Dedicated Electrical Meter Cost

[ard]

I am in no way tied to the dedicated service and appreciate the insight. It sounds like a 100 amp sub panel will likely be the way to go- any ideas on cost of running 250' wire to support this amperage?

There are, and I am guessing here, perhaps 50 individual threads on 'how big a wire do I need for my 2xx ft line to my shop with a 100A service and how much will it cost.'

These threads have all the details, calculations, pros and cons of using conduit versus direct bury..>AL vs CU... 90 vs 100A etc etc

So you distance- from the house panel out of the wall, into the ground, across the ground, then up into the garage through the wall and into the panel is 250? Not 240? Not 260? It can matter.

You can run #1/0 Copper in conduit 277 feet at 100A
You can run #3/0 Alum in conduit 266 feet.

3" Conduit is 1.50 a foot. Im going to roughly estimate that thhn is 1.60 a foot time 3 plus $1 a ft for the ground. So 1.50+4.80+1=7.30 a foot.

Approx 2k in materials

 

[James-W]

It hurts the wallet to run cable that can support 300 amps and tear out your distribution panel for a new 300 amp unit when it turns out your normal load came in well under 100 amps, and absolute worst case still wasn't anywhere near 200.

If you read the opening post, he mentioned two choices, running a line from his house, or having a new service put in. If he puts in a new service, around here at least, the power company will run the line up to 100 feet for free. They will run 100 amp or 200 amp, either way there is no charge. I am saying it makes more sense to run the 200 amp service than it is to run the 100 amp service. The only cost difference is the cost of the electrical panel. Whether he actually NEEDS 200 amps or not makes no difference, he will have the power available should the need arise at some point in the future. For the small difference in cost between the 100 amp electrical panel and the 200 panel, why would you NOT want to get the 200 amp service?

If he runs the line from his house, then I could see why he would want to go with the smaller service. But if he gets a new service then to my mind getting the larger 200 amp line is a no-brainer.

 

[American Locomotive]

Re-read the original post more carefully to what he actually wants to do.

 

[ard]

If you read the opening post, he mentioned two choices, running a line from his house, or having a new service put in. If he puts in a new service, around here at least, the power company will run the line up to 100 feet for free. They will run 100 amp or 200 amp, either way there is no charge. I am saying it makes more sense to run the 200 amp service than it is to run the 100 amp service. The only cost difference is the cost of the electrical panel. Whether he actually NEEDS 200 amps or not makes no difference, he will have the power available should the need arise at some point in the future. For the small difference in cost between the 100 amp electrical panel and the 200 panel, why would you NOT want to get the 200 amp service?

If he runs the line from his house, then I could see why he would want to go with the smaller service. But if he gets a new service then to my mind getting the larger 200 amp line is a no-brainer.

If you read the whole thread, two things become clear:

1. What the PoCo does WHERE **YOU** LIVE doensnt matter to the OP.

2. BPE (his PoCo) will not allow a second meter on a lot, unless he calls one a 'commercial' structure. He is then responsible for all install costs (never mind that he may not be able to call it commercial on a residential lot).

 

[James-W]

If you read the whole thread, two things become clear:

1. What the PoCo does WHERE **YOU** LIVE doensnt matter to the OP.

2. BPE (his PoCo) will not allow a second meter on a lot, unless he calls one a 'commercial' structure. He is then responsible for all install costs (never mind that he may not be able to call it commercial on a residential lot).

If he can't do it, then he can't do it. But if he could, then running the 200 amp service is a no-brainer. If he runs the power from his house, he will be in for a rather hefty cost to replace the existing electrical service and then run a line to the garage. Either way this will end in a large expense.

 

[BDT/NWMN]

I would do some serious load calculations on the house and future garage. At My rural residential location; the meter fee is $31.00 per month, plus sales tax. That is close to $397 per year if no power is used.. These figures would wash away any thoughts for Me getting a second meter. Our meter fee was increased last month, along with the electric rates. Simply glad I don't have two meters to pay for every month.(2 x $397 would be $794 before spending a penny on actual energy costs) No thanks. My 200 amp service handles My 1500 sq ft house and 1500 sq ft shop just fine.. 80 gallon compressor, electric water heater, and electric heat with propane backup..

Do some math and ask the power company about any projected rate and fee increases.

I can only relate My experience; but I would feel like a turd If I said nothing and You or another GJ Member ended up getting un-necessarily strapped with those fees.

