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Design aspects Questions.

imjustdave

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 9, 2014
Messages
204
Location
Sumner WA
In the Designing phase Basically a 44X50 box. 16 tall I think.

Doors
2 14x14 Garage doors on the 44 end South wall.
Do I center or push to one side?
Somewhere on the East 50 side I need a man door towards the house.
Do I put it on the corner or put a room in the corner and have the door near it?

West wall is just to the fence 5 feet away.. do I put a door there?
long walk around with the main garage doors closed, literally opposite
corners of my main walk in door.
could be nice when parking and getting into the garage... but less secure
too.

My power will also come in here at this corner... debating if I want
end of garage, door, power or
end of garage, power, door... or
end of garage 3-4 feet then power and or door.
OR maybe I run the box to the back away from the meter.

North wall does go to a small backyard but again security over convenience, and the 1 door I for sure need isn't far away.

I know I mention security, reckon I'm paranoid vs have an issue..just don't want to invite an issue if that makes sense.

Windows...
I know I want some light, figure up high would be good and not block storage space inside. Where did you love or hate your window placement?
Cool ideas to open them when up high?

Rooms?
Would like to add a bathroom, assume most put that at the rear of the garage away from the big doors, but maybe I should use that space up near the door, and leave the back open...

Office would be cool but not required.

SO ....
What are things you wish you did differently?

It could be anything I'm all ears on this.

utilities, power, drians, Lights, electrical.

Door placement changes, space between big doors.
Wish a room was ?
Wish my compressor or lift was here not there.
 
Last edited:
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Craig Balzer

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 21, 2005
Messages
863
Location
Colorado Springs
Dave

You clearly have a lot of ideas, needs and desires for this garage. The fact that you have already put this thought into this plan puts you ahead of most.

A main issue you didn't comment on is the purpose of the garage. Working on autos? Wood working? Working on boats? You imply automotive when you mentioned a lift. But what specifically? Restoration? Painting? Simple tune-ups /oil changes? Fabrication?

Here is some food for thought. Lots of details -- many focused on restoration or major car work.

Plan a place to store /place all your stuff. What stuff? How is it all gonna fit? See below (sorry -- my OCD kicked in and I got pretty detailed):

GENERAL
• Build as big as you can afford/fit on your property.
• You gotta know your plan inside and out – when the builder asks to move something elsewhere, only you can visualize the impact on other things / stuff
• Be flexible when reality shows up – also be true to your overall plan
• Windows? PRO: natural light – CON: entry point for scoundrels
• Skylight(s)? PRO: natural light – CON: then no attic
• Keep the building dimensions in multiples of 4 feet -- less wastage
• A mezzanine/loft is good for long-time storage of large or awkward items; plan for where the staircase is gonna be placed; plan how to get heavy items up there and back down

FLOOR
• Gonna place light(s) in floor under lift??
• First thing down is 10 mil vapor barrier
• Then closed-cell insulation – 2 inches thick
• In-floor tubing goes in before concrete pour – plan carefully if a lift is planned. Should be thicker concrete and limited pex tubing near posts. Taken tons of photos capturing where the pex lines. Don't wanna puncture when/if drilling in the floor to mount a future purchase
• Thickness? 4” works. Except under lift: more is better
• Plan now for smoothness of finish on concrete - - epoxy covering?
• Gonna wash cars in there – floor drain(s)? Lot’s of environmental issues to learn

WALLS
• 2x4 vs 2x6 construction. A 2x6 is pennies more per board and allows thicker insulation
• I have R19 in my walls (Colorado) and the building is noticeably cooler this summer
• I have R49 blown-in above the ceiling -- yes, over kill
• Sheath with OSB vs Dry Wall. Dry wall looks prettier but to hang anything heavy requirements finding a stud or two. OSB has more industrial appearance but a shelf goes wherever you want to put it
• Windows – already covered
• Height of walls? 12 or 13’ allows most lifts to fit (I have 14’ ceilings in main room)
• Tall walls require more heating capacity, and costs more to heat

ELECTRICAL
• Plan where your 110v outlets are gonna be, then add 50% more of them (mine are 4 feet apart except where a window gets in the way)
• Are you gonna use 15- or 20-Amp circuits? (different wiring requirements and different fixtures)
• Place them 45-48” above the floor level so they aren’t hidden later by benches, toolboxes, etc
• Plan for an outlet on the exterior of each wall
• Plan for outlets in ceiling for lift or drop light or other
• Plan for outlet in ceiling for garage door opener
• Plan for outlets up high on wall: wall clock, TV, modern “smart” speakers, other
• Lights – fluorescent or LED? Dimmable?
• Plan for exterior lights – Colorado Code requires a light above each man-door opening
• Plan for exterior lights – gonna have a patio nearby or BarBQ pit or horseshoe pit or Christmas lights?
• Plan for dedicated circuit for heater
• Plan for dedicated circuit for water heater
• Now plan where circuits are gonna start. Each circuit can handle 8-10 outlets and each should start with a GFIC outlet
• Plan where your 220v outlets are gonna be. Consider welders, air compressor, lift, oven (powder coating), special tools, etc. Even if you won’t have these until the future, plan now to power them

WATER
• Gonna have a bathroom in there? A sink to wash up before going into the house is priceless. A sink to wash parts is useful
• A shower is priceless to avoid getting SWMBO’s towels and linens filthy
• Toilet?
• Hot water is nice to wash cars in the winter
• Plan a hose bibb on at least one exterior wall

