Detailing an engine

[GeorgiaHybrid]

Does the CD2 look like a film on the engine. I ask becasue I have tried the Griot's version of this and it ended up like a plastic hard finsih that after a couple days started cracking. Ended up looking like a hard clear candy coating on it that was cracking and not to mention before I sold it never did completly remove all of it what a pain it was for me.

It's more of a resin based dressing. Like I said, spray it on the plastic and rubber, let it set for 15 or 20 minutes and buff most of it off to a matt finish. Once you are at that point, crank the engine and go for a drive. it will set up hard, not attract dust and look just like the factory finish. I have been using it for years on a LOT of cars and have never had a problem with it "cracking".

If you let it dry after spraying it on, it will dry to a shine and it may crack. I have never let it get to that point.

 

[CUSTOMMANCAVES.COM]

Yep,

It's amazing how the rest of the engine compartment is still dirty and the engine looks just like it has been pulled and rebuilt......

By the way, did you also use the "braided fuel line in a can" concentrate and the wiring harness renew spray?

Nope...everything done in-place.

 

[BlindViper]

1. Purple Power - 100% straight
2. Rinse Thoroughly
3. Dry Thoroughly
4. Stoner Trim Shine

I use purple power too but be careful around alum it eats it a little bit.

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

Nope...everything done in-place.

OK

The alternator is another unit, even the pulley is different on it. The water pump went from being painted blue to silver at the least if not replaced. The power steering pump all of the sudden became white, the valve covers lost the breather cap, lost the writing on top and in the process were re-painted.

Continuing on, the fuel line was replaced, the belts were replaced and the wiring was replaced. The number 2 plug on the driver's side bank has been pulled at the minimum if not replaced (writing on the plug is in a different place). The valve cover bolts have been replaced, The alternator bracket and bolts have been pulled and painted or wire brushed, the alternator belt adjustment bracket and bolt are changed and I picked up on all of that in just a few minutes.

If you look at the engine compartment behind the engine, is still dirty. This thread was about CLEANING and detailing an engine and engine compartment, not replacing parts and repainting the engine......

I realize that sometimes you will need to paint parts that are too far gone and I don't have a problem with it as long as you are upfront about it....

Either way, the engine looks nice but the inner fenders and firewall are crying out for help.....

 

[CUSTOMMANCAVES.COM]

OK

The alternator is another unit, even the pulley is different on it. The water pump went from being painted blue to silver at the least if not replaced. The power steering pump all of the sudden became white, the valve covers lost the breather cap, lost the writing on top and in the process were re-painted.

Continuing on, the fuel line was replaced, the belts were replaced and the wiring was replaced. The number 2 plug on the driver's side bank has been pulled at the minimum if not replaced (writing on the plug is in a different place). The valve cover bolts have been replaced, The alternator bracket and bolts have been pulled and painted or wire brushed, the alternator belt adjustment bracket and bolt are changed and I picked up on all of that in just a few minutes.

If you look at the engine compartment behind the engine, is still dirty. This thread was about CLEANING and detailing an engine and engine compartment, not replacing parts and repainting the engine......

I realize that sometimes you will need to paint parts that are too far gone and I don't have a problem with it as long as you are upfront about it....

Either way, the engine looks nice but the inner fenders and firewall are crying out for help.....

1. New alternator
2. New (aluminum) water pump
3. PS Pump removed & painted machine gray
4. All brackets powder-coated
5. Breather cap replaced with correct hose.
6. Removed decals from valve covers.
7. Cleaned valve covers, no paint.
8. Same wiring, just re-routed.
9. New plugs.
10. New valve cover bolts.
11. Correct alternator bracket installed.

You said I removed the motor. I said, no, I did all this detailing with the motor in place.

Any more questions?

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

That should do it!!!! If you did all of that with the motor in place, great job!

Thanks....

 

[Dan Metzler]

Warm up engine first then use Mean Grean (Dollar General) which is cheaper and has no acid like simple green. Use it straight or 50/50 depending on how dirty. After pressure washing off, mist entire compartment with a quick detailer (spray wax) while still wet. Close hood and let run until hot. Touch up with a microfiber towel and your done.

I have tried the trim shine and tire shine but makes everything to "greasy" and attracts a ton of dust.

Sorry no pics as I have not done mine yet this year.

 

[W_KY]

So simple green is safe on the plastic components/covers? Mine isn't that dirty, mainly just dust and such. Its a 07 Corolla Thinking I will:

1. start engine and let run for minute or so
2. spray with water
3. soak in 50/50 mix of simple green, staying away from the alternator and let sit running for 2 minutes
4. Hose down
5. Let run for 5 minutes

That sound reasonable?