 

[American Locomotive]

If he can't do it, then he can't do it. But if he could, then running the 200 amp service is a no-brainer. If he runs the power from his house, he will be in for a rather hefty cost to replace the existing electrical service and then run a line to the garage. Either way this will end in a large expense.

Please read the original post. His home already has 200 amp service, but he was under the impression if he ran a 100 amp feed from his house to the garage, he'd have to upgrade his house to 300 amp service. That is very unlikely to be the case.

 

[James-W]

Please read the original post. His home already has 200 amp service, but he was under the impression if he ran a 100 amp feed from his house to the garage, he'd have to upgrade his house to 300 amp service. That is very unlikely to be the case.

I DID read the opening post. He said he wanted to have a new electrical service to the garage, OR he wanted to increase his home electrical service to 300 amps and then run a service line out to the garage from his home electrical service panel. Then he asked if anyone knew what it would cost to do either of those two things. I commented on the new service based upon the power company we have locally. I have no way to know what his power company does, but if it is anything like we have then he can get a new electrical service run to the garage for free. There is a monthly meter charge but he wouldn't have to do anything to his home electrical service. If his local power company won't run a new service to his garage for free, then my comments don't apply.

As far as his power requirements are concerned, I have no idea how much power his current needs are, nor do I know what his future power needs will be. But regardless of what his current needs are, having more power than he needs is infinitely better than having too little power.

 

[GRivera]

My original post was based on the misconception that my current 200 amp service at the house is maxed out. How do I go about doing a load calculation?

It is a 4br, 2.5 bath house with a finished basement and attached 2 car garage. It currently measures 2300 sf and I will be expanding the kitchen and family room for another 300 sf. The appliance package will remain basic (microwave, side by side fridge, electric smooth top stove). The house is all electric with one heat pump. Not sure if the addition will require in wall hvac unit. I currently have a 60 amp sub panel for my 18x36 swimming pool with another heat pump on a 30 amp breaker by itself. The pool pump is a 1hp model.

The detached 30x40 garage will have a yet to be purchased 2 stage air compressor - not sure on model yet. A 2 post car lift; a Hobart Handler 140 mig welder, numerous outlets and lights, a garage door opener, a small fridge, a bench grinder and an array of other automotive tools.

I am not sure what heat/AC I would end up with in the detached garage.

 

[AntonLargiader]

How do I go about doing a load calculation?

Start with as complete an inventory as you can do of your house loads. Most appliances have their load marked on them in VA or amps. For some I could not find the info so I used the breaker capacity. Mine looked like this:

• 1900 SFT
• Washer 12A x 120 =1440 VA
• Dryer (gas) 6A x 120 = 720 VA
• Range (gas) 15A/120 breaker = 1800 VA
• Range hood 3.5A x 120 = 420 VA
• Dishwasher 11.5A x 120 = 1380 VA
• Fridge 7.7A x 120 = 924 VA
• Freezer 5A x120 = 600 VA
• Microwave 10.9A x 120 = 1308 VA
• Water heater 4500W = 4500 VA
• Well pump 15A/240 breaker = 3600 VA
• Main AHU (gas) 20A/120 breaker = 240 VA
• Main compressor 12.5A x 240 = 3000 VA
• 2nd AHU 30A/240 breaker = 7200 VA
• 2nd compressor 10.5A x 240 = 2520 VA
• Whole house fan probably 1/3 HP, never used with heat

Then someone here will hopefully be able to tell you how to process the info.

 

[American Locomotive]

We have an all electric house, and it took someone using all the burners and oven on the stove, 3 window air condtioners + dehumidifier, dryer going, someone taking a shower (water heater + well), bunch of lights on, TV on, etc... to just trip our 100A main. We upgraded to a 200 amp service after that. We would be hard pressed to double our power usage.

 

[heffneil]

I just installed what's called a meter main combo to my building. It replaces the meter with a larger can and has two breakers. One for the house and one for the garage. Cost me $5000 for the entire thing but I ran the conduit to he building myself and I had about a 100 foot run. 250mcm was aluminum not copper which was fine with me. This did include the 42 space panel. Each of the two breakers are 200 amps (one for house one for garage). Didn't have to upgrade the feeders from the pole. Utility is fine to burn up their wire. good luck


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[wyliesdiesels]

If you read the whole thread, two things become clear:

1. What the PoCo does WHERE **YOU** LIVE doensnt matter to the OP.

2. BPE (his PoCo) will not allow a second meter on a lot, unless he calls one a 'commercial' structure. He is then responsible for all install costs (never mind that he may not be able to call it commercial on a residential lot).

James isnt paying attention.

His comments about his location add nothing to the thread or help the OP.

