Delta Rockwell Unisaw unknown model
- Thread starter ericols
- Start date
Gizmosity
Well-known member
Looks like a 34-761 Unisaw to me. While I'm not fully versed in all things Delta/Rockwell, all the 12"-14" saws I've been in contact with are labeled as "Tilting Arbor Saws".
Around here I see them come and go looking like that one (missing front cover, Jetlock fence, maybe 3 phase motor) for $350-$500. If there werent any broken castings or missing parts and all it needed was a motor (those aren't cheap) my eyebrows start to twitch in the $300 range.
Around here I see them come and go looking like that one (missing front cover, Jetlock fence, maybe 3 phase motor) for $350-$500. If there werent any broken castings or missing parts and all it needed was a motor (those aren't cheap) my eyebrows start to twitch in the $300 range.
Packard V8
Well-known member
Since it has an ID number, it most likely came from a school or factory. That might mean it has a 3-phase motor. Unisaw motors are very expensive to replace.
jack vines
jack vines
new replacement motors are around $400...about the price of a used Unisaw, so unless you get it for like $50 it's not really worth it. there really isn't a market for used motors, you'd need to buy another saw.
not sure where you read it is not expensive to switch from 3 phase to single, but that is incorrect. it can be cheaper to go with a rotary phase converter if you wanted, but I wouldn't say it is cheap...
the only thing that saw has going for it is both cast iron wings. usually you only see one. the fence is junk, so you'll be into it for several hundred replacing it with something better...
not sure where you read it is not expensive to switch from 3 phase to single, but that is incorrect. it can be cheaper to go with a rotary phase converter if you wanted, but I wouldn't say it is cheap...
the only thing that saw has going for it is both cast iron wings. usually you only see one. the fence is junk, so you'll be into it for several hundred replacing it with something better...
My Old Tools
Well-known member
Uinsaws are all tilting arbor saws. They are all 10". If it is 3 phase you can put a VFD on it for $200 or so. With a Jetlock fence it is worth about $600 running. Not running I would try to get it around $300, but I doubt it will go that cheap at auction. It does have both side cast iron wings. Just look at the motor for a capacitor hump. A hump means single phase, no hump will be 3 phase. 4 pins in the plug will usually mean 3 phase but you never know for sure. A good Biesemeyer fence will run you $250-300 used.
My Old Tools
Well-known member
I would be more interested in the Oliver lathe behind it and the 17" vintage Delta drill press beside it. I'm not sure what the pattern maker's lathe is in the back left but it could be Yates or Oliver as well.
I wish I could find a good deal on a cabinet saw in central NY. Online, it looks like the best deals are on the west coast or southeast. The one I posted above is now up to almost $300. With the cost to transport it, change the electric, and fix whatever is wrong with it, it no longer makes sense. Any suggestions on where to find one outside of Ebay and craigslist?
If I can't find anything, my plan is to buy a Grizzly G0715P - for basically $1000 with shipping: http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-Hybrid-Table-Saw-with-Riving-Knife-Polar-Bear-Series/G0715P
Thanks again for everyone's input. What do people think of that Grizzly model?
If I can't find anything, my plan is to buy a Grizzly G0715P - for basically $1000 with shipping: http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-Hybrid-Table-Saw-with-Riving-Knife-Polar-Bear-Series/G0715P
Thanks again for everyone's input. What do people think of that Grizzly model?
Roberts210
Well-known member
Confusion arises because Delta/Rockwell made several saws they labeled a "Tilting Arbor Saw". I owned a 10" Rockwell T.A.S. from '86 to 2008 when I replaced it with a Unisaw. As has been stated, ALL Unisaws are 10".
bubinga
Well-known member
l jumped ahead, But Probably been brought up, But I didn't know there was a 12" Uni.
But If your in the market for a wood lathe, I would bid on the Oliver, if you can get
it reasonable.
I have one, may be 3 phase. Just get a VFD.
Or the motor can probably be switched out to a standard 56 frame, with a 5/8" shaft.
