Deflection Beam vs. Dial vs. Micrometer Torque Wrenches?

[ElectroPulse]

Hello, all,

I'm looking to get a reliable in/lb torque wrench. The immediate use case is valve cover bolts (90 in/lb), but would like something that will be reliable for future uses too. I've read that they can be useful on motorcycles (and, by extension, probably on dirt bikes, which I've got a project sitting in my garage waiting for the time to work on).

I've read people on here talking about not trusting micrometer/click type torque wrenches (particularly cheap ones) for low-torque applications (in this case, around 90 in/lbs).

My question: Would a higher-quality micrometer torque wrench be fairly reliable, or should I be looking for a different type? How do deflection Beam (not the click-type split beam) compare to dial as far as accuracy and reliability? I've read that deflection Beam doesn't need calibrated as long as it shows zero at rest and hasn't been dropped. I've read the same regarding dial torque wrenches, but also read the opposite about them.

For immediate availability (I would ideally like to get the job done this evening), I'm looking at either the Icon or a beam deflection TW from the auto parts store. If dial is truly better for some reason, then I'll need to order in something like a Precision Instruments, it looks like.

Thank you

EDIT: Actually just found my Tekton in/lb torque wrench... had been searching for it and gave up on it. Still want to see what's recommended and order one in if dial or deflection beam are preferred, but will have this on hand for this job and future ones in tight spaces.

 

[Firebrick43]

Deflection beam is the most durable but one of worse when it comes to consistency as the operator must look at it straight on every time which can be difficult in some places.

A dial type is more consistent and has a needle that can be inspected after you remove the wrench to see the torque applied if you remember to reset it.

 

[ElectroPulse]

Deflection beam is the most durable but one of worse when it comes to consistency as the operator must look at it straight on every time which can be difficult in some places.

A dial type is more consistent and has a needle that can be inspected after you remove the wrench to see the torque applied if you remember to reset it.

Thank you - that's a good point about operator error from viewing and. Does dial type not need calibrating either, or is that only a benefit of deflection beam?

 

[Chrome Vanadium Cody]

Some deflecting beam style ones also have a sliding arrow on the scale you can inspect afterwards which is nice. I’ve seen this on Sturtevant Richmont. I agree though, visibility is a big issue with these and being able to check your result afterwards isn’t as good as feeling a click that tells you when to stop.

 

[terrific]

My brother was using a click-style torque driver to tighten screws in a piece of acrylic -- something really low like 8 in.lbs. It cracked multiple times when he reached the torque level required. We think the click might have caused a small impact in the piece.

I wanted to get one of these goofy looking things: https://torqwrench.com/products/drivers/dial-indicating-drivers/, but they're not sold elsewhere and they're very expensive directly from the manufacturer. You might have to keep spinning your head around to keep an eye on the dial, too.

Why doesn't anyone make a digital torque gauge for really low torques?

 

[Chrome Vanadium Cody]

I hadn’t thought of that but it makes sense. The one recurring task I have that needs that low of torque is installing safety disconnects on high voltage wires. I use a shop supplied one of these: https://www.protorquetools.com/1-4-dr-6-30-in-lbs-7-35-cm-kg-proto-dial-torque-wrench-j6168f/

You’re right about still needing a line of sight but as long as you can see it it works well. It has a good level of physical feedback and never feels like you risk speeding past the number you’re aiming for.

 

[Firebrick43]

Thank you - that's a good point about operator error from viewing and. Does dial type not need calibrating either, or is that only a benefit of deflection beam?

Dial torque wrenches are basically a beam torque wrench, the pointer just actuates the dial instead of go across the scale. I would say its better because the beam is enclosed which protects the beam from being damaged.

At the engine plant I worked at for 16 years they had 1000's of torque wrenches and DC torque tools of all kinds depending on what was being assembled. They had enough that one of my coworkers full time job was to go around the plant with a special cart with a torque load cell and certify/calibrate the torque wrenches. Click type did require semi frequent adjustment but the dial type and split beams rarely did. I don't remember ever having a dial type not pass?

 

[leadsled]

A dial type can be used to measure rotating break away torque on a bearing.

 

[dnschmidt]

All have different uses:

Deflecting Beam: Nothing better for tightening lug nuts
Dial: Needed to set bearing pre-load.
Micrometer: engine repair

Or get a digital of the right capacity and it can do at least two out of the three as you can watch the torque building during the pull.

 

[charbar]

Automotive tech here and I use a micrometer/click type 95% of the time. Getting a beam or dial type torque wrench in tight areas is a challenge and then being able to see the scale on them is even harder. With a click type you can just feel your way though the whole torquing process.

Only time I pull out my beam or dial type is for checking rotating torque.

 

[Steve_P]

I have an inch pound beam wrench I only use for setting up pinion bearings- that's why I bought it. I cannot remember the last time I saw a beam wrench used in other than a similar type application of measuring rotating torque- certainly not at a tire shop, in industry, etc. Everything else I own is click micrometer type, mostly CDI.

