Above 1200 Sq/FT DFB's Garage
- Thread starter D.F.B
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
customh
Well-known member
I'd say you've already answered the "what was he thinking" question-
A: His head is installed that far into his own rectal cavity OR
B: The ONLY other possible answer is "no such thing as bad publicity" -I just can't make sense of this because it seems like so many people were clamoring to buy his stuff- maybe he wanted to rope in the other "elite" YT detailers to make them want to prove his "best/first" claims wrong? His attempts to defend the action and being surprised by the backlash tell me "A" is the right answer. I mean here we are talking about it but I'm almost certain neither of us have any plans to buy any of it.
Cdubu52
Well-known member
I totally agree with your view of that situation. When I first started dipping my toes in the detailing pool, Pan's videos always came up. I bought a lot of my early chemicals and tools based on watching his videos or his "awards" videos. I felt like he really got in bed with Turtle Wax for a while there and I was suckered into buying a lot of cheap chemicals that just were never as good has he made them out to be. Granted, they were cheap, and a good bang for the buck. It opened my eyes to how a sponsor can sway the discussion. That being said, I only catch a few of his videos now. And that is only through searching for a certain product and his video may be the first to come up. I saw exactly what you did in the fact that his videos became more of a talk about something, rather than actually showing the product, and how to apply it. I had already moved away from his content and then the self promotional product reviews hit and I havent been back.
I know a lot of his Youtube friends were sent product to review for free, which as we know, just buys a good or "pleasant" review.
Someone also suggested that the initial batch of products was small, so in effect, sold out really quickly and paints a rosy picture of how successfully it launched.
As for "no such thing as bad publicity", to me that is just PR speak for "we screwed up but don't want to look like we are bothered by it." And that applies to every business, because why wouldn't bad press be bad? As for Pan, you are correct, its certainly category A playing out here, see below for why......................
He was indeed in bed with Turtle Wax. In fact, he got caught on the hop by taking money from them in exchange for "reviews". Think to the tune of 10's of thousands of dollars for each review. Now, its his business if he does this, and good on him for monetizing his position in the detailing world outside of actually cleaning filthy SUV's mini-vans. But he was telling everyone how fantastic Turtle Wax products were without disclosing that it was in fact a paid product placement. Well, someone found out, all hell broke lose and Pan went into damage control. Likewise playing the victum. See the pattern here?
You will notice that his later videos have disclosures in the video description and before the video starts.
As for Turtle Wax, where do I begin? After seeing some quite positive comments from my peers at Autogeek, I decided to see try a couple of key products that were garnering praise.
It's hard to fully describe how terrible those two products are. The tire cleaner certainly cleans well, but it smells absolutely vile, and the stench hangs around for hours after use. The foaming trigger means you burn through way too much product per application................so you end up buying more sooner. The tire dressing I found hard to achieve a uniform finish, which is undoubtably due to the acrylic formula. I also found it hard to fully remove, which you will want to do because it looks terribly patchy. And the final nail in the coffin being they are not all that cheap, even when on sale.
I actually call these products and the brand the "Alphabet Soup Products/Brand". These are the two full names for the two products above -
- Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions Hyper Foam Wheel Cleaner & Tire Prep
- Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions Graphene Acrylic Tire Shine Spray Coating
Completely ridicules! Those names are pointlessly long and over the top. I get the feeling Turtle Wax thought that if they throw as many words as possible on the bottle that it would convince customers that the products are more special than they actually are. Carpro have a similar foaming tire cleaner simply called ReTyre, says it all in one single word. While Gyeon and Carpro both sell a tire coating, simply called Q2 Tire or Darkside. Simple, effective, no bullsh.t.
I like the Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions Graphene Acrylic Tire Shine Spray Coating.
I will note, on a perfectly clean tire, it needs 2 coats to be uniform. A tire brush and some brake buster is enough to clean it off a tire.
I recently tried Adam's graphene tire coating and it gives a more clean matte finish, which i prefer, and will be switching to this.
I will note, on a perfectly clean tire, it needs 2 coats to be uniform. A tire brush and some brake buster is enough to clean it off a tire.
I recently tried Adam's graphene tire coating and it gives a more clean matte finish, which i prefer, and will be switching to this.
Cdubu52
Well-known member
I will say, I started with the Turtle Wax Ice Seal and Shine and it was a pretty good product. Especially at $10. I have since moved on and upwards, but at the time, that was a great product for me. And it was highly regarded by Pan, and many other online/youtube detailers. I am also embarrassed to admit that I fell in the Chemical Guys trap when a store opened up near me. I still like a few of their products, but that was before I really got into the minutia of detailing. I have switched over to mostly 3D and Adams. I just find their stuff more consistent and not to many items that are the same things with different labels.
quadrcr87
Well-known member
If reincarnation is real, I want to come back as one of your cars.
Ok, so WOW! What a positive experience today was. I'm very tired, but at the same time quite pumped!
It's been said that the Australian detailing industry has a severe lack of training avenues when it comes to helping upskill and further budding detailers, or even for those like me who live and breath this industry as a extreme hobby. The body shop industry certainly has avenues for training, but that is quite a different trade entirely. So for detailing, you either teach yourself, or go and work for someone who can guide you along. Me personally, up until today, I've been 100% self-taught, aided in the last decade by Youtube and online forums.
For a few years now, I have eyed off the training workshops offered by Waxit. As far as I can see, other than the occasional brand event offered elsewhere, Waxit seem to be the only ones offering such avenues for training and upskilling. The training sessions started about seven years ago with just one singular class, but it has built and built since then to the point where they now offer nine different classes several times a year, catering to the beginner right up to the pro.
Book Car Care Detailing Courses | Waxit – Waxit Car Care
The classes range from basic detailing skills and polishing to advanced polishing and detailing, basic and advanced interior detailing, ceramic coatings, authorized installer accreditation, they even now offer PPF preparation and installation workshops. Other than the PPF classes, each workshop is run by Sandro from Car Craft Auto Detailing. Not only is Sandro one of the best detailers in the country, but he also has the best Australian-based YouTube channel of the same name. I'll cover this later, but the chance to meet Sandro, someone who is highly respected in the detailing world, had great appeal too.
(3) Car Craft Auto Detailing - YouTube
For me, it was the paint correction side of things I wanted to hone. I've been machine polishing for more than a decade now, self-taught via my little Concourse Polisher that was sold via Waxit as a beginner's kit. After chatting with Sean from Waxit, he confirmed that I would be best to skip straight to the Advanced Paint Correction 202.
Book Advanced Paint Correction 202 Course Online | Waxit – Waxit Car Care
The basic class is more of an introduction to random orbital (DA) polishing, the advanced class looks beyond that to higher levels of paint correction, wet sanding and exploration of different machine types. With my leave approaching a few months ago, it was now or never, so I took the plunge and booked my spot in the latest round of workshops starting late November.
For the Advanced Paint Correction 202, the class is made up of five students, giving each plenty of one-one with Sandro. Proceedings start with usual introductions in the classroom, then an outline of the day's activities. For anyone who watches Sandro's videos, the following shots will look familiar. The Waxit warehouse is the location for the training sessions, but also the studio where Sandro makes his videos. Sandro doesn't necessarily work directly for Waxit, but works with them to deliver these workshops and help test new products and tools.
It was also great to see the inner workings of a company I have been buying from for more than a decade. I would love to work there, even if the place has a lingering scent of iron remover.
After an introduction to the pads, compounds and machines at our disposal today, it was into action. All pads today were from ShineMate, which included foam, wool and microfiber pads. Compounds were mostly Scholl, with a couple of NV and Rupes on hand too. Machines included ShineMate and Rupes, they even had a gear-driven Mille on hand.
Where the Random Orbital Clinic is taught around test panels, the Advanced workshop uses an actual car, in this case a Waxit employee's Subaru Forrester. We were then given a demo and explanation as to why taping is so important, then set about getting the car taped up. I always thought I was pretty ordinary with my taping skills, it's a job I hate doing, but it seems I did pretty well when compared to Sandro's work and the other students. Sandro, of course, makes it look easy.
After a tea break, it was then time for measuring the paint depth. I've never seen one of these in action before, and while not a 100% indication of the paint you have to work with, its an important tool for discovering potential resprays or areas thinner than expected.
Up next, a wet sanding demo on a test panel, something I have never done. In this case, Sandro went over the various methods for sanding deeper scratches and etchings that otherwise wouldn't be removed via polishing alone. Both machine and hand sanding techniques were covered, followed by refinishing the sanded section via polishing. While I would still be apprehensive, I feel like I could tackle this myself now.
That same test panel was then used to demonstrate each student's technique using a dual action and rotary polisher. This was more about showing Sandro where he could help us improve. Me? I move too quickly, which I already suspected, but its good to have it confirmed. Apart from 1-inch pads on my iBrid Nano, this was the first time I have used a rotary polisher. The machine in question was a 6-inch ShineMate battery powered machine, and as I suspected, I didn't like it. Some of that will be a lack of experience, but I didn't like how it would steer itself with even the slightest movement and needed constant adjustment. And that was on a completely flat panel, on a door with plenty of curves, it would be nightmare.
The lunch break was quite insightful too. Mainly because for the first time in my life, I had five other people in the room who were as into detailing as I am. The chat wandered from talking about polishing machines, to chemicals, to distribution and pricing concerns, and cars in general. Actually, one of the students recently had to turn down work on a brand new black Mustang Darkhorse, the paint quality was full of solvent pop and nibs that he refused to work on it and that the customer should be perusing it with Ford. While both of my Mustang's have had a few factory installed blemishes, they were nowhere near the bad stories being told today about Mustang paint, and that included Sandro.
After lunch, it was time to get on the tools. First up, a test section demo by the master. In most cases, Japanese paint, and Subaru's in particular, are known to be soft. But this car needed quite a bit of aggression to remove car wash swirls and a smattering of random isolated deeper scratches (RIDS). In the end, the combination of a 5-inch ShineMate battery machine, ShineMate yellow foam cutting pad and Scholl S2 Black was needed. Each student was then assigned to a panel to correct, then allowed to select the machine, pad and compound they wanted to use. With Sandro insisting on a 95% correction, mainly to assess our skills and ability, we were then left to get on with it. Sandro then moved from student to student to guide where needed, make suggestions.
