deck screw removal tip?

[Kaizen]

I'm resurfacing my deck and using trex with Cortex screws and plugs. I'm having an issue with some screws such as pictured that lose their bite and won't back out or go in further. Before I start messing with it i was wondering if anyone has any trick for this issue? Some are just below the surface as well but not deep enough for a plug.
Normally i'd hammer something in next to it and pry up as i was unscrwing but i am concerned it will screw up the hole the plug is supposed to use.
These make a mess coming out which messes up the hole as well so i didn't want to unscrew the whole board and hammer it out as that is just making more issues with the other screw holes.

 

[cgrutt]

Ugh I'm assuming that's the new screws and decking need to figure out why they're stripping hopefully framing is not split or rotted. If it is I'd replace the joists, at least the ones that are giving you trouble.

As far as removing screws without damaging board that can be tricky. You need to put some pressure on screw either horizontally under head or pulling up while turning. Obviously much easier if head is fully exposed. I usually use a prybar or cats paw and try to drive the "V" under head. Sometimes something flat like a paint scraper works. If you have access underneath you can drive a prybar between screw and joist and put some upward pressure or engage the threads. It's much easier with old decking where you're not concerned about damaging board. Worse case just pull the good screws, pry the board out and hit the screws out with hammer (just enough to engage threads then unscrew them). Good luck.

 

[welder4956]

You may need to predrill the screw holes if the screws aren't strong enough to drive through the Trex.

 

[Kaizen]

You may need to predrill the screw holes if the screws aren't strong enough to drive through the Trex.

I did do that one day when it was 23 degrees but above freezing they go ok.

 

[Kaizen]

Ugh I'm assuming that's the new screws and decking need to figure out why they're stripping hopefully framing is not split or rotted. If it is I'd replace the joists, at least the ones that are giving you trouble.

As far as removing screws without damaging board that can be tricky. You need to put some pressure on screw either horizontally under head or pulling up while turning. Obviously much easier if head is fully exposed. I usually use a prybar or cats paw and try to drive the "V" under head. Sometimes something flat like a paint scraper works. If you have access underneath you can drive a prybar between screw and joist and put some upward pressure or engage the threads. It's much easier with old decking where you're not concerned about damaging board. Worse case just pull the good screws, pry the board out and hit the screws out with hammer (just enough to engage threads then unscrew them). Good luck.

Right the pics shown are the new stuff. Some of them probably hit between the blocking and studs but others for some reason just don't bite even though i know there is new blocking under there. On the risers its a larger issue as the only thing i can go into is the stair stringer ends. I put those in at a little bit of an angle. All of this wood is fresh. Even on the older wood i was able to get good bites most of the time.
None of thes has access from under. yea you do the same tricks as i do. Just trying to not be a hack here as this stuff looks like **** when something is out of place. Also due to the stair design i can't pry up with a flat bar from underneath. The treads are pre assembled but would rip apart if i tried.

 

[Pen & Wrench]

So they are breaking, right? Thus they won’t go back out or in further? If they truly did break, I suppose you could take all the screws out of that board and drive out the broken screw, if in fact they did break. If they didn’t actually break, then maybe pry the board up and turn it out as cgrutt has already mentioned. Best of luck and skill to you. I

 

[jonesg]

you might need a new bit.
if the bit is engaging without stripping the head then just keep going until it strips and clears the hole out, then run in reverse without down pressure it should lift enough to grab. Use a longer screw to find new wood or fake it with a bit of packing or drop some epoxy in the hole to retain it.

As Winston Churchill said " when going through hell, keep going".

 

[Digster]

like jonesg suggested has always worked for me....

 

[Kaizen]

you might need a new bit.
if the bit is engaging without stripping the head then just keep going until it strips and clears the hole out, then run in reverse without down pressure it should lift enough to grab. Use a longer screw to find new wood or fake it with a bit of packing or drop some epoxy in the hole to retain it.

As Winston Churchill said " when going through hell, keep going".