But If your in the market for a wood lathe, I would bid on the Oliver, if you can get
it reasonable.
I have one, may be 3 phase. Just get a VFD.
Or the motor can probably be switched out to a standard 56 frame, with a 5/8" shaft.
bubinga
Well-known member
might be 3 phase, and they have no way to power it up too.
Roberts210
Well-known member
Call around to every cabinet shop in your area within a 50 mile (or bigger) radius. Ask if they have any old table saws they don't need anymore. Sometimes a shop will not take the time to fix a broken saw, they'll just sideline it in a corner of the shop or shove it out the back door and then buy a new one because production is more important to them.
Also, ask at all the lumber companies. Ask the counter guys if they know anyone who has table saw they need to get rid of.
bubinga
Well-known member
sounds like good advise My Old tools, (well not MY old tools,..........sorry) gave you.
"Old tools," do you figure it would be a 3 HP or a 5 HP, or would $200.00
pretty well cover it for a 3 or 5?
I guess I was lucky, I got mine 1947 as a plug and play, for $569.00, restored. It has a 1 HP "Bullet" (is that the correct term?) repulsion/induction.
It cuts pretty well, but to be honest, on say 3" stock, it could stand a little more power.
I did upgrade to a Bies fence.
ez-duzit
Well-known member
Be patient and wait to find a quality machine in good condition. Increase your c/l shopping radius. Be prepared to jump on a good deal. And quit bottom feeding on broken machines you don't know how to repair.
bubinga
Well-known member
All You can do buddy it keep checking craigs list, and the local "Green Tab"- "Nifty Nickle" type of paper.
Try to jump on it early, read the CL early, or do a search, and save it, with-in the areas you're willing to drive.
Take the day off if you can, so You get it.
Last edited:
ez-duzit
Well-known member
Not that this one issue is a deal breaker, but here's the type of silly **** you'll have to deal with. Look at how the electrical cable is just stretched across space, between the magnetic switch and the cabinet. If they can get small stuff like this so wrong, what else will you expect?
txlonghorn1989
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2017
- Messages
- 2,786
Not that this one issue is a deal breaker, but here's the type of silly **** you'll have to deal with. Look at how the electrical cable is just stretched across space, between the magnetic switch and the cabinet. If they can get small stuff like this so wrong, what else will you expect?
That's a horrible design.
txlonghorn1989
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2017
- Messages
- 2,786
Get an old American made table saw - Delta, Powermatic, Tannewitz, many other brands. They're solidly built. If they break (hint, they probably won't) you'll be able to fix it. They made simply and elegantly with quality steel and cast iron. Parts are readily available still and there's lots of people to help you if you have problems. Check out VintageMachines.com and OWWM.com. They are related sites. Both have classifieds where you can look for machinery or post your own WTB (WantToBuy) ad. You won't regret it.
FYI, there are lots of machines available in the NE. Patience is your friend. It'll happen. Good luck in your search.
FYI, there are lots of machines available in the NE. Patience is your friend. It'll happen. Good luck in your search.
Last edited:
Roberts210
Well-known member
And Chinese **** made by 3rd world slaves for their P.L.A. masters.
bubinga
Well-known member
With due respect, Why is he a "Bottom feeder"
and how do you know he don't know how to fix it,
Or couldn't learn to fix it?
Perhaps he don't have ~$2,000.00 for a new Uni.
I have the grizzly 1023 left tilt. Least I think that is the number.
Nice saw. 3hp, 220v. Plenty of power. Never had a problem with it.
Upgraded to the 6ft Biesmeyer style fence.
Once I had it all dialed in, I was able stand a nickel on edge on the cast top with the saw running and it not fall over. Very smooth running saw. Is there any value in this test? Don't know. Got the idea from a forum to test the vibration of the unit and the cast iron top.
Just a hobbiest so not sure how it would hold up in a shop. I have seen grizzly products in pro cabinet shops that I have been to, but the big guys aren't using this caliber of a tool.
