Dewalt Miter saw differences ?? Help please

[Marctrees]

I'm getting tired trying to figure out what I gain by getting the $600 one compared to the ?newer model ? sliding $300 or so one.

Just too confusing right now.

----- My main use would be MAXIMUM crosscut at 90 for 2"x stock (0 deg plumb, all square) -----

I don't want to use a circular saw w anykind of 90 cutoff sled or bed jig.

Have been doing that.

My only other option is finding a old green speckled Dewalt radial arm from the 50s - 60's, hard to find me being rural.

OR find a GOOD circ saw w NO end play, and use w the crosscut bed/ fence jig.

I already have other power miter saws for smaller jobs.

Help please.

Thank you, Marc

 

[Marctrees]

Oh, and I have NO need for portability.

Would love it if it was 400 lb cast iron. Marc

 

[kctyphoon]

Honestly, your best bet would be to spend some time on YouTube and compare models. Only you are gonna be able to decide how your money is best spent. If you don't have a need for cordless, or a need for a 12" - then half your search is over..

If your just doing 90's then you should basically be able to buy anything.. I wouldn't drive yourself crazy. If you're set on a brand then you have even less shopping to do.. If not, and this is gonna be a stationary tool, then the only thing I can suggest is maybe think about getting a saw that has the compact feature with the rails if it's gonna be a slider.

 

[Rarified27]

I've posted my below review of the 709 in a few places. After using the 780, 779 and 709, I have a good perspective on all three.

Review of 709:

Unless you're just cutting miter angles and slightly wider than 2x8 stock, this saw is useless.

-No bevel stops to make consistent compound cuts.
-No depth stop for consistent plunge cuts.
-No cam lock for miter adjustments, so you waste time spinning the knob that moves when you tighten it.
-No slide lock to keep the motor from sliding on the rails in transit.
-No top carry handle to help move the saw, only uncomfortable hand holds on the table sides.

Returned the 709 for the 779, which has all of the missing features above. The only difference between the 779 and the 780 is the XPS lighting system. Save the extra $200 for a quality blade to put on the 779.

 

[Marctrees]

I need to clarify - It will be used exclusively for furniture and cabinetmaking, so that's why I want "perfect" cuts.

And very rarely for any angle cuts.

Almost always just 90's.

And again, I will never be transporting it around town. Marc

 

[Locker537]

My recent purchase was a DW715. I needed it for framing and it was the best current deal. $199 on sale. Only downside so far is it only miters to 50 degrees.

 

[Camping57]

I have the 718 and with a good Freud blade it works great for glue line cross cuts. Most of my work is 90s and you can dial it in to give you perfect ones. Once in a while I need to do coupounds (legs on stools and things like that) and it is also excellent for that. I would get another one in a second.

 

[Marctrees]

Ok thanks all for responses so far.

Keep in mind, some of these model #'s are THE same, other than distributed and sold by different retailers.

Like a Lowes 779 is THE same as a Home Depot 782, or vice versa maybe.

I've done more study, and it seems to me the ONLY difference between 780 and 779/782 is the lighting system.

And from one source, supposedly difference in blade hole size.

Comments on those points PLEASE, still not all clear for sure.

Thank you all again, Marc

 

[Jbullfrog]

For furniture and cabinets I'd get a radial arm saw. Big and bulky, non portable, bit capable and true.

 

[Rarified27]

Ok thanks all for responses so far.

Keep in mind, some of these model #'s are THE same, other than distributed and sold by different retailers.

Like a Lowes 779 is THE same as a Home Depot 782, or vice versa maybe.

I've done more study, and it seems to me the ONLY difference between 780 and 779/782 is the lighting system.

And from one source, supposedly difference in blade hole size.

Comments on those points PLEASE, still not all clear for sure.

Thank you all again, Marc

HD has the 779 and yes, the only difference is the XPS light.

Never used a 782, but the hole sizes on the 709, 779 and 780 are the same.

 

[Sticks McGee]

For furniture and cabinets I'd get a radial arm saw. Big and bulky, non portable, bit capable and true.

Agree!!

Sorry if I get off topic on your post. Just wanna make a couple points.

If you are making cabinets and furniture and you have the room to set up a radial arm, I would try to find a good used one. Let's say you were building some tall bookshelves (6' +) and they were 12" deep the radial does a nice job of cutting these and with a stop block you can cut all of your matched length boards perfectly and repeatable ( I know with a miter saw you can set up a station with a stop block too) Now let's say you wanted to cut a rabbit at the top or bottom of the side pieces and/or dadoes in the sides somewhere, you can set the radial up with a stacked dado blade and do those very well on the radial (something I don't think you could do on the miter saw) I have always said if I had the room I would employ a radial arm saw just for these very tasks. I had a very nice old used one I found at a yard sale that I bought for $50. and old craftsman. At the time I was with my second wife and lived at her place. The garage was too small to really set anything up and for those reasons I ended up selling the saw before I ever even really used it. I am kicking myself now because I have the space.

That being said, last year I bought a 12" sliding miter (hitachi) and I love it. Other than cutting dadoes it does everything I want it to do. I paid $400 for it and I am very happy with it.