Design help or ideas

[Weazer]

Is there anyone who is design savy? I've procrastinated long enough and I need to build a new shop and move my stuff out of the shops at my parents place so we can sell the house and shops. The pic attached is the layout I'm thinking will be the best, in red. North is up, right now its planned as the long part being 40x64x14 and then that smaller part either 20x30x12 or 30x30x12. The smaller part will be for like parking my truck, detail/wash bay, etc so we don't need the ceiling height. Plus we thought that might tie into the house better? There will be an over head door facing the drive pointing south.

The long part I can't decide if I want the 2 overheads facing the house on that 30' eve side. or put them on the gable side facing south? That would require a big section of driveway to curve around and meet the original drive vs just adding a new strip up along the east side.

That's the short of it for now. If its hard to understand I'll see if I can draw up a sketch. Just looking for ideas or how would you do it if it was your place? I have a builder, we are suppose to get together next week to go through some ideas. I am a bit limited to that location, but I can move it a little, the black dot is the power transformer, that is going to get moved and I can buy however much footage from the neighbor I need along that west side to push it away from the house if need be.

 

[Weazer]

Here is a rough sketch if it makes more sense now?

 

[racecougar]

Intended use? Location (overhead doors with Southern exposure in a hot climate won't be particularly ideal)? Do you need vehicle access at the Northwest corner (will you work on vehicles in that corner)?

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

You sketches are far too simple (lacking dimensions) to evaluate or make many suggestions.
For efficiency I would recommend making it rectangular and keeping the roof/ceiling the same throughout.

 

[TurnipTruck]

Location?
Do you have to deal with snow/hurricanes/HOA/weird soils?
Pole barn or stick built or red iron or formed tube or CMU?
Termites?
Second floor?
Self built? What are your construction skills?
Rainwater runoff constraints?
Budget?

 

[Weazer]

I'll try to get another sketch this evening. Location NW Ohio. Will have to build the pad up, I run a sand and gravel operation and my neighbor runs a excavation company so we will have the pad and drainage taken care of.

It will be a pole barn, concrete floor, liner panels, electrical, and heat and ac to deal with the humidity. I dont have time to build it, so it will have to be up to the builder for pretty much total construction. The guy I'm talking to currently is justpolebarns.com and he's local.

Use will be mainly for my cars. Currently i have 4 of them plus my truck. My tractor and side x side. The real issue is my 20ft flatbed trailer. I'm just not sure where to put that.

North West corner the one person asked about. A small mezzanine. And hopefully a small deck outside on that north end to shoot from.

Ill check back later with another sketch, back to baby sitting.

 

[Weazer]

Small update, looks like the shell will be 40x80 with the 20x30 on the side.

Other than using graph paper is there a app that we can use to place things like vehicles and such so we can figure out where to put stuff inside? That's gonna help us decide where we want the doors.

 

[nadogail]

Make scale cutouts of the things you plan to put in your shop and begin to move them around on a floor plan drawn to the same scale.
You will find that playing with those Paper Dolls is a lot easier than moving real things.
I was able to help my wife plan the furniture arrangements in our new home. Almost everything was able to stay in the same spot we set it in after unloading the truck.
I discovered this as we planned a move in 1985.

 

[b.lucky]

Sketchup has a free version that will help you.

I built 32x48 because that was as big as the lot would allow. I wish I had the space for a lean to on the side to keep the trailers out of the weather.

 

[Weazer]

Thanks guys, i tried the fbi website and that's ok just can't rotate the vehicles. I'll prolly do some cut outs.

 

[Weazer]

Finally had some time to figure things out. Attached is a preliminary of the outside and inside layout. Outside is kind set in stone due to location, but the inside can be moved around and bit. Let me know what you think and critique as necessary. Not sure on the window placement yet. And some of the dimensions aren't exactly like they should be.

That far back empty corner will be a small seating area, fridge and such.

 

[ddurrett896]

My only advice is that I wouldn't build the garage around the existing concrete, but build the building I want. That L design with different roof lines complicate things - can you just build a single rectangle?

 

[Weazer]

A single rectangle would be tuff/more expensive. You can't see it in the house pictures but that north west corner needs 3 to 4 foot of fill to get it level ad the further I go north the more I need. The further south towards the road is the same way. That small section will be my wash/detail bay. Plus where I'll park my truck.

I re measured yesturday and I'm gonna pull the building to the south about 10 ft. So I'll have to cut both of the end sections of the driveway out. That will make the south edge of the shop even with the south edge of the house and gain us a bit more view of the woods off to the north west.

