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Defender Chassis is relocating

Defender Chassis

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Joined
Dec 7, 2007
Messages
1,129
Location
Williamstown, WV
I sold my old shop in town and am building a new one outside the city limits with better access to the interstate. I am documenting the project on my YouTube channel. The first video is a bit long winded because I waited until 42 days after I closed on the new property to start documenting. I am anticipating that updates will be weekly or better and be in the 3-10 minute range. I hope you enjoy following the project. Feel free to ask any questions you may have.

Regards,
Scott

Day 42 - Video #1
 
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firworks

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Joined
Jun 29, 2015
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4,079
Location
IL
You should post some pictures of your old shop that you are moving. I don't think you had a garage/shop thread for your old place?
 
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Defender Chassis

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Joined
Dec 7, 2007
Messages
1,129
Location
Williamstown, WV
Day 48 - Video #3
Excavation contractor is done.
Culvert is all in for this stage.
Hole for basement is filled.
Partial excavation for shop.
I sent out 6 requests for quotes on Friday (day 47). The spec is as follows:

• Building size to be 52’x60’x14’inside height
• Two finished openings for 12’x12’ overhead doors
o Doors to be furnished and installed by owner
o Header over each door to be a double 2x12 with appropriate spacer
• One steel man door 3’ x 6’8”
o Furnished and installed by contractor
o Door to be bored for both a handset and deadbolt
o Locks to be supplied and installed by owner
• Foundation to be poured concrete
o Wall and footer to be keyed (minimum 1.5’ x 3.5”)
o Foundation to terminate 4’ above finished floor
o Anchors for sill to be minimum ½”
o Anchors to be spaced no further than 4’
o Anchors to be no further than 12” from foundation ends and corners
• Floor to be smooth finished concrete
o 6” thick
o Wire reinforcement
• 2x4 Cross bracing at every corner
• Plumbing
o Owner to perform work
o Sewer and water lines to be installed after excavation is complete but before footer is poured
• Trusses
o Designed for 20psf load or better
o Owner to be given opportunity to review truss design
• 12” overhangs on all four sides
• 2x4 girts 24” OC
• 2x4 purlins 24” OC
• Siding to be commercially available painted metal, color to be selected by owner
• Roof to be commercially available painted metal, color to be selected by owner
o Barn wrap/condensation barrier to be installed under roofing
• Aluminum soffit and fascia, color to be selected by owner
• Gutters
o 6” Aluminum with hidden hangers every 4’
o Downspouts to be 3 per side (6 total) and extend to 6” above final grade
o Owner to supply drainage system beyond downspouts
• Excavation
o Partial excavation is already performed
o Additional excavation will have to be performed for footer and final grade
 
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Defender Chassis

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Dec 7, 2007
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Location
Williamstown, WV
Where is your shop and what type of chassis' do you build ? Just curious.

Defender Chassis is the name I have given my shop. My shop evolved out of my inability to find anyone in the Parkersburg, WV area to do racing related fabrication. My hobby is drag racing but I have done work on cars for many different types of racing. I recently completed a roll bar with dual swing out door bars in a 78 Camaro that will be autocrossed. I am currently working on the install of a foul link rear suspension for a 70 Camaro that will be a street car. I build headers and do header repairs. I do tinwork and random sheet metal fabrication. My current personal project is to build a complete tube chassis racecar that will compete in Super Gas. I have had the body for almost four years and am not very far along because of others that need me to do stuff for them. I am an engineer by trade. I have a couple ideas for products to support drag racers and am developing those ideas in the hopes that in my retirement years I will have a source of income that will surround the things I like to do. If you have any questions, feel free to ask.
Regards,
Scott
 

matt_i

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Mar 14, 2008
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10,724
Location
SE Michigan
Very cool! I would personally use doubled LVLs instead of doubled 2x12s for your overhead door structure.
 
