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Deck update

oachalon

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Hi,

I am replacing the top of my existing deck that was built back in 2004 (not me). The structure is sturdy and no rot at all but it was built using the old post to beam method where the beams are bolted to the side of the posts.

I am not getting it inspected, but i also want to try and bring it up to code as much as possible. The posts are 4x4's. Anyway to "easily" bring this up to new standards without having to modify all of the structure? i saw Simpson ties sells those zmax deck ties:


Would that pass inspection even though its not being inspected? Located in ohio.

The deck is only 19 inches off the ground.
 
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Old tool guy

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So the question is … does your town require a permit for replacing the decking? Or is it considered maintenance? No permit … deck is grandfathered to the code when it was built, so i would add the brackets to improve the structure.
 
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oachalon

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I guess my question because i am crazy, what is the easiest way to get this structure up to standards without a major overhaul. Is there a way to attach something to the existing posts that is within code that supports those side beams?
 

CraigStu

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Personally I wouldn't worry about it. But the Simpson ties look good, they are easy to install, so why not.
 

Old tool guy

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I guess my question because i am crazy, what is the easiest way to get this structure up to standards without a major overhaul. Is there a way to attach something to the existing posts that is within code that supports those side beams?
It would seem you could bolt a 2x4 to the side of the 4x to create bearing …but that doesn’t work. The full post hast to go down in the soil to bearing. So i would add brackets that would improve the strength without trying to meet current code.
 
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oachalon

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From the bottom of the side beams to the ground is literally 8" to 10" Could i put pressure treated 2x10's across that come in contact with the ground?
 

mike93lx

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From the bottom of the side beams to the ground is literally 8" to 10" Could i put pressure treated 2x10's across that come in contact with the ground?
What will that do? The dirt is soft and isn't going to support much, plus the wood will eventually rot
 

cosmokenney

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I think (I'm not an expert in this in any way) in some jurisdictions you can have the county inspector come out prior to you starting work. He should be able to tell you if your plans are good/bad and make suggestions to keep you in code.
 

mike93lx

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I think (I'm not an expert in this in any way) in some jurisdictions you can have the county inspector come out prior to you starting work. He should be able to tell you if your plans are good/bad and make suggestions to keep you in code.
Inviting an inspector out for a project that doesn't require it? That's feels unnecessarily risky

If you want another set of eyes, hiring a third party inspector would probably be smarter
 

zak77

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I'd say that since it's been fine for 20 years then i probably wouldnt do anything but if you are adamant about adding to the structure then why not just fasten some pt 2x4's under the beam, attached to the post with structural screws, to add to the support of the beam. Not all building inspectors are out to hose everyone into building a fortress, some will honestly help you out and save you a lot of aggravation.
 
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Joemctag

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Thanks, Larry. That’s really user-friendly with plenty of drawings. I DID really want to know about “( beam) overhang not to exceed one fourth of actual ( underlined ) beam span. Does that mean total beam length or length center-to-center of supporting posts? Thought you might know . I like to build stuff with cantilevers.
 

Joemctag

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What will that do? The dirt is soft and isn't going to support much, plus the wood will eventually rot
True. Maybe they could place some short stacks of concrete blocks or stepping stones under beams so that if the beam-to-post connection fails, the beam won’t fall much.
 

mike93lx

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Thanks, Larry. That’s really user-friendly with plenty of drawings. I DID really want to know about “( beam) overhang not to exceed one fourth of actual ( underlined ) beam span. Does that mean total beam length or length center-to-center of supporting posts? Thought you might know . I like to build stuff with cantilevers.
Beam span is not total length, it's the distance from center to center of the supports
 

JSGAuto

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I had went thru something similar. The posts were high enough I was able to cut them off and place a 2x10 ontop converting to post-on beam...but by this point its almost an entire new deck. You would be replacing joists & everything.
 

Viper98912

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I'm confused, is there a problem you're trying to fix? Or are you trying to find a problem for a solution?
 
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oachalon

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There is not a problem i am trying to fix exactly. I figured since im replacing the top (original trex and its just worn and done) to a new timbertech top, why not bring the structure to latest code if i can easily. The current structure is completely solid, no movement, no sagging, nothing. Its structurally fine just not to new code.
 

manwithtools

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20 years and no problems, still sturdy? I would just rock on, with as low to the ground that deck is even a catastrophic (highly unlikely) collapse would be unlikely to result in injury. If it makes you feel better, add the Simpson brackets. Can't see it being a good use of money at this point. The method of construction used on your deck was used on many others that did not and have not failed. Codes change and evolve to be more comprehensive, that does not mean the older methods were going to fail, they just had a higher risk of doing so. As mention, joist tape is probably a good idea while you have the decking stripped off.
 

MoonRise

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Unfortunately, a lot of the 'new' code requirements are because of past failures of structures. And many of those past failures were sudden and catastrophic, with injuries and/or fatalities.

The deck or structure was 'ok', until it suddenly WASN'T.

So I'll tell the OP that his idea is good and worthwhile.

He KNOWS that his existing deck structure is not up to current code and thus has some sort(s) of possible vulnerabilities. He wants to address those if possible.

So the plan is to strip off the old worn-out Trex boards and replace with new deck boards. Once the deck boards are off, inspect the joists, beams and the posts and ALL the fasteners holding them together. Rotten? Replace it. Corroded fastener or fastener not really holding things together anymore? Replace. Joist-to-beam and beam-to-post connections might benefit from adding some sort of metal bracketry instead of relying on the original nails-in-sheer type of structure. Add where possible using the CORRECT fasteners and following the CORRECT fastener patterns.

Speaking of fasteners, use the correct fasteners with the correct corrosion protection. Same with any possible metal brackets, corrosion protection is critical.
 

andyvh1959

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I'm with the others if it hasn't been a problem don't waste the money to over do it. If it passed code when it was built in 2004, its good now. Other than standard construction (like beam spacing) is there really a code for decks in your area? Deck on my house is elevated, I can almost walk under it standing straight (5'-6") and it was built in 1973 (yes, it's 51 years old). I'm replacing the original deck boards I turned over back in 2011, going to Trex composite. I'll just add deck beam tape over the joists, maybe some hanger brackets, and new posts set into concrete (like they should have done back in 73). I don't plan to get an inspector or a permit for that matter. I just replacing the deck boards and actually improving the structure.
 

PCustoms

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Thread is useless without pictures

19" off the ground (railing not required) and still sturdy means leave it alone to me.
 
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manwithtools

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20 years and no problems, still sturdy? I would just rock on, with as low to the ground that deck is even a catastrophic (highly unlikely) collapse would be unlikely to result in injury. If it makes you feel better, add the Simpson brackets. Can't see it being a good use of money at this point. The method of construction used on your deck was used on many others that did not and have not failed. Codes change and evolve to be more comprehensive, that does not mean the older methods were going to fail, they just had a higher risk of doing so. As mention, joist tape is probably a good idea while you have the decking stripped off.

Thread is useless without pictures

19" off the ground (railing bit required) and still sturdy means leave it alone to me.

Yep, 19" and still sturdy as a rock? Just move on...
 
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oachalon

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Update, i ripped off the old deck boards and new deck boards have been replaced. There was no rot at all, and everything was solid and sturdy. Home depot did have the DJT14Z deck joist ties in stock, so i bought those with their proper fasteners and added them.

Should be good to go for many years to come.
 
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