What about for just keeping the black plastic shiny under the hood? I have a truck that is brand new that isn't dirty at all yet. I hate to use something that is just going to attract more dust.

 

[c_mccann]

Befo'

Afta'

It's amazing how that alternator and power steering pump changed with a simple cleaning...

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

So simple green is safe on the plastic components/covers? Mine isn't that dirty, mainly just dust and such. Its a 07 Corolla Thinking I will:

1. start engine and let run for minute or so
2. spray with water
3. soak in 50/50 mix of simple green, staying away from the alternator and let sit running for 2 minutes
4. Hose down
5. Let run for 5 minutes

That sound reasonable?

What about for just keeping the black plastic shiny under the hood? I have a truck that is brand new that isn't dirty at all yet. I hate to use something that is just going to attract more dust.

Don't let the engine run more than a minute or 2.

Cover the air intake (and alternator if desired).

Soak it with a 50/50 mix of your cleaner and water. Good tip from another member, mix with hot water.

Brush the really dirty areas with parts brushes, old tooth brushes or whatever will fit the area you need cleaned.

Rinse the engine off with a hose (no sprayer to increase pressure, all you want to do is a low pressue rinse.

Blow off the excess water with a leaf blower or your compressed air.

Crank and run the engine until dry.

 

[Dolfan]

Well I can't say this was from just a 50/50 mix of hot water and Simple Green , but a lot of that was involved from beginning to end.

Before

After

It's starts with "I need to change the intake gasket!" and the next thing you're saying is "The pistons and cylinders look OK!"

 

[Call me the Breeze]

Simple green, purple power, mothers aluminum polish, armor-all, windex, steelwool, carb cleaner, wax, Q-tips!
View media item 5547View media item 5545View media item 5546

 

[gabeancounter]

Just remembered this thread yesterday while cleaning up the engine bay on the truck. Really enjoy looking at all the clean engines again. Here is my 06 Tundra 105k miles.

 

[tomsteve]

one suggestion i have, is to do it when the engine and engine is cool. i put my car on the ramps and spray the underside too.

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

Just remembered this thread yesterday while cleaning up the engine bay on the truck. Really enjoy looking at all the clean engines again. Here is my 06 Tundra 105k miles.

Nice looking engine bay......

It's nice to see that bean counters are just as **** as I am..

 

[35mm]

I use tire foam.

Soak the entire engine bay with it, draining the entire can.

Let it sit, and just before it dries out, hose her off.

Works for me

Not bad for 21 years and 150k miles eh?

Love the SHO intake.

 

[gabeancounter]

Nice looking engine bay......

It's nice to see that bean counters are just as **** as I am..

lol...yes, I am pretty **** retentive, but I can always come here to feel normal.

 

[00pewter]

2000 GMC Sierra Z-71 5.3L V8
This was taken about a week after the engine was cleaned. She had about 130,000 on her when I replaced her with my Super Duty
I wish I could have gotten the decals for the shroud replaced. How embarrasing!

Wet engine
Spray with 100% Purple Power
Let sit for 5 mins
Wash off
Protect with Keystone Blue

 

[gabeancounter]

nice job 00pewter!

 

[A29]

Easy to keep clean with plenty of space around it

 

[winnipegtibook]

Just saw this - looking to clean the engine bay on two volvos ('04 xc90, '06 v70) after a messy Canadian winter.

Stupid question about the no-wash tire cleaner. Do you apply it on a rag and then to each little engine bit, or do you simply "foam" it everywhere? I have never done a engine dressing and just a bit nervous.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[ambenz]

I have a lot of bling mods in my engine compartment so I have to clean it carefully.
No simple green to hurt the waxed covers, no tire foam to mess up the paint.
I try to keep it out of the rain but I do drive in the rain once in a while.
The pure carnuba I use, keeps everything pretty clean...I wax all the painted surfaces.
I use Aerospace 303 on all the plastic and rubber, and that usually keeps it clean enough to just wipe down with detail spray when needed.

I really need to do something with the rusty exhaust manifold!!!

 

[Square2.0]

good looking mustang you have there.

Yea if your going to use a detail spray, spary it on a rag then wipe down the part. I try to fold the rag that way once one part gets dirty I can flip the rag around and have a clean area again.

If you are using a spray type cleaner and just spray it on the engine you will get overspray on things you don't want the cleaning chemical on. When putting it on a rag try to stand down wind of the car or hold the rag very close to the bottle of product your using.

No point having a very clean engine bay if you have damaged all the paint around it.

Good luck

 

[Lotek]

Just a suggestion, if you have any driveability issues or leaks, get them fixed before cleaning the engine and spraying slime everywhere. The dirt is a diagnostic tool and the water and shiny **** can add to or create additional problems. The used car dept. detailer at the shop is good for at least 1 misfire a month.