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Defender Chassis

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Location
Williamstown, WV
Very cool! I would personally use doubled LVLs instead of doubled 2x12s for your overhead door structure.

That is not a bad idea at all. The only problem is that laminated veneer lumber is not common in my area so it would have to be special ordered. In addition, both overhead doors will be on the gable end so the headers really are not so much for structure but to prevent sagging. I think I will check in to it though and report back here what the additional cost would be. Thanks for the suggestion.
 
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Defender Chassis

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Thumper68

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Location
Duluth MN
working now, if you uploaded as private and then changed it afterwards it can take awhile for it to show up.
 

Bib Overalls

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Dec 4, 2006
Messages
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Location
Jonesboro, Arkansas
Been waiting for your video. In reference to the sleeves that you are passing under your footer and through the foundation. I did the same and found out, the hard way, that rain will push dirt into the sleeves and it will get hard before you know it. I recommend some sort of cap, just a board should work, at both ends of the sleeve before you back fill.

I also recommend a sleeve or an actual glued up water line starting to the left of the man door and ending to the right of the right garage door. That way you can run water to a hydrant on the right side of the apron. Good place to wash cars. You can put a hydrant on the left side as well but you will most likely discover that washing cars on that side will send some spray across the man door access.

You can use cistern water for your indoor plumbing as long as you don't drink it. In some places your sewer bill is based on how much water you use. You will need a back flow valve on your municipal water line.
 
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Defender Chassis

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Dec 7, 2007
Messages
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Location
Williamstown, WV
Been waiting for your video. In reference to the sleeves that you are passing under your footer and through the foundation. I did the same and found out, the hard way, that rain will push dirt into the sleeves and it will get hard before you know it. I recommend some sort of cap, just a board should work, at both ends of the sleeve before you back fill.

I also recommend a sleeve or an actual glued up water line starting to the left of the man door and ending to the right of the right garage door. That way you can run water to a hydrant on the right side of the apron. Good place to wash cars. You can put a hydrant on the left side as well but you will most likely discover that washing cars on that side will send some spray across the man door access.

You can use cistern water for your indoor plumbing as long as you don't drink it. In some places your sewer bill is based on how much water you use. You will need a back flow valve on your municipal water line.

Thanks for the advice, I like the idea of putting a water line under the floor to the far side of the building now before the floor is poured.
 
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Defender Chassis

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Williamstown, WV
New Shop Day 73 August 31 - Video #6

Update after the walls were poured. I have attached some still shots of the pumper and other equipment. I have also attached a couple shots of a building with the colors I am contemplating of emulating. Let me know what you think.
 

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Defender Chassis

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Day 75, the foundation contractor came back and partially backfilled the foundation. I did not think he would do so until later. I did not get the sleeve in for the water line to the far door so I will have to do some digging I guess.
 

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Defender Chassis

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Williamstown, WV
Day 100 September 27 Video 9 French Drain

I have been trying to get the French drain installed on the two sides that will be below grade. I also got the water line and sleeve installed along with the sleeve for the water line over to where the hose will be located. Thanks for watching.
 

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Defender Chassis

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Williamstown, WV
More pictures
 

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Defender Chassis

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Yesterday they came and backfilled the foundation.
 

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Defender Chassis

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The pics that are in the video if you do not want to watch.
 

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Defender Chassis

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Couple more
 

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Defender Chassis

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Here are a sample of the pictures in case you do not want to sit through the video.
 

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Bib Overalls

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Dec 4, 2006
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Location
Jonesboro, Arkansas
If it is not too late you might want to consider a "combo" meter base. They have 4 to 8 accessible circuit breaker positions in the base. This makes it easy to wire up a second building and also to add additional outdoor circuits. Talk to your electrician.
 
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Defender Chassis

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Williamstown, WV
New update: Day 201

The video covers utility installation, electrical rough-in and construction of the office/storage area.
 

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Defender Chassis

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Williamstown, WV
Additional images
 

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