No the screws are not breaking. They are actually very tough for the thin size. The issue is they have two different threads on them. See below. No the bit is not slipping either. The screws are turning just fine. When a screw agrees to come out, the top thread recuts the decking on its way out. So it pulls out shreds like you would find drilling metal on a drill press. So if the thinner threads in the wood are not solid, then the second thread doesnt allow it to reverse out like a normal screw. Also you can see how small the head is so getting anything but the thinest of screw drivers under it is impossilbe.
I think i will give that a try and if that doesnt work try and drill the head of it out enough to fit a plug and hide the mess. I was hoping i was missing some trick

 

[southalabama]

Using a drill or impact ?

 

[jonesg]

No the screws are not breaking. They are actually very tough for the thin size. The issue is they have two different threads on them. See below. No the bit is not slipping either. The screws are turning just fine. When a screw agrees to come out, the top thread recuts the decking on its way out. So it pulls out shreds like you would find drilling metal on a drill press. So if the thinner threads in the wood are not solid, then the second thread doesnt allow it to reverse out like a normal screw. Also you can see how small the head is so getting anything but the thinest of screw drivers under it is impossilbe.
I think i will give that a try and if that doesnt work try and drill the head of it out enough to fit a plug and hide the mess. I was hoping i was missing some trick

sounds like a drill screw.
smack it with a hammer and put full weight on it to drive it home.

 

[Kaizen]

Using a drill or impact ?

been using an impact. thats a thought. maybe it will like the smoothness of a drill better

 

[Kaizen]

sounds like a drill screw.
smack it with a hammer and put full weight on it to drive it home.

I'll give it a shot. bfh and a set thing will probably get it moving

 

[jar944]

Its the reverse threads just under the heads. If they go in and don't bite (for whatever reason) they don't come out without a fight, and will almost certainly require assistance from underneath. Or just spin it till it burns itself deep enough to plug.

 

[jar944]

you might need a new bit.
if the bit is engaging without stripping the head then just keep going until it strips and clears the hole out, then run in reverse without down pressure it should lift enough to grab. Use a longer screw to find new wood or fake it with a bit of packing or drop some epoxy in the hole to retain it.

As Winston Churchill said " when going through hell, keep going".

These are composite deck screws that frankly are not made to come out w/o damage. You can run it in reverse, but the reverse threads under the head keep it from coming back through the composite cap. Well that and the hole it cuts slightly closes up and is undersized compared to the head of the screw. At $1 screw and $100-$200 board its painful to miss a joist.

 

[snod83]

This probably isn't the most correct answer, but I have taken a small punch and "nailed" the screw in deep enough to use the appropriate plug - just making sure the punch is small enough to not make too large of a hole. A nail set works OK too.

 

[ludakris04]

here is an old post I ran across googling.

deck screws not counter sinking

www.contractortalk.com

I was thinking it was the cold temp, but it might be the impact.
I used cortex screws in some PVC trim boards and had no issues, but it was summer.

 

[thammel]

I did my son's deck with trex and these screws. I absolutely hate these screws. A solution I found is to also get a box of longer ones. I found that if the joist isn't new and or has a soft spot, you may have trouble using these screws.

 

[Zeke]

I recently had a box of screws that stripped out going in about half way. I always reach for a new bit the first time that happens. New bits and I still had a lot of trouble. I finally went and got another box of screws at a different place and a different brand. My conclusion is there are some really cheap screws on the shelves today. And some bits are total junk, so it pays to buy brand name bits.

 

[egdede]

GRK stainless, forget the plugs. No one looks twice at a screw on a deck. Keep your lines straight and the screws look good.

 

[jar944]

I recently had a box of screws that stripped out going in about half way. I always reach for a new bit the first time that happens. New bits and I still had a lot of trouble. I finally went and got another box of screws at a different place and a different brand. My conclusion is there are some really cheap screws on the shelves today. And some bits are total junk, so it pays to buy brand name bits.

They are fastenmaster torx head screws. The heads dont strip, they just don't grab in punky wood or endgrain ans will split 2x lumber if you get close to the edge. They require predrilling a 7/32" hole 3/8 deep for the head in composite decking and per the instructions shouldn't be driven with a impact driver. Though I haven't had issues using one.

