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Delta dp350 Chuck Removal Wedges what size?

jeff lary

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I had this in Free Parking but it may get more interest here?

Hi all I have a drill press question. My chuck is gritty sticky and almost non functional I kept the Chuck submerged in a jar of CRC for the last 2 months but it is still very rough. Sometimes one of the three jaws extends way further out of the chuck than the other 2,... its time for a new Chuck.
According to the photo in my owners manual the chuck should come off the tapered shaft it does not however tell you how. I am assuming by using steel wedges. I tried a brass punch but cannot hit the needed area and the chuck it self started to come apart the part you turn with the chuck key started to separate from the rest of the chuck, so I stopped and tapped it back up into place.
I went to uncle Google and did some reading seems I have a Morse Taper / Chuck situation here. I can go to Amazon and I see three styles of wedges No. 2 ,3, and 6 wedges but I don't know which wedges I will need does anyone here know. This is a Delta 12" Variable Speed Drill Press bench to version Model DP350. Thanks for your time ,Jeff
 
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bmw57isetta

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Jeff:

What brand is the chuck? Those wedge numbers sound like they're for a Jacobs. For what it's worth, your description of only one of the jaws hanging out suggests the chuck was disassembled at one time and the jaws weren't put back in the correct order. That or it's been badly abused. Or both.

You have two issues here: 1.) removing the chuck and 2.) disassembling the chuck. Those wedges should do the job in removing it once you've got the correct ones. Read on for disassembly.

If it's a Jacobs you want the outer sleeve to slide down as you described. Once off, you'll see the split nut at the top along with the three jaws. Make sure the jaws are fully retracted before you remove the outer sleeve. A hydraulic press makes quick work of it. A shot of lubricant like Gibbs, WD-40, Kroil, etc. will be a big help.

If your chuck is a Supreme brand, the game changes and none of the above applies. Please let us know what you have there when you get a chance.
 
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jeff lary

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I will get a photo tomorrow but according to the book photo the chuck comes down off the taper. I am hoping to just buy a new chuck it has never worked right since new. I have not harmed it in any way it just does not work as it was designed to. I should have bought a Jet or Grizzle but back when I bought this I thought Delta was the answer. However this is no "original " delta it was made after one of the numerous by outs. It was new to me as in brand new in maybe 1995 or so. This is my owners manual and the photos I am referring to. This is not a threaded chuck I don't believe I think if I can get a couple wedges in there I could maybe get it to come apart.
 

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jeff lary

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Nope not drifts, the quill does not have a "drift tool slot" what I am talking about are wedges. They look like 2 very small ball joint forks without the handle. You put one on at 9:00 and one at 3:00 then use a "C" clamp to press them towards each other till the Chuck pops off.
 

Davefr

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Just measure the O.D. of the Jacobs taper where it enters the chuck. Then go to a Jacobs Taper chart and look up the # of the taper and order that size wedge set.

Hint when you're compressing the two wedges to remove the chuck give the side of the chuck a tap. The achilles heel of taper fits is lateral shock. Use that to your advantage when removing the chuck.

http://www.davehylands.com/Machinist/Charts/Jacobs-Taper-Chart.png
 
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jeff lary

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here are the photos BMW57 ISETTA asked for. I watched a few you tube videos on removal and in one they said to try a brass or aluminum punch to drive off the chuck. The only portion of the chuck I can get the brass punch to is the outer knurled / widest part of the chuck. When I struck it that portion of the chuck began to slide down off the remainder of the chuck so I stopped that and tapped that part back on to the chuck.

I will get out the caliper and measure the taper where it enters the chuck. In the mean time this is what I am dealing with.

Yes I have heard about the pulley issue I guess mine is ok as in it still works but I know of that problem. My plan is to take the chuck off and toss it, buy new and reinstall if that is possible?
 

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jeff lary

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Just measure the O.D. of the Jacobs taper where it enters the chuck. Then go to a Jacobs Taper chart and look up the # of the taper and order that size wedge set.

Hint when you're compressing the two wedges to remove the chuck give the side of the chuck a tap. The achilles heel of taper fits is lateral shock. Use that to your advantage when removing the chuck.

http://www.davehylands.com/Machinist/Charts/Jacobs-Taper-Chart.png

Dave:
That chart is for smart people of which I am not. My taper when measured close to the top of the chuck,... the point at which it disappears into the chuck measures .618 in ( in mm it is 15.70mm) Could you tell me which wedge set I need. I just spun the chuck open then closed and again one of the 3 jaws hangs about 3/16 inch lower than the other two. It looks to me like it would have to be a number 1 taper. If I am correct in assuming I need to find a matching inch measurement closest to and slightly larger than .618 and the closest I can find is 06563 am I right??? hope so but I will wait for you to respond.
 
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jeff lary

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I just ordered them,.. they are some of the ones I looked at last night. The measurement I took and trying to match that up to the posted chart that Dave added, I didn't know which wedge number I needed. Thanks for the help now,... if I get the chuck off how / where to I find a replacement one. Cause I am done messing with this one.
 

