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Densifier Applied - Nice Results

S4cruiser

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Just finished applying a floor covering to my new garage build. I was torn b/w an acid stain or clear sealer. Since I couldn't decide and wanted to go ahead and move stuff in, I chose to go with a densifier...keeping my options open if I wanted to apply a sealer or acid stain at a later date.

I started working on the floor last night. I laid down 3 coats of Legacy Industrial's HD40 Stainguard, waiting about an hour b/w coats. Once dry, (first thing this morning) I spent ~3 hours wrangling a highspeed floor buffer burnishing the stainguard into the floors (damn thing owned me at first, but I got the hang of it). 2 hours with a gloss pad (3M Tan 3500) and 1 hour with a high gloss pad (3M White 3500). I'm sure my abs/core is going to be sore tomorrow morning!

I'm super pleased with how it turned out! It's very glossy and seems to have significantly improved the surface durability (i.e. doesn't scratch or scuff mark). No VOCs either, so no lingering fumes like an acrylic sealer. My lab loves to lay on the garage floor and it's nice knowing she's not catching a buzz from fumes.

Floor prep was super easy, scrubbed with a Simple Green solution and boat brush, mop off water/dirt, then rinse and let dry!

Didn't change the color of the concrete (which I liked) but burnishing left a real nice smooth glossy finish. Total cost was ~425 bucs which included the stainguard, applicator pads, cheap garden sprayer, 10 burnish pads (only used 2 but have to purchase in bundles of 5) and 4 hour floor buffer rental.

Couple pics.

Pre clean - dirty from sheetrock dust, etc.
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Cleaned and drying
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Finished product post burnishing!
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racerex

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Looks great. What method did you use to apply the product?

This may be a question more for Scotty....so you can apply multiple coats of the product and then burnish? Only asking because the product application instructions on the Legacy site speak to burnishing between the coats.....unless I'm missing something.
 

LegacyIndustrial

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Looks great. What method did you use to apply the product?

This may be a question more for Scotty....so you can apply multiple coats of the product and then burnish? Only asking because the product application instructions on the Legacy site speak to burnishing between the coats.....unless I'm missing something.

Spray on with a deck sprayer, work into floor using a micro-fiber applicator, allow to air-dry a few hours, apply all your coats prior to burnishing.

Most go 2-3 coats and done.
 
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S4cruiser

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Looks great. What method did you use to apply the product?

This may be a question more for Scotty....so you can apply multiple coats of the product and then burnish? Only asking because the product application instructions on the Legacy site speak to burnishing between the coats.....unless I'm missing something.

Like Scotty mentioned, I applied using a garden pump sprayer. The direction do indicate to apply, let dry, burnish, repeat; however, I applied 3 coats (albeit light coats) let dry for ~5 hours then burnished.

There are a couple spots where I didn't keep a 'wet edge' that I notice and a couple foot prints...but no big deal...it's a garage floor :bounce:
 

bugnout

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Very nice job.

I applied densifier last year to my new garage but didn't burnish it. I wonder if I can do that now and do a couple more coats.
 

shadyluke

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768 and I used 2 1/2 gallons.

I just ordered 7 gallons to do my 1200 sq ft shop. Maybe I could have saved $200 and only gotten the 5 gallons.

I guess I'd have to ask scotty how the HD40 would hold up outside and do the apron and my porch with the left over.
 
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LegacyIndustrial

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ShadyLuke:
If the porch and apron are textured concrete (broom finish or similar) you won't be able to work it in as you would in the garage and your coverage per sq ft will be low. Other than that it should be ok and should help shield these areas from stains to some degree.
 

shadyluke

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ShadyLuke:
If the porch and apron are textured concrete (broom finish or similar) you won't be able to work it in as you would in the garage and your coverage per sq ft will be low. Other than that it should be ok and should help shield these areas from stains to some degree.

Thanks. Judging from how far it has gone for others I suspect I will have plenty left over. The "porch" and apron aren't smooth but not as rough as broom finish. They total 88 sqft. I plan to spray it on and use a microfiber roller cover to work it into the surface.

I can't wait for my HD40 to show up, I keep checking my account to see if it shipped. I put off buying it too long because I couldn't make up my mind about what I really wanted, it turn I haven't started using the building so I don't trash the floor.

I really like the way S4's turned out and that's what won me over to finally order it.
 

dschmit

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Scotty, I used your HD39. Could I go back over my floor and apply this HD40 for more protection?
 

LegacyIndustrial

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All these products use water as the vehicle. If the HD39 is beading water than it will reject this product. If it stops beading in the future, you could go for it.
 

sbosecker

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As I mentioned a few days ago, I am intending to use a densifier in my upcoming build. I like the look of this with the burnishing but...

In addition to the Garage & Woodshop areas of my building I have a small 8' x 6' bathroom. Is it going to be possible to burnish this small room?

Best regards,

Scott

Floor Plan - Loading Dock Moved.jpg
 
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S4cruiser

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You should be able to it might just give you more of a workout trying to wrangle the buffer. I'd try to get the hang of it in the open space first. Once you figure it out then move into the smaller space.

This is all assuming you've never used a buffer before.
 

workhurts

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It will lessen the cof.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How does it compare to non broadcast epoxy clear or urethane? Was recommending it to a friend that doesn't work on cars in his garage and am considering fort basement.

