Delta/unisaw experts, 12" saw?
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DavidR8
Well-known member
They did make a 12” saw but it wasn’t called a Unisaw.
One thing that is different for a ISE perspective is that the distance from the front of the table to the blade is deeper than a 10” saw.
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One thing that is different for a ISE perspective is that the distance from the front of the table to the blade is deeper than a 10” saw.
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Don1357
Well-known member
It is as heavy as a ****** marriage.
It probably has a ridiculously large 5hp motor that will eat through anything like it wasn't even there.
Do you really need the extra inch of cut capacity? If you do the $500 is a steal. If you don't the $500 is still a pretty awesome price for something with that size motor. The only question is whether you have a place for it weight and footprint-wise. My workshop is on a second floor and while the floor trusses are rated for quite a bit of weight I'm already piling up other heavy woodworking machines there.
It probably has a ridiculously large 5hp motor that will eat through anything like it wasn't even there.
Do you really need the extra inch of cut capacity? If you do the $500 is a steal. If you don't the $500 is still a pretty awesome price for something with that size motor. The only question is whether you have a place for it weight and footprint-wise. My workshop is on a second floor and while the floor trusses are rated for quite a bit of weight I'm already piling up other heavy woodworking machines there.
Bigblockyeti
Banned
Unisaws were all 10" from all the different manufacturers mergers and acquisitions. There was a 12" saw (the one you have picture) but I can't remember the model number, the RT-40 was the 14" saw.
$500 might be ok if it's something you really want and it's in good shape but it would need a thorough inspection to confirm its condition.
$500 might be ok if it's something you really want and it's in good shape but it would need a thorough inspection to confirm its condition.
Thanks for the info.
I'm looking for a unisaw, preferably with a biesemeyer fence. If this saw won't do the precision of the unisaw, or fit the attachments, it probably isn't for me. If it's similar in performance/function then the extra power/capacity would be great.
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I'm looking for a unisaw, preferably with a biesemeyer fence. If this saw won't do the precision of the unisaw, or fit the attachments, it probably isn't for me. If it's similar in performance/function then the extra power/capacity would be great.
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Cruzan80
Well-known member
Yes, it will handle the precision as well as a Unisaw (of same condition). Jas the jetlock fence, and overarm guard. If you have a way to run 3ph (rotary converter) or dont mind a VFD, and have the room, grab it. It will do everything a Unisaw can, and more. Just at the "cost" of a bigger motor draw, and more room/weight.
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Delta table saws came in a 12/14" version don't know if it was labeled a "Unisaw". They had one at a place that I use to work at and I used it every day.
Look at VintageMachjnery for a good reference.
http://www.vintagemachinery.org/mfgIndex/detail.aspx?id=1141&tab=4&sort=3&th=false&fl=Table Saw
You can click on the column titles (description, size,etc) to sort the column in the order that helps your search.
Here is an example of the 12/14", looks like your photo.
Look at VintageMachjnery for a good reference.
http://www.vintagemachinery.org/mfgIndex/detail.aspx?id=1141&tab=4&sort=3&th=false&fl=Table Saw
You can click on the column titles (description, size,etc) to sort the column in the order that helps your search.
Here is an example of the 12/14", looks like your photo.
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That saw is called the Delta Rockwell 12/14 Tilting Arbor Saw. There are a lot of different model numbers, a couple are 34-350 and 34-395.
This saw is the Unisaw's big brother. It weighs about twice as much. It normally uses a 12" blade (1" arbor). You can use a 14" blade, but the bigger blade won't go all the way down into the table. A lot of these have 3-phase motors so be aware of that.
I have a 34-395 that I paid $500 for. It has a 5hp single-phase motor. I love it!
This saw is the Unisaw's big brother. It weighs about twice as much. It normally uses a 12" blade (1" arbor). You can use a 14" blade, but the bigger blade won't go all the way down into the table. A lot of these have 3-phase motors so be aware of that.
