Devilbliss Model 130 air compressor

[Dieseltech86]

Found this on the side of the road. Looks super solid but I'm not quite sure what I have here. It is smooth and has strong suction and discharge. The flywheel is 18" across the face. There is a rebuild kit that comes up under the model #. Should I get it running or go for something more modern. Thank you all for any information that you may have! https://m.flickr.com/photos/26645627@N03/26500195113/ https://m.flickr.com/photos/26645627@N03/26500194153/

 

[930dreamer]

Post some pics.

 

[Dieseltech86]

 

[Dieseltech86]

To the top!

 

[Craptain]

If it works as you say then go for it. You will need a lot of extra stuff to make it complete and functional, but if you have time, money and patience give it a shot. It will not however be a cost effective project just a fun build.

 

[Dieseltech86]

Thank you kindly sir, I have always wanted a belt drive compressor and this made my heart skip a beat. I'm thinking a real 5hp motor will run it nicely. I'm always low on project funds so it'll be good to do some further teardown to see if it's actually worth putting the effort in. I'm thinking it'll do 12-15 cfm which is tons more than my Craftsman.

 

[7th Kahuna]

Please share some photos along the way.

I've been trying to decide if I want to take on a rebuild down the road a bit myself.

 

[Carla]

Found this on the side of the road. Looks super solid but I'm not quite sure what I have here. It is smooth and has strong suction and discharge. The flywheel is 18" across the face. There is a rebuild kit that comes up under the model #. Should I get it running or go for something more modern. Thank you all for any information that you may have! https://m.flickr.com/photos/26645627@N03/26500195113/ https://m.flickr.com/photos/26645627@N03/26500194153/

From the photo, it seems to be one of the common older (high quality) single-stage pumps, in the small size for 3/4 to 1-1/2hp motor, with the motor hp related to the speed at which one wishes to drive the pump.

With the head off, you can measure bore and stroke, then look up the hp/rpm specs for other makes of compressors of similar swept volume.

It may well be worth rebuilding......I've done up several of that size for friends, one time and another, and they work well for hobbyist applications, such as running a small 'detail' paint gun, or air for vehicle tires, and blast-nozzle cleanup.

What you don't know yet is the reason it was discarded. Have it apart, and check out the crankshaft and con-rod for bearing damage, as it may have had a bearing failure due to lack of oil or over-speeding, or bad bore/ring wear from running with no intake filter in a dusty environment. There's always a reasonable chance that it was discarded for no more reason than that it was replaced with a larger-capacity pump, and will be found to be in perfectly serviceable condition.......if so, you 'got lucky'....... : )

Its common to find older small pumps with nothing more wrong than worn/cracked valve discs, or broken valve springs, a simple, cheap repair if parts are still available for that model.

Added on edit.......when setting that pump up with a tank and motor, be sure to use an 'unloader type' pressure switch, plumbed in to the discharge line to the tank, as that one does not have an inbuilt unloader system.

cheers

Carla

 

[Dieseltech86]

From the photo, it seems to be one of the common older (high quality) single-stage pumps, in the small size for 3/4 to 1-1/2hp motor, with the motor hp related to the speed at which one wishes to drive the pump.
Carla

Do you think a motor that small will run this pump? If so it would be awesome because a true 5hp motor of any quality is $400+. It has a double "B" belt flywheel that is 18" across.

I pulled the head yesterday and there is crosshatch left in the bore. This is a super simple pump and I really like it for that. Added picture for size comparison. I guess it weighs around 100-120#

 

[Craptain]

Do you think a motor that small will run this pump? If so it would be awesome because a true 5hp motor of any quality is $400+. It has a double "B" belt flywheel that is 18" across.

I pulled the head yesterday and there is crosshatch left in the bore. This is a super simple pump and I really like it for that. Added picture for size comparison. I guess it weighs around 100-120#

I think that motor would be too small. However it depends on what you are going to use it for. Personally I would be going with the biggest single phase motor you can find at a reasonable (to you) price. Go with 220 volt motor if you have it available.

A smaller motor and light use would work, but a larger motor along with correct speed will work better and allow heavier use. A lot depends on what you use air for and how much you use.

