decent entry level welder?

[jd_1138]

I've never welded before but would like to get a basic welder. I'd like to build a simple 1/3 scale parade Model T car with a lawnmower engine, and also use it for general repairs on vehicles and around the house.

Neighbor has a tombstone Lincoln welder and he wants to help build the car, but I don't want to have to schlep the project/car over there continually to work on it. And he doesn't have room to store it there I think.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lincoln-Electric-Handy-MIG-Welder-K2185-1/100596739

Would this one work? Not really looking for a show quality weld. Just something that won't break. I thought about a HF one, but I don't want to get discouraged with an inferior welder. Rather start out with a better brand like Lincoln, Miller, Hobart.

 

[velillen01]

Will it work? Yeah. but its not a very powerful machine. It only does 1/8" inch. The shield is also meh.

What sort of budget do you have? That would help.

But I would try to bump up to something like a Miller 141, Hobart 130, or a Lincoln 140. All are more capable machines for not to much more.

Mask wise i have a Antra AH6-260-0000 Solar Power Auto Darkening Welding Helmet which has worked well and is comfortable to me. plus only costs ~50 bucks.

And do yourself a favor and pick up some gas so you can use gas instead of flux core. Bit nicer welds and I found it easier.


Thats my opinions at least

 

[MrGiggles]

Sounds like a small MIG will work best for your project. We have a Lincoln 135 and 140 at work, both have had miles of wire through them with no problems.

Stick welders are tough to use on thin material, but they offer a lot more versatility for the money spent.

 

[cgrutt]

I have a similar welder, a Weld Pac 100, which is either older version of same thing or one step up. I converted it to gas. The welder does an OK job on sheet metal and very thin steel but I wouldn't trust it for any structural applications. Not sure how thick of materials you will be welding with it and what you mean by repairs on vehicles. Will do an OK job for bodywork probably not so great with framing, etc. I believe the gun that comes with it is actually the same one used on some of their higher end welders. My welder has step power selection and variable wire feed. Only see one dial on picture above and assuming its for wire feed. Variable power selection and wire speed would be better. If I were buying again, I'd get a 180 at minimum and probably would go with a 220v unit.

 

[PSYKO_Inc]

Mig is super easy and can lay down some nice welds with gas, but it'll cost. If you want the ability to weld thick materials on the cheap with the option to weld outdoors or dirty/rusty metal, you can't beat an old school stick welder in my opinion. You can find Lincoln tombstones everywhere. The design hasn't changed since the 60s, they're tough as nails, and I've seen them go as cheap as $50 on CL.

 

[CNGsaves]

I'd go little better than that one . . . . . like Hobart Handler 140 or Lincoln 140

Here is example of HH 140 for $300 on CL:

http://louisville.craigslist.org/tls/5585200843.html

Google > > > Hobart Handler site:craigslist.org

Use the neighbor's Tombstone for thick welding, and your mig for thin.

 

[sk farmer]

i am sure i will get yelled at but real welders run on something more than 110-120. if you don't have access to 220 you more than likely don't have access to a dedicated 110 outlet with heavy enough wires and breaker to actually get the amount of current needed to run a low voltage welder

do yourself a favor and get yourself something in that 220 class. i personally have a miller 211 that will run on either but have never used it on the lower voltage. most jobs just require more umph than than that. there are several multi-voltage machines that run on 110 or 220 from a few different brands. i prefer miller but pick your brand.

 

[owenst7]

A 125A is the minimum I would recommend for what you want to do. You will need a 20 amp outlet. A lincoln/hobart/miller 125 is fine for 1/8" steel. You can go a little heavier with Flux core. I personally would not recommend messing with gmaw on a 110v welder unless youre doing sheet metal.

 

[southalabama]

Tractor supply has sales on the Hobart handler from time to time.

 

[kctyphoon]

That white HF inverter welder gets good video reviews from experienced welders a on YouTube.

Hope that helps. Maybe this is enough for you..

 

[Tinner]

That white HF inverter welder gets good video reviews from experienced welders a on YouTube.

Are you referring to internet bullshitters with 2 hours of experience?

 

[ovrrdrive]

I agree with sk farmer... For what you want to build you're going to need more power than a 110v welder can provide. I have a Miller MM180 and it runs really well. When I decided I wanted to learn I wanted to make sure I always knew if my welds looked like **** that I was the problem and not the cheap *** welder I bought. Miller makes good stuff.