 

[Weazer]

Finally a big update! Prices for the building, concrete and insulation are in. I will try to attach the drawings later, but I'd like to get some opinions on if these prices are out of line or normal.

Building is 3800sqft with a 14ft wide wrap around lean too. I'm at 165k. This includes the 4" floor, solid 28ga wall liner through out, a dividing wall with sliding door between the two sections, 3 ovh doors without openers, 3 man doors, and 6 lower windows and 8 transom windows. He needs to add on the 6" gutters yet. He didn't quote me very good overhead doors so I'm getting quotes from a few local door company's so the price may come up a bit for those.

Insulation is 2" closed cell on the walls and 15" of blown-in in the ceiling at $13850

Heated floor with two mini splits for AC/humidity control is between 35 and 40K, I'm limited to propane so we figured this would be the most efficient.

Now I need to figure out the electrical which I have no clue about and get a price from the neighbor for the excavation of the pad. From the quotes Ive got and the people I've talked too, these prices are right in the middle if not lower end for ourr location in Ohio. I'm wayyyyy over what my projected budget was, the building is also bigger, plus the lean too. so it all ads up.

 

[racecougar]

At a glance, the building cost seems cheap, the insulation seems reasonable, and the climate control seems high. That said, you really need to get multiple bids, as prices vary wildly based upon your location.

 

[Weazer]

Thanks. The building contractor is the 3rd bid, he's in the middle price wise. But, he can do some of the more custom touches and has a concrete crew as well. Some of the other places build the shell and then leave you to do as you wish. I need the whole thing built due to my time, skill, and health issues.

 

[AC-WC]

For that size and options you're pretty dang close.

 

[larry_g]

You mentioned a mezzanine. Make sure that you plan this into the building, even if it is not put in first thing, so that you have supports and footings as needed to support it. Way to many threads on the forum about the problems adding one into the existing building. If you look at my build below you can see that extra poles were added into the building and a truss set was turned into rafters to support the mez, that was built at a later date. I did this as the money wasn't in place to build out the mez and dividing wall all at once.

A second look at your plans I see you may already have this covered.

lg

 

[Weazer]

Thanks Larry, didn't think about that. I will bring that up to him. We've kinda dropped the mezz for now since we added the lean too. But, I'll make sure I mention it in case I want to add it in the future.

 

[Weazer]

Thoughts on a floor drain? I can have them, we don't have much for rules where I live. For what little washing I'll do in the smaller room I'm not sure its worth it or not. Like alot of things it looks like a love it or hate it type of thing.

I'm trying to get an electrical wants/needs for the electrician now.

Also, for those of you that have wall mounted pressure washers what would you do different? I'm planning to have both hot and cold ran over to the corner where it's going to go.

 

[AC-WC]

I would do a floor drain if you're parking any cars in there. The amount of spalling on my floor from the cars is horrible. Maybe not throughout the shop but at least where you pull in for overnight storage. A small rinse or squeegee is a great option for your area. I would do the long rectangular drain not the small round ones.

 

[Weazer]

Anyone here have interior wainscoting? I'm thinking the all white liner panels might be too much. But I want it bright.

 

[racecougar]

It would be a waste, IMO, unless the building is going to remain relatively empty.

 

[Weazer]

You might be right, I'll prolly have enough junk covering the bottoms of the walls anyway.

 

[Craig Balzer]

I added wainscotting to my 2300 sq ft hobby shop.
Waste - benches, cabinets, stuff blocks most it

Still building benches and populating the garage
Go Pack GO

/
/
After 3 years in the shop:
Can't see much of it -- approximately the angle of view

 

[Weazer]

Ok thanks guys, I've decided it's going to be all white liner panels except for part of the one wall by the bathroom where the fridge, TV, and stuff will be. Like a small seating area. I'd like to do some type of reclaimed wood on the lower half, but man that stuff isn't cheap either, lol

 

[larry_g]

Wainscotting was originally in buildings to provide good protection for the lower walls, not a decoration. So if you need the structure in the lower walls for mounting things then go ahead. Otherwise I'm with Craig, something decorative that soon disappears behind stuff.

lg

 

[Weazer]

Ok, looks we are going to sign papers this week. I'm excited, but i still have a few interior questions.

We are wanting, well I should say the wife is wanting a seating area with a reclaimed wood wall. I've been looking into the wall boards and most of those are 1/4" thick. Does that wall need to have plywood put in first to give the wall boards something to attach too or something else? 14ft ceiling but will prolly only go 8ft high and then white wall liner above.