A variety of ShineMate and Rupes machines were on offer, and it was interesting to see where others gravitated towards. One guy found the battery placement a hindrance and therefore went with a corded ShineMate. Another wanted to experience rotary. Myself, I went with an old favorite, the ShineMate EB351-15, then decided to try out some of the machines that I don't currently have. The first being the Rupes HLR75, which is their battery powered 3-inch. I also wanted to try out the ShineMate EB210 with the swappable heads. I then started with a combo I have used before, a blue ShineMate pad and Scholl S20 Black, but ended up needed the S2 and yellow pad.
One of the main takeaways for me today was that, in the past, I have probably been way too conservative with my choices of pad and compound. In this instance, what is normally a decently aggressive compound and pad choice actually finished out to near perfection as a single step when used with a DA machine. The guy working next to me did his panel with a rotary to cut, then went back with a lighter pad and polish to remove the holograms installed on the first step. I'd say his panel probably had some additional clarity at the end, but obviously required more work, more pads and more compound to achieve what I did with a single step.
After finishing our panel, Sandro then inspected our results, my panel meeting with his approval. The tape was removed and the car wiped down with IPA.
To wrap up the workshop, it was back into the classroom for a final Q&A and presentation of our certificate.
As much as anything, I think what I enjoyed most about today was being able to discuss various detailing related topics that I wouldn't always have an outlet for in person. By far the most popular topic today was machine choice and technology, especially Sandro's insight into where the major players sit at the moment. And by far, other than me, everyone gravitated towards the ShineMate machines. The Rupes iBrid was temperamental today, and while the HLR75 had oodles or torque, it was noisy and the speed control clunky. Everyone universally liked the new EB210, although I found it hard to modulate speed.
While still on ShineMate, put it this way, if you have a ShineMate or are thinking of getting one, well it seems the brand easily outshines the bigger brands for reliability and performance. And when you consider the short window of operation with the Rupes stuff, pad stall/pad sensitivity/compound sensitivity/battery stamina ect, the ShineMates just work! It also sounds like ShineMate have some new products in the pipeline that sound very promising. And on that, I noticed quite a few new, yet to be released products hanging around....................hey, I'm an observant type of guy.
On the product side, finally, I have an explanation as to why I have always struggled with the UK brands................ I thought it was only me. It would seem most of the UK stuff is based around UK climate, in other words, they just don't work in the Australian climatic conditions, ie summer heat and humidity. And finally, I have met someone who agrees Meguiar's products are massively overpriced in Australia. That also lead to a discussion on the local distribution of Rupes and Koch Chemie brands, and how poor management is simply pricing the out of the market. It was agreed that the products are great, but just too expensive. I've stopped buying GSF for that reason.
And finally, it's not often you get to meet a hero, and even less often to have that hero turn out to be exactly who you thought they were. Sandro is one of those rare hero moments. He is exactly the same in person as he comes across in his videos. He is a gentle and kind man that is a natural born teacher. It's also fascinating to watch someone at one with his craft, his movements are so natural and skillful. So when you combine that skill with natural teaching ability, you can only but learn from the man.
As everyone else left, I just knew I had to thank him for his content, that I had learned so much from just watching and listening to him. For me, what I have learnt most over the years from him has been his methodical, multi-faceted approach to decontamination. Because ultimately, those steps prior to a polisher even hitting the paint play a huge role during polishing, and the overall finished result.
I'll be honest, I did feel a bit apprehensive while polishing today. Put it this way, no one has really ever seen me using a polisher before, so I felt very self-conscious. As I watched the guy next to me skillfully complete his panel to perfection with rotary machines only, I actually felt I was struggling. Well, according to Sandro, I have the temperament and skill to be doing 95% corrections if I ever chose to follow that path. As he acknowledged, and I agreed with, that temperament can be a blessing and a curse when chasing such perfection. But the takeaway for me during this one-on-one interaction was that I was actually doing better than I thought................my natural self doubt has always held me back. So while I learnt plenty today, I feel like it also confirmed a lot of things too.
Now the question is, which car will be next in line for treatment?
It's been said that the Australian detailing industry has a severe lack of training avenues when it comes to helping upskill and further budding detailers, or even for those like me who live and breath this industry as a extreme hobby. The body shop industry certainly has avenues for training, but that is quite a different trade entirely. So for detailing, you either teach yourself, or go and work for someone who can guide you along. Me personally, up until today, I've been 100% self-taught, aided in the last decade by Youtube and online forums.
For a few years now, I have eyed off the training workshops offered by Waxit. As far as I can see, other than the occasional brand event offered elsewhere, Waxit seem to be the only ones offering such avenues for training and upskilling. The training sessions started about seven years ago with just one singular class, but it has built and built since then to the point where they now offer nine different classes several times a year, catering to the beginner right up to the pro.
Book Car Care Detailing Courses | Waxit – Waxit Car Care
The classes range from basic detailing skills and polishing to advanced polishing and detailing, basic and advanced interior detailing, ceramic coatings, authorized installer accreditation, they even now offer PPF preparation and installation workshops. Other than the PPF classes, each workshop is run by Sandro from Car Craft Auto Detailing. Not only is Sandro one of the best detailers in the country, but he also has the best Australian-based YouTube channel of the same name. I'll cover this later, but the chance to meet Sandro, someone who is highly respected in the detailing world, had great appeal too.
(3) Car Craft Auto Detailing - YouTube
For me, it was the paint correction side of things I wanted to hone. I've been machine polishing for more than a decade now, self-taught via my little Concourse Polisher that was sold via Waxit as a beginner's kit. After chatting with Sean from Waxit, he confirmed that I would be best to skip straight to the Advanced Paint Correction 202.
Book Advanced Paint Correction 202 Course Online | Waxit – Waxit Car Care
The basic class is more of an introduction to random orbital (DA) polishing, the advanced class looks beyond that to higher levels of paint correction, wet sanding and exploration of different machine types. With my leave approaching a few months ago, it was now or never, so I took the plunge and booked my spot in the latest round of workshops starting late November.
For the Advanced Paint Correction 202, the class is made up of five students, giving each plenty of one-one with Sandro. Proceedings start with usual introductions in the classroom, then an outline of the day's activities. For anyone who watches Sandro's videos, the following shots will look familiar. The Waxit warehouse is the location for the training sessions, but also the studio where Sandro makes his videos. Sandro doesn't necessarily work directly for Waxit, but works with them to deliver these workshops and help test new products and tools.
It was also great to see the inner workings of a company I have been buying from for more than a decade. I would love to work there, even if the place has a lingering scent of iron remover.
After an introduction to the pads, compounds and machines at our disposal today, it was into action. All pads today were from ShineMate, which included foam, wool and microfiber pads. Compounds were mostly Scholl, with a couple of NV and Rupes on hand too. Machines included ShineMate and Rupes, they even had a gear-driven Mille on hand.
Where the Random Orbital Clinic is taught around test panels, the Advanced workshop uses an actual car, in this case a Waxit employee's Subaru Forrester. We were then given a demo and explanation as to why taping is so important, then set about getting the car taped up. I always thought I was pretty ordinary with my taping skills, it's a job I hate doing, but it seems I did pretty well when compared to Sandro's work and the other students. Sandro, of course, makes it look easy.
After a tea break, it was then time for measuring the paint depth. I've never seen one of these in action before, and while not a 100% indication of the paint you have to work with, its an important tool for discovering potential resprays or areas thinner than expected.
Up next, a wet sanding demo on a test panel, something I have never done. In this case, Sandro went over the various methods for sanding deeper scratches and etchings that otherwise wouldn't be removed via polishing alone. Both machine and hand sanding techniques were covered, followed by refinishing the sanded section via polishing. While I would still be apprehensive, I feel like I could tackle this myself now.
That same test panel was then used to demonstrate each student's technique using a dual action and rotary polisher. This was more about showing Sandro where he could help us improve. Me? I move too quickly, which I already suspected, but its good to have it confirmed. Apart from 1-inch pads on my iBrid Nano, this was the first time I have used a rotary polisher. The machine in question was a 6-inch ShineMate battery powered machine, and as I suspected, I didn't like it. Some of that will be a lack of experience, but I didn't like how it would steer itself with even the slightest movement and needed constant adjustment. And that was on a completely flat panel, on a door with plenty of curves, it would be nightmare.
The lunch break was quite insightful too. Mainly because for the first time in my life, I had five other people in the room who were as into detailing as I am. The chat wandered from talking about polishing machines, to chemicals, to distribution and pricing concerns, and cars in general. Actually, one of the students recently had to turn down work on a brand new black Mustang Darkhorse, the paint quality was full of solvent pop and nibs that he refused to work on it and that the customer should be perusing it with Ford. While both of my Mustang's have had a few factory installed blemishes, they were nowhere near the bad stories being told today about Mustang paint, and that included Sandro.
After lunch, it was time to get on the tools. First up, a test section demo by the master. In most cases, Japanese paint, and Subaru's in particular, are known to be soft. But this car needed quite a bit of aggression to remove car wash swirls and a smattering of random isolated deeper scratches (RIDS). In the end, the combination of a 5-inch ShineMate battery machine, ShineMate yellow foam cutting pad and Scholl S2 Black was needed. Each student was then assigned to a panel to correct, then allowed to select the machine, pad and compound they wanted to use. With Sandro insisting on a 95% correction, mainly to assess our skills and ability, we were then left to get on with it. Sandro then moved from student to student to guide where needed, make suggestions.
A variety of ShineMate and Rupes machines were on offer, and it was interesting to see where others gravitated towards. One guy found the battery placement a hindrance and therefore went with a corded ShineMate. Another wanted to experience rotary. Myself, I went with an old favorite, the ShineMate EB351-15, then decided to try out some of the machines that I don't currently have. The first being the Rupes HLR75, which is their battery powered 3-inch. I also wanted to try out the ShineMate EB210 with the swappable heads. I then started with a combo I have used before, a blue ShineMate pad and Scholl S20 Black, but ended up needed the S2 and yellow pad.
One of the main takeaways for me today was that, in the past, I have probably been way too conservative with my choices of pad and compound. In this instance, what is normally a decently aggressive compound and pad choice actually finished out to near perfection as a single step when used with a DA machine. The guy working next to me did his panel with a rotary to cut, then went back with a lighter pad and polish to remove the holograms installed on the first step. I'd say his panel probably had some additional clarity at the end, but obviously required more work, more pads and more compound to achieve what I did with a single step.
