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Decent Multimeter?

Milwookie

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Apr 20, 2016
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I have a fluke and about a $40 Gardner Bender with a rubber outside case.

I wouldn't walk across the room to get one over the other.

The fluke does seem to be made with a few small features that make it better for frequent use, but 95% of the time there's no difference.

The Fluke isn't necessarily more accurate or feature heavy than other meters. The biggest difference is how they're constructed to make them safer to use with high voltages (CAT III and IV). The cheaper meters are more likely to explode and injure you, the Fluke is more likely to just fail.

If you're working with low voltage (12-24 volts) the cheaper meters are just fine. If you do residential or commercial wiring, get the Fluke.
 
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Milwookie

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Be aware that Klein's meters are manufactured in the same plants as the cheap ones from Harbor Freight. South Korea and China primarily. Most of them are virtually identical inside to ones that cost half as much.
 

rlitman

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Be aware that Klein's meters are manufactured in the same plants as the cheap ones from Harbor Freight. South Korea and China primarily. Most of them are virtually identical inside to ones that cost half as much.

They're not awesome by any means, but they seem to have better QC than the HF stuff. More importantly, the carry a better category rating.
 

dclassical

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For a DC clamp why not buy an external one? This way they can also be plugged in an oscilloscope, should you get one later. And for the meter all you have to do is plug it in and do a conversion. That is the way I decided to go.
 

johninct

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For a DC clamp why not buy an external one? This way they can also be plugged in an oscilloscope, should you get one later. And for the meter all you have to do is plug it in and do a conversion. That is the way I decided to go.

I have a Blue Point Amp Clamp that I bought used but not sure if it is accurate so I figured if I get an inexpensive clamp on meter, I can both use it and see if my amp clamp is accurate.
 

Brownsfan

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A good DC clamp is not as easy to find as a good AC clamp.
I know people using the previous generation of this:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-To...o-Ranging-Digital-Clamp-Meter-CL800/206517428

who seem to like it well. What's your budget? Any features in particular you need?

I have this and have used it to measure 300-350a DC with no issues. I used to install some very custom and very loud audio systems. The Klein MM2000 AND CL2000 are very good meters for the price. I have had them for at least 4 years each. Never an issue and the display clarity is better than my old fluke. I bought these to replace a broken fluke meter as a temporary solution until I could afford another. Never did replace these with a fluke. Great bang for the buck.
 
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48548

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I don't trust my life to something that isn't Fluke. I've had the HF and Craftsman fail in spectacular ways.

Fluke 323 True-RMS Clamp Meter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQKIEXY/?tag=atomicindus08-20

This is my clever signature.

I ended up buying the Fluke 325 because I wanted to read the amps from my alternator and finding a dc amp clamp meter that can read high enough was hard to find. Most are AC only or the amp range on DC was too low.
 

Wanna Ride

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A while back, Home Depot had a good clearance run on their Milwaukee multi-meters and clamp-on meters. I bought several (for different locations) when my 25 year-old Fluke died, and have had no issues with them. Actually... I really like them.

I don't know, or care, where they're made. They're reliable, and were all inexpensive.
 

matthew

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Dec 4, 2009
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I just got a UNI-T 139C that i ordered off eBay. I haven't done anything more than play with it yet, a couple of thoughts on why I chose it:

- Most of the household and automotive electrical that I do is a matter of is there voltage (yes/no) and is there continuity. So a simple meter is adequate, and I had been thinking of going with the Fluke 101 as a reasonably priced very basic model.

- While I haven't particularly needed precision, the biggest problem I had with my old meter was that resistance measurements were impossible to get with any accuracy, to the point I couldn't tell if a heater was burned out or not. I think the main problem was the leads, but I didn't really want to buy good leads for a very cheap meter.

- While voltage/resistance/continuity was enough to do everything I've needed, I do take on the odd small project that pushes my capabilities. Looking at the Fluke 106, 12E+, 15B+ and 17B+ that are non-RMS meters from overseas markets, I thought there was better value propositions out there. I'd like the Fluke, but just wasn't willing to pay for it today.

- The one thing I did want was a good continuity check. A lot of the youtube reviews I saw said other meters had slow reactions to the continuity check, and since that's what I use most it is important. The UNI-T was decent in a few reviews I saw, otherwise I may have gone with an Amprobe model.

- The model I picked has a little less resolution than the 61E, but does have the thermocouple and frequency measurements, and a backlight, all of which I think will be useful for some of my projects. From what I can see the 61E might be better for electronics, and the 139C is better for all-around work.

- I'm hoping to use a magnet and a pickup loop to be able to measure RPM's on some things, so I did like the Hertz function being included.

- True RMS is only really useful or important if you have modified waveforms. if it's a true AC sine wave, no issues, but throw rectified signals, square waves, clipped waves, and you can get significant variation from the readings. But really if that becomes relevant I would think a scope is a better tool to use. That said the 139C does have True RMS.

One of the most important things on a multimeter is having a decent set of probes - good probes are the only way you're going to get good contacts is the only way you'll get good measurements. I have ordered Fluke probes and a set of alligator clip adaptors for the probes, and they haven't arrived yet. The probes on my meter seem not too bad, but you'd definitely want to clean them with alcohol before use. Just my view, but spending a few bucks on better leads is the first place I'd start upgrading if you're working on a budget.