How do I go about doing a load calculation?

Here is a load calc sheet that mike holt made:

https://www.mikeholt.com/documents/calculations/formulas/ResidentialLoadCalculations.xls

 

[alfredeneuman]

Please read the original post. His home already has 200 amp service, but he was under the impression if he ran a 100 amp feed from his house to the garage, he'd have to upgrade his house to 300 amp service. That is very unlikely to be the case.

There is no such thing as a 300 amp service panel.

The sizes go directly from 200 to 400.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Some people confuse 400a (320a continuous) as being 300a because its 320a coninuous.

 

[GRivera]

James isnt paying attention.

His comments about his location add nothing to the thread or help the OP.



Here is a load calc sheet that mike holy made:

https://www.mikeholt.com/documents/calculations/formulas/ResidentialLoadCalculations.xls

Thank you!

 

[James-W]

I am not the one who isn't paying attention. I made my comment as to the cost of having the power company run a new service based upon where I live. I don't live where the opening poster does, so I can only go by the way it is here. I tried to answer his question as best as I could in post number 22. At that time he had not gotten word back from his local power company as to what the charge would be. It wasn't until post 29 when they finally got back to him.

Regardless of what the opening poster decides to do, I was answering his question which was;

"Does anyone know the approximate cost for either of these choices?"

I gave him the cost for my location, what the cost is for his location I have no idea, but check it out because it may be the same or quite similar. I tried to answer his question, how is that not paying attention?

 

[wyliesdiesels]

I am not the one who isn't paying attention. I made my comment as to the cost of having the power company run a new service based upon where I live. I don't live where the opening poster does, so I can only go by the way it is here. I tried to answer his question as best as I could in post number 22. At that time he had not gotten word back from his local power company as to what the charge would be. It wasn't until post 29 when they finally got back to him.

Regardless of what the opening poster decides to do, I was answering his question which was;

"Does anyone know the approximate cost for either of these choices?"

I gave him the cost for my location, what the cost is for his location I have no idea, but check it out because it may be the same or quite similar. I tried to answer his question, how is that not paying attention?

As has been said before, the cost to do so varies widely. Unless someone has the same PoCo as the OP, then there is no way to give an approximate price...just the reason why there is no point in these posts for any commenters except those that have the same PoCo

 

[coljar]

My PoCo told me the best thing I could do is have my house upgraded to 200amp. and split the power after the meter. If they ran a feed to another meter, it would be charge commercial rate.

 

[alfredeneuman]

Some people confuse 400a (320a continuous) as being 300a because its 320 coninuous.

Some people confuse 220 with 240 and 110 with 120 too.

It doesn't make it correct no matter how many times it's repeated

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Some people confuse 220 with 240 and 110 with 120 too.

It doesn't make it correct no matter how many times it's repeated

agreed

 

[DC73]

I figure I can either have Baltimore Gas and Electric (BGE) run a dedicated line and meter from transformer or I can upgrade my house panel to 300 amp and run a line out to a sub panel at detached garage.

If your existing meter is in a good location, you may have another option if your power company will go for it. Replace the existing meter base with a 320 Amp meter base. These bases have two sets of lugs. The existing house feed can occupy one set of lugs and your can connect your garage power to the second set.

I did this for my detached workshop and it worked out very well. Much better than a separate meter charge for the shop and I didn't have to do anything to the house panel.

DC

 

[GRivera]

If your existing meter is in a good location, you may have another option if your power company will go for it. Replace the existing meter base with a 320 Amp meter base. These bases have two sets of lugs. The existing house feed can occupy one set of lugs and your can connect your garage power to the second set.

I did this for my detached workshop and it worked out very well. Much better than a separate meter charge for the shop and I didn't have to do anything to the house panel.

DC

This would be great - I'll definitely follow up on this

 

[wyliesdiesels]

I didnt dig back through the thread but if this is via an overhead service drop you will have to replace the service entrance wire in the mast to support the increased service size and the mast if its not large enough for the new SE wire...

 

[GRivera]

I didnt dig back through the thread but if this is via an overhead service drop you will have to replace the service entrance wire in the mast to support the increased service size and the mast if its not large enough for the new SE wire...

It's underground wiring

 

[ticklechicken]

I just went through all this last week. I'm going with a completely separate supply for the shop. The monthly fee is $8, but the first 1000 kWh on each meter is $0.02/kWh cheaper. So if I use 400 kWh, I break even. If I use more, I save money. My shop will be air conditioned and also supply the camper and hot tub, so I should be over 400 most months.