I got the size limits from the county on what I can build. So I'm going with a 24x40 or 26x40 depending on if I'm allowed to remove an extra tree. The garage can't be taller then 15'. I want to put a two post lift and a 4 post lift in so I can store a car under the 4 post. I also want to be able to lift my F250 (with 2inch lift kit) and be able to stand under it. How tall can I make the walls and still keep within the 15' limits. I would like some kind of loft or attic to the front of the garage where the door will be also. Is the 15' height limit going to kill what I want to do?
Detached Garage size questions
- Thread starter jeostang
- Start date
rattle_snake
Well-known member
A 'flat' roof will give you the most interior height for lift. Could get 14' wall/top plate with no attic space. 12' is just about enough to stand under most trucks. Doable but maybe not the look your after. Also depends on location, snow load, etc.
K'ledgeBldr
Well-known member
Where in the "usa" are you building?
What is the actual definition of the height requirement/restriction? There are two "general" definitions- one is "overall" height, the other is a mathematical equation based on a couple different factors.
From there, there are almost endless possibilities.
What is the actual definition of the height requirement/restriction? There are two "general" definitions- one is "overall" height, the other is a mathematical equation based on a couple different factors.
From there, there are almost endless possibilities.
I'm building in MD, here is want the zoning office sent me.
Property is zoned R-80 (one family detached residential). Requirements for a detached garage are as follows:
30% lot coverage (anything with a roof & drivable surface)
2’ side & rear setbacks
15’ max height (grade t0 mid-line of roof)
Must be located behind the rear house line
Garages must have driveway access
Accessory structure cannot be larger than the main house.
Homerr
Well-known member
A flat roof will give you around 14' interior. But the mid-roof definition can net you a taller area in the center if you stick-frame the roof.
2level
Well-known member
A 4:12 roof pitch should allow for over 12' 6" clear height with standard trusses. Can you build it with a 4:12 roof?
38Chevy454
Well-known member
Flatter the roof, the higher interior walls can be. Do you have snow load that needs to be considered? You are probably best to talk with an architect and go with a custom design using a vaulted roof type construction. I don't think you will be able to have any attic space, if you want max interior height to allow for standing under your truck.
6768rogues
Banned
They are measuring to the mid point of the roof, so is that the average height of the roof or the height at the middle of the span? Will you be driving in on the 24/26' side or the 40' side?
Falcon67
Well-known member
You are going to want 26' deep first unless your F-250 is a single cab, assuming you may be parking in to the lifts from the long side. Our F-350 extend cab is 240" bumper to bumper and my "24 x 40" is 23' 4", so very little wiggle room. With a 15' height restriction, you may end up with the 2 post dead in the middle facing the long dimension, unless as above you go flat roof or very little slope.
Falcon67
Well-known member
A lifted 250 is very likely to be every bit of 6' tall or more, so 12 1/2 ft is likely not near enough. Also, the cab area may me long and that 12.5' will slope away quickly. I'm 5:12 and will have tight clearance accommodating a mid size car 58" tall x 16' long.
Voi
Well-known member
I'd also price parallel chord trusses besides a ridge beam and rafter built roof. Talk to a truss supplier and your builder to see how flat of a pitch you can get away with. Snow loads, roofing choices, etc. will all affect how much engineering goes into the final costs. For example, shingles should be fine at 4/12 pitch but probably not such a good choice at 2/12.
I'm not sure I understand what midline of roof means?
But let's say a 24' wide building, a 4/12 pitch means 4' of rise assuming a standard gable roof. A 2/12 pitch means a 2' rise and that much more sidewall height.
I will be driving in on the 26' side. I think the Midline is the middle between the eve and peak, I have to confirm that tho.
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Note that a suspension 'lift' on a truck does't require a taller ceiling when using a 2 post lift. A lifted truck will just have the tires closer to the ground but the bottom of the body will be the same as a stock truck.
That said you should probably lift it some more and run bigger tires.
That said you should probably lift it some more and run bigger tires.
Note that a suspension 'lift' on a truck does't require a taller ceiling when using a 2 post lift. A lifted truck will just have the tires closer to the ground but the bottom of the body will be the same as a stock truck.
That said you should probably lift it some more and run bigger tires.
LMAO, didn't think about that. I want to lift it more, but wife doesn't like it now.
75gmck25
Well-known member
The way that code is worded is the same as what I have in Alexandria (VA).
