detched garage - simple heating options

[CT2012]

have a 22x20 detached garage going thru remodel. cinder block wall is insulated with r5 foam board directly against it (more as a vapor barrier than anything), then r-13 faced fiberglass rolls stuffed in the 2x4 frame. sheetrock will be forthcoming. the 8' ceiling of 2x6 joists may be insulated with r-19 batts, not sure yet. it too will be sheetrocked, however. the attic/cathedral ceiling upstairs (storage space only) is insulated with r-13 roll fiberglass. no sheetrock there.

attic is accessed via a swing-down door, which is insulated & pretty air tight. the garage door itself is also insulated, not terrific but it's pretty good. same for side access metal 6-panel insulated doors.

question is for heat--i'm out there on weekends tinkering and enjoy working on my car now & then. not often, but enough. have the opportunity to set wire now for heating (electric) in the walls. the question is what type--baseboard or wall-mounted air?

power won't be much of an issue, there will be a 50 amp subpanel running things. would prefer most economical (from an operating cost perspective, particularly) solution.

suggestions appreciated. thanks!

 

[Mike N]

Not the most economical to purchase but for something that works great at low energy usage look at mini split systems such as the Mitsubishi Mr Slim. I have a wall mounted inverter unit in a work space roughly the size of yours and it is perfect in the winter for heat and in the summer for getting the humdity and air temps down to a point that you're not sweating all over everything. http://www.mitsubishielectric.com/bu/air/products/package_air.html

 

[JimVonBaden]

I use a little oil heater plugged in. I put it away in summer. It takes my uninsulated garage from the 30s to the 50s in an hour, and over 60 in a few hours with light going. Only 1500 watts. My garage is sheetrocked and taped though.

Jim

 

[CT2012]

i have one of those things too (kenwood portable sealed oil heater--it is terrific) but dunno if it's safe to leave it in there continuously on. prefer something that's hard wired and tied to a dedicated circuit. eventually i'm going to move and rent out the garage, would want to offer it as climate controlled to someone who needs such a thing for their nice car(s).

by the way, i'm in the northeast, so it gets cold in winter, etc....

 

[Falcon67]

5000w - 17,000 BTU - 20A draw.

In my old 20x24, insulated R13, this unit typically would run 3-4 times/hr to maintain mid 60s temp when set on LO. Outside temp would be 20s~30s or so. About 15 minutes run time/hr. In a 10 hour tinker day, that might be 2.5 hrs. 12.5kW times your electric rate per kWh.

 

[CT2012]

THAT I like. Thanks Falcon. Will look into it.

Do you recall what kind of power it required?

 

[pattenp]

This is what I use in my 20 X 20 workshop.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_30264-49285...uctId=1082601&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1

 

[Highbeam]

THAT I like. Thanks Falcon. Will look into it.

Do you recall what kind of power it required?

He said 20 amps of what would have to be 240 volts to get 5000 watts. The orange cable feeding it is 10 gauge and rated for 30 amps which is appropriate since you want to oversize the circuit. Nice little heater with no gas fuel to leak, no poison gas worries, no exhaust pipe to poke through your roof.

 

[RCStocker]

Look for someone who is replacing a gas furnice. Here in California the old ones look brand new even after 30 years. It is dry and nothing rust and we don't have basements.

Just put the furnice up in the loft and box in an air return and set the furnice over it. Get some solid duct work Square or round and run 2 or 3 runs down the 3 walls without the door. Hot air rises and you will be taking the hot air off the top and blowing it back down to where you are. The hot air will not need as much to reheat and you will use les gas to heat your shop. A good hot air furnice should be free if you look. They are here in California. They are a dime a dozen. I have a couple of extra in a shed and would give you one if you were close. People want AC units and the furnice needs to be changedout to match the A coil and compressor. You might even find a good unit where someone has wanted to go larger. They are never very expensive used. A few hundred dollars tops.

If you get a free furnice I would put in a wall AC unit because they are cheaper to buy new and cheaper to replace and set up. The new AC/furnice units come pre charged. You just install them then vacuum them down and open them up. Any Auto vaccum pump and gages will work as long as you have the right fittings for the unit.

I have a haning furnice in my tractor barn and it blows so much heat I don't like it. You have a very small space and it would be to much for your space. A good gas furnice has a very small foot print and is only about 60 inches tall.

 

[CT2012]

Here's what I ended up getting:

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...&keyword=farenheat&storeId=10051#.UH8NYWckq8E

It's a 2k watt, 240v wall fan.

Between that and a portable 1500 oil-filled, I should be fine. Or at least I hope!

 

[dave67fd]

Seems abit costly for the 2k heat output. Is rated for 250 sq/ft. Could have bought abit bigger for your 400+ sq./ft and cheaper and use the oil filled elsewhere.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...s+electric+electric-garage-industrial-heaters

 

[CT2012]

i went with 2k max because of power limitations in the garage. this unit also has lower output settings, which is nice. pulls 1-8 amps depending on wattage.

plus, it is directed right next to my workbench, which should be more than sufficient and all i really care about.

or so i hope....

 

[Falcon67]

Let us know how it works! Looks like a nice unit and between the two, you should be able to keep things warm enough.

 

[CT2012]

thanks. operating cost was main factor, since at some point we will be moving. don't want high power costs in there just case there's a power-included garage rental arrangement (which is highly likely).