A/C

HEAT
• Gonna use in-floor PEX?
• If not, propane or electric heater will need power and proper placement
• See comments re height of walls

STUFF
What toys do you have now? Do you plan to have? Sketch your floor plan to scale on gridded paper; don’t forget windows and doors. And then, to scale, place all your toys. All of them. The easy ones are toolbox(es), benches, welders, air compressor, and the like. Did you remember to ID a place to store floor jacks? Creeper? Jack stands? Ladder(s)? Trash can(?)
Find a place for place everything:

o Welder
o Plasma Cutter
o Grinder
o Polisher / Buffer
o Powder Coating Oven
o Blast Cabinet
o Parts Washer
o Microwave
o Refrigerator
o Charging station for cordless tools
o Desk lamp
o TV
o Stereo
o Computer
o Phone
o Wall Art / Neon signs
o Other

STORAGE
• Plan cabinet(s) to store hardware (nuts, bolts, washers, this and that)
• Plan cabinet(s) to store supplies, such as
FLUIDS for the car
• Oil
• Oil Filters
• Fuel Filter(s)
• Gear Lube
• Differential Lube/Additive
• ATF
• Brake fluid
• Anti-Freeze
• Power Steering Fluid
• Marvel Mystery Oil
• Starting Fluid
• Lacquer Thinner
• Grease for ball joints/tie rod ends etc

CLEANING yourself
• Hand Cleaner
• Latex (or Nitrile) Gloves
• Shop Towels

CLEANERS for the Car/Engine/Garage/Floor
• Castrol Concentrated Cleaner
• Engine Cleaner
• Brake Cleaner
• Carb Cleaner
• Rust Remover
• Brushable Rustoleum
• Degreaser
• Acetone
• Mineral Spirits

BEAUTY PRODUCTS
• Polish
• Wax
• Touch-up paint
• Chrome Cleaner

WORKING on the Car
• Di-electric grease
• Bearing Grease
• 3-1 oil
• Silicon Spray
• Anti-seize compound
• Loctite
• Teflon tape
• Acousti Seal, Exhaust System Sealing Compound
• Wellseal Gasket Compound / Gasket sealer
• Wire of various colors and sizes
• Electrical Connectors
• Masking Tape
• Duct Tape
• Electric Tape
• Contact Cement
• 3M Weather-strip Adhesive
• General Purpose Adhesive Solvent
• 3M Adhesive Remover (Ronson lighter fluid)
• PB Blaster or Kroil -or Knock’er Loose
• Wire ties
• Mechanic's wire
• Cotter pins
• C-clips
• E-clips
• Snap rings
• Hose clamps
• Roloc pads/grinding discs
• Die-grinder burrs/bits
• Buffing wheels/compound
• Razor blades
• Utility knife blades
• Sandpaper
• Emory cloth
• Scotch-brite
• Grease fittings
• Fuel line/brake line and fittings
• Rubber hose: windshield washer, heater, radiator, fuel, vacuum
• Spray paint
• JB Weld
 

matt_i

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Messages
10,726
Location
SE Michigan
To your first questions, I'd look at centering the garage doors. This opens up space down the sides for cabinets, toolboxes, benches, machines, storage. And still park a vehicle or trailer in the center.

Harden the door jamb and a door gets a lot tougher. That's a 1/4" x 5 steel plate, 2 king studs, its held in with 5" GRK-RSS screws.

 
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NUTTSGT

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Sep 14, 2009
Messages
50,949
Location
Northern Central Ohio
To your first questions, I'd look at centering the garage doors. This opens up space down the sides for cabinets, toolboxes, benches, machines, storage. And still park a vehicle or trailer in the center.

Harden the door jamb and a door gets a lot tougher. That's a 1/4" x 5 steel plate, 2 king studs, its held in with 5" GRK-RSS screws.


On the flip side for door location, if you offset the door to one side, it gives you a larger working area. However, make sure you plan it with room to work around the vehicles.



I do a similar thing as Matt with door jambs but use 11gauge or 1/8" plate. Cover it with trim or recessed, it won't be seen.
 

johnnyradiant

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 27, 2017
Messages
833
Location
Vancouver, BC
If you have enough room to use the space between the door edge and the wall and still have enough room between the vehicle and the 'stuff' on the wall that would be the determination of door placement. If shop is too narrow for vehicles, stuff and workspace, then stuff goes and adjust accordingly.

Room in corner and man door - it all depends on your definition/desire for the 'room'. Is the room big enough to serve as a foyer as well as it's other intended purpose? Do you want to be able to enter from outside to go directly to the 'room'? Do you want physical distance from entry points to the 'room' for an extra bit of time to respond to an alarm. I have a tool 'room' in my shop I wanted it as far away from entry points as possible so that I had every second possible to try to prevent a grab n go.

Bathroom placement is determined, like all others, in my cavern between the ears, on use of bathroom. Is it going to be used primarily from within the shop or from outside too? Basically in the most out of the way spot feasible, sorta like a compressor. But if it may see a fair bit of use from outside of the shop you may want it at least close to your man door to prevent a need from traipsing through the entire shop to get to.

That's how I would prioritize initial planning on those items, but all bets are off as to their locations being set in stone as the design process is fully fleshed out.

I put in a skylight for lots of natural light without compromising flexibility with my wall space, and to maintain a higher degree of security over windows in the walls. It's a too small for me woodworking shop. If I had it to do over again I would have put in an additional one and I would have tried to get the clams in the budget for opening ones. Sweating the details during construction can give you years of hassle free life out of a skylight without leaks, even here on the wetcoast.
 
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