Delta Shopmaster table-saw is dead -- repair or replace?

[wotan]

I bought at Delta Shopmaster Table Saw 2 years ago at Menards. It's about as basic as it gets and I've only used it half-a-dozen times on simple home remodeling projects. It did what I needed it to do.... until recently.

Now if I try to cut through anything thicker than cardboard the circuit breaker built into it constantly trips. I called Delta and their service department had me check the brushes on the motor. They look brand new. He also asked me to try different extension cords, outlets, etc. No difference.

I can't find a replacement motor online and Delta isn't willing to ship me one.

They are telling me to get the machine serviced I need to take it to a service center which is 100 miles away. I suppose I could ship it -- but is it really worth the hassle for a <$300 saw?

 

[toolmiser]

Are you using an extension cord, if so, what gauge wire and how long? It does make a difference.

move it and try it near an outlet to try and see if it makes a difference.

 

[wotan]

Pulled the motor out of the housing and I don't see any obvious issues:

 

[dogdog]

sounds like bad switch if the saw motor starts and spins... only trip the fuse / switch when under load.

 

[seber]

Wire a fuse in line and bypass the circuit breaker. I bet it will run.

 

[TuxThePenguin]

what's the specific model number? Really need to include model numbers when asking about devices. Does it have a universal motor? Googling their stuff, they've got saws with different types of motors.

Is it on an AFCI breaker by any chance?

 

[wotan]

what's the specific model number? Really need to include model numbers when asking about devices. Does it have a universal motor? Googling their stuff, they've got saws with different types of motors.

Is it on an AFCI breaker by any chance?

Model 36-300. Motor doesn't have any markings or model numbers. Not sure about the AFCI breaker.... Looks like a regular thermal overload button.

Also seems like someone removed the photos I posted in #3. Did I do something wrong there?

 

[BarryWells]

What HP is the thing ? Mine is a 1 1/2 and draws 18 amps when on 120....I set it up 220 instead. It'll pop a 15 amp 120 breaker in a heartbeat but I do have a couple 30's on 110 for the small welder and a 1 1/2 horse belt grinder.

 

[scooterbum46]

I vote with Seber . Crappy overload breaker in the motor - bypass and try an externally wired inline breaker or fuse.

 

[tonyciambrone]

2 years ago my Delta Cruzer miter saw got knocked over in the shop, busted a few pieces. Called Delta who politely told me to pound sand, and to quit dreaming about getting replacement parts.

I would bypass whatever switch delta put on, hook a simple light switch in between the motor and the plug, just to test if the saw will run correctly without the factory bits.

If so, I would go out and get a motor start-stop switch, something that looks easy to hit the off button with. Wire it up and figure out a way to mount it to the saw.

 

[TuxThePenguin]

I assume it's a 36-600 and the 36-300 is a mistake? Googling it I find the 600 results

Universal motor... no capacitor, but has brushes

You might have worn brushes that are causing intermittent connection which basically is causing the motor to keep re-starting which causes inrush current to keep coming in, which trips a breaker.

Edit: I'm not sure if you messed up with the photos, OP, but I can say I haven't seen any.

 

[wotan]

What HP is the thing ? Mine is a 1 1/2 and draws 18 amps when on 120....I set it up 220 instead. It'll pop a 15 amp 120 breaker in a heartbeat but I do have a couple 30's on 110 for the small welder and a 1 1/2 horse belt grinder.

It's not popping the breaker on the circuit -- it's popping the overload breaker. And not at start-up, either. No HP indicated-- just 15 amps.

 

[wotan]

I assume it's a 36-600 and the 36-300 is a mistake? Googling it I find the 600 results

Universal motor... no capacitor, but has brushes

You might have worn brushes that are causing intermittent connection which basically is causing the motor to keep re-starting which causes inrush current to keep coming in, which trips a breaker.

Edit: I'm not sure if you messed up with the photos, OP, but I can say I haven't seen any.

S36-300. Sorry about that. https://ctpowertools.com/product/s36-300-delta-shopmaster-10-portable-table-saw-28-rip/

And very weird -- I had photos uploaded and displaying last night but they are gone today. Would think a mod would have a made a note if there was an issue. Lets try again.

 

[TuxThePenguin]

https://assets.ctfassets.net/hnrwk8...af7896a/S36-300_RPL_080818_DPEC005190_RV5.pdf (no idea what ctfassets.net is, but I got this from Google and it seems to be correct) still has a universal motor with brushes. PDF has a part number for the brushes; if not available you'll have to find them by dimension and/or file some down to size.

It's probably those or the switch. I put my money on the brushes, but I'm going to play it safe and wager zero dollars.

(Edit: Yes, now I see the images; they weren't working before. Now I can see the brushes look fine. Commutator is dirty, but might not be the issue. Still, clean that.)

 

[RTM]

@wotan. Take the 1st s out of your Https to get links to pix to work.

 

[wotan]

@wotan. Take the 1st s out of your Https to get links to pix to work.

You're the man. Pics seem to be displaying now. Thanks.

 

[dogdog]

The brushes looked fine, Clean up the commutator with a fine sand paper strip. 200 grit would be ok... then clean the gap without cutting any wire or finger with a razor blade the goove between the pads. That is about all you can DIY.. with those motors, Spark on the switch is a thing... I would check those for carbon ... I had a pic of the switch contact burned/carbonized till it no longer makes contacts. Before that symptom is a weak and loud motor. I guess worth a check.



In my case it was this thread. after clean up, it's been working fine. YMMV, at least worth a check.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=332512&highlight=switch

 

[scooterbum46]

It's not popping the breaker on the circuit -- it's popping the overload breaker. And not at start-up, either. No HP indicated-- just 15 amps.

Harbor Freight has an clamp type amprobe for 15 bucks. Watch the draw with it running, if the current draw seems within normal range when the overload (see, I read your original post ) pops, bypass it and rerun the test. I've had more than one overload on a universal motor go ti*s up.....

 

[The Cobbler]

your pictures in question were posted linked to Imgur. you need to delete the "S" from "HTTPS" and the i. before imgur for the photos to display here. no one removed them, just the nature of imgur

 

[The Cobbler]

I wouls also suspect a bad breaker. they are cheap POS /
I had an extension cord years ago that had a 15a breaker, a small electric drill would pop it. it went bye by real quick . the breaker, not the drill

 

[Kobe786]

As I see you are using 15 amp breaker, I use minimum 20 amp. May be thats the problem? Also, are you using any other tools, power equipment while you running the saw? It's difficult to tell here without checking the saw.

 

[wotan]

Thanks, guys. I looked for some kind of overload protected outlet at the hardware store yesterday to try and cobble together something "safe" to bypass the factory switch. Came up pretty empty save for a power strip with a 15a breaker. That should do, right?

 

[RTM]

Might smoke the power strip with the inrush current of a motor. Been there, done that. Those strips ckt breakers are pretty poor.

 

[seber]

One time should not smoke the strip. Yes, that will give sufficient protection.

 

[dogdog]

you can try use this switch and it will switch both hot and neutral..

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton...ble-Pole-Switch-White-R62-03032-2WS/100356941