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Above 1200 Sq/FT DFB's Garage

Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
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D.F.B

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Today's puppy photo spam!

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I will admit, on Thursday I was somewhat lost and a little terrified by what lay ahead. And yet, I was so focused on doing everything right and sleep deprived to notice that Olly had snuck right up and stole my heart. Which then triggered me because I just wish Faych was here to share. And then I discovered the below paw print collage that was included with Olly's papers, which is so lovely but also another trigger.

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Anyway, it would appear I'm still hurting and healing. But I at least have a renewed purpose.
 
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Mr. Olly is getting more and more confident in his new surroundings. Apart from a little grizzle at 7am, he managed to sleep all by himself for about 9 hours...............which meant I also slept. Well, that extra sleep meant he had LOTS of energy today. He's also at that "bite everything" stage, at this rate I'm going to need some more socks. :rolleyes:

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Naturally, a big morning and afternoon chasing toes, chewing socks, playing toys, relocating shoes, following me around, meeting visitors........................well it's a hard job being this cute.......................

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D.F.B

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Came across this today, supposed to double the airflow of any leaf blower.

"Blower Mate uses the Venturi effect to draw in surrounding air and increase the overall volume of airflow, directing it into a controlled stream that moves leaves, grass clippings and debris with less effort."


It looks pretty janky to me, it would appear they are using two dog collars to hold it onto the OEM tube. And all yours for $99.95, or $49.95 at the moment (which means no one is buying them).

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Two little introductions today. That little cube of ice was a hit, very satisfying for him.

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Secondly, the beginnings of lead training. For this I'm using a light duty chain, which is used purely to give him a feel of something on his collar rather than something to restrain him by. Once he becomes familiar with that, we'll progress to a standard fabric lead and take it from there.

He also discovered the neighbour's cat taking a shortcut through our backyard, bark bark bark! Very funny and very cute!

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The local tip shop once had lines and lines of old mowers to buy. Since Covid, that's not the case anymore, either an employee is nabbing them before hitting the floor, or someone is cleaning them out on a regular basis. That means finding old mowers to fix up or use for spare parts is limited around here. I mention Covid because fixing up and selling mowers on Marketplace has really taken off since then.

On that note, a fellow forum member came across some parts he knew I was interested in finding, so I couldn't refuse and he kindly took the time to retrieve and post them to me. Much appreciated.

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The Stihl fan and shroud will be stored for future repairs if needed. But it's the snorkel parts I really wanted, and especially that Briggs Quantum filter housing. I managed to get the last brand new one before Christmas, of which is being kept aside for the Razor rebuild. This used example I wanted for the Rover Combat.

Of course, me being me, I wanted to tidy up these parts before putting them on the mower. First of all, I cleaned them in my parts washer, which is filled with diluted Bilt Hamber Surfex HD. That little parts washer is excellent, I really like how I can snap the lid back on and put it back under the bench when I'm done.

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And now for the pointless part, restoring the plastic with Solution Finish......................

Instead of calling it a "pointless" endeavour, let's just say it's a "learning experience". There are certain parts I won't be able to find new when it comes to the Razor restoration, so using a product like this is the next best thing. Solution Finish is a dye used to restore black textured plastic on cars, think bumper inserts, engine covers, side skirts, window trims, and side protection mouldings, even interior plastic. These engine parts are made from a similar material, so I don't see why it wouldn't work here as well.


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While trim/plastic/rubber "dressings" will simply wash off, Solution Finish is considered "semi-permanent" as it will penetrate plastic. To apply, you need to make sure the surface is clean, which is what the Surfex did, then follow with an IPA wipe down, of which I used up some Bowden's Flash Prep (which I don't recommend). Apply a small amount of Solution Finish to a sponge and work it in, a little goes a long way. Leave it for a few minutes to absorb before leveling with a towel.

I'm actually quite surprised at how effective it was, you can still see the wear marks, but the finish is basically brand new.

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At this point I had an OCD-level conundrum....................do I put a Victa part on a Rover? I had a used Rover filter housing that came with the NOS parts haul last year, which must have been a take-off part. The plastic on these is hideously cheap and brittle feeling, the Victa ones are made from much nicer quality plastic. But I wanted to keep it OE, so went with the used Rover housing, a new (slightly longer) Rover hose, and the salvaged lower snorkel/filter housing.

Quantum Snorkel Adaptor Cover - A03811 (Rover)(NLA)
Rover Upper Snorkel Housing - A03217
Rover Snorkel Tube - A03277 (1080mm)

The Rover housing was also cleaned and IPA wiped, then treated with Solution Finish.

