar results to a cold cut saw. They have almost a burr free cut, especially compared to the horrid mess a chop saw makes. Blades are expensive, but if treated right they can last.
If your doing pipe, say for a turbo manifold, I use one of those round grinding stones on a 4" grinder to bevel my edges. Im amazed at how fast one of these will put an aggressive bevel on thick sch40 stainless. This same tool will also blast right through burrs.
Look into the dry cut saws with a material type specific blade. They look like a chop saw with a metal blade, but spin at a different rpm. They are pretty affordable and get similar results to a cold cut saw. They have almost a burr free cut, especially compared to the horrid mess a chop saw makes. Blades are expensive, but if treated right they can last.
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