I have a 34-395 that I paid $500 for. It has a 5hp single-phase motor. I love it!
Marctrees
Well-known member
Scroll down to approx page 6 for the 12/14 saw.
Marc
http://ozarktoolmanuals.com/wp-content/uploads/pdfcatalogs/Rockwell_1969_Catalog_Part_2.pdf
Marc
http://ozarktoolmanuals.com/wp-content/uploads/pdfcatalogs/Rockwell_1969_Catalog_Part_2.pdf
rsanter
Well-known member
That was a full commercial 12/14" blade table saw
They are very heavy and they are a monster.
They were intended for full on commercial use.
If you need a good big table saw that's a deal assuming it's all in good shape.
I had one, sold it,for $800 on eBay and didn't take too long to sell
They are very heavy and they are a monster.
They were intended for full on commercial use.
If you need a good big table saw that's a deal assuming it's all in good shape.
I had one, sold it,for $800 on eBay and didn't take too long to sell
mllester
ALLIANCE MEMBER
If you have the space, I’d say go for it.
But, that being said, I have a RT Unisaw with a Biesemeyer fence that I love....
But, that being said, I have a RT Unisaw with a Biesemeyer fence that I love....
macgee
Well-known member
Like others have said, its a good deal if its in good shape but...........This is an industrial used saw and they can have tons and tons of hours on them and heavy wear.
Whether it's either a single phase and third phase motor, you still need to make sure the bearings are good inside, inspect the commutator and carbon brushes. Also should check the bearings for the arbor that holds the blade. Its all rebuildable but it takes time, certain tools and time or money. You'll want to also check the trunnion for cracks and missing teeth, thats more of a problem. 10" Unisaw parts are a dime a dozen but parts for the 12/14 is another story, that's either hard to get or pricey or both. Not saying don't buy it but just a mention to check it out before buying for $500.
I'm currently rebuilding my third Unisaw and in the middle of rebuilding a 84lb unisaw 8300 bullet motor, I'm blown away how many times the motor has been rebuilt and how many times the commutator has been turned down on a lathe, its almost down to the nub and needed a new necklace.
These saws have been around for a long time and have wear.
Whether it's either a single phase and third phase motor, you still need to make sure the bearings are good inside, inspect the commutator and carbon brushes. Also should check the bearings for the arbor that holds the blade. Its all rebuildable but it takes time, certain tools and time or money. You'll want to also check the trunnion for cracks and missing teeth, thats more of a problem. 10" Unisaw parts are a dime a dozen but parts for the 12/14 is another story, that's either hard to get or pricey or both. Not saying don't buy it but just a mention to check it out before buying for $500.
I'm currently rebuilding my third Unisaw and in the middle of rebuilding a 84lb unisaw 8300 bullet motor, I'm blown away how many times the motor has been rebuilt and how many times the commutator has been turned down on a lathe, its almost down to the nub and needed a new necklace.
These saws have been around for a long time and have wear.
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Hack Fabrication
Banned
I'm going to steal that....Yep. Including human bone. I've a nice 'reminder' scar (middle finger, right hand), from getting too close to the 14" blade. Luckily still have that important finger for hand signaling...
Most likely 3 phase, so you'll need to factor in the additional cost of a converter, unless you have 3 phase power available.
matt_i
Well-known member
COuple of other things to think about...
Make sure its a dual voltage/ 9wire motor that is easily reconfigured for 240/480 x 3ph. If you have a single voltage 480v-only motor you're also into a 3 phase transformer.
A rotary converter won't give you full HP. A VFD will but make sure you investigate whether it will deliver full Output HP on Single Phase Input. Many are rated to only deliver 1/2 of rated HP with a single phase input.
