Someone is selling this 1987 Delta bandsaw but they know nothing about it, looks to be in good shape from the pictures but I haven’t checked it out as I know nothing about them. Doesn’t look like they have the fence and they’re asking $450. Is that too steep? What questions should I ask? Owner said they purchased from a client a year ago so they don’t seem to know a lot. Thanks
Delta Bandsaw 28-203
- Thread starter Jolie4
- Start date
decent saw but not a heavy duty tool . it has the riser block in it to enable resawing wider boards which makes the saw more flimsy , so it may or may not be an asset . no idea on value, but it does seem a tad high, but I am no way in tune with the market .
also your area would have an impact on value too
also your area would have an impact on value too
WillyBoy
Well-known member
It looks a lot like mine, bought new in 1983. Six months later I bought the riser block kit. Mine works fine.
I've never used a blade wider than 1/2 inch. Bending a 3/4 inch wide blade over 14 inch diameter wheels can be done but it doesn't make the machine any better. I've used mine for resawing and roughing bowl blanks for turning. I've never found the saw to be flimsier due to the riser block unless it's installed wrong. I don't remember the last time I used the fence.
I've never used a blade wider than 1/2 inch. Bending a 3/4 inch wide blade over 14 inch diameter wheels can be done but it doesn't make the machine any better. I've used mine for resawing and roughing bowl blanks for turning. I've never found the saw to be flimsier due to the riser block unless it's installed wrong. I don't remember the last time I used the fence.
Those older Deltas are good saws. They are pretty much the standard 14” saw, at least when Delta was a good brand. It looks pretty clean. WB is correct on the blade selection. Can you run a 3/4” blade? Yes, IF you can tension it properly. I have a Laguna 14 BX and do my re-sawing with a 1/2 Woodmiser blade from Highland Hdwr. I will be upgrading to a carbide blade, but they are pricey. If that saw is clean and not abused I think $450 is a fair price for it.
aquinob
Well-known member
It's a good saw for what it is. That one has the sheet metal base which was an upgrade over the open stand. For me, 450 is an ok price, probably what I would try to sell it for, not what I would buy it for. Check the condition of the tires and make sure it runs smooth enough. Lots of people will sell something like a bandsaw but have no idea of how to tune it so it tracks well. Keep that in mind when you look at it. It probably came from a school or some factory with the number on the top. Good Luck.
Nick Rivers
Well-known member
Make sure machine is unplugged. Open or remove the cover. Loosen the vertical guide bar holding the blade guides and see if it slides up and down without binding.
Besides the tires aquinob mentions, check the bearing behind the blade for smooth rotation and have a look at the other blade bearing under the table, plus the condition of the guide blocks. Were the blocks properly adjusted by the prior owner? They should be very close to the blade but behind the blade teeth. Look for any burrs, scoring or damage of the components under the table that can be used to negotiate the price. Look at the condition of the drive belt, belt alignment and pulleys. Take note of the currently set blade tension by deflecting the blade. Pull the blade and spin the top wheel to check for the bearing condition. Reinstall the blade, set the tension, plug in and run the saw. Look for vibration, drive belt operation, and any wobble of the pulleys. Put a coin flat on the table away from the blade to see if it moves around while the saw is running.
Any extra blades included?
Cast iron table is a plus.
Included task light is a plus.
Enclosed base is a plus.
Sheet metal covers instead of cast can be a minor negotiation point.
I'd offer $375 and settle on $400. Your location (not stated) will affect pricing. May want to watch a video of bandsaw operation/adjustment.
Besides the tires aquinob mentions, check the bearing behind the blade for smooth rotation and have a look at the other blade bearing under the table, plus the condition of the guide blocks. Were the blocks properly adjusted by the prior owner? They should be very close to the blade but behind the blade teeth. Look for any burrs, scoring or damage of the components under the table that can be used to negotiate the price. Look at the condition of the drive belt, belt alignment and pulleys. Take note of the currently set blade tension by deflecting the blade. Pull the blade and spin the top wheel to check for the bearing condition. Reinstall the blade, set the tension, plug in and run the saw. Look for vibration, drive belt operation, and any wobble of the pulleys. Put a coin flat on the table away from the blade to see if it moves around while the saw is running.
Any extra blades included?
Cast iron table is a plus.
Included task light is a plus.
Enclosed base is a plus.
Sheet metal covers instead of cast can be a minor negotiation point.
I'd offer $375 and settle on $400. Your location (not stated) will affect pricing. May want to watch a video of bandsaw operation/adjustment.
Thanks for all the info, planned on offering less even with out looking at it but will for sure have to watch some videos to learn how to do all of that. It’s been posted for a bit so hopefully here is a little negotiation.
Codyboy
Well-known member
Solid advice.
Looks exactly like my 14" Jet i bought new around 1990 91.
Mine didn't come with a fence or miter gauge
The only issue I've had with mine was the adjuster to tension the blade. The cheap pot metal or whatever it is cracked.
Check it real good for cracks.
Attachments
My Old Tools
Well-known member
It has the fence guide bars so it may have a fence. Unlike a table saw, a fence on a bandsaw is seldom parallel to the blade. It gets adjusted to how the blade cuts. Given that, any straight piece of wood clamped to the table makes a decent fence.
The riser block along sells for around $400 and that is for a generic 6'' riser block kit re-machined to fit the Delta 14" bandsaw.
I would think if you don't ever see the need for the extra height you could sell a original Delta riser block for most of what the saw would cost you.
If you want the extra 6" that's a good deal and a good saw
Kevin
I would think if you don't ever see the need for the extra height you could sell a original Delta riser block for most of what the saw would cost you.
If you want the extra 6" that's a good deal and a good saw
Kevin
csp
Well-known member
I bought a 28-303 a few weeks ago at an estate sale for $100. This is the one with the two speed gearbox for cutting either wood or metal.