My understanding is that you measure that 15' height to be no higher than the vertical mid point between the peak of the garage and a line level with the soffits, so you can go quite a bit taller overall than 15'.
Bruce
My understanding is that you measure that 15' height to be no higher than the vertical mid point between the peak of the garage and a line level with the soffits, so you can go quite a bit taller overall than 15'.
Bruce
Voi
Well-known member
Let me see if I understand. A 24' wide (gable) building with a 4/12 pitch and 10' sidewalls (let's pretend the soffits are even with the top plate of the wall for this example) would have a midline height of 12'? That would be the midpoint between the sidewalls and the roof peak, more or less.
I hope so, I've seen lots of garages built in my county above 15' to the peak.
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
A steel frame will give you the most interior height. Built-up columns/rafters with steel purlins will allow you to install your lifts in between the column lines.
BamfordsGarage
Member
I'm building a garage now with similar height restrictions...
Specifically, 14'-1" maximum height. This is measured in one of two ways: to the peak if roof slope is 4:12 or less, or to the midpoint (between peak and eave) if the slope is 5:12 or greater.
I chose 5:12 parallel-chord trusses as in Post 12 above for maximum height. In my case the interior height, slab-to-peak, is 15'-3".
The building footprint is 28'-6" wide and 29'-0" deep (constrained by maximum lot coverage % and clearance on one side to the property line and on the other to a buried gas line).
Interior wall height on the short sides is 9'-5" with room below for 8' high doors.
Of note about those 5:12 parallel-chord trusses...
One can purchase overhead door tracks that follow the 5:12 pitch of the ceiling to preserve as much as possible of all that glorious indoor volume.
P-C trusses are weaker than flat bottom and scissor trusses because of their minimal height in the centre — here in Edmonton, AB our snow load is such that these trusses must be on 16" centres instead of 24", thus a significant increase in cost.
Specifically, 14'-1" maximum height. This is measured in one of two ways: to the peak if roof slope is 4:12 or less, or to the midpoint (between peak and eave) if the slope is 5:12 or greater.
I chose 5:12 parallel-chord trusses as in Post 12 above for maximum height. In my case the interior height, slab-to-peak, is 15'-3".
The building footprint is 28'-6" wide and 29'-0" deep (constrained by maximum lot coverage % and clearance on one side to the property line and on the other to a buried gas line).
Interior wall height on the short sides is 9'-5" with room below for 8' high doors.
Of note about those 5:12 parallel-chord trusses...
One can purchase overhead door tracks that follow the 5:12 pitch of the ceiling to preserve as much as possible of all that glorious indoor volume.
P-C trusses are weaker than flat bottom and scissor trusses because of their minimal height in the centre — here in Edmonton, AB our snow load is such that these trusses must be on 16" centres instead of 24", thus a significant increase in cost.
Attachments
Sure looks that way to me. Seems it's measured at the midpoint.
Voi
Well-known member
That's the way I visualized it when you first posted this thread and that picture seems to confirm it.
So for a 24' wide gable at 6/12 pitch you could have 12' sidewalls and a peak height of 18'.
Same 24' gable at 3/12 pitch you could have 13.5' sidewalls and a peak height of 16.5'.
Both of these calculations are bases off line drawings and don't account for framing member thickness, etc.
Will the truck be going on the four-post lift or only the two-post?
Voi
Well-known member
Or what pitch you're willing to pay for.
13.5' walls and a 30' gable span is going to be tough with the 15' midline requirement.
Again, not account for framing thickness or anything that would put you below a 2.5/12 pitch.
Having the truck on the two post will help.
I'm not sure if it has been mentioned yet but there is one poster here on GJ who has his lift between trusses on a wide span, maybe like 8'. Then purlins span over the top of the trusses. I believe he is in a high snow load area.
That's typically a cheaper way to get a lot of room for a lift, although not as straight forward to insulate.
FordTruckWench
Well-known member
That 30% limit is the total of all impervious surfaces/items. The garage, house, and driveway together can't exceed 30%, i.e. you can't add a garage covering 30% of the parcel.
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
My garage is 28' wide, has a 15' height restriction. I built it with 10' walls, 4/12 pitch, used scissor trusses, and I have a 9' lift on one side and can lift my 4wd truck up and walk under it. I'm 5'11"
rburke65
Well-known member
The less pitch of the roof, the higher the side wall.