Also, I'm putting in an ARblue pressure washer and probably a deionizer set up. How did you guys run your hose bibs in the wall, out of the wall, height, etc?

Thanks

 

[egdede]

My wife wanted a reclaimed wood wall after her cousin moved in a house with one. It looked a dusty mess to me. Her cousin agreed, it couldn't be cleaned to her standards and they ripped it all out.

Now to answer your question: You can install that over drywall. Just hit the studs : )

 

[gahrajmahal]

Ok thanks guys, I've decided it's going to be all white liner panels except for part of the one wall by the bathroom where the fridge, TV, and stuff will be. Like a small seating area. I'd like to do some type of reclaimed wood on the lower half, but man that stuff isn't cheap either, lol

Reclaim it yourself by picking up free pallets and take them apart. Its good fun for the Mrs., kids and grandkids. A pallet place by us has crates of cut offs free for the taking with the sign, Free Firewood. Also look on Craigslist for free lumber. You might have to rip some of it down to thickness, but that is the excuse for buying a decent table saw. If you start now, you will have your stack of material by the time your garage is finished.

 

[dcg9381]

My wife wanted a reclaimed wood wall after her cousin moved in a house with one. It looked a dusty mess to me. Her cousin agreed, it couldn't be cleaned to her standards and they ripped it all out.

Coat the wood. It'll get rid of the dust.

 

[Weazer]

Ok guys major update finally. Posts are up, plumbers are done, well had to repair the main power to the house after they tried to cut through the underground, and we are now waiting for the concrete guys.

But, what do you consider an acceptable variance for post locations? I understand the spacing wont be perfect, but if the post spacing says 8ft for this one door way and they are over 2.5 inches under 8ft. All of my big doors are too skinny. 1.25 inch on both the 14ft wide doors, 2.5 inch on my 12 ft wide door, and all of 2.5 inch on my 8ft walkway between the two rooms. I dont want to nit pick so I'm just trying see what is acceptable.

 

[racecougar]

Is this a post-frame building, or was it built on a foundation/stem wall/pad? If it's the latter, the distances you're describing are indicative of rather poor workmanship.

 

[Weazer]

Sorry, post frame. When I get a few extra minutes ill post some pictures.

 

[Codyboy]

Ok thanks guys, I've decided it's going to be all white liner panels except for part of the one wall by the bathroom where the fridge, TV, and stuff will be. Like a small seating area. I'd like to do some type of reclaimed wood on the lower half, but man that stuff isn't cheap either, lol

Yeah reclaimed wood is not cheap, at all. Nor is it easy to get and very laborious.
I have an old house on my property whare all the walls and ceiling are 1x8's.
I own it and could reclaim it. I tried. Good lord those people used a lot of nails!
900 sq ft house probably built in early 1900s.
Hasn't been lived in since the 60s.
I still plan to do it and like you I wanted to have it where the bathroom and sink is in the shop.
Heck even the corrugated roof is in decent shape and would like to have those old rusty panels.

 

[CraigStu]

You lose me here. "... and they are over 2.5 inches under 8ft. All of my big doors are too skinny." What? Anyway, standard garage doors fit up against the inside surface of the wall. If your door is too wide, no big deal within 2-3 inches. If the door is too narrow, nail on another 1X or two to narrow the opening. Then use wider outside trim.

 

[Weazer]

Maybe I phrased it wrong, I have four door openings, two 14ft wide, one 12ft wide and one 8 ft wide. The two 14s are 1.25 inch too narrow, the 12 is 1.25 inch too narrow, and the 8 is 3inch too narrow. Yes I realize the doors overlap on the inside, im just asking if being off between 1.25 and 3 inches is acceptable?

 

[Codyboy]

What did the builder say when you asked about it?

I don't think it would cause an issue with the doors themselves as they will sit on the inside of the framing. It's just that The opening itself is a little narrower.

My 16' doors have a finished opening of 15' - 10 1/2" at the stops.

 

[Weazer]

The project manager has been avoiding the question. I havnt brought it up to his boss yet. The one thats 4.5" too narrow is just a pass through between the 2 rooms so its not a big deal its just kind of the point. The main outside doors are 1.25 narrow which is fine.

 

[Weazer]

Do you think the normal steel white liner pannel will be ok for a light wash once and awhile? Im planning on having a floor drain in this 20x30, most of my washing will be outside, but in the winter it would be nice to be able to wash inside every once and awhile. The room will have heated floor and a 14ft cealing.

I price the duramax pannels and for the 8ft tall ones with the trim he has me at around $2700 for that room. Just not sure its worth it?