After finishing our panel, Sandro then inspected our results, my panel meeting with his approval. The tape was removed and the car wiped down with IPA.
To wrap up the workshop, it was back into the classroom for a final Q&A and presentation of our certificate.
As much as anything, I think what I enjoyed most about today was being able to discuss various detailing related topics that I wouldn't always have an outlet for in person. By far the most popular topic today was machine choice and technology, especially Sandro's insight into where the major players sit at the moment. And by far, other than me, everyone gravitated towards the ShineMate machines. The Rupes iBrid was temperamental today, and while the HLR75 had oodles or torque, it was noisy and the speed control clunky. Everyone universally liked the new EB210, although I found it hard to modulate speed.
While still on ShineMate, put it this way, if you have a ShineMate or are thinking of getting one, well it seems the brand easily outshines the bigger brands for reliability and performance. And when you consider the short window of operation with the Rupes stuff, pad stall/pad sensitivity/compound sensitivity/battery stamina ect, the ShineMates just work! It also sounds like ShineMate have some new products in the pipeline that sound very promising. And on that, I noticed quite a few new, yet to be released products hanging around....................hey, I'm an observant type of guy.
On the product side, finally, I have an explanation as to why I have always struggled with the UK brands................ I thought it was only me. It would seem most of the UK stuff is based around UK climate, in other words, they just don't work in the Australian climatic conditions, ie summer heat and humidity. And finally, I have met someone who agrees Meguiar's products are massively overpriced in Australia. That also lead to a discussion on the local distribution of Rupes and Koch Chemie brands, and how poor management is simply pricing the out of the market. It was agreed that the products are great, but just too expensive. I've stopped buying GSF for that reason.
And finally, it's not often you get to meet a hero, and even less often to have that hero turn out to be exactly who you thought they were. Sandro is one of those rare hero moments. He is exactly the same in person as he comes across in his videos. He is a gentle and kind man that is a natural born teacher. It's also fascinating to watch someone at one with his craft, his movements are so natural and skillful. So when you combine that skill with natural teaching ability, you can only but learn from the man.
As everyone else left, I just knew I had to thank him for his content, that I had learned so much from just watching and listening to him. For me, what I have learnt most over the years from him has been his methodical, multi-faceted approach to decontamination. Because ultimately, those steps prior to a polisher even hitting the paint play a huge role during polishing, and the overall finished result.
I'll be honest, I did feel a bit apprehensive while polishing today. Put it this way, no one has really ever seen me using a polisher before, so I felt very self-conscious. As I watched the guy next to me skillfully complete his panel to perfection with rotary machines only, I actually felt I was struggling. Well, according to Sandro, I have the temperament and skill to be doing 95% corrections if I ever chose to follow that path. As he acknowledged, and I agreed with, that temperament can be a blessing and a curse when chasing such perfection. But the takeaway for me during this one-on-one interaction was that I was actually doing better than I thought................my natural self doubt has always held me back. So while I learnt plenty today, I feel like it also confirmed a lot of things too.
Now the question is, which car will be next in line for treatment?
littlebean
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2018
- Messages
- 752
mine please, might be a bit of a commute so make sure you bring everythingNow the question is, which car will be next in line for treatment?
In limbo at the moment. I'm trying to fit in a few gardening jobs and line up a few days to hook into my next project. But with all the rain that's been falling, that's been a challenge. I'm also exhausted again.
So, it was the perfect day to be indoors and visit the local car museum. I actually work next door to this place, but apart from before it was expanded and after an initial tour through after the renovation, I've never had the time or desire to take a proper look. Going back earlier this year, I wish I made the time because they had Marcos Ambrose's championship winning BA Falcon on display. Marcos and that car were hugely influential to me back then, seeing a Ford thrashing Holden's each race was almost a confidence builder for me as much as the driver itself. Then seeing him win the championship, well, he became a hero to me.
Anyway, when the museum was closed for renovations to expand the facility, the name was changed to better represent what would go ultimately call the place home. The M.O.V.E name stands for Museum Of Vehicle Evolution. Where previously the focus on was on cars and memorabilia, the museum now houses a range of transportation devises. The massive expansion was done to accommodate the trucking side, in effect representing the towns rich history in transportation. Upstairs, which allows visitors to look down at the cars and motorcycles on display, there is a range of vintage bicycles to look at. A separate section is used to display the history of the Furphy & Sons and Furphy Foundry businesses, which continues to operate to this day. There is also a collection of Australian clothing, jewelry, and fashion accessories dating back 200 years. This joins a bunch of displays memorabilia displays spread through the facility, with the building flanked either side by a cafe and antiques shop. The idea behind such diversity is to offer something for everyone, so if you aren't into cars, you might be drawn to the trucking side, or the fashion, or in the case of my father, the bikes.
Home | Museum of Vehicle Evolution
On top of the displays, the facility also has the ability to host functions and car club meetings. In fact, the 2025 Falcon GT Nationals Concours Event will be held there on the 13th - 16th March 2025. I actually met some of the organizers during the planning stage, let me say, they were VERY particular.
Anyway, onto the display....................
This Ford caught my eye, or more specifically, the V12 engine did...................
Next, this Elfin, which used Holden/GM running gear and, from memory, was designed by Mike Simcoe, the man currently in charge of the whole of General Motors design.
While I have seen a C8 on the road, this was the first time I have seen on up close. I think time is being kind to the C8, but I wouldn't say that I like the design, to me it just presents very generic, almost small-scale production like a TVR or Nobel. White doesn't do it justice either. The car is currently for sale, so I guess that says it all.
Seeing a Ferrari in a small country town is pretty unique.................
The gorgeous Jaguar XK engine and E-Type.................
I can't believe how big these things are! They would dwarf a modern Mustang!
I seem to remember this BMW M5 Ute featuring in MOTOR magazine back in the day and was created/commissioned by golfer Stuart Appleby’s. Certainly a unique concept.
The 427 Monaro's.....................
Never did see the appeal of these............................
This final Pursuit Ute has called the museum home for many years now, exactly the colour I would have chosen, Octane Orange................
There are also quite a few Garry Rodgers Motorsport cars on display..............
This Tucker with its rear engine was apparently imported into Australia at EXTREAM cost. Not my usual type of car, but it certainly had a lot of presence.
Naturally, the trucking side is huge! I have to say, the 50's and 60's buses look so iconic, almost from a different planet, as in, they have personality.
This truck is quite interesting, but not for the truck itself. That bull bar was made by my father, who back in the day had a small backyard-run business making bull bars for cars and trucks. Like me, he also used his initials for the business name, TFB, and I have a cabinet in the garden shed with his blue and yellow business sticker on it.
I'm not sure the details on this Mack, but it's absolutely hideous in person.
The bicycle collection housed upstairs. If you thought your fancy mountain bike with suspension is special, well this 1887 bike has suspension too...........................
Pretty much every single grade 6 kid in the area drove one these in the 80’s and 90’s. Called Careful Cobber's, these were powered by a small engine and were housed at D.E.C.A (Driver Education Centre Australia). The concept here was to introduce kids to the concept of driving, while also teaching road safety and road rules. Students were sent off in pairs, one vehicle per pair. I remember despite being nervous, I was a natural, but my partner was struggled with the concept of braking. Even Princess Diana went for a ride...................
And finally, this stunning Holden Torana spinning on the turntable at the entry/exit……………………
M.O.V.E is definitely worth a look if you are passing through.
So, it was the perfect day to be indoors and visit the local car museum. I actually work next door to this place, but apart from before it was expanded and after an initial tour through after the renovation, I've never had the time or desire to take a proper look. Going back earlier this year, I wish I made the time because they had Marcos Ambrose's championship winning BA Falcon on display. Marcos and that car were hugely influential to me back then, seeing a Ford thrashing Holden's each race was almost a confidence builder for me as much as the driver itself. Then seeing him win the championship, well, he became a hero to me.
Anyway, when the museum was closed for renovations to expand the facility, the name was changed to better represent what would go ultimately call the place home. The M.O.V.E name stands for Museum Of Vehicle Evolution. Where previously the focus on was on cars and memorabilia, the museum now houses a range of transportation devises. The massive expansion was done to accommodate the trucking side, in effect representing the towns rich history in transportation. Upstairs, which allows visitors to look down at the cars and motorcycles on display, there is a range of vintage bicycles to look at. A separate section is used to display the history of the Furphy & Sons and Furphy Foundry businesses, which continues to operate to this day. There is also a collection of Australian clothing, jewelry, and fashion accessories dating back 200 years. This joins a bunch of displays memorabilia displays spread through the facility, with the building flanked either side by a cafe and antiques shop. The idea behind such diversity is to offer something for everyone, so if you aren't into cars, you might be drawn to the trucking side, or the fashion, or in the case of my father, the bikes.
Home | Museum of Vehicle Evolution
On top of the displays, the facility also has the ability to host functions and car club meetings. In fact, the 2025 Falcon GT Nationals Concours Event will be held there on the 13th - 16th March 2025. I actually met some of the organizers during the planning stage, let me say, they were VERY particular.
Anyway, onto the display....................
This Ford caught my eye, or more specifically, the V12 engine did...................
Next, this Elfin, which used Holden/GM running gear and, from memory, was designed by Mike Simcoe, the man currently in charge of the whole of General Motors design.
While I have seen a C8 on the road, this was the first time I have seen on up close. I think time is being kind to the C8, but I wouldn't say that I like the design, to me it just presents very generic, almost small-scale production like a TVR or Nobel. White doesn't do it justice either. The car is currently for sale, so I guess that says it all.
Seeing a Ferrari in a small country town is pretty unique.................
The gorgeous Jaguar XK engine and E-Type.................
I can't believe how big these things are! They would dwarf a modern Mustang!
I seem to remember this BMW M5 Ute featuring in MOTOR magazine back in the day and was created/commissioned by golfer Stuart Appleby’s. Certainly a unique concept.
The 427 Monaro's.....................
Never did see the appeal of these............................
This final Pursuit Ute has called the museum home for many years now, exactly the colour I would have chosen, Octane Orange................
There are also quite a few Garry Rodgers Motorsport cars on display..............
This Tucker with its rear engine was apparently imported into Australia at EXTREAM cost. Not my usual type of car, but it certainly had a lot of presence.
