Delta Unisaw Restoration

[Eric2576]

Hi,

this is my first post. I'm looking hard at an old Delta Unisaw as a restoration project. May keep it, may sell it after resto, depends on how much I like it.

The saw I'm looking at is a 1957 Uni but it has a couple of issues. One, it's missing the motor cover, which for some reason many of the older models are missing. I can go without, I can get an ABS plastic one for $99, or I can get a metal repro for $250 (not). Two, hmmm, there really isn't a two, it's running and otherwise complete.

So I'm in negotiation with the seller and he is somewhat flexible. He says it runs very well and has been in the family since the beginning, his father-in-law's cabinet shop.

I'm very confident that I can restore it to like new condition. How much would you guys say is a good price point to buy the saw? He can sell it as is, considering it's running fine, so I need a little guidance in making an offer.

Here's a pic of the saw - doesn't look too rough for a 62 year old saw. Table top looks pretty decent from the pics. He thinks it's a 1.5 hp, but I believe if it's the original bullet motor, they only came in a 3/4 to 1 hp configuration, or did I get that wrong? I'll go see it tomorrow.

 

[jonshonda]

What are you looking to do with the saw. I might get yelled at here, but I have modified a used Craftsman 113.xxxxx table saw ($70) with a rolling stand made from 2x4's and 6" casters , and beisemeyer fence that I would say is much more accurate but maybe not as powerful as the delta.

Not trying to toot my own horn here, just thinking that saw needs a nicer fence system to be reliable.

 

[exmaxima1]

What are you looking to do with the saw. I might get yelled at here, but I have modified a used Craftsman 113.xxxxx table saw ($70) with a rolling stand made from 2x4's and 6" casters , and beisemeyer fence that I would say is much more accurate but maybe not as powerful as the delta.

LOL, no comparison. A Unisaw---any age---is vastly superior to a Sears saw, even the heralded King-Seeley models. I've owned both (still have the Uni), and would never go back to a Craftsman with its godawful tilting mechanism and single belt drive hanging out the back.

 

[Eric2576]

The first and foremost reason I'm thinking about doing this is the appeal of restoring an iconic piece of history. The Unisaw has been a true and trusted machine for decades not only for it's design, but also for it's dependability. In other words, it's not just to get a decent saw, but to bring something notable back from the brink of dilapidation. Besides, have you seen some of the restorations of the Unisaw? They look fantastic! Maybe I can take some medication for this bug that's got a hold of me ;-)

Oh yeah, that motor hanging off the back of my Ridgid is driving me nuts too, lol.

 

[Downwindtracker 2]

For old woodworking and metalworking tools, these guys can be a great help, both on advice and parts http://vintagemachinery.org/home.aspx

Most Unisaws didn't come with a motor cover, I know my late '80s I bought new, didn't . Unisaws are great saws.

When it comes to machinery,I'm not a purist , my shop is not a museum. Look for a Unifence or a Biesmeyer fence or a clone . A saw or a shaper depends on a good fence .

 

[rsanter]

You don’t need the motor cover unless you plan to use a vac system with the saw

 

[Eric2576]

You don’t need the motor cover unless you plan to use a vac system with the saw

That's exactly what I want, making the saw as tight as possible to hook up my vacuum system. I've done a little bit of fiberglass work, a custom radiator shroud for my cruiser, so I might attempt to make a motor cover out of fiberglass. Not some slip shot cover, but something that will resemble an original. I realize the ABS cover is cheap and will do exactly what I want, but I would like to build my own just ... because

 

[seber]

That one has the Unifence. I've used saws with Unifence and with Biesemeyer. The Unifence gets my vote. It adjusts faster with less effort and is just as accurate. Most used Unisaws go for around $500 plus or minus depending on your area. Condition may make a difference but it wouldn't be much if it works well. The smaller motor (1 1/2 hp) is less desirable. Unfortunately the motor is special for Unisaws only. If you can find a three horse it turns the saw into a monster. Two horse is good but I've never seen one with only 1 1/2.

 

[Eric2576]

Well, I'll see shortly what I'm dealing with.

