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DF T1-11 Siding Staining

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tlmartin84

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Apr 23, 2012
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West Virginia
I have, it held up fine but you have to stane it every 3-4 years to keep it in good shape. OH YEAH prepare to buy a **** load of stain because it ***** it up. I have log siging on my house, stain went 3 times as far on the siding vs. the T1-11
 

tlmartin84

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Apr 23, 2012
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West Virginia
Stuff I used the first time was "Outlast Q8 log oil" on it. It works great and is sprayable, next time I am going to use Sikkens, far better product.
 

draglink

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Jul 2, 2006
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Hayes, Va
I stained mine witha latex stain first....looked great....lasted 4 years. Last year I went over with the same color latex paint
 

Kevin54

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Jan 12, 2005
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If you are using T1-11 outside you do not want to paint it. The paint will peel rather quickly. Stain it and be done with it for a few years. The stain will wear away where as paint will peel.
 

1949 caddyman

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Arizona
I used a solid color stain on my shops T1-11. I probably re stain every 7-9 years, no pealing. I used Bear stain from HD. Shop is 20 years old and in dry Arizona.
 

Camper

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Apr 21, 2011
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NE Pa
If you are using T1-11 outside you do not want to paint it. The paint will peel rather quickly. Stain it and be done with it for a few years. The stain will wear away where as paint will peel.

Why do you say this or should I ask what makes it peel quickly. Stained my shed over 10 yrs ago and it held up well. I am getting ready to paint it as I want to do a lighter color but now you have me wondering if this is a bad idea.
Could you please explain as I do not want to paint my shed and regret it later.

Thanks
 

Kevin54

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Just as with almost any wood, if it isn't sealed on the backside as well, it can push the paint off. Paint will basically lay on top of the wood, whereas stain will penetrate. In my dads neighborhood, quite a number of houses had redwood siding. When they were built, paint was the only option. Every house would peel. People would scrape, prime, paint, and they would still peel. One older gentleman told my dad back then that if he wanted to go to the trouble, paint the backside of the siding to stop the peeling. My dad removed the siding, painted the backside with some aluminum paint that he had, rehung the siding, then repainted the house. He only had one or two small places that peeled after that and it was up in the gable ends.

I've watched people paint their decks, only to start peeling a year or so later. When you stain, you only have to do it maybe every five years depending on your climate.

Camper....if you stained it 10 years ago, stain it again, using a solid color stain. You may have to go over it twice, but a solid color stain will last longer than any paint you put on.
 
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wnstwolf

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Nov 7, 2007
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New York and PA
I used Sherman Williams Stain product and is holdoing up great. Only thing is you will go through a boat load. T-111 is a sponge! I rolled it on then bakbrushed it. Don't do lower half then come back and do upper half or you will have streaks. Try to do an entire section at once keeping the work area wet as you go to minimize the streaking issues. Wore case you may need 2 coats?
 

regguy1

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Dec 15, 2009
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On Mount Olympus with Zeus
definatly use stain, don't use anything with linseed oil base it will get black mildew on it over time. mold spores in the air feed on the organic linseed oil and grow, turning into black stains. (voice of experience)
 

VHF

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Oct 27, 2008
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420
Location
NW Wisconsin
Took me several tries to find the right stain to get the look I wanted. Because the T1-11 ***** up so much stain (about 3X the normal rate), I ended up using a transparent stain to get a semi-solid appearance. Tried for a red cedar appearance. Bought at Menards, don't remember brand. This summer will be 3 years and it is still looking good. Might not have to re-stain until 5-year point. I brushed mine on.

With new T1-11, either let it weather for 6 months before staining or power wash and let dry for at least 3 days before staining. Otherwise it might not absorb the stain properly. I think it has something to do with the tannins naturally present in the wood keeping the stain from fully penetraiting.