Naturally, the trucking side is huge! I have to say, the 50's and 60's buses look so iconic, almost from a different planet, as in, they have personality.
This truck is quite interesting, but not for the truck itself. That bull bar was made by my father, who back in the day had a small backyard-run business making bull bars for cars and trucks. Like me, he also used his initials for the business name, TFB, and I have a cabinet in the garden shed with his blue and yellow business sticker on it.
I'm not sure the details on this Mack, but it's absolutely hideous in person.
The bicycle collection housed upstairs. If you thought your fancy mountain bike with suspension is special, well this 1887 bike has suspension too...........................
Pretty much every single grade 6 kid in the area drove one these in the 80’s and 90’s. Called Careful Cobber's, these were powered by a small engine and were housed at D.E.C.A (Driver Education Centre Australia). The concept here was to introduce kids to the concept of driving, while also teaching road safety and road rules. Students were sent off in pairs, one vehicle per pair. I remember despite being nervous, I was a natural, but my partner was struggled with the concept of braking. Even Princess Diana went for a ride...................
And finally, this stunning Holden Torana spinning on the turntable at the entry/exit……………………
M.O.V.E is definitely worth a look if you are passing through.
Horror Business
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2014
- Messages
- 503
Wonderful variety to the museum’s collection!
Fast_Ed
Well-known member
Hello from the other side of the globe! I’ve been following your thread for quite some time and always enjoy your updates. Congrats on the new Mustang!
I wanted to chime in and ask if you had any experience/opinion on AMMO products. Larry is fairly local to me (although I’ve never met him personally) and I’ve learned a ton from watching his YouTube videos over the years. Also much more likeable and practical than that other guy IMO
As I understand it he’s launched a partnership with a gent much like yourself to help build the brand and establish a presence in Australia. I’ve never purchased but the simplicity of his product line is appealing. Im curious how it might stack up against the more pro-oriented products you have experience with.
I wanted to chime in and ask if you had any experience/opinion on AMMO products. Larry is fairly local to me (although I’ve never met him personally) and I’ve learned a ton from watching his YouTube videos over the years. Also much more likeable and practical than that other guy IMO
As I understand it he’s launched a partnership with a gent much like yourself to help build the brand and establish a presence in Australia. I’ve never purchased but the simplicity of his product line is appealing. Im curious how it might stack up against the more pro-oriented products you have experience with.
XR8 Paint Enhancement!
Back in on the 5th of November 2014, my FG-X Falcon XR8 drove off the production line, one of the first built. As of December 11th, I will have owned the car for 10-years. I can’t believe it’s been that long!
Straight off the truck, December 2014.................
Delivery day, December 11th, 2014. That same showroom housed my new Ranger in 2016, my S550 Mustang in 2017 and almost 10 years later, my new S650 Mustang........................
So, to celebrate the cars anniversary and to put some of my newly honed skills into practice, I’ve decided to give the car a light polish and reapply an old favorite.
Decontamination and Prep Work -
For a car that spends most of its time sitting under a fleecy car cover, the level of contamination would be minimal here. For that reason, I decided I wouldn’t be dousing this car in acidic shampoos and iron removers. But I did feel it worthwhile giving the car a wash using a high-pH soap to help remove previously used drying aids. In this case I decided upon ADS Decon Soap.
After the wash, I inspected the paint with my hands and determined a clay step wasn’t necessary. So, a wash with an alkaline soap, then dried using Carpro Eraser was the only decontamination needed. From here, I went around the car taping up the trims. I'm slowly getting better at taping, and smarter too, why tape something that doesn't need to be? For example, on an FG-series Falcon, the upper door seal trims are on the door and not the door frame, so why tape them when you can simply open the door. Don't know why I didn't think of that sooner.
Products Used -
Armour Detail Supply Decon Soap
Microfiber Madness DeliPad Wash Pad
Carpro Eraser Prep Spray
The Rag Company Platinum Pluffle Drying Towel
Carpro Red Masking Tape
Gyeon Q2M Wheel Covers
Polishing -
With only a few minor wash induced love marks, there wasn’t a need for extensive correction on this car. Nor did I want to be hammering down on the paint, the goal with this car from the very beginning has been preservation. In other words, a light jeweling polish to boost gloss.
With that in mind, I knew what product I was going to use, the delightful Carpro Reflect. However, I needed to check which pad would give me the desired result without removing too much clearcoat. Remember, preservation here. I started with the ShineMate red foam finishing pad, but I found that I needed just a little more as it left behind a couple of isolated fine scratches on the test spot. So, I switched to the orange ShineMate foam polishing pad, and bingo, combination sorted.
After the Mustang back in October, and that Subaru last week, the FGX Falcon is so simple to polish, the byproduct of the swathes of flat, simple panel contouring. Even the masking process is simple.
One of the things I learnt at the polishing workshop last week was regarding edge work, as in, polishing up to edges safely. One of the first things Sandro guided me with was placing a towel behind the latch to prop the door open. With the front door opened as well, this makes it safer for the adjacent edges. For front door, you can then tape the front quarter panel edge in addition to the towel trick to protect both edges. This might sound obvious to some, but it was news to me. That's why I went to the class, to fine tune my process, and in this case, make it safer too.
Product, Pad & Machines Used -
Carpro Reflect Finishing Polish
ShineMate Orange Foam Polishing Pad (4-inch & 6-inch)
Rupes Yellow Fine Polishing Pad (2.5-inch)
The Rag Company Creature Edgeless Polish Removal Towel
Carpro Eraser Prep Spray
Rupes iBrid Nano Long Neck (2-inch)
Rupes HLR15 (5-inch machine)
ShineMate EB351-3/12 (3-inch machine)
Rupes Claw Pad Tool
And that's where I leave it for today. The car was wiped down with Eraser and covered up, ready for another session tomorrow.
Back in on the 5th of November 2014, my FG-X Falcon XR8 drove off the production line, one of the first built. As of December 11th, I will have owned the car for 10-years. I can’t believe it’s been that long!
Straight off the truck, December 2014.................
Delivery day, December 11th, 2014. That same showroom housed my new Ranger in 2016, my S550 Mustang in 2017 and almost 10 years later, my new S650 Mustang........................
So, to celebrate the cars anniversary and to put some of my newly honed skills into practice, I’ve decided to give the car a light polish and reapply an old favorite.
Decontamination and Prep Work -
For a car that spends most of its time sitting under a fleecy car cover, the level of contamination would be minimal here. For that reason, I decided I wouldn’t be dousing this car in acidic shampoos and iron removers. But I did feel it worthwhile giving the car a wash using a high-pH soap to help remove previously used drying aids. In this case I decided upon ADS Decon Soap.
After the wash, I inspected the paint with my hands and determined a clay step wasn’t necessary. So, a wash with an alkaline soap, then dried using Carpro Eraser was the only decontamination needed. From here, I went around the car taping up the trims. I'm slowly getting better at taping, and smarter too, why tape something that doesn't need to be? For example, on an FG-series Falcon, the upper door seal trims are on the door and not the door frame, so why tape them when you can simply open the door. Don't know why I didn't think of that sooner.
Products Used -
Armour Detail Supply Decon Soap
Microfiber Madness DeliPad Wash Pad
Carpro Eraser Prep Spray
The Rag Company Platinum Pluffle Drying Towel
Carpro Red Masking Tape
Gyeon Q2M Wheel Covers
Polishing -
With only a few minor wash induced love marks, there wasn’t a need for extensive correction on this car. Nor did I want to be hammering down on the paint, the goal with this car from the very beginning has been preservation. In other words, a light jeweling polish to boost gloss.
With that in mind, I knew what product I was going to use, the delightful Carpro Reflect. However, I needed to check which pad would give me the desired result without removing too much clearcoat. Remember, preservation here. I started with the ShineMate red foam finishing pad, but I found that I needed just a little more as it left behind a couple of isolated fine scratches on the test spot. So, I switched to the orange ShineMate foam polishing pad, and bingo, combination sorted.
After the Mustang back in October, and that Subaru last week, the FGX Falcon is so simple to polish, the byproduct of the swathes of flat, simple panel contouring. Even the masking process is simple.
One of the things I learnt at the polishing workshop last week was regarding edge work, as in, polishing up to edges safely. One of the first things Sandro guided me with was placing a towel behind the latch to prop the door open. With the front door opened as well, this makes it safer for the adjacent edges. For front door, you can then tape the front quarter panel edge in addition to the towel trick to protect both edges. This might sound obvious to some, but it was news to me. That's why I went to the class, to fine tune my process, and in this case, make it safer too.
Product, Pad & Machines Used -
Carpro Reflect Finishing Polish
ShineMate Orange Foam Polishing Pad (4-inch & 6-inch)
Rupes Yellow Fine Polishing Pad (2.5-inch)
The Rag Company Creature Edgeless Polish Removal Towel
Carpro Eraser Prep Spray
Rupes iBrid Nano Long Neck (2-inch)
Rupes HLR15 (5-inch machine)
ShineMate EB351-3/12 (3-inch machine)
Rupes Claw Pad Tool
And that's where I leave it for today. The car was wiped down with Eraser and covered up, ready for another session tomorrow.
ajohno
Well-known member
Looks good mate. Can’t believe 10 years have gone quick for Ford shutting down.
Have you seen, I’m not sure if it’s true but, the talk is the Falcon might make a return.
Have you seen, I’m not sure if it’s true but, the talk is the Falcon might make a return.
I've spotted AI generated stuff, but nothing official.
If Ford were to do a large sedan again, I think they would create something to fit into the Mustang sub brand to compliment the electric Mach E.
I'm a big fan of Larry, he is a class act and doesn't have the inflated ego of some of the other Youtube detailers. And yes, earlier this year he partnered with a local detailing and car storage business, so we now have easier access to the AMMO line of products.Hello from the other side of the globe! I’ve been following your thread for quite some time and always enjoy your updates. Congrats on the new Mustang!
I wanted to chime in and ask if you had any experience/opinion on AMMO products. Larry is fairly local to me (although I’ve never met him personally) and I’ve learned a ton from watching his YouTube videos over the years. Also much more likeable and practical than that other guy IMO
As I understand it he’s launched a partnership with a gent much like yourself to help build the brand and establish a presence in Australia. I’ve never purchased but the simplicity of his product line is appealing. Im curious how it might stack up against the more pro-oriented products you have experience with.