 

[firebirdparts]

I found these things to be pretty spectacular in new wood. I can see where if you refloor an old deck they might not fight hard enough.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

If you can slip a putty knife under the deck board and against the screw the threads may bite enough to back the screw out.
If they just need to go a bit deeper maybe drive them in with a punch or hammer type impact driver.

 

[Rusted Nut]

You need to get a small pry bar and grind out notch so fits over the screw shank. Put the bar under the head and pull up as you unscrew.

 

[dogdog]

6 in. Long Nose Locking Pliers

Amazing deals on this 6In Long Nose Locking Pliers at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

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if you can grab it with a locking needle nose or what post #24 Rusted Nut mention pry from under the screw head and screw out.

Not decking but I have few of those construction screws that does this.. either the wood below got some what stripped and won't reverse proper and just spins in place. have to use a flat head and pry while reversing .

 

[Viper98912]

Confused here; are you trying to remove the old deck screws, or install new ones? The picture you showed, is that removing an old one, or installing a new one?

I remember using the Azek branded boards and screws and honestly had no issue. The reverse thread at the end does wonders for cleaning up the hole so you can have a nice clean hole for the plug.

I do remember having to put some body weight into the screw to get it to seat properly, and I used a normal drill, not an impact. With the right weight on the bit and the right speed, you can get a fairly consistent seat every single time where you let the little foam washer end force you to stop spinning on the head (as pictured above).

I also remember I did have two screws that didn't seat right and I tried to back them out. For one of them I just gave up and rammed it in further; for the other I do remember having to fight it (because of the reverse thread) and I ended up mangling the hole a bit. If you're looking to remove all of the deck screws, be careful because you may end up mangling the boards so much you may need to put on new ones.

 

[Dakotadadv8]

Prybar and impact driver with good bits. Buy good bits and not cheap ones. I replace bits before they wear out stripping screws them slows you down. My DIY deck is over 20 years old good old treated lumber maintenance helps.

 

[Kaizen]

here is an old post I ran across googling.

deck screws not counter sinking

www.contractortalk.com

I was thinking it was the cold temp, but it might be the impact.
I used cortex screws in some PVC trim boards and had no issues, but it was summer.

i've done the same in summer with an impact.

Confused here; are you trying to remove the old deck screws, or install new ones? The picture you showed, is that removing an old one, or installing a new one?

I remember using the Azek branded boards and screws and honestly had no issue. The reverse thread at the end does wonders for cleaning up the hole so you can have a nice clean hole for the plug.

I do remember having to put some body weight into the screw to get it to seat properly, and I used a normal drill, not an impact. With the right weight on the bit and the right speed, you can get a fairly consistent seat every single time where you let the little foam washer end force you to stop spinning on the head (as pictured above).

I also remember I did have two screws that didn't seat right and I tried to back them out. For one of them I just gave up and rammed it in further; for the other I do remember having to fight it (because of the reverse thread) and I ended up mangling the hole a bit. If you're looking to remove all of the deck screws, be careful because you may end up mangling the boards so much you may need to put on new ones.

i'm installing these new. I too used boxes of azek this past summer on white pvc trim and loved them. Only issues was when i missed wood under the trim. These cortex are the same exact thing with the same setting bit. trust me my arm still hurts from the pressure i was using. they are 2.5 inches and the decking is 7/8. The picture shown has 2x10 on the flat under it. So screwing into the side of a 2x and had this issue.
I'll give a few suggestions a try. I have snow coming so trying to get the railing installed before i mess with these screws.

 

[Kaizen]

I recently had a box of screws that stripped out going in about half way. I always reach for a new bit the first time that happens. New bits and I still had a lot of trouble. I finally went and got another box of screws at a different place and a different brand. My conclusion is there are some really cheap screws on the shelves today. And some bits are total junk, so it pays to buy brand name bits.