I looked at this equivalent issue in Powermatic long ago, the main thing where I lost interest was that there's a very wide selection of blades & dados, etc in the 10" sizes...many products out there (thin kerf rip, stack dado, ATB/triple chip grinds, zero clearance inserts). It dropped to roughly 10% of that total product offering in the 12" size with everything being more expensive out of the box.
Make sure its a dual voltage/ 9wire motor that is easily reconfigured for 240/480 x 3ph. If you have a single voltage 480v-only motor you're also into a 3 phase transformer.
A rotary converter won't give you full HP. A VFD will but make sure you investigate whether it will deliver full Output HP on Single Phase Input. Many are rated to only deliver 1/2 of rated HP with a single phase input.
I looked at this equivalent issue in Powermatic long ago, the main thing where I lost interest was that there's a very wide selection of blades & dados, etc in the 10" sizes...many products out there (thin kerf rip, stack dado, ATB/triple chip grinds, zero clearance inserts). It dropped to roughly 10% of that total product offering in the 12" size with everything being more expensive out of the box.
240sxguy
Well-known member
Few observations;
1 - Price is good if the table is in good shape, but you can also find a conventional unisaw for that money around here.
2 - My unisaw is heavy as hell, and somewhat annoying to deal with sometimes for storage. If you have infinite room, go for it, if you want to move it around don't buy this one.
3 - Even with the smallest motor (I think mine is 3hp?) it never hesitates to cut cleanly and smoothly.
4 - I hated the jetlock fence and was happy to remove it for a delta T30. I would like a wider fence but this handles the majority of my needs.
1 - Price is good if the table is in good shape, but you can also find a conventional unisaw for that money around here.
2 - My unisaw is heavy as hell, and somewhat annoying to deal with sometimes for storage. If you have infinite room, go for it, if you want to move it around don't buy this one.
3 - Even with the smallest motor (I think mine is 3hp?) it never hesitates to cut cleanly and smoothly.
4 - I hated the jetlock fence and was happy to remove it for a delta T30. I would like a wider fence but this handles the majority of my needs.
neophyte
Well-known member
Delta definitely manufactured a “ 12” “ table saw, because I’ve used one of them in the past, and I also remember seeing them in catalogs maybe 15 years ago.
The one I used was usually mounted with a 14” blade though, and I recall the saw being spec’d to use a 14” blade, although the 14” blade just slightly notched into the cast iron top, so using a 14” blade seemed like a slightly cludged spec made to make a saw meant for a smaller diameter blade more useful.
Maybe there was some type of stop to prevent the blade being raised too high that never got set up right or something, but a 14” blade was just slightly large when raised to maximum height.
The throat plate also didn’t quite work right because of this on the saw I used, so a wood throat plate was added. I don’t know it there was a “proper” manufacturer supplied throat plate for the use of the 14” blade.
That saw in the photo, if fully functional, should definitely be worth $500.
Also, the overhead blade guard should be safer than the standard blade guard.
The one I used was usually mounted with a 14” blade though, and I recall the saw being spec’d to use a 14” blade, although the 14” blade just slightly notched into the cast iron top, so using a 14” blade seemed like a slightly cludged spec made to make a saw meant for a smaller diameter blade more useful.
Maybe there was some type of stop to prevent the blade being raised too high that never got set up right or something, but a 14” blade was just slightly large when raised to maximum height.
The throat plate also didn’t quite work right because of this on the saw I used, so a wood throat plate was added. I don’t know it there was a “proper” manufacturer supplied throat plate for the use of the 14” blade.
That saw in the photo, if fully functional, should definitely be worth $500.
Also, the overhead blade guard should be safer than the standard blade guard.
Duker
Well-known member
Cant add anymore to what has been said above description wise... I have rebuilt two of them (sold to buy other tools) and have one in the shop ready to restore. As long as the trunnion is in good shape the rest is easy to fix/replace. Bearings are available and inexpensive to replace. It is a great saw and will more than likely cut anything you need to rip. I have pushed 16/4 mesquite (tougher than oak) through it like butter.