What I love about Larry is his ability to break things down and explain what he is doing, but also why he is doing it. And while his videos are product placements for his brand, he does it in a classy way without bold, arrogant claims. That's what separates him from the most of the rest.
As for the product line, its solid. I ordered a small selection a couple of years ago to try. I love the clean, simple branding. Since then, he has added new products, but I've yet to try them.
Hydrate is a very different take on a drying aid. Instead of a liquid that can be atomized by a spray head, Hydrate is thicker and more lotion-like, in fact he calls it "moisturiser". This means its works differently, something I struggled with. The spray head delivers product into a damp towel, its wiped over the paint, then buffed with a second dry towel. I found it needed more effort to use correctly, but the tradeoff is a highly lubricated feel under the towel. Hydrate has since had an update, which made it even thicker in consistency.
Mud tire dressing is a little glossy, but applies smoothly and smells lovely.
Brute Wheel Soap is the only wheel specific soap I have come across, it having a little more kick that a usual pH neutral wash soap.
I would love to try some of his new waxes, which have only just gone on sale. Larry was late to the ceramic coating party, and while he now offers them, he still appreciates the tactility and pleasure offered by applying a traditional wax.
Qualitytools
Well-known member
I stated watching Larry years ago, I learned so much from him and appreciate his talent.
Fast_Ed
Well-known member
Appreciate the detailed reply! I'm glad to hear you've had good experience with them, it gives me more confidence to try them out and not feel like I'm wasting money.
I'm also not fully on board the ceramic train yet - I think I'll experiment with some wheels first to test durability. There's something about applying a natural wax on a routine basis that's therapeutic to me
I'll be outfitting a new garage in the spring and I think a few AMMO products will find their way onto my shelves. Cheers!
I'm also not fully on board the ceramic train yet - I think I'll experiment with some wheels first to test durability. There's something about applying a natural wax on a routine basis that's therapeutic to me
I'll be outfitting a new garage in the spring and I think a few AMMO products will find their way onto my shelves. Cheers!
XR8 Paint Enhancement Continued……………….
With the rest of the polishing finished up, it was time to prepare for the application of some protection. To start, I wiped the car down with KCx PPS, I had forgotten how good this stuff is.
At the moment, I have three products that could have gone on this car. Gyeon Can Coat EVO would have been a quick, easy product to apply and would have delivered an excellent washing experience. But I just feel that Can Coat isn’t appropriate here. Collinite 845 has been a favorite of mine for so long, it certainly delivers on the tactility front. But, I’ve decided to reacquaint myself with another old favorite, a product that I know works really well on this colour and rewards the extra effort and time needed to apply. Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant (DGPS), a product that is sadly no longer offered in Australia. I actually got sent a bottle in error, so I have enough to last me the rest of my life.
Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant
I first tried this product after reaching out to Waxit, who were actually a forum sponsor at one point. I wanted something to use on my XR6 above and beyond the Meguiar’s wax I had been using prior. Waxit suggested Wolfgang DGPS to enhance the deeper tones within the Sensation blue paint. This was back in the early 2010’s, a time before ceramic coatings and spray sealants becoming a mainstream option. After using DGPS, the gloss and slickness levels were insane, as were the hydrophobics. For the first time, I was being asked what I was using on the paint!
Application -
Deep Gloss Paint Sealant is a cross-linking polymer paint sealant, with longevity said to last up to 6 months. Having said that, I can get years out of it on a garage queen. Wolfgang also make note of the anti-static properties DGPS provides, helping to repel dust, dirt and grime.
There are a few key reasons why I come back to the product –
- The glossy, wet look it creates. After application, Wolfgang suggest that the “paint looks like a clear glossy coating was just poured over it”
- The slickness! No toppers required!
- The depth that it adds to paint, enhancing the colour beyond its natural state
- Hydrophobic qualities that rival fancier ceramic coatings
Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant can be used on all painted surfaces. This is a product I would avoid getting on unpainted rubber and plastic trims, it will otherwise stain. DGPS can be applied to the car by hand or via machine. I prefer to use the machine with a black waxing pad to speed up the process and ensure even coverage, swapping to a small foam hand applicator for intricate areas like the wing mirrors and bumpers. Working panel by panel, apply a thin coat to the whole car, reapplying product to the pad as needed. Remember, a little goes a VERY long way. Be sure to also shake the bottle prior and during application. You will also notice it smells like an old school product, all solventy and no with attempt to lace it with fruity scents.
Note that I'm using the ShineMate and not the Rupes, the ShineMate on speed 1 is much slower running than the Rupes on the same setting. For wax and sealant application, you really don't want or need pad speed here, so the slower rpm is more than sufficient to do the job and won't cause any accidental splatter.
From here, you then need to be patient, DGPS needs to sit for untouched for 30 to 45 minutes to set up. After setting, you can then remove the residue with a microfiber towel, starting where you began the application. When applied thinly, buffing off DGPS is a dream, way way easier than leveling a ceramic coating.
The curing of DGPS is activated by oxygen, so exposure to moisture during the first 12 hours will compromise proper curing and tamper with the long-term durability. So, just like a ceramic coating, you need to think ahead.
While the sealant was setting up, I went around and removed the tape and deep cleaned the plastic and rubber trims with Meguiar’s M39 and PPS. I then applied Carpro Reload to the areas not coated with DGPS, including the grill surrounds, fog light area, front fender features, and plastic trims.
Finishing up, the door jambs and engine bay were wiped down with ECH20 to remove any accumulated polishing and sealant dust. Using towel dampened with ECH20, I went around and lightly wiped the car down to pick up any remaining sealant dust. The glass was then cleaned with Opti-Coat Glass Clean & Protect.
Products Used Today -
KCx PPS Panel Prep
The Rag Company Eagle Edgeless 500 Towels
Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant
ShineMate EB351 5/15 5-inch Polisher
ShineMate Black Foam Waxing Pad (6-inch)
Foam Wax Applicator
The Rag Company Creature Edgeless Sealant Removal Towel
Meguiar's M39 (NLA), Nexzett Plastic Deep Cleaner the alternative
Carpro Reload
Opti-Coat Glass Clean & Protect
Carpro ECH20
Note - While you can clean a pad or applicator used with DGPS, it's a tedious and annoying task that won't totally remove it. Once dried, the pad will be very dusty. To me, it's not worth the trouble, so count on binning them.
The Result -
This is not the first time I have applied DGPS to the XR8. Other than a variety of toppers since, the last sealant applied to this car was Gyeon Q2 Wax. The Gyeon wax certainly had the gloss and extremely good hydrophobics, but I feel like DGPS has an edge in gloss and slickness.
After applying mostly ceramic coatings over the last couple of years, it was like stepping back in time with this car. No, a sealant like this won't have the chemical resistance or longevity of a coating, but for a car like this, its the better option. I also have waaaay less anxiety applying a sealant over a coating, which overall, made it a much more pleasurable experience.
This is what I love about Emperor Red, in the shade it takes on a glassy, pearl-like finish. But in the sun, it transforms into a glowing beacon of gloss and metal flake................................
And so, with that, Happy Anniversary Miss. Jane
With the rest of the polishing finished up, it was time to prepare for the application of some protection. To start, I wiped the car down with KCx PPS, I had forgotten how good this stuff is.
At the moment, I have three products that could have gone on this car. Gyeon Can Coat EVO would have been a quick, easy product to apply and would have delivered an excellent washing experience. But I just feel that Can Coat isn’t appropriate here. Collinite 845 has been a favorite of mine for so long, it certainly delivers on the tactility front. But, I’ve decided to reacquaint myself with another old favorite, a product that I know works really well on this colour and rewards the extra effort and time needed to apply. Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant (DGPS), a product that is sadly no longer offered in Australia. I actually got sent a bottle in error, so I have enough to last me the rest of my life.
Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant
I first tried this product after reaching out to Waxit, who were actually a forum sponsor at one point. I wanted something to use on my XR6 above and beyond the Meguiar’s wax I had been using prior. Waxit suggested Wolfgang DGPS to enhance the deeper tones within the Sensation blue paint. This was back in the early 2010’s, a time before ceramic coatings and spray sealants becoming a mainstream option. After using DGPS, the gloss and slickness levels were insane, as were the hydrophobics. For the first time, I was being asked what I was using on the paint!
Application -
Deep Gloss Paint Sealant is a cross-linking polymer paint sealant, with longevity said to last up to 6 months. Having said that, I can get years out of it on a garage queen. Wolfgang also make note of the anti-static properties DGPS provides, helping to repel dust, dirt and grime.
There are a few key reasons why I come back to the product –
- The glossy, wet look it creates. After application, Wolfgang suggest that the “paint looks like a clear glossy coating was just poured over it”
- The slickness! No toppers required!
- The depth that it adds to paint, enhancing the colour beyond its natural state
- Hydrophobic qualities that rival fancier ceramic coatings
Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant can be used on all painted surfaces. This is a product I would avoid getting on unpainted rubber and plastic trims, it will otherwise stain. DGPS can be applied to the car by hand or via machine. I prefer to use the machine with a black waxing pad to speed up the process and ensure even coverage, swapping to a small foam hand applicator for intricate areas like the wing mirrors and bumpers. Working panel by panel, apply a thin coat to the whole car, reapplying product to the pad as needed. Remember, a little goes a VERY long way. Be sure to also shake the bottle prior and during application. You will also notice it smells like an old school product, all solventy and no with attempt to lace it with fruity scents.
Note that I'm using the ShineMate and not the Rupes, the ShineMate on speed 1 is much slower running than the Rupes on the same setting. For wax and sealant application, you really don't want or need pad speed here, so the slower rpm is more than sufficient to do the job and won't cause any accidental splatter.
From here, you then need to be patient, DGPS needs to sit for untouched for 30 to 45 minutes to set up. After setting, you can then remove the residue with a microfiber towel, starting where you began the application. When applied thinly, buffing off DGPS is a dream, way way easier than leveling a ceramic coating.
The curing of DGPS is activated by oxygen, so exposure to moisture during the first 12 hours will compromise proper curing and tamper with the long-term durability. So, just like a ceramic coating, you need to think ahead.
While the sealant was setting up, I went around and removed the tape and deep cleaned the plastic and rubber trims with Meguiar’s M39 and PPS. I then applied Carpro Reload to the areas not coated with DGPS, including the grill surrounds, fog light area, front fender features, and plastic trims.