 

[bczygan]

Schlep the tombstone over to your house. In fact, have him leave it there.

Problem solved.

 

[bczygan]

You have hit the welder conundrum.

A decent welder costs too much for a beginner.

A cheap welder will either put you off welding, or end up costing you more when you have to sell it to buy the good one anyway.

You MUST have 240V.

If it were me, I would try to get some experience on as many welders as possible. Go use your buddies one.

But first, get a quality hood, gloves, coat etc.

 

[Marcm157]

I had zero experience as well and decided to go with. Miller 190. I'm pretty sure it made learning easier then if I had gone with a cheap HF. I'm clearly not going to win any welding competitions anytime soon but I am happy with the welder and my progress.

 

[B_Bimmer]

I agree that a good machine makes a bad welder look better. I have also seen experience make a crappy machine look acceptable. I would recommend finding an acceptable used deal on a good machine, then if you don't get into it or want your money back you won't be out much.

One other thing, 110 can lay a very acceptable bead from a quality machine, and it is so convienent when you farm with equipment all over the county. We got a miller multimatic, paid for itself a hundred times, well maybe not yet, but I have no doubt it will over it's life. Very expensive, extremely portable, convienent as possible.

 

[zendriver]

I've never welded before but would like to get a basic welder. I'd like to build a simple 1/3 scale parade Model T car with a lawnmower engine, and also use it for general repairs on vehicles and around the house.

Neighbor has a tombstone Lincoln welder and he wants to help build the car, but I don't want to have to schlep the project/car over there continually to work on it. And he doesn't have room to store it there I think.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lincoln-Electric-Handy-MIG-Welder-K2185-1/100596739

Would this one work? Not really looking for a show quality weld. Just something that won't break. I thought about a HF one, but I don't want to get discouraged with an inferior welder. Rather start out with a better brand like Lincoln, Miller, Hobart.

This one is fine, IMO

MY brother has a machine shop and uses a Lincoln, just slightly larger than this one for all of his thin welding and a Lincoln tombstone, for all of his thicker stuff.

I have a wp100 and it will weld just as good as my limited welding experience will allow.

Interesting that many say you cannot do anything, without spending more money on equipment. If it's inexpensive, then it's worthless, even if it is an American made Lincoln.

The HF welders probably work fine, in the hands of someone that knows how to weld.

 

[BD1]

Save longer and buy a 220 volt machine. You can always turn the amps down on a larger machine but may get maxed out on a smaller one. Plus a larger amp machine will have a greater duty cycle than a small one working hard.
Check on Miller, Hobart, and Lincoln for current rebates and offers. Go to local welding suppliers and get a package deal . You'll need a tank of gas too and it may work out better, take CASH !

 

[bobcatdan]

I've never welded before but would like to get a basic welder. I'd like to build a simple 1/3 scale parade Model T car with a lawnmower engine, and also use it for general repairs on vehicles and around the house.

Neighbor has a tombstone Lincoln welder and he wants to help build the car, but I don't want to have to schlep the project/car over there continually to work on it. And he doesn't have room to store it there I think.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lincoln-Electric-Handy-MIG-Welder-K2185-1/100596739

Would this one work? Not really looking for a show quality weld. Just something that won't break. I thought about a HF one, but I don't want to get discouraged with an inferior welder. Rather start out with a better brand like Lincoln, Miller, Hobart.

Go with a 140 amp machine. That little Lincoln is little more then a soldering iron. Why we have a weld PAC 100 at work, I don't know why, but the thing is beyond useless. It's only can only think about the thinnest of metal and even then it's a beyond ****** weld.

 

[brownbagg]

i started with the miller 140 mig, i thought i was a welder. The smaller welder are only good for sheet metal and light steel, very light. You need something in the 200 range, you can always turn a big machine down. I bought a hobart 230 and its a total different world

 

[kctyphoon]

Are you referring to internet bullshitters with 2 hours of experience?

Well if someone owns 3 welders I suspect they have done a little welding. Weather they are just a hobby for the owners is fine. That, and the 30+ videos online calling it a good product like its reviews also state, lead me to believe it's worth the $130 and may be a good choice for small projects, which is what the OP is doing.

Yes - a more expensive welder will be better, as is true with just about any powered tool. But if this is a one or two project item then it might not be worth it to spend the money, especially if he is going to need to have electric service installed just to use it. OP - you could always buy a cheap welder just to hold your parts together, and then bring the project over to use your neighbors better machine and finish it off in a day or two. If cost is a factor, that might be a good option.