I had looked at this before doing my garage and can't remember why I crossed it off the list. If someone does this, what does it prevent them from doing in the future? Since it's smooth and densified do you have to roughen it up to do epoxy or tile?
 

SkinnyPedal

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Floor Looks Great... :beer:


Floor specialist out there please HELP!!

I just built a 50x60 = 3000sqft
I will be using with a lot of oil and gas products and lots of welding and grinding. What would be the best product to keep down the dust and stains?
 

PT Doc

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What is the maintenance for this floor where the cars park? What would the maintenance be on the floor if it was a light use shop area, with no welding or chemicals being used in the shop! Thanks
 

TooMuchHair

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Scotty, please explain how/why you chose to recommend Siloxane Seal to SkinnyPedal instead of the HD40? I still haven't done my 3400 sq. ft. new fab shop. Same deal pretty rough use, lots of welding grinding and oil/grease etc.. The longer I wait the tougher this decision gets Ha. I admit over a month ago I was just about to go with Justin's HD 37 with HD40 on top.....and BAM he started offering the GhostSheild 8505S, so I thought I better wait until some more feedback came in on that combo. But your Siloxane Seal hadn't even been on my radar. I just want to get it right the first time. I hate concrete dust and want good oil resistance, but end up dragging stuff around on my floors. In case you don't remember my floor is power trowelled smooth but not quite shiny. I did it myself, first time on a trowel. Thanks, and please feel free to jump in Justin, this has to happen before I move my tools in this fall.
 

LegacyIndustrial

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Scotty, please explain how/why you chose to recommend Siloxane Seal to SkinnyPedal instead of the HD40? I still haven't done my 3400 sq. ft. new fab shop. Same deal pretty rough use, lots of welding grinding and oil/grease etc.. The longer I wait the tougher this decision gets Ha. I admit over a month ago I was just about to go with Justin's HD 37 with HD40 on top.....and BAM he started offering the GhostSheild 8505S, so I thought I better wait until some more feedback came in on that combo. But your Siloxane Seal hadn't even been on my radar. I just want to get it right the first time. I hate concrete dust and want good oil resistance, but end up dragging stuff around on my floors. In case you don't remember my floor is power trowelled smooth but not quite shiny. I did it myself, first time on a trowel. Thanks, and please feel free to jump in Justin, this has to happen before I move my tools in this fall.

He is was interested in trying to only prevent dust and stains.
Silax-Seal is good at both. Much less than the other products you mentioned (ghost...), equally as useful.

HD40 StainGuard is too, but more expensive (than Silax-Seal) and a bit more work. HD40 StainGuard is really useful for power-troweled floors, enhancing an already smooth sheen.

Have a great 4th!
 

TooMuchHair

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Thanks for getting back to me Scotty. OK, so are you saying Siloxane Seal costs less, is easier to use and just as effective as HD 40? Just no sheen? Please explain why its easier, skip the burnish or is there more to it? What other points would I be missing if I used SS? How about useful life? Thanks:)
 

SkinnyPedal

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^^^^^Same questions ^^^^^^
my floor is also power-troweled, smooth finish. Will the SS work fine on it? and if I wanted to use a stain should I stain before applying SS or after?

Big thanks for your help Scotty. Goina try'n make the order this week.
 
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LegacyIndustrial

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Here is the definitive which to use:
HD40 StainGuard was developed to give polished concrete and terrazzo a film-like barrier to help prevent staining. Believe it or not, polished concrete on its own will stain very easily from items like KOOL-AID and PICKLE VINEGAR.

Why the burnish step? Polished concrete does not like any type of "coating" and therefore the burnish (super-fast buffing that creates heat) fuses HD40 to the surface.

Therefore, if you have a very smooth concrete floor, you too can utilize this product for your floor. Not exactly what it is designed for but it works as we have seen. Best for newer floors. Also...YOU DO NOT NEED TO DENSIFY PRIOR. HD40 is a densifier too. I mention this as we keep getting calls about this, someone is floating some bull on the inter-web. If you were taking your floor through the entire polishing process, a densifier is likely going to be applied at 400 grit. Most of you are not doing this so save your money, it is a waste if you are not polishing.

Caveats: This is not a topical sealer as we know it and therefore anyone using this to seal a diamond ground floor or porous floor will be very disappointed. This is another inter-web floater.

Silax-Seal:
A new product developed to add stain resistance (oil, fuels, etc...) to our HD39 densifier product.

Best for a more porous floor. A floor that easily absorbs water, like a garage floor or a drive, patio, etc...

It is a densifer with a very rich Siloxane additive and a proprietary membrane forming chemistry which when applied correctly will help to lessen stains from oil, fuel and grease. It is invisible, no surface finish at all. It is completely penetrating. Consider this product when you are looking at common densifiers but want much more punch!

Caveats: No surface finish/sheen.

Again, use for older more porous floors interior and any exterior concrete.
 
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S4cruiser

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Is it common for a densified floor to be susceptible to tire marking?

I've got a few and a soak with Simple Green and scrubbing doesn't seem to do anything for removing the marks.
 

rand5204

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I've just completed an HD40 densifier installation and got exactly the results I was looking for. However, i note that the floor seems to "chafe" pretty easily. I unloaded some osb sheets from my pickup truck onto it and it left scuff marks. Is this normal? What can I do about it?
 

LegacyIndustrial

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It's new, burnished and glossy, it can be prone to a scuff as any gloss surface would be.
Hit it with a buffing wheel and it should come out.

Assuming you did burnish it?
 
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