Finishing up, the door jambs and engine bay were wiped down with ECH20 to remove any accumulated polishing and sealant dust. Using towel dampened with ECH20, I went around and lightly wiped the car down to pick up any remaining sealant dust. The glass was then cleaned with Opti-Coat Glass Clean & Protect.
Products Used Today -
KCx PPS Panel Prep
The Rag Company Eagle Edgeless 500 Towels
Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant
ShineMate EB351 5/15 5-inch Polisher
ShineMate Black Foam Waxing Pad (6-inch)
Foam Wax Applicator
The Rag Company Creature Edgeless Sealant Removal Towel
Meguiar's M39 (NLA), Nexzett Plastic Deep Cleaner the alternative
Carpro Reload
Opti-Coat Glass Clean & Protect
Carpro ECH20
Note - While you can clean a pad or applicator used with DGPS, it's a tedious and annoying task that won't totally remove it. Once dried, the pad will be very dusty. To me, it's not worth the trouble, so count on binning them.
The Result -
This is not the first time I have applied DGPS to the XR8. Other than a variety of toppers since, the last sealant applied to this car was Gyeon Q2 Wax. The Gyeon wax certainly had the gloss and extremely good hydrophobics, but I feel like DGPS has an edge in gloss and slickness.
After applying mostly ceramic coatings over the last couple of years, it was like stepping back in time with this car. No, a sealant like this won't have the chemical resistance or longevity of a coating, but for a car like this, its the better option. I also have waaaay less anxiety applying a sealant over a coating, which overall, made it a much more pleasurable experience.
This is what I love about Emperor Red, in the shade it takes on a glassy, pearl-like finish. But in the sun, it transforms into a glowing beacon of gloss and metal flake................................
And so, with that, Happy Anniversary Miss. Jane
Dixie_Flatline
Well-known member
Nice! We get a similar color here, but they call it Ruby Red, either way its one of my favorites. I've used Wolfgang's rinseless wash in the winter when its too cold out to be washing cars. Mostly trying to use up the last of my Klasse before I buy anything else, but you make it difficult with all these posts!
Geoff289
Well-known member
I once had the FG G6E I had down to 2 k's on the DTE indicator. Not something I'd usually do either but I think they program them a little conservatively. My partner's Golf is very disturbing, once it gets below 100 the reading starts plummeting before your eyes way quicker than what could actually be happening.
Warning, I'm a bit of a color freak.......................................
Ruby Red is a stunner! It's actually a what Ford calls a Tri-Coat paint, as in a base color layer, a clear coat and a tinted clear coat. For those polishing this paint, you may find some color transfer into you pad or towels, like a single stage color.
Ford replaced Ruby Red with Rapid Red and Lucid Red on some of their models, Rapid/Lucid being a darker shade.
I have wondered if Ford Australia used colors from the wider Ford world on the locally made cars, but I can't confirm this. I say this because Ford also offered two deep reds on BF to FG-X Falcon's, but I couldn't find a paint code match when compared to Rapid and Ruby red's.
The first being Seduce, code SD, which was offered between October 2006 to February 2012. This had a brighter tone with less metallic through it.
The second was Emperor Red, code EM or 5CSU, which was offered from May 2012 until factory closure in September 2016. Emperor is darker overall, but has more metallic in it, especially viewed in the sun where it takes on a gold undertone.
Back in 2014 when I was ordering the XR8, I agonized over color choice. To be blunt, I wanted a RED car, but Ford had discontinued the bright Vixen Red earlier that year. The only red offered was Emperor, but I wasn't totally sold on it, so I was also considering Smoke and Kinetic. Smoke was a darker metallic grey, Kinetic was a classic Ford-blue. These were the images I was going off, which is always a guide only and not fully representative of what they look like in the metal.
I dismissed Smoke as being too boring, even if it was a classy color. Kinetic? I'm sure I would have loved it, but it didn't offer much difference to my Sensation Blue XR6, and I felt like it would become too common. History would prove that. So, that left Emperor Red, which having not really seen in the metal, I fretted over that choice until I spotted the car for the first time at the dealer, then I knew I had made the right choice.
These are the color and transmission breakdown for the FG-X XR8, built from November 2014 till Feb 2016. My Emperor Red auto is one of 73 built.
| TOTAL BUILD | 2179 | |||
| Silhouette (Metallic Black) | 504 | Winter White | 451 | |
| Auto | 355 | Auto | 349 | |
| Manual | 149 | Manual | 102 | |
| Kinetic (Metallic Blue) | 457 | Smoke (Metallic Grey) | 289 | |
| Auto | 323 | Auto | 225 | |
| Manual | 134 | Manual | 64 | |
| Victory Gold Metallic | 172 | Lightning Strike (Metallic Silver) | 123 | |
| Auto | 134 | Auto | 103 | |
| Manual | 38 | Manual | 20 | |
| Emperor Red Metallic | 95 | Aero Blue (Light Blue Metallic) | 75 | |
| Auto | 73 | Auto | 50 | |
| Manual | 22 | Manual | 25 | |
| Vanish (Dark Blue Metallic) | 13 | |||
| Auto | 9 | |||
| Manual | 4 |
What I love about Emperor on this car is how unassuming it is. Without all the wings and stripes of the FPV range, the plain clothes XR8 in Emperor Red looks like the car your grandpa would drive to church on Sunday's. But when the hammer drops and the valves open in the exhaust, all hell breaks loose. A wolf in sheep's clothing, an iron fist in a velvet glove, a sleeper!
Correct, Ford built in a decent safety net on these cars, something like an extra 20km or 8 - 10 liters. The amount of people over the years who I have read complaining that their DTE said 0 but the car only took 58 liters on a 68-liter tank, like that was a bad thing. No, its Ford catering to the stupidity of idiots like that. What would they rather? The car spluttering to a halt with 0.5km to go?
Three weeks later, the stitches finally came out today. It's nice to have this little episode mostly behind me. However, I can't help feeling I wasted more than a month of my leave dealing with this.
Dixie_Flatline
Well-known member
I with you on the red Fords! I was offered a screaming deal on this one which happened to be Race Red, my first red Ford.
Long story short, ended up with this truck in Ruby Red.
Long story short, ended up with this truck in Ruby Red.
After all the rain we've had, and the temps now into the 30's, the Kikuyu is growing like crazy now! Actually, peak growth seems quite late this year, so guess I've had it somewhat easy so far for this season. I've been splitting my run over more days as I've been recovering, but at 34c (93f) degrees yesterday and 39c (102f) today, combined with high humidity, it's knocked me around.
I'm not the only one who hates the heat.......................
The XR8 still has plenty of punch, but you can certainly feel it lacking the usual STING when the heat soak is high. Ah well, at least it gives the 10-year old Dunlop SportMaxx an easier time. And yes, I know, I've gotta do something about that, I just don't want anyone jacking up those wheels.
And the paint is glowing at the moment.
There was a little bit of cloud cover in those images, I came out of a shop yesterday in full sun and the colour had changed to a bright cherry red, so so good!
I'm not the only one who hates the heat.......................
The XR8 still has plenty of punch, but you can certainly feel it lacking the usual STING when the heat soak is high. Ah well, at least it gives the 10-year old Dunlop SportMaxx an easier time. And yes, I know, I've gotta do something about that, I just don't want anyone jacking up those wheels.
And the paint is glowing at the moment.
There was a little bit of cloud cover in those images, I came out of a shop yesterday in full sun and the colour had changed to a bright cherry red, so so good!
I have to say, I'm getting tired of chasing stuff for this car that's either not offered here, is too expensive to import, or sold by local retailers who seem to be price gouging.
I took I liking to the 2024 Rouch Intake upgrade. I mean, it might provide a small power bump, but I just like the way it looks.
I first spotted it being offered by Tickford, but they don't publish a price, only a "Get A Quote" section. Well, I filled out a quote request three weeks ago and haven't heard anything back. Clearly, they don't want my money.
https://www.tickfordperformance.com.au/mustang-products/my24+-roush-air-intake-system
I then notice Mustang Motorsport have it listed on their site now too...................................at $1200!
https://www.roushperformance.com/pr...P27TnfDxJqHDBSopaoduV5j6l4WEKmTLJhSJbKpfDZQMc
I mean, come on, $1200 for two air filters and two plastic lids. The same thing from the Roush website sits at $550 USD, which roughly converts to $855 AUD. I do realise there are importation and tax costs, but an extra $345? Even still, $855 is ridiculous.
A set of similar oiled K&N filters tops out at $200 or so, and the aFe Dry Flow versions are $320. Are those clear plastic lids really worth $880 - $1000 for the pair?
https://automotivesuperstore.com.au...bDo6NGgHn07sZ9zn0JfLNTv5cC3QrE08jAGHsXVV4b4_R
https://www.carmodsaustralia.com.au...-Magnum-FLOW-Pro-Dry-S-Replacement-Air-Filter
And that's before looking at the wider aftermarket for S650 in Australia, its pathetic! Everything is overpriced and most of it lacks a product picture. How is someone supposed to buy something without even seeing it? Just seems like these places have no interest in selling anything. I also wonder why the Ford Performance catalog offering is so limited here. And then you have businesses crying poor, that the retail market has crashed, people aren't spending money. No ****** wonder.
I know, first world problems. In no way is this affecting my enjoyment of the car, but rather a frustration linked to it.
I took I liking to the 2024 Rouch Intake upgrade. I mean, it might provide a small power bump, but I just like the way it looks.
I first spotted it being offered by Tickford, but they don't publish a price, only a "Get A Quote" section. Well, I filled out a quote request three weeks ago and haven't heard anything back. Clearly, they don't want my money.
https://www.tickfordperformance.com.au/mustang-products/my24+-roush-air-intake-system
I then notice Mustang Motorsport have it listed on their site now too...................................at $1200!
https://www.roushperformance.com/pr...P27TnfDxJqHDBSopaoduV5j6l4WEKmTLJhSJbKpfDZQMc
I mean, come on, $1200 for two air filters and two plastic lids. The same thing from the Roush website sits at $550 USD, which roughly converts to $855 AUD. I do realise there are importation and tax costs, but an extra $345? Even still, $855 is ridiculous.