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Because of the throttle controller position and not wanting to drill another hole, I had to mount the housing underslung. With the old lower housing removed, the snorkel version was installed with a new pleated air filter from NOS, and a new OEM foam/mesh pre-filter. The hose was then fitted. The final step was installing the snorkel filter, I also had to trim up a piece foam from a NOS Loncin filter to put at the bottom of the housing, which helps make a tight fit once the spring-loaded cap is wound back on.

Briggs & Stratton Quantum Filter - 491588
Briggs & Stratton Quantum Pre-Filter - 493537

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While I had the Combat out, I warmed up engine and changed the oil using Penrite SAE30..............burning my leg on the hot muffler in the process, a rookie mistake!

A snorkel makes a MASSIVE difference to filtration. Unlike the standard filter cover, the snorkel version has the inlets blocked off, meaning the engine can only draw air from the upper snorkel. In effect, you have a 3-stage filtration system, and because the air inlet is above the dust and debris level, the filters never really block up, which means more power, reduced fuel consumption, and less carbon build up from running rich. In turn, you increase engine life.....................which would be why NO Briggs & Stratton engine comes with a snorkel option these days, they want your engine to fail.
 
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Gearing up for an oil change on the Kranzle, I decided to make a platform for it to sit on, in turn making it easier to drain the fluid into a container underneath.

This was the last time I changed the oil. Considering how heavy these things are, it was a little sketchy balancing on top of those two buckets, one of which was the drain pan. It was one slip away from a giant mess, and being gear oil, it would have reeked too.

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Nothing particularly high tech of fancy here, just some timber cut to equal lengths and screwed together. I guess I could paint them too, let's see how long I can resist that urge.


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In addition to timber, I also bought a small parts bin to act as a drain pan, which will sit between the two platforms. That's the theory.

I made these platforms a little longer than required for the KHD10, this will mean I can use them on the K1152 as well.

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Little Olly has taken a liking to ice cubes, perfect for summer. He's also been barking at the sparrows landing in the garden, at one point he was keeping watch on the deck, so cute. I think this is the most beautiful thing about raising a puppy, seeing them discover new things for the first time and how they react to it.

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littlebean

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looks like he's settling in nicely - our dog (Lola) likes to bark at pigeons, sheep and, occasionally if they dare walk near the fence, the horses
 
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looks like he's settling in nicely - our dog (Lola) likes to bark at pigeons, sheep and, occasionally if they dare walk near the fence, the horses

He can be a handful, mainly the nipping at my feet, but he's a puppy finding his way. All things considered, he's doing very well.
 

littlebean

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Lola is nearly 14 now and has had some teeth out but I can still remember her puppy bites, like being stabbed with sewing needles :D
 
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Love it when a plan comes to life. The timber supports I made yesterday worked a treat, as did the makeshift parts container oil pan.

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Geez I hate the smell of gear oil. I left the machine to drain while I went out for 30-minutes, came back to the distinctive stench of gear oil had filled the garage. Compared to the first oil change last January, the oil came out dark golden brown rather than grey, so I guess the unit has broken in now.

After cleaning the magnetic drain plug, it was time for the fresh oil. I've said this before, but the recommended 250-ml is completely wrong as it doesn't even register on the dipstick, replacement always takes 300-ml. Same applies to my mobile K1152. This is odd considering the German origins, unless I'm missing something.

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Oil change done, ready for another years work. The hardest part of the job is taking the 25 kg unit off the shelf and lifting it back up again.
 
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XR6 Major Service –

This morning I dropped the XR6 off for a fairly comprehensive service. In a few months, the car will turn 18-years old, which will also mark 18-years of ownership. Apart from the gearbox, the car was given a full reset of the fluids and some other issues I needed addressed.

Servicing is tough for me for a couple of reasons. Firstly, Ford specifies 15,000-km or 12-months service intervals, “whichever occurs first”. But I just don’t do enough km’s within a 12-month period, and while I know certain fluids are time critical, sending a car in for a service that’s done less than 1000km since the last visit becomes overkill. I followed that for many years within the Ford system. Secondly, I have severe anxiety leaving my car in the hands of someone else, the result of too many bad experiences. The solution to that would be to do it myself, but I just don’t have the confidence, especially on more intricate jobs that I wanted doing.

I explain that because the last time I had the XR6 serviced was May 2024. Apart from when I had the brakes upgraded, every single one of the 15 services on this car have been done within the Ford dealer network. I persisted with that for too long, and considering the age of this car, and the Falcon having been out of production for a decade now, a Ford dealer no longer holds value in my eyes. So today I took it to an independent, the same who did the brakes at the end of 2023.

