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Designing 2nd Garage, Looking for some Feedback

DriftlessOne

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Mar 21, 2018
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Location
Minnesota, USA
So, I am starting the planning process on a 2nd garage and was hoping to get some feedback on a few things. The overall garage is going to be approximately 56x36 with three 12'x8' overhead doors and a man door.

1. What kind of floor reinforcement do you suggest for a lift? I am thinking of going with the Bendpak HDSO14P with bridge jacks. The ceiling will be vaulted (10/12 pitch), so it should be plenty of room for lifting a vehicle. Can the overhead door tracks be made to follow the angle of the vaulted ceiling? I would think that would be ideal with the lift to keep the space above totally clear.

2. I am thinking of a foam car wash in one bay. Has anyone done this before? I don't like the idea of spraying water and getting water mist everywhere, so thinking foam would be the way to go. I am thinking I could just have some kind of curtain system to pull around that bay to protect the walls and with a vaulted ceiling I shouldn't have to worry about it getting wet. Speaking of which, I am considering polished concrete floors with stainless strip drains in each bay.

3. Outside I plan to have a 12' deep porch roof on one of the 36' walls with a concrete pad underneath. I would like to put a wood boiler out there and store split wood for the boiler on the porch. I am thinking of doing an in-floor heat system tied into the boiler as well as propane. My builder says he can do controls that will automate between the wood boiler or propane, so I have the option of feeding the boiler or not and will still have heat. Do you think in-floor is enough by itself, or should I have forced air as well?

4. I am thinking of putting in two stainless deep sinks. One at the center of each 36' wall. We live on about 40 acres and I hunt it. I want to be able to butcher deer and have a nice sink for cleaning meat.

5. I want all LED lighting and I want it bright in there. The vaulted ceiling will change the approach. Any thoughts on the best way to go on this?

6. As far as the construction, I am thinking of doing 3-4' high concrete walls around the perimeter, with stick framing above that. The reason for thinking this is I have a toolcat and track loader with lots of implements and it would be nice to be able to park the implements right up against the wall without having to worry about crushing sheet rock. Outside I would fur out from the concrete wall (spray foaming everything) and I am planning to do the entire exterior in stone (going for an old stone barn look), so the concrete wall wouldn't be visible from the outside.

I'm sure there's lots I've missed explaining, but this is a start. Any input is very much appreciated!
 
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CraigStu

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Blacksburg, Va
" Can the overhead door tracks be made to follow the angle of the vaulted ceiling? I would think that would be ideal with the lift to keep the space above totally clear."
Yes they can. A friend did exactly that. But, check w/ the door opener company about what motor you will need. W/ normal vertical to horizontal tracks, the door actually gets lighter as it goes up because more and more of it is just being pulled horizontally. But w/ an angled track the motor has to lift the entire weight of the door all the way up.
 
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DriftlessOne

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Joined
Mar 21, 2018
Messages
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Location
Minnesota, USA
" Can the overhead door tracks be made to follow the angle of the vaulted ceiling? I would think that would be ideal with the lift to keep the space above totally clear."
Yes they can. A friend did exactly that. But, check w/ the door opener company about what motor you will need. W/ normal vertical to horizontal tracks, the door actually gets lighter as it goes up because more and more of it is just being pulled horizontally. But w/ an angled track the motor has to lift the entire weight of the door all the way up.

Good to know, thanks!
 

Fuelboat

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Sep 18, 2015
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What about a room to sit and relax, bathroom with shower. I have Bigass lights and fan in my 20x30 shop, really like them but a little expensive
 
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DriftlessOne

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Mar 21, 2018
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Minnesota, USA
What about a room to sit and relax, bathroom with shower. I have Bigass lights and fan in my 20x30 shop, really like them but a little expensive

I will for sure have an area to sit and relax in there. Bathroom/shower really isn’t too important as I have that in the main garage and it’s right across the concrete apron, so I think it would be a little redundant and more to clean.

Overhead fans are a good idea.

I want lots of good light too. I was actually thinking does anyone make a giant “soft box” LED light system for garage ceilings? It would be ideal for cleaning and detailing my cars.
 
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66Caprice

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Stanwood, Washington
whatever the manufacturer says. 14,000 pounds is a lot, but it's spread out.

Not just a normal floor. But a 4000 PSI rated floor is what Bendpac
recommends for a 14000 pound 4 post lift.
It is something you need to make sure who ever does the floor is
using the correct PSI rated concrete...
 

Bert_

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NW Iowa
I don’t have anything taller than that to get in there. I suppose I could go taller just in case though. I’m not hard set on 8ft doors, that’s what I have on the main house garage.

At least frame for a larger door. Then if you ever change your mind it's not a big deal.
 

lakeroadster

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Central Colorado
So just a normal 4” thick slab then?

Thanks for the input!

whatever the manufacturer says. 14,000 pounds is a lot, but it's spread out.

Not just a normal floor. But a 4000 PSI rated floor is what Bendpac
recommends for a 14000 pound 4 post lift.
It is something you need to make sure who ever does the floor is
using the correct PSI rated concrete...

BendPak's FAQ page specifies 4" thick 2500 psi concrete for an HD-14..

Do I need a special floor or foundation to support my new lift?
 
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astroracer

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Jun 22, 2005
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Mid_Michigan
"The overall garage is going to be approximately 56x36 with three 12'x8' overhead doors and a man door."

What side are the doors going on? I always recommend keeping any overhead door at least 4' off the inside of the shop wall. That will mean at least 4 1/2' off the outside corner.
Keeping the doors off the inside wall gives you room for benches, storage and actually opening car doors when parked in the shop...
Mark
 
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DriftlessOne

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Mar 21, 2018
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Minnesota, USA
"The overall garage is going to be approximately 56x36 with three 12'x8' overhead doors and a man door."

What side are the doors going on? I always recommend keeping any overhead door at least 4' off the inside of the shop wall. That will mean at least 4 1/2' off the outside corner.
Keeping the doors off the inside wall gives you room for benches, storage and actually opening car doors when parked in the shop...
Mark

Definitely a good thought.

They are going on the 56’ Wall. This is the exact same setup/size I have on my main house garage and I have gobs of room for workbenches and opening car doors. Only difference in the main house garage I don’t have a vaulted ceiling. I put in some stairs on one side and have a storage room in the entire upstairs of that garage. So that stairway takes up some room in the main garage, but will not be in the 2nd.

My daily driver is a 2018 Raptor. As wide as it is I can park it next to my wife’s car and we can both have our doors fully open with probably 5ft still in between the ends of the doors and plenty of room on the sides for the workbenches I have in there.
 
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DriftlessOne

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Mar 21, 2018
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Location
Minnesota, USA
That's good. The 12' doors definitely help in the spacing department don't they?

Heck yeah. When I was getting ready to build the house I remember staking out the ground where the doors and garage walls would be. I originally had 10ft doors. Doing a dry run in my truck and I knew right away 10ft wasn’t going to cut it. Expanded to 12ft and very happy I did.
 
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