A set of similar oiled K&N filters tops out at $200 or so, and the aFe Dry Flow versions are $320. Are those clear plastic lids really worth $880 - $1000 for the pair?
https://automotivesuperstore.com.au...bDo6NGgHn07sZ9zn0JfLNTv5cC3QrE08jAGHsXVV4b4_R
https://www.carmodsaustralia.com.au...-Magnum-FLOW-Pro-Dry-S-Replacement-Air-Filter
And that's before looking at the wider aftermarket for S650 in Australia, its pathetic! Everything is overpriced and most of it lacks a product picture. How is someone supposed to buy something without even seeing it? Just seems like these places have no interest in selling anything. I also wonder why the Ford Performance catalog offering is so limited here. And then you have businesses crying poor, that the retail market has crashed, people aren't spending money. No ****** wonder.
I know, first world problems. In no way is this affecting my enjoyment of the car, but rather a frustration linked to it.
While a bit cooler today, it was still nasty humid. Today's project, a wash and some final touches on the XR8.
As always, wheels and tyres were first, but today I decided to set up the camera......................
These are my favorite wheel to clean, with plenty of clearance, they are so quick and easy to deal with. In this case, I used Brake Buster on the tyres, then foamed with Shine Supply Shift and cleaned the wheel and wheel arch. After a rinse, I hit the rotors with Atom Mac. All up, around 3 - 4 minutes per wheel.
The rest of the car was also washed with Shift, then dried with the EGO and OG Drying Aid. Wheels were wiped down with ADS Amplify, tyres dressed with OG Tire Dressing. Engine bay and door jambs dried with ECH20, glass via Invisible Glass.
I had two additional extra's planned for the XR8 today, the first being leather cleaning and conditioning. For the driver's seat, console lid, gear shifter and steering wheel, I used ColourLock Mild Leather Cleaner with the ColourLock brush. I could probably count on one hand the number of times the rest of the seats have been occupied, so I only needed to use Griot's Interior Cleaner on a towel for those. I like the Griots here because its unscented and virtually odorless..............this car still smells like new, I want to keep it that way. Following that, I went around and applied ColourLock Leather Protector using a Carpro Finger Mitt (THE BEST applicator for leather!!), buffing off any high spots with a clean towel.
The second task was giving the exhaust tips a refresh. Because these tips don't have a top coating, carbon deposits tend to penetrate and stain the material. I started by cleaning with Brake Buster, then followed by a decent hit with P21S Polishing Soap.
Next, I followed with Carpro MetalliCut, not my favorite metal polish but it was close to hand. That was teamed with a scrub pad, then wiped down with Gyeon Prep, then coated with Dr. Beasley's Metal Coat.
The XR8 is now covered up, the XR6 will take its place in rotation.
As always, wheels and tyres were first, but today I decided to set up the camera......................
These are my favorite wheel to clean, with plenty of clearance, they are so quick and easy to deal with. In this case, I used Brake Buster on the tyres, then foamed with Shine Supply Shift and cleaned the wheel and wheel arch. After a rinse, I hit the rotors with Atom Mac. All up, around 3 - 4 minutes per wheel.
The rest of the car was also washed with Shift, then dried with the EGO and OG Drying Aid. Wheels were wiped down with ADS Amplify, tyres dressed with OG Tire Dressing. Engine bay and door jambs dried with ECH20, glass via Invisible Glass.
I had two additional extra's planned for the XR8 today, the first being leather cleaning and conditioning. For the driver's seat, console lid, gear shifter and steering wheel, I used ColourLock Mild Leather Cleaner with the ColourLock brush. I could probably count on one hand the number of times the rest of the seats have been occupied, so I only needed to use Griot's Interior Cleaner on a towel for those. I like the Griots here because its unscented and virtually odorless..............this car still smells like new, I want to keep it that way. Following that, I went around and applied ColourLock Leather Protector using a Carpro Finger Mitt (THE BEST applicator for leather!!), buffing off any high spots with a clean towel.
The second task was giving the exhaust tips a refresh. Because these tips don't have a top coating, carbon deposits tend to penetrate and stain the material. I started by cleaning with Brake Buster, then followed by a decent hit with P21S Polishing Soap.
Next, I followed with Carpro MetalliCut, not my favorite metal polish but it was close to hand. That was teamed with a scrub pad, then wiped down with Gyeon Prep, then coated with Dr. Beasley's Metal Coat.
The XR8 is now covered up, the XR6 will take its place in rotation.
Out making some noise after work...........................
Must have been Race Red day. On the way out, I spotted an FN GT Fastback with the black pack. On the way home, I had a FM GT Fastback rolling behind me then alongside in the right lane. As we pulled up side by side at the lights, I wound my window down to exchange a thumbs up and hello, but the driver was having none of it. Actually, he/she (I couldn't tell) was quite arrogant. I usually get/give a wave and thumbs up when I spot another Mustang on the road, not this time.
Must have been Race Red day. On the way out, I spotted an FN GT Fastback with the black pack. On the way home, I had a FM GT Fastback rolling behind me then alongside in the right lane. As we pulled up side by side at the lights, I wound my window down to exchange a thumbs up and hello, but the driver was having none of it. Actually, he/she (I couldn't tell) was quite arrogant. I usually get/give a wave and thumbs up when I spot another Mustang on the road, not this time.
With my Ranger being lent to my father, I took the opportunity to get his Wildtrak back into shape. Despite not washing it for quite a while, thankfully it wasn't too bad, however there were a couple of things I wanted to address.
First up, the engine bay. I once spent hours meticulously cleaning engine bays with all-purpose cleaner and rags in a bid to keep everything dry. I don't have the patience for that anymore, and besides, an engine bay is open from below so it's going to get wet in there at some point. Instead of APC, today I used Bilt Hamber Touchless. This was my first use of the new v2 version of Touchless, which is doubly concentrated now. It's also now yellow in colour and very strong smelling. Apparently the bottles used for Touchless have a special lining to prevent it seeping through the plastic.
So, I foamed the engine bay with Touchless, then helped things along with a Detail Factory Fender Brush and an EZ-Detail brush. I then rinsed and went to town with Hyper Dressing, followed by a quick blow with the EGO. Job Done!
Next, I went around and foamed the wheel and wheel arches with Touch-less to help make things a bit easier. I hate cleaning wheel arches on these Rangers, they have so many pockets and surface angle changes, making them hard to get fully clean. While that was soaking, I applied Touch-less to the rubber floor mats, agitated with a brush, then rinsed.
With the Touch-less rinsed, it was time for the contact washing. Today I decided to give Carpro WheelX a try, which is their new dedicated wheel cleaner. Previous to WheelX, if you wanted to stay within the Carpro eco-system, you would have been using IronX and/or MultiX. Compared to the alkaline MultiX or the pH neutral IronX, this product is acid leaning and is designed to dissolve iron contamination and remove dirt, brake dust and grease. They also suggest it can be used to remove old sealants and act as a tyre cleaner.
WheelX certainly has some decent cleaning ability, in fact it stripped off the Hydr02 used at the last wash. But.....................this stuff is vile! Initially, it has a similar lemon scent of IronX, but that quickly morphs into a disgusting stench that would have to be one of the worst scented iron removers I have ever used. You can also certainly detect the acid leaning formula. While capable, I nearly put WheelX back in the cabinet after the first wheel, its that bad. So, of the iron-remover wheel cleaners, NV Purge is still THE one to buy.
Following the wheels and tyres, I foamed the car down with Touch-less and allowed it a few minutes to soak before rinsing. Then, NV Snow was foamed on and followed by the contact wash. Blown down with the EGO, I then mopped up any remaining water with a Gauntlet and OG Drying Aid. Moving to the interior, I used Leather Love on the seats and cleaned everything else with Nexzett Cockpit, glass via True Vue.
Moving back to the exterior, I got started on the second item I wanted to address. I don't know where Ford have these headlights made, but they ****! Mine started to oxidize very early on, and so did these. The pictures don't properly illustrate how bad these look in person. You'd kinda expect this sort of thing with cheap aftermarket lights, not OEM. Not good enough Ford.
I'd been holding off sorting these out as the car was supposed to be going in for some body work repairs, which was delayed and another insurance claim filed after an un-licensed old guy run up the back of it and smashed the right rear taillight and left behind a serious of dents. I'd say it will now be an after Christmas thing, so I couldn't wait any longer on the headlights.
Griot's Fast Correcting Cream was used on a Lake Country blue SDO pad. This cleaned them up nicely, although not perfect. That Fast Correcting Cream is very nice to work with, it even has a sweet scent.
Following a wipe over with IPA, I then applied Opti-Coat Lens Coating. This stuff is supposed to last longer on plastic headlights than a regular paint coating, so with the car parked outdoors 24/7, it will be the ultimate test.
A final touch, Perl went on the tyres and the engine bay wiped over to mop up any remaining water/Hyper Dressing.
First up, the engine bay. I once spent hours meticulously cleaning engine bays with all-purpose cleaner and rags in a bid to keep everything dry. I don't have the patience for that anymore, and besides, an engine bay is open from below so it's going to get wet in there at some point. Instead of APC, today I used Bilt Hamber Touchless. This was my first use of the new v2 version of Touchless, which is doubly concentrated now. It's also now yellow in colour and very strong smelling. Apparently the bottles used for Touchless have a special lining to prevent it seeping through the plastic.
So, I foamed the engine bay with Touchless, then helped things along with a Detail Factory Fender Brush and an EZ-Detail brush. I then rinsed and went to town with Hyper Dressing, followed by a quick blow with the EGO. Job Done!
Next, I went around and foamed the wheel and wheel arches with Touch-less to help make things a bit easier. I hate cleaning wheel arches on these Rangers, they have so many pockets and surface angle changes, making them hard to get fully clean. While that was soaking, I applied Touch-less to the rubber floor mats, agitated with a brush, then rinsed.
With the Touch-less rinsed, it was time for the contact washing. Today I decided to give Carpro WheelX a try, which is their new dedicated wheel cleaner. Previous to WheelX, if you wanted to stay within the Carpro eco-system, you would have been using IronX and/or MultiX. Compared to the alkaline MultiX or the pH neutral IronX, this product is acid leaning and is designed to dissolve iron contamination and remove dirt, brake dust and grease. They also suggest it can be used to remove old sealants and act as a tyre cleaner.