Whitworth

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# 6 Jacobs wedge for the #33 chuck

Jacobs number system is kind of weird.
 
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Davefr

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Sorry that chart I linked failed to show the major diameter. Here's a better link:
https://www.practicalmachinist.com/...s-taper-chuck-runout-question-jacobstaper.jpg

I agree with Lee. Wedges for a 33JT chuck are what I'd order.

Ebay usually has a ton of used Jacobs chucks fairly cheap. Or try a wanted add here or at owwm.org. I'd look for one of the older ones made in Hartrford. Make sure the jaws look good.
 
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jeff lary

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Thanks to everybody that responded, when I get ready to buy a new Chuck if you guys don't mind I will be back here again. I just need a chuck that will except at least up to 1/2 drill shank. It would also be great if the chuck I buy would be re-useable on a different press if I ever have to buy one. Thanks once more, Jeff
 

dr_clyde

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Thanks to everybody that responded, when I get ready to buy a new Chuck if you guys don't mind I will be back here again. I just need a chuck that will except at least up to 1/2 drill shank. It would also be great if the chuck I buy would be re-useable on a different press if I ever have to buy one. Thanks once more, Jeff

USA Jacobs Superchuck. End of story, full stop.
 

LeeG

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Last year on Black Friday I used my Zoro discount for an Albrecht keyless chuck. It has been great. If you go with Jacobs, check eBay for a new old stock USA made one
 
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jeff lary

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The Super chuck seems to be over $250.00 and the Albrecht Keyless is from $50.00 something to over $200.00. I am thinking between 50 and 100 I think I paid like $250 for the press but I may be wrong it was a long time ago.
There is a store up in Bangor called N.H. Bragg and they may have what I need when the time comes or I may go online. The two chucks mentioned seem to have the taper attached to the chuck,...mine is not out yet but according to the photo in my manual it looks like my chuck is just the chuck without the tapered shaft attached to it when it is removed from the press. Check out the manual photo on the right in post number 3.
 

Davefr

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The Super chuck seems to be over $250.00 and the Albrecht Keyless is from $50.00 something to over $200.00. I am thinking between 50 and 100 I think I paid like $250 for the press but I may be wrong it was a long time ago.


Putting a very expensive Superchuck or Albrecht on that machine is kind of like putting lipstick on a pig IMHO. (sorry!) I'm not sure the 14N 1/2" Superchuck even comes with a JT33 socket.

Here you go. A NOS Jacobs 34-33 with JT33 taper for $40 OBO. I'd offer him $30 since has 10 but has only sold 1.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-JACOBS...770362?hash=item1cdef656fa:g:L-wAAOSwbl9d6GNR

I'm not sure but it might even be a made in Hartford chuck. Even if it isn't, it should serve you well.
 
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jeff lary

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That sounds great but I don't use or know how to use Pay Pal. I use Credit Cards on line all the time I don't suppose a credit card to an individual on e-bay is a good idea ha ha. A friend of mine uses pay pal though maybe I will ask him to buy it for me.
I just went to look at it there is no key with it can I buy one anywhere just say," I need a key for a Jacobs chuck?"
 
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Kevin54

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jeff lary doesn't need a drift, he needs a set of wedges. They are square with a "U" slot cut into them and are tapered. It takes 2 wedges, one for each side to build up the space between the chuck and the quill.

iu


iu


Jeff....,do you have a pickle fork. If so, that may work for you. As far as a key for the chuck sometimes it's a hit or miss depending on the manufacturer of the key. Best bet is take the chuck to the hardware store with you to get the correct size. If you have one jaw that is coming out further than the other two, either it was put together wrong by someone, or you broke a tooth on the jaw and now they are out of time. Jacobs sells rebuild kits for their chucks. Comes with two half nuts, and three new jaws. If you have something else other than a Jacobs, it may be kind of hard to find a rebuild kit for it.

BTW.....if you have a pickle fork and it fits, run the quill back up into the head, insert the pickle fork and hit it with a hammer. Don't try to pry the chuck off. You have to shock it off.
 
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jeff lary

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Thanks Kevin I have no idea what a pickle fork is,.. canned me a lot of pickles too. If you mean a ball joint separation tool/ fork no I do not.
I just made an account on e-bay and offered him $30.00 if he accepts I will offer him $20..... is that how it works?
Ha ha I will buy it and take it to match up a key when I get it.
 
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jeff lary

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Thank you Dave and else everyone
I offered $30 he countered with $35 and I bought it pretty easy. Before I install it I will take it with me to get the correct Key if mine does not fit.
 
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jeff lary

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I got the Jacobs wedges in the mail today, I will wait till I get the new Jacobs chuck I think it is supposed to be here on the 23rd then I will try removing the old and installing the new. Just wanted to make an update sometimes after people help someone you never find out what happed.
 
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jeff lary

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Just an up-date I just changed out the old chuck for the new Jacobs. The old chuck has no brand name that I can see, one of the jaws have 5-6 broken teeth on it so no wonder it would not open or close right. Now I need a key I have ordered on from Amazon a moment ago. Thanks for all the help merry Christmas, Jeff
 
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