If you find its enough for your needs, it's a nice small machine and doesn't not require any 220 supply.. If it's not, you can always return it or sell it to upgrade with minimal investment lost. The small size, 110v service, and portability is a good selling point IMO. Good luck with your project.

Edit - this is a picture posted on the HF site that one of the reviewers left for feedback on that white inverter welder.

 

[DTE]

I just bought my son a Hobart AC/DC stick machine for a graduation present and I really like the DC side. They about five hundred for a Hobart or a Lincoln so that might break the budget. But with a stick machine you won't have to buy gas so that might help the learning curve and I am sure you could find a used AC/DC machine for a fair price. Around here at auction a used AC lincoln will generally bring around a hundred. I got off a nice Lincoln AC/DC machine the other week at 150 and the guy stole it for 155. Look at auction zip for your area there might be something there. BD1 made a good point about the duty cycle, I would try to buy the highest duty cycle I could afford if I planned on much welding.

 

[jd_1138]

Thanks for all the tips guys. I think I'll take the tubular pieces for the 1/3 Model T project over to neighbor's place and use his tombstone Lincoln to weld it up/learn. I'll buy a helmet and gloves so I don't have to use his. So don't need gas on a tombstone Lincoln? Not that I'd be averse to using gas. He's a 40 year diesel tech at a trucking co. and knows his stuff.

 

[slow_mow]

I've had an Eastwood 175 welder for about 3 years now, and it has been great. My main advise with it is to run .030 wire, it doesn't like .035.

http://www.eastwood.com/mig-welders-175-amp-mig-welder-w-spool-gun.html


I used it to completely rebuild my CJ3A, so I've got a lot of time with it.

 

[bobcatdan]

Thanks for all the tips guys. I think I'll take the tubular pieces for the 1/3 Model T project over to neighbor's place and use his tombstone Lincoln to weld it up/learn. I'll buy a helmet and gloves so I don't have to use his. So don't need gas on a tombstone Lincoln? Not that I'd be averse to using gas. He's a 40 year diesel tech at a trucking co. and knows his stuff.

A tombstone can be picked up used for $50 if you watch CL pretty easy. Stick welder is no gas so a box of rods and go to town. While building the frame and axle, stick is fine, unless your building the body of 1/4" plate, a stick welder isn't for making a body. Get a 140 amp mig welder set up with gas. Then pick up a $50 tombstone and you have all your needs covered. I have a 211 at home which serves my needs just fines. Even on 110, it's pretty capable. I want to add either a AC/DC tombstone or thunderbolt for the few times I'd weld something real heavy, for outside and possibly learn to weld cast.

 

[kunkernator]

Check out some of Northern Tool's Klutch welders. It is their housebrand, but I believe they are made by Tweco (similar to Tweco Fabricator). All Tweco/Lincoln consumables work on them. A LOT more bang for you buck.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/NTESearch?storeId=6970&ipp=24&Ntt=klutch+welder

I just bought this one.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200631881_200631881

Mig, stick, tig, and comes with a spoolgun. Up to 220 amp output.

 

[B_Bimmer]

Check out some of Northern Tool's Klutch welders. It is their housebrand, but I believe they are made by Tweco (similar to Tweco Fabricator). All Tweco/Lincoln consumables work on them. A LOT more bang for you buck.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/NTESearch?storeId=6970&ipp=24&Ntt=klutch+welder

I just bought this one.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200631881_200631881

Mig, stick, tig, and comes with a spoolgun. Up to 220 amp output.

That looks like a pretty sweet package.

 

[theoldwizard1]

IMHO, there are 2 thing you want in a low cost MIG welder.

1. Being able to use shield gas if you want to
2. If you can possibly afford it, get a dual voltage unit

 

[shoot summ]

Without question, a larger welder will do more for you.

That said, I have the Lincoln 135. So far it's done 99% of what I want to do quite well, and it didn't break the bank. Don't get me wrong, I drool over a larger Miller Mig welder, but I cannot justify the expense, I can afford it, but just can't justify it.

So that machine will work for what you want to do, if you can spend a little more you can get a machine that will do a bit more and last you a long time. IMO spend the extra money on a good helmet, they are worth it.