WheelX certainly has some decent cleaning ability, in fact it stripped off the Hydr02 used at the last wash. But.....................this stuff is vile! Initially, it has a similar lemon scent of IronX, but that quickly morphs into a disgusting stench that would have to be one of the worst scented iron removers I have ever used. You can also certainly detect the acid leaning formula. While capable, I nearly put WheelX back in the cabinet after the first wheel, its that bad. So, of the iron-remover wheel cleaners, NV Purge is still THE one to buy.
Following the wheels and tyres, I foamed the car down with Touch-less and allowed it a few minutes to soak before rinsing. Then, NV Snow was foamed on and followed by the contact wash. Blown down with the EGO, I then mopped up any remaining water with a Gauntlet and OG Drying Aid. Moving to the interior, I used Leather Love on the seats and cleaned everything else with Nexzett Cockpit, glass via True Vue.
Moving back to the exterior, I got started on the second item I wanted to address. I don't know where Ford have these headlights made, but they ****! Mine started to oxidize very early on, and so did these. The pictures don't properly illustrate how bad these look in person. You'd kinda expect this sort of thing with cheap aftermarket lights, not OEM. Not good enough Ford.
I'd been holding off sorting these out as the car was supposed to be going in for some body work repairs, which was delayed and another insurance claim filed after an un-licensed old guy run up the back of it and smashed the right rear taillight and left behind a serious of dents. I'd say it will now be an after Christmas thing, so I couldn't wait any longer on the headlights.
Griot's Fast Correcting Cream was used on a Lake Country blue SDO pad. This cleaned them up nicely, although not perfect. That Fast Correcting Cream is very nice to work with, it even has a sweet scent.
Following a wipe over with IPA, I then applied Opti-Coat Lens Coating. This stuff is supposed to last longer on plastic headlights than a regular paint coating, so with the car parked outdoors 24/7, it will be the ultimate test.
A final touch, Perl went on the tyres and the engine bay wiped over to mop up any remaining water/Hyper Dressing.
What I thought was going to be a quick prune of an overhanging branch turned into something rather more involved. Instead of extended reach loppers, I had to grab one of the saws. Considering this was my neighbors property, it was only fitting that I use the 028AV Super!
What a lovely saw! It's light enough to be nimble, but has plenty of grunt to cut through rock hard timber. It's also fully ran in over many, many years, so its seems to run sweeter than my MS271 which is still pretty green. I love this thing and I'm so glad my neighbor gave it to me. I spent so much of my youth idolizing this saw, to now be its custodian is very special to me.
Meanwhile, it might seem like a show pony sometimes, but this vehicle is a working girl! Moments later at the tip, a gardener pulled up in his brand new dual-cab Hilux Rouge, you know the one with all the tacky black plastic to make it look tuff, and you guessed it.....................towing a trailer. A completely useless vehicle for this profession. Oh, but maybe he has a family to transport once a month on a Saturday. But you paid $70,000 for it to be completely useless the rest of the time. I don't get it.
Anyway, after a few big jobs last week, lending it to my Dad yesterday, and today's antics, I REALLY wanted to get the workhorse cleaned up. Staring with the tray, after blowing out all of the leaves and twigs, I hit it with Touch-less.
I really wish there was a better solution for tray matting than this stuff with all the holes in it. From what I was told, solid rubber would hold moisture and cause the tray to rust. Normally, I would put a tarp down first, which actually helps remove the contents of the tray much quicker while also collecting all the debris. But I was pressed for time and unprepared. In any case, the Touch-less really helped deep clean the rubber without me actually having to put any effort into the task.
Following that, the tyres got scrubbed with Undressed, then the wheels were cleaned with Incredible Suds, followed by the rest of the vehicle. Drying aid was Shine Supply Punch It, the tray and door jambs with Gyeon Ceramic Detailer. Why so two similar products? I'm trying to use up some odds and ends, these two being next in line. The interior was filthy, the floor mats needed scrubbing with McKee's, the rest wiped down with ADS Pilot, followed by a generous spritz of Angelwax Bliss. The wheels got wiped down with Amplify, the tyres dressed with the lovely Swissvax Pneu. Finally, the glass was cleaned via Gyeon Q2M Glass.
A clean workhorse, sanity restored!
What a lovely saw! It's light enough to be nimble, but has plenty of grunt to cut through rock hard timber. It's also fully ran in over many, many years, so its seems to run sweeter than my MS271 which is still pretty green. I love this thing and I'm so glad my neighbor gave it to me. I spent so much of my youth idolizing this saw, to now be its custodian is very special to me.
Meanwhile, it might seem like a show pony sometimes, but this vehicle is a working girl! Moments later at the tip, a gardener pulled up in his brand new dual-cab Hilux Rouge, you know the one with all the tacky black plastic to make it look tuff, and you guessed it.....................towing a trailer. A completely useless vehicle for this profession. Oh, but maybe he has a family to transport once a month on a Saturday. But you paid $70,000 for it to be completely useless the rest of the time. I don't get it.
Anyway, after a few big jobs last week, lending it to my Dad yesterday, and today's antics, I REALLY wanted to get the workhorse cleaned up. Staring with the tray, after blowing out all of the leaves and twigs, I hit it with Touch-less.
I really wish there was a better solution for tray matting than this stuff with all the holes in it. From what I was told, solid rubber would hold moisture and cause the tray to rust. Normally, I would put a tarp down first, which actually helps remove the contents of the tray much quicker while also collecting all the debris. But I was pressed for time and unprepared. In any case, the Touch-less really helped deep clean the rubber without me actually having to put any effort into the task.
Following that, the tyres got scrubbed with Undressed, then the wheels were cleaned with Incredible Suds, followed by the rest of the vehicle. Drying aid was Shine Supply Punch It, the tray and door jambs with Gyeon Ceramic Detailer. Why so two similar products? I'm trying to use up some odds and ends, these two being next in line. The interior was filthy, the floor mats needed scrubbing with McKee's, the rest wiped down with ADS Pilot, followed by a generous spritz of Angelwax Bliss. The wheels got wiped down with Amplify, the tyres dressed with the lovely Swissvax Pneu. Finally, the glass was cleaned via Gyeon Q2M Glass.
A clean workhorse, sanity restored!
Dixie_Flatline
Well-known member
Looking good! Why not get a spray-on liner applied and ditch the mat? Spray the whole tray with it while you're at it?
Stihl makes some great saws. I've got a little MS250 hopped up a little bit with a muffler from an 025 (pre EPA involvement) and I had the carb limit screw caps removed so the carb could be tuned. Also running a yellow narrow chain, and with those two mods I can keep up with some bigger saws with my little 16" bar.
Qualitytools
Well-known member
That looks like a rubber mat with holes, are the wholes all the way thru to the underside or the road?What I thought was going to be a quick prune of an overhanging branch turned into something rather more involved. Instead of extended reach loppers, I had to grab one of the saws. Considering this was my neighbors property, it was only fitting that I use the 028AV Super!
What a lovely saw! It's light enough to be nimble, but has plenty of grunt to cut through rock hard timber. It's also fully ran in over many, many years, so its seems to run sweeter than my MS271 which is still pretty green. I love this thing and I'm so glad my neighbor gave it to me. I spent so much of my youth idolizing this saw, to now be its custodian is very special to me.
Meanwhile, it might seem like a show pony sometimes, but this vehicle is a working girl! Moments later at the tip, a gardener pulled up in his brand new dual-cab Hilux Rouge, you know the one with all the tacky black plastic to make it look tuff, and you guessed it.....................towing a trailer. A completely useless vehicle for this profession. Oh, but maybe he has a family to transport once a month on a Saturday. But you paid $70,000 for it to be completely useless the rest of the time. I don't get it.
Anyway, after a few big jobs last week, lending it to my Dad yesterday, and today's antics, I REALLY wanted to get the workhorse cleaned up. Staring with the tray, after blowing out all of the leaves and twigs, I hit it with Touch-less.
I really wish there was a better solution for tray matting than this stuff with all the holes in it. From what I was told, solid rubber would hold moisture and cause the tray to rust. Normally, I would put a tarp down first, which actually helps remove the contents of the tray much quicker while also collecting all the debris. But I was pressed for time and unprepared. In any case, the Touch-less really helped deep clean the rubber without me actually having to put any effort into the task.
Following that, the tyres got scrubbed with Undressed, then the wheels were cleaned with Incredible Suds, followed by the rest of the vehicle. Drying aid was Shine Supply Punch It, the tray and door jambs with Gyeon Ceramic Detailer. Why so two similar products? I'm trying to use up some odds and ends, these two being next in line. The interior was filthy, the floor mats needed scrubbing with McKee's, the rest wiped down with ADS Pilot, followed by a generous spritz of Angelwax Bliss. The wheels got wiped down with Amplify, the tyres dressed with the lovely Swissvax Pneu. Finally, the glass was cleaned via Gyeon Q2M Glass.
A clean workhorse, sanity restored!
No, the bed is made from solid checker plate steel............................
This is the main problem with the rubber matting, it traps and holds dirt, sticks, leaves, grass................................
The main reason I keep it is to protect the steel bed and stop things sliding and rattling.
I also have it fitted to the pull-out tool drawer.............................
Back to garage washing now that it's warming up.
Carpro Reset was on the car today, both wheels and paint, Amplify the drying aid, OG TD on the tyres. With the car still outgassing, the interior glass needed another clean today to remove the film that tends to build up.
Driving the car yesterday, the engine is certainly starting to free up a little. It also sounds so good as I start to further extend the rev range. At the moment, I think I will leave the exhaust alone, in Track mode its more than loud enough. If I did change something, removal of the central resonator would help balance some of the volume, at the moment it's all from the rear. That's something I enjoyed about the Borla I had on the old car, the noise was evenly distributed from the engine to the tail pipes. But, as I said, the S650 is noisy enough as it is.
Carpro Reset was on the car today, both wheels and paint, Amplify the drying aid, OG TD on the tyres. With the car still outgassing, the interior glass needed another clean today to remove the film that tends to build up.
Driving the car yesterday, the engine is certainly starting to free up a little. It also sounds so good as I start to further extend the rev range. At the moment, I think I will leave the exhaust alone, in Track mode its more than loud enough. If I did change something, removal of the central resonator would help balance some of the volume, at the moment it's all from the rear. That's something I enjoyed about the Borla I had on the old car, the noise was evenly distributed from the engine to the tail pipes. But, as I said, the S650 is noisy enough as it is.