I have no problem with old American iron if you can find it, but most stuff comes from somewhere else these days.
Not to change your mind, but what is your use case?
For me it was cabinetry and furniture as a hobby. But as I get older I think I would rather bring the saw to the material than man handle the material on the fixed saw. I have been looking at going with a track saw like festoon, or makita to break down the sheet goods or large lumber then move to smaller tools for final sizing. Haven't made up my mind.
Nice saw. 3hp, 220v. Plenty of power. Never had a problem with it.
Upgraded to the 6ft Biesmeyer style fence.
Once I had it all dialed in, I was able stand a nickel on edge on the cast top with the saw running and it not fall over. Very smooth running saw. Is there any value in this test? Don't know. Got the idea from a forum to test the vibration of the unit and the cast iron top.
Just a hobbiest so not sure how it would hold up in a shop. I have seen grizzly products in pro cabinet shops that I have been to, but the big guys aren't using this caliber of a tool.
I have no problem with old American iron if you can find it, but most stuff comes from somewhere else these days.
Not to change your mind, but what is your use case?
For me it was cabinetry and furniture as a hobby. But as I get older I think I would rather bring the saw to the material than man handle the material on the fixed saw. I have been looking at going with a track saw like festoon, or makita to break down the sheet goods or large lumber then move to smaller tools for final sizing. Haven't made up my mind.
05r50 - My woodshop burned down in October and I'm trying to get back to having a usable shop in another, older barn on our property. I have a long way to go with preparing the barn and restocking tools.... Hoping to do woodworking in retirement - in 5-10 years.
Thanks to everyone for your input (well, nearly everyone).
Thanks to everyone for your input (well, nearly everyone).
Roberts210
Well-known member
My heart goes out to you. Having to deal with the aftermath of a fire is a terrible thing.
How did the fire start? Do they know?
How did the fire start? Do they know?
It was inconclusive - investigator thought it was electrical but I'm pretty sure it was my fault - burning up scraps in the wood stove.
bubinga
Well-known member
I have heard when they don't know, they blame electrical.
Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk
My Old Tools
Well-known member
It could be like the Powermatic 66 I bought for $300. It would spin up but it took a long time and had little power. When I got it home I took the 110v plug off and put on a 220v plug. That 3hp motor was 220v only, not switchable.
bubinga
Well-known member
Yeah, I have heard of that.
Oh, you mean MY saw?
No, it's 220 only also, and is wired accordingly.
Thank You
bubinga
Well-known member
Yeah, have to move on, be careful.
It happens. We get over confident.
hindsight IS 20/20
Yes, but the main distinction between the Unisaw and the 10" Tilting Arbor Saw is the belt(s). The Unisaw has 3 belts, while AFAIK the TAS has only a single belt.
Roberts210
Well-known member
I've owned both a Rockwell 10" T.A.S. and a Unisaw. There are a LOT more differences than just the 3 belts. Much heavier construction in the Unisaw, bigger, better motor, you get a cabinet with the Uni, the motor on the T.A.S. is mounted behind the table and takes a long belt which "whips" and adds to the vibration, while the Unisaw takes short belts. Tilt and R/L mechanisms are stouter on the Unisaws, etc. etc.
I think you might be comparing the Unisaw to a Contractor Saw. I was referring to the Delta 10 Tilting Arbor Saw which looks alot like a Unisaw (full cabinet, internal motor), but employs a smaller motor assembly with a single belt drive.
Attachments
Lemme guess that you have never been to China and seen for yourself what Chinese factories look like? I'm betting you read some mil-blog that features the prison labor in China, but never did the math. Yes, some Chinese companies use prison labor for their manufacturing----much like in the US. But even though China is nearly 4x the population of the US, we still have more of our citizens incarcerated. So our proportion of "slaves" per capita is actually higher than in China. Our slaves sew the uniforms for McDonalds and undergarments for Victoria Secret, staff the call centers for AT&T, and clean up the oil spills for BP. It's not all ****, and I suspect that the Apple products made by "China slaves" are not all that bad as well.