 

[Downwindtracker 2]

I built my cover out of wood, but I don't use dust collection on the saw.

 

[FJ 432]

I believe one of your original questions was what you should offer. IMHO 300.00 based on my area.

My examples of one for sale in better condition:

https://denver.craigslist.org/tls/d/table-saw/6914622592.html

https://fortcollins.craigslist.org/tls/d/fort-collins-delta-unisaw-table-saw/6909954975.html

 

[Eric2576]

Thanks, that's what I was thinking too.

Lately people have been going a little nuts with their asking prices for saws. Sometimes the gold dust is a little hard to see, lol.

 

[Damon L.]

That one has the Unifence.

That is actually the Jet-Lock fence. The Unifence is attached. I too prefer the Jet-lock, once you get used to the quirks.

A runner in my area would be priced between 500 and 1000 depending on condition.

 

[rsanter]

That's exactly what I want, making the saw as tight as possible to hook up my vacuum system. I've done a little bit of fiberglass work, a custom radiator shroud for my cruiser, so I might attempt to make a motor cover out of fiberglass. Not some slip shot cover, but something that will resemble an original. I realize the ABS cover is cheap and will do exactly what I want, but I would like to build my own just ... because

Well then you will need one.
I would make a more square one like the later unisaw models did.
I have a bead roller and a magnetic brake that can be used to make something that would look era correct even though it won’t be factory correct

Most of them are missing it because the saw is easier to service and clean out without it there when not using a vac system

 

[seber]

That is actually the Jet-Lock fence. The Unifence is attached. I too prefer the Jet-lock, once you get used to the quirks.

A runner in my area would be priced between 500 and 1000 depending on condition.

You are correct. I should have expanded the photo. I've never used the Jet-lock.

 

[Eric2576]

I'll have to think about the shape a bit. Maybe I'll use a gold fish bowl so I can see the purdy Bullet motor and have my dust collection too

 

[KenC]

They were available with a 1.5hp 'bullet' motor. Excellent motor, lots of power compared to the rating.

Most people down grade the jet lock fence. I do like my beis better than I did the jetlock, but for occasional use, the jetlock works OK. the key is to set it up so that it locks tightly and straight. I had good luck with mine just loosening things up and locking it, test for straight and repeat until it is parallel, then tighten the adjustment.

 

[Eric2576]

Thanks Ken, I'll remember that. Can't be any worse than the CM I'm used to mucking with

 

[Eric2576]

Well, had to move the viewing till tomorrow morning. This will be my first large scale (relatively) and first Unisaw restoration if it goes through tomorrow. Cross your finger for me.

 

[toolmiser]

Not all of them came with a motor cover originally. Mine didn't. See if there are 4 holes to secure one, that will give you an idea. They are a great saw, not sure if there is much money to be made restoring one for money. But if your going to keep it why not?

 

[Eric2576]

It's definitely worth more if I part it out, but what's the fun in that? I'd feel like a poacher or something. I'm slowly working my way up, from a $75 Craftsman that I "fixed" up and sold - take that money and buy and polish another better Craftsman - sell that - take the money from that and buy....a $50 Ridgid TS3650, yes $50, fix that, then take that money and hopefully buy the Uni - fingers crossed.

 

[Eric2576]

I got my new project and brought her home.

One of the best parts about this project is that it cost me nothing. Yes, the saw was advertised for $500 obo, but I paid nothing. How, you may ask?

Well, a couple of weeks ago, I helped a friend move. Him and his wife wanted to change their decor, so in exchange for me helping for a day, I not only got lunch, dinner, and all I can drink, but also a very nice Mission style dresser and 2 matching nightstands. The dresser needed the drawer guides to be fixed but that was all.

I sold all three pieces a week later and used that money to buy this 1957 Delta Unisaw for $200 less than the asking price. Not wanting any deception, I told David (Seller) that I was looking for a restoration candidate and could only offer $300. I even told him he could very likely get more for it as it was running just fine, but somehow he liked the idea of it being restored and agreed to let me have it for the aforementioned price. It's been a good day so far.