In the multimeter world it does seem there are basically two types - Fluke, and everyone else. I saw good reviews on Brymen, but it was harder to find and a higher price point. And there's lots of cheap stuff out there, some of which is basically functional and some of which is horrible.
 

bmwrd0

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For HVAC/R a standard T5-600 will take care of pretty much all you need when you are just working on package units or splits on a rooftop that are controlled by a standard T-stat. When you get into controls for built up systems and hydronics, then True RMS is a must have. I upgraded to a Fluke 179 at that point.
 

nanofrog

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Looking at the Fluke 106, 12E+, 15B+ and 17B+ that are non-RMS meters from overseas markets, I thought there was better value propositions out there. I'd like the Fluke, but just wasn't willing to pay for it today.
FWIW, those are designed by Fluke, but manufactured by Uni-T in China.

The one thing I did want was a good continuity check. A lot of the youtube reviews I saw said other meters had slow reactions to the continuity check, and since that's what I use most it is important. The UNI-T was decent in a few reviews I saw, otherwise I may have gone with an Amprobe model.
Sounds like you want a latching type.

One of the most important things on a multimeter is having a decent set of probes - good probes are the only way you're going to get good contacts is the only way you'll get good measurements.
You might want to take a look at Probemaster next time. ;)

They sell directly and accept PayPal with free shipping within the continental US. :thumbup:

I've both, and prefer the Probemaster's I have (the 9000 modular series is better for electronics, while the 8000 series is better for industrial electricians, HVAC, and so on). Ended up with mostly Probemaster brand as a result, and have been exceedingly pleased. And they're less expensive for equivalent stuff of similar quality (or can get more for your money at a particular price point).

For example, take the Fluke/Pomona TLK 287 kit (both owned by Danaher) vs. a Pomona 9104 + 815x spring loaded probes kit (equivalent configuration/components to the respective kits). Not only does the Probemaster stuff come in cheaper (typical street prices for the TLK 287), but the spring loaded probes are better made than the Fluke/Pomona equivalents. So definitely quite a value IME. :thumbup:

BTW, I use this stuff daily.

In the multimeter world it does seem there are basically two types - Fluke, and everyone else. I saw good reviews on Brymen, but it was harder to find and a higher price point. And there's lots of cheap stuff out there, some of which is basically functional and some of which is horrible.
Brymen is another amazing value. :evil:

For the US, they're rebranded as Greenlee or in some cases, Mastech. If you want a Brymen labeled unit (which is typically less expensive), you'd want to go to TME.eu (located in Poland, but the s/h is ~ $10, and it's quick).

They're very well made IME, and a much better value than Fluke, Agilent, or Hioki.

I have Fluke, Agilent (now Keysight), and Brymen meters. All of them are decent meters, but the Brymen was by far the best value for a new meter. Only way you can beat it IME, is via the used market (you can get excellent meters for very good prices if you're patient and are willing to replace blown fuses if needed).
 

cesski

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Mar 14, 2016
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Brymen is another amazing value. :evil:

For the US, they're rebranded as Greenlee or in some cases, Mastech. If you want a Brymen labeled unit (which is typically less expensive), you'd want to go to TME.eu (located in Poland, but the s/h is ~ $10, and it's quick).

They're very well made IME, and a much better value than Fluke, Agilent, or Hioki.

I have Fluke, Agilent (now Keysight), and Brymen meters. All of them are decent meters, but the Brymen was by far the best value for a new meter. Only way you can beat it IME, is via the used market (you can get excellent meters for very good prices if you're patient and are willing to replace blown fuses if needed).

Which Brymen do you recommend?
 

nanofrog

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Which Brymen do you recommend?
A few questions...

  • What do you need it to do (HVAC, electronics, ...)?
  • What features (i.e. logging, temperature,...)?
  • What level of precision and accuracy (number of digits/counts & basic accuracy specs)?
  • Budget?
 

ez-duzit

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Jun 24, 2013
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Marina del Rey
You know I like the good stuff. But my cheapest multi-meter, from Radio Shack, has provided flawless service, for decades, only recently requiring replacement leads. It is small and lightweight and very handy.
 

rebel1851

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Jun 9, 2012
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Southwest Virginia
Several years ago, when i was first starting out in the HVAC industry, I bought a Fieldpiece SC66 thinking that it would have to do until i could afford a nice Fluke meter. I still have it and trust my life with it several times a day, 6 days a week!! It has been in the rain, snow, 130 degree attics, some of the worst crawlspaces you could think of, dropped off roofs/ladders and it still works as good as the day it was bought. Not knocking Fluke, i have used a coworkers and they are great meters. But if/when this Fieldpiece decides to die, I wouldn't hesitate to buy another one.
 

cesski

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Mar 14, 2016
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A few questions...

  • What do you need it to do (HVAC, electronics, ...)?
  • What features (i.e. logging, temperature,...)?
  • What level of precision and accuracy (number of digits/counts & basic accuracy specs)?
  • Budget?

Already bought a used Fluke 115 off ebay. Thanks though!
 
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