These are 80 bucks a box. Definitley a well made screw despite my install problems i've put in several hundred on this deck and only having this issue on maybe 20.

 

[Kaizen]

GRK stainless, forget the plugs. No one looks twice at a screw on a deck. Keep your lines straight and the screws look good.

I redid the decking on this deck about ten years ago with pt with the standard coated screw. i'll give you a guess where the rot was. right at the penetration. I spent the money on trex so i could have that smooth look so now if i have any imperfections it will be obvious to everyone. For the majority of the deck i used trex hidden fasterners that go in grooves.

 

[ludakris04]

I feel like its a temperature thing.

Wait for a warmer/ sunny day?

 

[Kaizen]

I feel like its a temperature thing.

Wait for a warmer/ sunny day?

eh most of the work was done on high 40s and 50s. A couple also freezing days but it happened on both. I'll give a normal drill a try on the rest of the fascia and see how it goes.

 

[jar944]

eh most of the work was done on high 40s and 50s. A couple also freezing days but it happened on both. I'll give a normal drill a try on the rest of the fascia and see how it goes.

How deep did you pre-drill?

 

[Kaizen]

How deep did you pre-drill?

when i did it was half way through the deck board. I only predrilled on the cold days when the screw didn't start cutting on its own. I did see in their instructions that only a drill should be used. So i quasi followed their directions

 

[jar944]

when i did it was half way through the deck board. I only predrilled on the cold days when the screw didn't start cutting on its own. I did see in their instructions that only a drill should be used. So i quasi followed their directions

You are supposed to pre-drill 3/8" deep on every hole for the screw head. Every hole less than 1.5" from a cut end gets a pilot hole in addition to the 7/32x 3/8-1/2 deep countersink hole.

 

[Zeke]

I would think, and I do most of the time, especially in anything but brand new wet wood, that you would predrill a hole nearly the length of the screw. I find that many say the drill size should equal the minor diameter. IDK what the manufacturer of the screws, deck boards, or both have to say about lube. I personally like a touch of bar soap, like Ivory. It's supposed to be just soap, nothing more.

I don't think it is corrosive or damaging to the wood, but I'll admit I haven't spent hours reading on this. Maybe someone uses mineral oil, who knows? Actually I haven't tried that and it doesn't sound bad.

 

[Viper98912]

^^ I don't think pre-drilling is required with this type of screw, since it's specifically made for composite deck boards. I don't remember pre-drilling anything, but I also made the deck when it was 60-70 degrees outside.

 

[jar944]

Deleted

 

[Uncle murph]

I'm resurfacing my deck and using trex with Cortex screws and plugs. I'm having an issue with some screws such as pictured that lose their bite and won't back out or go in further. Before I start messing with it i was wondering if anyone has any trick for this issue? Some are just below the surface as well but not deep enough for a plug.
Normally i'd hammer something in next to it and pry up as i was unscrwing but i am concerned it will screw up the hole the plug is supposed to use.
These make a mess coming out which messes up the hole as well so i didn't want to unscrew the whole board and hammer it out as that is just making more issues with the other screw holes.

I have found that a old fashioned brace(AKA handtool)is best for removing fubared screws,you get more body weight and absolute perfect torque management,it works almost every time.If your particular screw kit has the little ****** on the driver bit,grind it off on the one you’re using for removal.

 

[CraigStu]

I'd dump those screws. See how the thread is reversed under the head? The idea is that when driven into perfect joists, the normal thread runs the screw into the joists and that reverse thread adds a bit of pull on the decking board to squeeze the board to the joist. Problem is that the screws are an absolute b---h to remove. I used a bunch of similar screws last summer redoing our porch w/ composite. Mine were perfectly color matched to the decking and had slightly smaller than normal head diameter so they look great but man, don't mess up. I have about like you, maybe 20 that did mess up. I struggled to remove them and just skipped that screw and came back later. I ended up using standard deck screws in a fairly close brown color.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Deck-Plus-10-x-3-in-Ceramic-Deck-Screws-1-lb/1000766366

When I do our deck this summer, I will be using the Deck Plus screws.