 

[isb cornbinder]

Hello, all,

I'm looking to get a reliable in/lb torque wrench. The immediate use case is valve cover bolts (90 in/lb), but would like something that will be reliable for future uses too. I've read that they can be useful on motorcycles (and, by extension, probably on dirt bikes, which I've got a project sitting in my garage waiting for the time to work on).

I've read people on here talking about not trusting micrometer/click type torque wrenches (particularly cheap ones) for low-torque applications (in this case, around 90 in/lbs).

My question: Would a higher-quality micrometer torque wrench be fairly reliable, or should I be looking for a different type? How do deflection Beam (not the click-type split beam) compare to dial as far as accuracy and reliability? I've read that deflection Beam doesn't need calibrated as long as it shows zero at rest and hasn't been dropped. I've read the same regarding dial torque wrenches, but also read the opposite about them.

For immediate availability (I would ideally like to get the job done this evening), I'm looking at either the Icon or a beam deflection TW from the auto parts store. If dial is truly better for some reason, then I'll need to order in something like a Precision Instruments, it looks like.

Thank you

EDIT: Actually just found my Tekton in/lb torque wrench... had been searching for it and gave up on it. Still want to see what's recommended and order one in if dial or deflection beam are preferred, but will have this on hand for this job and future ones in tight spaces.

All torque wrenches have some shape of deflection spring in the design. Some click, others have a sealed dial and the most common have a graduated face with a pointer. I have torque screwdrivers and 1/4" drive inch-pound units. I have TW up to 3/4" drive and a bunch of 1/2" and 3/8".
It may be difficult to buy a really terrible torque wrench that is more than 10% out of correct. My employer had/has a torque wrench certified test station. I checked every torque wrench I bought and all never varied more than a pound.
Always return the wrench to zero after use.. You will know which wrench needs this.
If you have some build-it skills, you can make a simple machine that puts pressure on a scale. I will not be looking, but there must something on You Tube.
The torque wrench in the right side of the first picture is a few months away from 100 years old. The company is still in business. This TW was made for Pratt and Whitney radial engine shop. I called the builder of the torque wrench and gave them the serial number. The person I talked with wondered how the tool raveled so far and landed in a swap-meet, In Cloverdale, British Columbia, where my wife found it and bought it for me. My favorite torque wrench of the lot came from the same swap meet. I remains in the original box and wrap and it has never bee used. It was made In New Zealand.

 

[Packard V8]

FWIW, the digital adapter from HF has been dead nuts every time I've checked it.

Another FWIW, old beam 1/2"-drive torque wrenches can be found at garage sales/flea markets for $1. I buy them, add a 6" extension and the appropriate socket and keep them in all my rigs. Works wonderfully well for roadside tire changes.

jack vines

 

[Wamsutta]

A beam and dial both require you to have eyesight on the scale while in use.

 

[HannibalLecter]

For engine building I'd say the best would be an electronic one because of the accuracy and the ability to measure angle. Also, if space isn't prohibiting it, a torque adapter may as well fit the bill.
Next suggestion would be a stahlwille splitting beam torque wrench

 

[roofdweller49]

All have different uses:

Deflecting Beam: Nothing better for tightening lug nuts
Dial: Needed to set bearing pre-load.
Micrometer: engine repair

Or get a digital of the right capacity and it can do at least two out of the three as you can watch the torque building during the pull.

What are you favorite affordable dial/deflecting beam torque wrenches? Or is it just cheaper to get a digital?

 

[dnschmidt]

What are you favorite affordable dial/deflecting beam torque wrenches? Or is it just cheaper to get a digital?

My choice is digital for two reasons 1) The Harbor Freight Quinn includes torque angle which on modern cars has become very common. Wait for the 20% off coupon and the price will be very right. 2) They have very broad ranges compared to clickers and dial types. Deflecting beams are artifacts of a previous age. You'll hear lots of comments like "My Daddy used deflecting beam on his 55 Chevy and it was good enough for him." But as the Rolling Stones pointed out "Time Waits for No One." Dials cost way more than digitals and can't do torque angle. Dials are nice for bearing preload but they are a one trick pony. Everybody wants one size fits all and that simply doesn't exist.

 

[roofdweller49]

Thanks, why is dial preferred for preload, btw?

 

[dnschmidt]

Thanks, why is dial preferred for preload, btw?

Because you can watch the torque build in real time. You have no idea as to where you are with a clicker until it clicks. With a dial it's like an analog scale where you can watch the weight wheel spin up as you more aggressively step on the scale. For bearing pre-load (differentials are a good example) you can't beat a dial. But that's basically all that they do. A low value (say 30N-m) digital displays the building torque as well but is also great for valve covers and other low torque fasteners.

This is an example of a low torque digital. It doesn't do angle but it doesn't have to:

Eclatorq Technology