Overall, the saw has seen a bit of use, but it was cleaner than I expected. The top is in very decent shape without many of the deep scratches that seem to mar many older table saw tops. The left hand extension does have a major issue, namely a piece of the side wall has broken off. Not sure how to address that yet. I'm thinking a replacement might be in order as the damage is pretty nasty. See the pics below. The other extension seems just fine.

That motor...wow, that motor is a beast and weights a ton. Low and behold, it is a 1.5 hp motor, and all the while I thought it was a 1 hp - nice surprise. Although it runs very smooth, I can hear a very slight, for lack of a better term - warble as it's running. Since I'm gonna strip everything anyway, I'm just gonna replace the bearings, which I am fairly confident are the source of the dreaded "Warble."

The arbor is tight, and both adjusting wheels turn freely. All in all, it's a very solid, no pun intended, Unisaw. A couple of other things I noticed - the lever on the fence will need to be replaced as someone seems to have put it through the grinder, lol. There is no bottom plate in the saw case - there should be one, right? I'm not sure, but it seems that there should be one to prevent sawdust from collecting on the floor inside the saw? Not sure. Finally, there is no motor cover, although it originally had one. I can clearly see the outline of the cover edges on the housing side where the motor hangs.

Overall, my first impression is more than positive about the overall condition of the saw and the potential it has to be a grand ole' lady.

Here are some pics to share with you guys. I'll be starting a new thread for the sole purpose of documenting the restoration as I go on OWWM, so please check in and share your knowledge and advice if you would be so kind. Thanks in advance.

Eric

 

[Eric2576]

First two questions:

1. The lever on the fence is bent and marred. Best option to fix that?

2. A nice chunk of the left side table extension has broken off at some point. Can that be repaired or should I start looking for another extension. And no, I don't want to live with that, lol. Here's a pic.

 

[The Cobbler]

You have a nice little project
I think the lever on the fence is threaded in, may be able find a replacement . not sure how the newer jet lock fences look in comparison

 

[Eric2576]

Thanks. Once I get going, I'm really good at snooping out parts and ways to McGuyver things. Just fishing right now for things other guys might have done

 

[The Cobbler]

actually that may be bent OEM, look at this picture https://www.ebay.com/itm/Delta-Unis...979684?hash=item215baceaa4:g:n1gAAOSw7bhc7W4b

 

[Eric2576]

That one also has a little up swing, but mine is more than that, it's definitely not correct. Looks like someone used a vice grip or pliers on it at some point or maybe it fell on that end and they tried to jimmy it back.

 

[Eric2576]

Lol, your avatar looks very familiar

 

[Eric2576]

The lever is part #TCS270 and was used on various Delta tools, not just the Unisaw. It's just a rod threaded on both ends, easy to duplicate.

 

[Eric2576]

If anyone would like to follow the restoration, I'll continue my progress on the Old Wood Working Machines forum (OWWM.org) under the heading: "1957 Unisaw restoration project needs input."

Thank you

 

[Maui]

I'll stop in from time to time to see where you are. I just picked up a Unisaw that was built in 1956.

 

[Eric2576]

Pick my brain anytime. I'm really enjoying the restoration process and everything it's teaching me.

 

[ttpete]

You can clean up the broken area so it is flat and square, then cut out some cold rolled steel to fit in there and braze it in. Surface and paint and it will look original.

 

[Eric2576]

You can clean up the broken area so it is flat and square, then cut out some cold rolled steel to fit in there and braze it in. Surface and paint and it will look original.

That's good to know, but I took the lazy man's way and sourced three original extensions that are in really nice shape. No major scratches and just a little surface rust. Will use the best out of the five I have now for the restoration and sell the rest.

While I was at it, I also found a nice stock fence with no nicks in it and everything looked great. Got it home though and had a little bit of a let down as I cleaned up the rear clamp mechanism - it seems to be starting to crack where many do. Not totally sure as it might be casting imperfections.

 

[Eric2576]

This was really buggin me, so I sanded the surface to see how deep the scratches were. Took a little sanding, then buffing, but it's not a crack. Someone suggested it could have been a weld joint not filled all the way. In any case it buffed out and I'm very happy with it. Here's the result.