 

[Rlfd213]

I would keep an eye on Craigslist. I bought a Lincoln 210 MP for 500.00. It is a 1 year old matching and works great. Guy was closing his business down and selling all his stuff. If you're not in a hurry there are good deals out there you just have to find them.

 

[Tinner]

Well if someone owns 3 welders I suspect they have done a little welding. Weather they are just a hobby for the owners is fine. That, and the 30+ videos online calling it a good product like its reviews also state, lead me to believe it's worth the $130 and may be a good choice for small projects, which is what the OP is doing.

Yes - a more expensive welder will be better, as is true with just about any powered tool. But if this is a one or two project item then it might not be worth it to spend the money, especially if he is going to need to have electric service installed just to use it. OP - you could always buy a cheap welder just to hold your parts together, and then bring the project over to use your neighbors better machine and finish it off in a day or two. If cost is a factor, that might be a good option.

If you find its enough for your needs, it's a nice small machine and doesn't not require any 220 supply.. If it's not, you can always return it or sell it to upgrade with minimal investment lost. The small size, 110v service, and portability is a good selling point IMO. Good luck with your project.

Edit - this is a picture posted on the HF site that one of the reviewers left for feedback on that white inverter welder.

Thanks for making my point for me. In the video you linked to, the guy doesn't show one single decent weld. Cold ropey looking turds laying on top of the metal. So much for his experience.

In that photo, you have a weld that looks pretty, but is totally unacceptable structurally. The weld is extremely concave, it should be convex. Even flat would be acceptable in a low stress situation. That weld has about one third of the metal deposit needed. Welds like that often as not crack while cooling. Nice rod manipulation to get that appearance, but otherwise a fail. So much for his experience and yours for posting.

I've been welding since 1975 and I make a good living at it. I've run one of those HF inverters. Here are my thoughts:

The machine has a definite sweet spot between 50 and 70 amps, with 3/32 rod. Higher or lower with bigger or smaller rod and the arc is very unstable.

The machine is rated at a 35% duty cycle @ 70 amps. Welders are rated on a 10 minute duty cycle, so you should be able to run for 3.5 minutes, let the machine cool down for 6.5 and repeat. I don't know how they arrive at 35%, in reality it's more like 20% at 60 amps. More than that, the arc becomes unstable and the thing gets incredibly hot. I ran the machine at about 65 degrees ambient temp. Blowing a fan on it helps for a couple of cycles, after that it takes longer and longer to cool down. Maybe you have to put the machine in the freezer to get 35%.

The hot start feature is nice for beginners who have trouble lighting up a rod, but it's almost too much, really wants to burn through 11ga or less, unless you get moving right away. It would be nice if you could turn it off and on.

I was able to get some acceptable welds with it, but as with every 110v arc welder I've tried, it's a POS, with a very limited usefulness.

I can see a 130-140 amp MIG with an infinite voltage control being useful for a lot of folks, within a limited range. Anything less is pretty much a waste of time and money.

 

[ilovevocs]

Buying a welder is like talking about how people like their ribs.

Here's my .02 cents after reading through the thread.


I wouldn't buy a mig welder with a tapped power supply.

Don't prefer smaw with tapped either but if I was going low budget for an all around machine I would rather buy smaw buzz box with tapped power supply.

If you keep welding you'll want a feeder too. Then step up to a 200 class machine .


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ovrrdrive]

Thanks for making my point for me. In the video you linked to, the guy doesn't show one single decent weld. Cold ropey looking turds laying on top of the metal. So much for his experience.

In that photo, you have a weld that looks pretty, but is totally unacceptable structurally. The weld is extremely concave, it should be convex. Even flat would be acceptable in a low stress situation. That weld has about one third of the metal deposit needed. Welds like that often as not crack while cooling. Nice rod manipulation to get that appearance, but otherwise a fail. So much for his experience and yours for posting.

I was going to say the same thing... The guy that made that weld in the pic was a good welder trying to compensate for the shortfalls in the machine to get a nice looking weld. He was moving way too fast in that weld and didn't leave near enough rod. I seriously bet I could break that by hand or at most by tapping it on the side of the table.

 

[Tinner]

I was going to say the same thing... The guy that made that weld in the pic was a good welder trying to compensate for the shortfalls in the machine to get a nice looking weld. He was moving way too fast in that weld and didn't leave near enough rod. I seriously bet I could break that by hand or at most by tapping it on the side of the table.

Wouldn't take a 10# sledge to test that, would it?