detatched garage addition...

[ebstein]

I have a 22x24x8 detached garage in addition to the garage attached to the house which is the same size but with 9' ceiling..I can't get my truck into either garage with the plow on cuz the garage doors are on the 24' walls, so I'd like to add on to the detached garage.. Doing the framing and making the building look good isn't an issue.. I'm having an issue with what the concrete will look like...should I be worried about the transition from the old floor to the new? I really only need 2' but was thinking of going 8-10' bigger so I'd have 30 or 32x24..
Any ideas are greatly appreciated..thanks, Bryan.

 

[ebstein]

Bttt......
this is a pic of the 22' side...if I added on this way, I'd have to move the driveway....so I want to add onto the front, just a few feet....so I'd then have a gabled end to the road..

 

[38Chevy454]

Just make sure to tie into your existing slab. I have seen drilled holes horizontally into the existing slab and epoxy in rebar studs, about 6 inches in. This helps the new slab addition from shifting relative to the old slab. Real concrete experts can provide what they recommend. Also add as much length as you can, 20 ft is better than 10 for not a whole lot more cost, just the extra concrete, wall and roof length.

With your orientation it will cost a bit more to adjust the roof for gable, but that is less trouble and would look better than changing the driveway entry.

 

[shaune]

I added on to my 2 car, added another stall out the back.
The concrete wasn't an issue. Drill into the existing pad maybe 12", pounded rebar into the hole and left 2 feet sticking out. The rebar in the new was tied to 2 feet sticking out. Dug under the old pad a bit so the new concrete would flow under. Kinda guessed on the height of the old pad to new.....came pretty close. Nothing the tool box won't roll over.

 

[Red05GT]

We always use the rebar pins in tying concrete pours together to prevent sagging
or heaving. We never even epoxy the pins in. We don't see lateral movement which
would tend to pull the pins out. We just screed the concrete off to the edge
of the existing slab and try to match the concrete finish texture to the old concrete.
Bigger is better. You'll never say I wish I had only built on 2' instead of 8'.

 

[lupinsea]

When adding new concrete to old I haven't seen any specs that don't require epoxying in the rebar. Typically what I see from the engineers calls out something like this:

1) drill hole for the rebar splices X" deep
2) blow out the hole with compressed air and long nozzel (gets rid of dust and debris)
3) fill hole with epoxy and insert the rebar splice

Try to match the texture of the old concrete with the new one. Then take a pressure washer and clean up the old concrete.

Or, if you're really concerned about it, consider adding a topping slab to your existing floor. Though I would try the pressure washing / cleaning first.

 

[ebstein]

When adding new concrete to old I haven't seen any specs that don't require epoxying in the rebar. Typically what I see from the engineers calls out something like this:

1) drill hole for the rebar splices X" deep
2) blow out the hole with compressed air and long nozzel (gets rid of dust and debris)
3) fill hole with epoxy and insert the rebar splice

Try to match the texture of the old concrete with the new one. Then take a pressure washer and clean up the old concrete.

Or, if you're really concerned about it, consider adding a topping slab to your existing floor. Though I would try the pressure washing / cleaning first.

a topping slabs a good idea....do they do those about an 1" thick?

 

[lupinsea]

You might be able to pour on some cementious leveling compound. It's a cement-like consistency when finished but it "self levels". And it can be poured on very thin an feathered out.

If you have thicker spots (deeper pitting and such) or you need to build up the thickness then you simply do several semi-thin pours and built it up. I've not personally used this type of product but it's commonly available and often used to level basements and/or floors prior to tile installation.

One thing that I think would be good would be to thoroughly clean the existing concrete very well. As to the specifics, read whatever instructions come with the specific leveling compound you choose.

Do a little research into the leveling compound.





If you need to do an actual topping slab with actual concrete I think that would be closer to 2" thick. Again, this is something you'd need to do some research on. Maybe pour the new floor 2" higher than the existing floor, then add a 2" thick topping slab to the old floor. Or however thick that would need to be.

Again, I'd ask around and do some research on good ways of doing a topping slab and what specifically you'd need to do.

 

[ebstein]

yesterday a buddy of mine came over to look at my garage......I have decided to add a lean-to to the back of the garage that will be 6*24....bringing the total length to 28'*24...there will be a lam board going across, and I'll have two posts 4' from the walls cuz the max span of the lam board is 16'...
the end wall height will be at 6' cuz I'm gunna follow the roof pitch which is 4/12..
simple and gives me what I need @ 1/4 of the price of building new....

 

[Rich1028]

here is what I started out with.
30' deep 24' wide

and heres the addition
30x30

http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/album/552273669pRmfOX?vhost=home-and-garden

slideshow
http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/slideshow/552273669pRmfOX