I have a folder for each of my cars, past and present. This keeps everything on the car together, from the original sales contract, to registration papers, service invoices, parts invoices, battery replacements, upgrades ect. As much as anything, this allows me to keep track of what each car has had done over the years, and no doubt it will help sell a car in the future.

Before booking the service, I looked back at my records and formed a list of what I wanted done. Based on time, the coolant (every 3-years) and brake fluid (every 2-years) needed replacement. I also wanted the diff oil and fuel filter changed, probably not essential at this point but worth doing in my opinion. The rear bump stops needed replacing, the originals to the car were in bad condition. I also had a rattle in the front left calliper that needed to be looked at.

I’ve always supplied my own oil for the XR6, from the first service it’s had Castrol Edge 5w-30. I don’t mess with oil specs, just use what the manufacturer specifies and leave it alone. On this occasion, I also supplied a Motorcraft oil filter and fuel filter, as well as a new OEM drain plug. The diff fluid is Castrol Transmax 80W-140 Limited Slip, while the car doesn’t have an LSD, it meets the Ford specification. The brakes got Penrite Super Dot 4 fluid, the coolant was shop supplied.

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For the rear bump stops, the rubber OEM replacements retail for about $100 each. Having been told that these rubber items deteriorate quickly, I didn’t see the reason to spend the premium on the OEM parts. So, I went with polyurethane aftermarket replacements from SuperPro. Installing these isn’t that difficult, but lying on my back for 30-minutes trying to get them pushed onto their pegs didn’t sound appealing. So, while they had it up on the hoist, I figured it would take them less than 5-minutes to do, an easy decision.

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For the brake calliper rattle, this is a common complaint with Falcon’s using these PBR sliding callipers. From what I’ve learnt, with age the slide pins begin to exhibit excessive movement in the bores, and over time that movement turns into a rattle when going over bumps. There are several ways to solve the issue, from lubricating to replacing the pins, installing upgraded aftermarket pins with a superior rubber seal, even total replacement of the calliper. Naturally, the price of fixing this problem varies widely.

On this occasion, the mechanic removed and lubricated the slide pins, then used anti-rattle paste on the pads and callipers. On the drive home the rattle had disappeared, although I do realize this is likely a temporary solution. If/when the rattle returns, I’ll likely look into getting a set of the revised calliper pins.

Below is a price and parts breakdown of what went into this service. Naturally, I didn’t use all 10-litres of oil, so the actual cost of oil would be less, same for the brakes and diff oil. However, I’ve included the total price for illustrative purposes.

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So, was going independent cheaper than having the same work done at a dealership? Maybe, maybe not. I'd also question if buying your own parts and fluids is saving you money, at least I got to choose what went in the car. I will say though, I felt in better hands on this occasion, I even got to speak with the mechanic who worked on the car. There was a refreshing honesty to his responses, and he knew what he was talking about rather than a “service advisor” reading off the piece of paper in their hands. I asked if the diff bushes needing replacement as in the past the Ford dealer had told me they were split, he gave me a very fast NO and knowing smile. “We don’t replace stuff just because it’s a common problem”. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you.

So, that's one of the more positive mechanic experiences I've had. And to cap it all off, I managed to pick the car up before it started raining. :D
 
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D.F.B

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1996 MAZDA RX-7 DETAIL –

This car came to me after my father mentioned my skills to a long term friend. With intentions of selling his car, he wanted it polished before listing it for sale. At that point I knew it was RX-7, but had no idea what year or condition it was in. After a short phone call, he explained it was a 1986 RX-7 and that he would bring it around for me to take a look. At that point I was quite nervous considering the age of the paint. The next day when he turned up, that’s when it got interesting.

What greeted me in the driveway was NOT an 80’s RX-7, rather a 90’s FD model RX-7. Puzzled, I again asked what year it was, and again told a 1986. Because the car still had a rego sticker on the windscreen, which were made redundant more than a decade ago, I noted it said 1996. From here, the more he spoke of the car, the more it resonated…………………

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This Mazda is quite a special car! And not just because of the obvious desirability factor from being a Japanese cult classic. The client bought the car brand new in 1996 with 12 km on the clock, and despite being 30 years old, its only done 52,000 kms (32,000 miles). He has never driven it in the rain, never parked it in the sun, and importantly, never modified. The car has been driven and enjoyed, but never unreasonably flogged. Does any of this sound familiar?

