Dense Packing Cellulose Insulation - Why not cut a strip?

[tryme96z]

I am planning to dense pack cellulose insulation in my new construction sheet rocked garage (thanks builder! ) I have read up on drilling holes into each stud cavity and am wondering why not just cut a strip of drywall out?

It seems to me it would be easier to replace a 3"-4" strip of drywall across a few 20' walls instead of plugging 14 holes per wall. I am not concerned about having additional tape joints in my garage at the cost of a simpler patch.

Anyone ever try this method with dense packing cellulose insulation?

 

[theoldwizard1]

I am not concerned about having additional tape joints in my garage ...

There is your answer.

 

[Highbeam]

Once you get a system, the holes will be easier to fix. Imagine cutting out 14 little circles. So you hold a short chunk of baseboard inside the hole, screw through the sheetrock into the board on two sides of the hole to hold the wood in place. Then set the little sheetrock circle in the hole and screw it to the board. I wouldn't even tape that joint.

 

[tryme96z]

I have done drywall patches like that without issue even inside the home (where I care about the final product). I have also blown insulation in an attic. I have just never done this whole cut a hole, stick a tub in, and pack as you pull out thing. Should be fun though.

 

[miketyler]

I went thru this recently to gain access to thru bolts going thru brick outside for my mini split install. I only needed access for a deep socket and extension. I made three cuts in a "C" shape and pulled the dry wall out leaving the plug hanging. Like cutting a small access door in your sheet rock. Will make finish work easier as my walls are textured and painted.

 

[BruceMc]

If this is new construction, insulate before you put up the inside sheathing. I had mine done a few weeks ago. The insulators put up a fine mesh, punch a small hole, and then blow the insulation. It's easy, quicker then having to cut and patch plugs in the sheathing, and visually assures there are no voids.

 

[Gcrop]

If this is new construction, insulate before you put up the inside sheathing. I had mine done a few weeks ago. The insulators put up a fine mesh, punch a small hole, and then blow the insulation. It's easy, quicker then having to cut and patch plugs in the sheathing, and visually assures there are no voids.

This is exactly what I am wanting to do in the next 2-3 months (maybe sooner). I can't find that mesh at Lowes though. Going to try Home Depot next. Does anyone know if this is something I will have to order online?

YouTube video I found of that process:

Sidenote: Jealous of that view out of the front of your garage.

 

[BruceMc]

Some brand names you can search for are Insuloc, Insulweb, or Insulmesh. For the price, it was worth hiring this out to someone that does it for a living. Over the course of about 8 hours (split between 2 days) they had the mesh up, insulation blown, and vapor barrier installed, sealed, and finished. This was in a 28'x32'x12' with R22 in the walls and R50 in the ceiling.

Take a look at how the mesh is tacked to the studs. If you are going to do this yourself, you'll want to invest in a quality power stapler for the mesh. No way in the world would you want to do this one staple at a time.

 

[shade]

I went the cookie cutout route - not a big deal.
Obviously do the holes as high up as possible so you get as much insulation as possible into the cavity.

 

[Gcrop]

Good advice Bruce. Mind if I ask ballpark what that cost? Just trying to cut costs where I can after building the garage.


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[BruceMc]

The whole thing with installation and vapor barrier worked out to about $2/sq ft. for the wall/ceiling. That's at Alaska prices, which is to say, it should be cheaper just about anywhere else on the planet. For comparison, locally, R-21 fiberglass would have cost around $1 per sq ft just for the batts. I was quoted spray foam at around $2 a board foot and it would have cost around 4x as much for the same R value.

 

[Gcrop]

The whole thing with installation and vapor barrier worked out to about $2/sq ft. for the wall/ceiling. That's at Alaska prices, which is to say, it should be cheaper just about anywhere else on the planet. For comparison, locally, R-21 fiberglass would have cost around $1 per sq ft just for the batts. I was quoted spray foam at around $2 a board foot and it would have cost around 4x as much for the same R value.

Great info. Thanks.

At those prices, maybe I will reconsider to do batts on the walls and blown for the ceiling (floor of room above).


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[JettaGetUpandGo]

Bruce, is there a reason why your insulation does not fill the full wall cavity, or is this an in progress picture?

We just recently started using this as an upgrade in our homes from the standard batt. Like was already mentioned, it's much cheaper than closed cell foam but with a very similar insulation value. That being said, the closed cell foam adds rigidity to the walls and does a great job sealing crevices (fewer bug/pest intrusions). To most people the added benefits aren't worth the extra cost.

 

[BruceMc]

Bruce, is there a reason why your insulation does not fill the full wall cavity, or is this an in progress picture?

That's day 1. They didn't get started until after lunch. I figured that pic illustrated pretty well both the mesh and the fill.