Go ahead and strip the bottom end and if all is well use it.

 

[Carla]

Do you think a motor that small will run this pump? If so it would be awesome because a true 5hp motor of any quality is $400+. It has a double "B" belt flywheel that is 18" across.

I pulled the head yesterday and there is crosshatch left in the bore. This is a super simple pump and I really like it for that. Added picture for size comparison. I guess it weighs around 100-120#

I may have to confess myself mistaken, having assumed from the photo that yours is one of the common smaller size of single-stage pumps.

If you would measure the bore and stroke dimensions, and post them here, it would be a simple, easy bit of research to let you know what hp of motor would be needed to run your compressor adequately, using the published ratings for that size of single-stage pumps of other 'standard' makes.

cheers

Carla

 

[Dieseltech86]

I measured the bore at 3" and the stroke at 4". The crank ball bearings look ok from what I can see through the block window and the rod has no perceptible vertical play and maybe .005-.010 of side to side on the journal. There is some sludge in the bottom but I'd guess that is normal especially if neglected. Can't wait to tear this thing all the way down and clean er up. The rebuild kit is $139 but I really don't think I'll need the whole kit. I can get the head only hit for $59. The oil slinger was quite a surprise, I was thinking more along the lines of a scoop type on a lawnmower. The ring just hangs in a groove on the crank and spins in the oil. The ring appears to be made of a hardened bearing type material. Sorry for the poor pic, I had to shine a light in there.

 

[Carla]

Alright, with the bore and stroke dimensions you've provided, we can tell that your compressor is the 'next size larger' than the common small ones.

I don't have a DeVilbiss spec sheet available, so I just used the 'cubic inch displacement' of your pump for a comparison with another best quality make, the 'Quincy'.

A Quincy model 216 is very close to the same actual 'swept volume', or 'displacement' as is your DeVilbiss. The 216 is a two-cyl single stage pump, with shorter stroke and smaller bores, with each cylinder displacing half of the swept volume of your single cylinder. The smaller, lighter pistons and shorter stroke appear intended, in theory, for a higher standard rpm in service.

The hp rating for the Quincy 216 is 1-1/2 to 3, depending on the speed the pump is belted for, given as 400 min., and 900 max.

I've set up a few of those old 'single-thumper' compressor pumps, one time and another, and personally prefer to belt them up for 'just a little above' the manufacturer's minimum speed, which, in the case of your DeVilbiss, might be 320-350-ish.

The reason for running such a pump at min. speed is both to preserve the rod and gudgeon-pin bearings, as well as may be, and to minimise heat at the head, for a max. run time before the head has to come down for cleaning and valve disc replacement, with disc/seat lapping-in as needed.

One really must use oil specified for compressor duty, as the usual automotive engine oil will carbon-foul the valve cages in a surprisingly short length of time. (I've cleaned out some compressor heads which were so densely fouled with carbon deposits that the valves were totally disabled, and I literally had to chisel out the hard carbon. I'd think that such a level of carbon deposits would have been from a combination of automotive oil, and the heat from running at max. rated speed, combined with never changing the oil.)

It seems most plausible that the min. speed is specified to ensure that the oil-rings adequately throw the volume of oil needed to create the 'oil-mist' needed to keep the lower end properly oiled.

I'd think that, if you could get one of the older, best quality electric motors, 1-1/2hp should adequately drive your pump at 320-ish rpm, with the tank pressure switch set to 100 psi. max. (the pump is rated for 150 psi, but it would get really hot if it were set up to be driven to that pressure in regular service. That max. pressure rating assumes intermittent duty, with time allotted for cooling.)

Note that the 1-1/2hp figure assumes the older style of 'heavy-duty' motors.......with the 'ratings game' or 'tin-can' motors commonly available today, a 2hp will be required for the same level of service.

cheers

Carla

 

[Morey]

I just found a Devilbiss 130 at the scrapyard I’m fixing to see what it will do

 

[Morey]

Also can somebody identify this air pump I need to order some rings for it I do not know where to order them or what brand of pump this is

 

[MacMcMacmac]

This is a Campbell Hausfeld VS series. Parts may be a challenge. Try master tool repair.