Falcon67
Well-known member
Well - just placed the order. Will follow up here and on my shop thread as things progress. That $1000 I won at last weeks race sure went quick. 
Derek Weaver W-9F 2 post install
- Thread starter Falcon67
- Start date
Geoff Hobe
New member
- Joined
- Oct 23, 2010
- Messages
- 1
Looks very nice. I'm about to order the overhead version in about a week. Enjoy.!
We're at the marks on the floor, holes in the ceiling phase. Might get the JV Team over here to stand up the posts LOL. Looks like the posts are just going to clear the joists, so no sectioning required on the joists close to the posts. Still waffling over final placement - 12~16" towards the door could eliminate a bunch of rework on the ceiling tray, but may hurt work space and over all use. The right post (in the middle of the shop) would be closer to a dip in the floor if moved forward very much.
Joist on the left side, post will be 1~2" back from that. Slot is 12" wide, posts are 8" wide so a little room for scooching.
Joist on the left, post will be right next to it. Other post will key off this one's final spot. The stick is a "test pole" built to get an idea of what is in the way when standing up a 9' 4" post.
Joist on the left side, post will be 1~2" back from that. Slot is 12" wide, posts are 8" wide so a little room for scooching.
Joist on the left, post will be right next to it. Other post will key off this one's final spot. The stick is a "test pole" built to get an idea of what is in the way when standing up a 9' 4" post.
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86turbodsl
Well-known member
Man that looks like a low ceiling to use a lift. Are you tall?
Ceiling is 8'. Posts are 9' 4" tall. Later I'll be removing about 8' x 10' of ceiling to allow the "doghouse" on the cars some extra room. Compare a Max Jax - 48" lift, I can do 46" with the Mustang even before I mod the ceiling and still paid $500 less than a Max Jax for a lift with more capacity.
I can open those vents and switch on the vent without a ladder LOL, so tall enough.
I can open those vents and switch on the vent without a ladder LOL, so tall enough.
Both posts in place, more or less.
Grab the post at about the 6 1/2' mark and after a bit can just stand it up with a little effort.
Exactly 112.25" between the posts. Still have to shim and bolt. They are pretty close to plumb in these spots.
About where the typical race car should balance. Still debating the final position but this is likely the best compromise in the space.
The ceiling rework will be either cut 3 joists or 4. 3 isn't a big deal. 4 might be and will need some study. Mostly worried about loads in the front carried across the door beam.
Grab the post at about the 6 1/2' mark and after a bit can just stand it up with a little effort.
Exactly 112.25" between the posts. Still have to shim and bolt. They are pretty close to plumb in these spots.
About where the typical race car should balance. Still debating the final position but this is likely the best compromise in the space.
The ceiling rework will be either cut 3 joists or 4. 3 isn't a big deal. 4 might be and will need some study. Mostly worried about loads in the front carried across the door beam.
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Just a note - after sitting in the attic for about 30 minutes and playing with a tape measure, I may just drop the whole ceiling in that area and drop 3-4 joists, moving a couple of existing to the sides to double up. The height gain looks to be enough to walk under a car, so it's a possibility. Just a lot of rework for someone that hates to mess with what ain't broke LOL.
Jamiew66
Active member
Nice work. I bought the exact same brand lift last week, I got the W-9D and I unloaded it and stood the posts up with my cherry picker just as you did. Do yours wobble when they are stood up ? Mine wobble and I have had to shim it up a lot. In fact I called them and they are sending me more shims. When I spoke with them I said I don't think the bottom is flat. They told me that's fairly common, they draw down while they are being welded and end up with a slightly convex bottom.
I was hoping to have drilled the holes and installed it already but I'm having to wait for these shims. I have a 14' ceiling so thankfully I don't have your problem.
Jamie
I was hoping to have drilled the holes and installed it already but I'm having to wait for these shims. I have a 14' ceiling so thankfully I don't have your problem.
Jamie
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Posts anchored finally. Only two holes had 4", the rest way more - most holes 5" with no break through. There's one front that pulled a little above the 2 1/4" limit but all are holding torque so not worried about that. In a Catch 22 - have the lift cables installed, but can't install the safety release cable until I can release the safety catches. Will have to wire and prime the pump to move the carriages, then finish up the safety cable release.
Also have to work out an anchoring setup for the floor plate - nothing provided except a couple of holes in the plate. Thinking about a bracket that clears the cables and bolts to the foot plate.
Also have to work out an anchoring setup for the floor plate - nothing provided except a couple of holes in the plate. Thinking about a bracket that clears the cables and bolts to the foot plate.
Lift is now operational.
With the ceiling still in place, I can get 49" of clearance. Just enough to roll under.
Still thinking about the roof. Basically I'll get plenty of clearance to get the cars up 73" by putting in some collar ties 36" above the existing ceiling (well into the upper 1/3 of the rafter locations) and plating off the exposed rafters with OSB. I may also decide to slide one of the existing joists over to the joist in front of the right post (middle of the shop) and turn that rafter/joist pair into a giant truss to support one end of a 4x12 ridge beam for insurance. But pulling out 3 joists should not really cause any stress on the roof. We're at about 7 lbs sq/ft and adding OSB under the rafters would add 2 lb sq/ft, total around 9. Basic design load is 10 and we don't get snow loading here. No storage over the lift area either (not now and won't be any room later) so no live loading.
At a minimum, would lose these joists - maybe cut the left most one loose and slide it over to the left to double the next one. If I do a beam, I might take out one more on the right. It's close to the door of a car up on the lift.
With the ceiling still in place, I can get 49" of clearance. Just enough to roll under.
Still thinking about the roof. Basically I'll get plenty of clearance to get the cars up 73" by putting in some collar ties 36" above the existing ceiling (well into the upper 1/3 of the rafter locations) and plating off the exposed rafters with OSB. I may also decide to slide one of the existing joists over to the joist in front of the right post (middle of the shop) and turn that rafter/joist pair into a giant truss to support one end of a 4x12 ridge beam for insurance. But pulling out 3 joists should not really cause any stress on the roof. We're at about 7 lbs sq/ft and adding OSB under the rafters would add 2 lb sq/ft, total around 9. Basic design load is 10 and we don't get snow loading here. No storage over the lift area either (not now and won't be any room later) so no live loading.
At a minimum, would lose these joists - maybe cut the left most one loose and slide it over to the left to double the next one. If I do a beam, I might take out one more on the right. It's close to the door of a car up on the lift.
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Sorry, missed seeing your question!
My floor was only sorta-flat, so the posts did wobble just standing there - but only a little. The lift came with shims in the box and I had several left over. The worst spot on any post had 3 thick ones under it. The rest were between none and one thick+one thin.
The method I used was to gently jam a couple of small pry bars or small screwdrivers under the plates and adjust with a rubber mallet until plumb. Then drill three holes in a sorta-triangle format, drive in the anchors, shim as needed, torque the nuts "good-n-tight" then re-check plumb. Then drill the rest of the holes and shim as needed.
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GLTHFJ60
Well-known member
Paying close attention to this install. Considering doing something similar in my shop.
ms fowler
Well-known member
Falcon67, I would not use OSB in a structural situation as you proposed above. Use plywood. OSB depends on the adhesive for its strength; plywood utilizes the strength of the wood fibers. Better.
Would not be using OSB as anything structural, just covering up open spaces/insulation. If I use any plywood, it'd be 1/2 stuff for access panels since it's lighter than OSB. I might use it under the rafters since it's about 17 lbs less weight per sheet than OSB. 15/32 ply here is about $5~6 more per sheet than OSB.