Only issue I have is the nails are starting to leave rust streaks. I should have asked my builder to use SS nails, but didn't think of that at the time! I wonder if a little clear fingernail polish would keep the nails from bleeding?

Overall, very pleased with the look of my stained T1-11. (Just say "no" to vinyl siding!)
 

customcab

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May 25, 2006
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115
Location
Terra Hote, Indiana
I've had it on my house in central Indiana since we built in 1977. I've restained the house twice up thru 2006 when we added on. (same siding on addition) We changed house colors and restained whole house then. The initial staining DID take a lot more material, but after that it's not as thirsty. One coat covered the older existing siding whereas it took 3 coats on the new stuff. One tip I would offer is to brush the sawdust off the new siding before you try and stain it. I used a fairly stiff brush. I used a Wagner Power Roller because I like to get a lot of product in the siding when I do it and I paint the grooves seperate with a brush, as I go, to get plenty of stain down in the groove and seal up the edges. (tried a sprayer, but didn't get NEAR the coverage) Pre-cleaning the siding keeps all that loose sawdust from getting stuck in the roller. Keep each verticle strip 'wet' all the way down. If you don't it'll show as an edge later when it dries. I've had really good luck with Olympic solid color stain bought at Lowes.
Funny that when we added on the contractor tried to get us too go with horizontal vinyl siding. We just like the different look of verticle siding as opposed to the more common horizontal vinyl. Hope this helps ya a little.
Good luck, Phil
 
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captain14

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Dec 19, 2012
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Near College Park Maryland 20740
Bringing an older thread back to live for a couple of questions.

I power washed my shed (T1-11) siding and got a lot of dirt and mold off it.
Now some of the old existing stain is starting to peel off . My feeling is to take a scrapper and remove that. Correct?

And what can I use to kill the green(mold?) off that did not come off after power washing it? It's been Two days after washing, so right now it's just drying now.

Thanks in advance.
 

RickP

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Jan 15, 2013
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Annapolis, MD
Bringing an older thread back to live for a couple of questions.

I power washed my shed (T1-11) siding and got a lot of dirt and mold off it.
Now some of the old existing stain is starting to peel off . My feeling is to take a scrapper and remove that. Correct?

And what can I use to kill the green(mold?) off that did not come off after power washing it? It's been Two days after washing, so right now it's just drying now.

Thanks in advance.

I wouldn't use a scraper on the rough surface - try a wire brush instead. We used bleach and water to get rid of the mold on our cedar siding. Deck wash works even better.

When you re-stain, add a little mold killer to the stain before you start.
 

Tdbo

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Dec 20, 2009
Messages
166
Location
Central Ohio
Have a Amish built T-11 shed that I purchased in 1996.
Have stained every 3-4 years since purchased.
Started with a Cabot opaque stain and have been using a Pittsburgh Paint stain for the last three repaints.
I do not seem to be using the amount of stain now that I originally did. In the early years, it was a 2 gallon job. Now, I can do it in a little over 1.
Roll it on with a thick nap roller, it is a 2 hour job for my 11x14 shed.
Staining is really the only way to deal with T1-11.
 

RickP

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Jan 15, 2013
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Location
Annapolis, MD
thanks for the responses

any brand name for mold killer?
I usually just buy the paint additive they carry at Home Depot, which comes in small single-use disposable packets. I'm not sure if the brand makes much of a difference, as long as it's got some kind of herbicide or fungicide in it - I'm not really sure what's used to kill mold.
 

Nowater

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Nov 29, 2011
Messages
744
Location
Southwest Florida
I have T1-11 on my garden shed which I painted with the same paint used on the house (Sherwin Williams). It looks fine, and isn't peeling. What am I doing wrong?
 

captain14

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Dec 19, 2012
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Near College Park Maryland 20740
Ok that's fine , I will look or ask for the additive. I wire brushed it tonight after work. Got
I did get a lot of the loose debris off the front which was the worst.

A couple of small trim repairs To Complete also while I am working on it.
 
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