Delta/Rockwell/Walker-Turner DP220 Salvaging

[dayid]

So my wife's grandfather passed away a few years ago, and recently while going through one of his barns my brother-in-law and I came across this drill press. It hasn't been abused as much as just forgotten.

Today we brought it back to my house so that I can try and salvage it back into something useful. I don't plan (at this point) to do a restoration (with fresh paint, etc), rather just general maintenance/clean-up to get it going again.

I tested the chuck by hand by turning the top wheel and it seems to keep a bit straight. One uncle mentioned they thought the chuck was bent and it would not drill straight - hence why it was forgotten so long ago.

[click on any image for a larger version]

The drill press:


The belt-guard/crown with Delta Milwaukee barely visible:


The Walker-Turner motor:


Rockwell's Badge:


The wiring as/was. This is where trouble starts.


My understanding is that the motor can be wired to 220 or 120, and that this is why only one set of the wires has a plug on it (you can see the other one masking-taped off.

This is where I'm at right now, with most of the maintenance-parts removed and laid out:


The motor wires are all cloth-wrapped, and any colour that did once exist there is no longer present. There are six wires coming from it. They were wrapped in sets of three. So here's what I'm left with - I'm hoping to wire it to a regular 3-prong 120V:





I plan on initially trying to start it using a small router-speed-control module that I have (since it has a built-in fuse and that way I can start the motor slowly). That said, I have no idea how to wire it to even try to start it. Any suggestions?

 

[dayid]

This shows the wiring when I first opened it:
The red/black from a cord was going to a 2-prong plug.
The black/white from a cord was going to the taped-off 2nd cord.


This shows the cross-wiring from one cord to the other.
The white from endless-cord is attached to the single black wire that is shown in other pictures as being tied in with three of the internal cloth-covered wires.
Red from the plugged-cord is attached to the black of the endless-cord.
Black from the plugged-cord is tied in with the other three internal-cloth-covered wires.

 

[dayid]

Figures, I was overlooking looking at whether the capped-plug was just terminated or tied together. Since they were tied together I think I've got the wiring figured out. So here goes the motor or here goes the neighborhood!

 

[dayid]

So, turns out the old wires - despite not having colour to them - had little metal rings inwards towards the motor on each - that had colours and numbers printed on them. So I got this wired up last night and started the old thing. I know the motor hasn't run in at least the past 10 years, and I've no idea how long before that it sat. It turns wonderfully quietly and smoothly.

I rebelted everything the same way it was before (small->large/small->large) and did some test drills. Drills nice and straight:


Unfortunately for it - despite having every bolt removed, the whole thing being re-greased, scrubbed, and re-assembled - it looks pretty rough still. Maybe someday (after it's earned its keep in my garage) I'll give it some fresh paint and such. Misleading here is that underneath the surface rust, it had a brownish/orangey paintjob which makes it look rustier.


Now I've just got to figure out what the best configuration is for the belts given that it'll most often be working with <1/2" bits in wood to get the right amount of speed/power.

Also, I figured out almost every adjustment and setting for this thing, but what is the curved/height-adjustable part here?

 

[Packard V8]

what is the curved/height-adjustable part here?

The quill has inch markings on it and when several holes to the same depth are wanted, that pointer is set to the depth and the operator watches the marks on the quill and stops there.

On the right side of the quill there should be a threaded positive stop which can be adjusted if many holes are needed, thus the operator doesn't have to aim and hit a mark.

Hint: find someone with a lathe. Disassemble the DP and chuck the column in the lathe. A few minutes with sandpaper and the column will look like new. Alternately, with top and table off the column, hand sanding will also clean up the column.

jack vines

 

[dayid]

The quill has inch markings on it and when several holes to the same depth are wanted, that pointer is set to the depth and the operator watches the marks on the quill and stops there.

On the right side of the quill there should be a threaded positive stop which can be adjusted if many holes are needed, thus the operator doesn't have to aim and hit a mark.

Thanks Jack, I saw the markings on the quill, and an exploded diagram that said the part was an "Indexer". I *thought* that was what it was for, but wasn't sure why I'd have two ways to control depth. I'd just figured to use the threaded column.