Dewalt chop saw

[CraigStu]

I have been waiting for this to go on sale at Lowes.
https://www.dewalt.com/products/pow...nd-multi-cutter-saws/14-355mm-chop-saw/d28710
My desire is to mod it a bit by removing the spring or installing a weaker one. I would like to be able to clamp in a piece of flat, angle, square steel, start it cutting and walk away from it. I know there are band saws for this but my small one from 30+ years ago isn't quality enough to make a good 90 degree cut on it's own. Like this;
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200659143_200659143
A better band saw would be a lot more expensive than this chop saw. Have any of you used one of these or similar?

 

[speed bump]

Unless you are cutting thick or big material you aren't going to be at the chop saw long enough for that that to make sense.

If you are set on doing it I'm going to bet you are going to want some weight in addition to a spring that barely holds it up (remember it's a pain to load material if you have to hold the blade up).

 

[liliysdad]

I don't think chop saws work the way you think chop saws work.

 

[paredown]

Been a while since I did much fabrication, but the tool of choice for what you are describing is a power hacksaw. Set and forget, it saws through and pops up when the cut is finished. I see a few used ones on eBay, but I don't know where you would find a small new one....

 

[kaymccampbell]

One of those cast iron weights, that people pump iron with, will pull the handle down hard enough to leave it to cut on its own. A concrete block will work, too, but is kinda bulky for your purposes.

 

[The Cobbler]

with no spring and pressure on it, the blade (motor) is very likely to start a bouncing action that will lead to a poor outcome.

 

[beater74]

Do it! Please post vids of your results!

 

[whateg01]

A used bandsaw can be had for less than a new chop saw depending on where you are. My saw is dialed in pretty well. It takes less than 0.015" to face a 4" part in the late. I always heard a per hacksaw was better at making square cuts but I never use mine now that the bandsaw works so well.

Dave

 

[nadogail]

IMHO, I think your idea is a recipe for disaster.

May you live long and prosper.

 

[ZRX61]

I don't think chop saws work the way you think chop saws work.

What he said. I have a Dewalt chop saw like that, it takes mere seconds to cut through steel.
What on earth is so urgent that you need to go do it for 2-15 seconds or so?

 

[whateg01]

What he said. I have a Dewalt chop saw like that, it takes mere seconds to cut through steel.
What on earth is so urgent that you need to go do it for 2-15 seconds or so?

One of the reasons I abandoned the chop saw was because of the time it took to cut through heavy sections. The bandsaw is certainly no faster, but being able to walk away from it while it cuts is absolutely a plus. If you are making multiple cuts, even 2-15 seconds adds up, as well.

Dave

 

[mcbane]

The biggest problem with the abrasive chop saw is that after only a few cuts the blade is 13”. Then its 12”. Then its useless.

I got the low rpm carbide version. No need to walk away during a cut, and after hundreds of cuts the blade is still 14”. And no need to spend time grinding slag off the cut. It is clean and square as soon as the saw is done.


Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[Daedalus]

IMHO, I think your idea is a recipe for disaster.

My thoughts exactly. Let's leave an un-affixed, jury-rigged, hand-operated cutting tool powered up, in motion and unattended. Maybe he'll get lucky and the first thing it cuts after the stock vibrates free and the saw flips over is the power cord.

 

[spudley]

I tried cutting some 1/8" x 1.25" walled pipe on my cheapass chinese chop saw with an abrasive blade.

After a few tense seconds, I got out the Milwaukee Sawsall with a Milwaukee metal blade and an old wooden miter box. A few minutes later I had 20 little pipes.

 

[CraigStu]

Well thanks for the guidance guys. I was doing youtube yesterday looking at reviews etc and found there are cold cut saws that make much better cuts and put out nearly no sparks. I was surprised at the amount of sparks these put out. I am starting to think maybe these saws w/ the carbide blades would be a better tool. The blades are $100+ for the 14 inch sizes so also looking at smaller ones. I also realize that my idea of being able to walk away probably isn't needed. One vid had a guy testing 3 saws on a 2x2 1/8 wall square steel tube. The cold cut was much faster than either the abrasive cutoff or his horizontal band saw. Apparently the key to these is the 1500 or so rpm w/ a lot of torque vs abrasive, radial arm, etc which are usually in the 3000-3500 range. So I am going to keep researching. Thanks again.

 

[Gotcha640]

Is there a particular project you're buying this for? If you require 90 degree cuts, not 89.5 or 91, this is not the saw for you. Any saw with a quick release angle adjustment will not do it.

It's great for the price, made a roll cage and barbecue grill frame and smoker parts, from 1/8 flat bar to 0.25x3in fence pipe to 1 inch drill rod.

All our welded projects have been loose fitup, tack, square, weld out.

 

[iamrfixit]

A dry cut saw will have a much better vise that's built right into the saw table. Steel has gotta be held solid, if the material moves while being cut the blade can quickly bind and catch. The piece can fly out pretty violent and ruin the blade in an instant. Had it happen once trying to angle cut a piece of 2" angle iron. Took several teeth off the blade, broke the guard and flipped the whole saw backwards, almost went right off the table. On top of running too fast and not having the torque, wood cutting miter saws don't have a vise at all. Only an add on clamp that's really only made to hold flat boards not odd shapes.

I have a Milwaukee dry cut saw, don't think they make it anymore. Take a look at Evolution brand saws, they seem to be getting popular and cost is considerably less than most major brands.

The dry cut saw works a lot better than an abrasive saw for most things, but it can be kinda picky, the blade is expensive and can be pretty fragile if you use it wrong. If I had more room I'd rather have a bandsaw. If I had more money or did a lot of fabrication, I'd have a real cold saw.

 

[csp]

I was surprised at the amount of sparks these put out.

You'd probably be quite surprised at the amount of dust they put out as well.

I couldn't stand the mess and noise of one of those saws. Found a 4x6 Taiwan bandsaw on craiglist for <$100 to replace my DeWalt like that.

 

[Ron_J]

The abrasive chop saw has its place. I have the Dewalt you linked and use it a lot, and in a lot of situations it's quicker than a bandsaw.

I've cut heavy walled 2 1/2" square tube with it, and it is slow, but I've never thought that I wished I could have left and done something else while it cut.

 

[Falcon67]

Agree with the others - chop saw not the thing for what you describe. I have the HF model 14" and it does just great at less expense. Everything on this lathe bench was cut on the orange chopper:

Have you looked here for possible updates to your common 4x6 metal saw -

http://www.mini-lathe.com/Bandsaw/Bandsaw.htm

And possibly
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/show-us-your-4x6-bandsaw-modifications.87/

USed to be a big Yahoo group for those also.

 

[Boatman62]

Cold Saw or Dry Saw is what you want. Clean and accurate cuts, no sparks. Blades last quite a while and can be resharpened.