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I have no doubt the owner had some reservations of handing this car over to a stranger. The way he talked about it and the condition it was in, this car is his baby. Clearly my Dad talked up my skills, but when he came over and spotted the condition of my own cars and the garage setup, he remarked that he didn’t trust anyone else to touch it. So, I hope his mind was at ease leaving it with me.

THE BRIEF -

For such a well-cared for vehicle, you could easily assume there wasn’t much to do. And to a degree, that’s true. For example, the door jambs were clean, the rubber trims in excellent condition, no water-spots on the paint or glass, a clean interior, no obvious contamination. Clearly, it’s been maintained very well.

The main focus for this car was a paint enhancement, and I was also asked to check out the leather seats.

WHEELS & TYRES -

While the wheel face presented well, clearly the barrels hadn’t been maintained properly owing to a build-up of brake dust. Whenever dealing with long term brake dust deposits, there is only so much you can do without taking the wheels off the car, not something I want to do on a customer’s car, especially one this rare.

The tyres were scrubbed with Wise Guy, the wheels got pre-treated with NV Purge, then contact washed with foamed Brake Buster. Once clean, I followed with Hydr02, then Atom Mac on the rotors. After this, the wheels looked good and only the closest inspection would reveal what remained.

During this step, I also polished the exhaust tips with P21S Polishing Soap.

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DECONTAMINATION WASH –

Because of how clean the car was, I skipped the multi-step, multi-pH decontamination process I normally go through. After a pre-rinse, I went around and applied NV Purify and allowed it to dwell while packing away the wheel cleaning kit. On return, I noticed very little iron reaction. I later asked if he had clayed or used an iron remover before, he hadn't. After rinsing the iron remover, I foamed with KCx Active Foam and went ahead with the contact wash. The paint had absolutely nothing on it in terms of protection, the water behaviour completely flat.

At this point, the paint was feeling relatively smooth but also quite grabby owing to the complete lack of protection on the car. The only rough feeling area was the rear bumper, which is pretty normal. So, the paint and glass were treated with a clay mitt and Gyeon Clay Lube. The final step was a thorough rinse before moving into the garage. To dry, the blower was of limited use considering how flat the water behaviour was, so I followed with a large drying towel and Carpro Eraser.

POLISHING -

Being an older vehicle, there was quite a lot of rubber trim to tape on this car. That included the door trims and seals, the front and rear windscreen rubbers, the sunroof rubber surround, the old-school aerial, front windscreen scuttle, rear wiper pedestal, rear washer jet, the front chin splitter, and the various side marker lights.

It was then time to get polishing. The paint condition was great, just a lot of love marks and random isolated scratches. The gloss black rear tail lamp connecting trim was also hazed out. I had explained to the owner I wasn’t going to hammer down on the paint chasing every single scratch. I did try several combinations, gradually stepping up in aggression, and yet I wasn’t seeing a corresponding increase in defect removal. So, I wound back and played it safe, the last thing I wanted to do was burn through the clear on such a rare, original and valuable vehicle. That meant using Carpro Essence with a blue intermediate ShineMate foam pad, used in conjunction with my iBrid Nano, ShineMate EB212 3-inch and ShineMate EB351 5-inch.

I also polished the glass as it was lacking clarity. For this car, I used the brilliant Griot’s Fast Correcting Crème and a yellow ShineMate foam cutting pad. Machine choice here was the ShineMate EB212 for the side glass, and the Rupes HLR15 for the front and rear windscreens.

After removing all of the tape, I went around with Meguiar’s M39 to clean up the rubber trims and plastic bumper splitters. While attended to other tasks, I returned about an hour later with Carpro Eraser to wipe down the paint and glass.

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PROTECTION –

While Essence can be used as standalone protection, I decided to follow with a layer of Carpro Reload to bump up the gloss, slickness and protection. For the glass, I just wiped down with Opti-Coat Glass Clean & Protect. The windscreen scuttle, plastic front splitter and rear diffuser were treated with Reload as well.

I didn’t do an engine bay detail on this car, although I did give it a quick wipe down with ECH20.

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INTERIOR -

The interior didn’t really need much, nor did the owner request an interior detail. However, I did give it a quick vacuum and wipe down with ADS Pilot. The interior glass was in desperate need of cleaning, so I went over that with True Vue.

The only interior request was to take a look at the leather, the owner had noticed some mild discoloration appearing. I started with ColourLock Mild Leather Cleaner for the seats, it easily removed that discoloration and created a lovely uniform finish. For the steering wheel, gear knob and handbrake lever, I switched to Strong Leather Cleaner to cut through 30-years of grime.

From here, I applied Colour Leather Protector. Well, the leather virtually inhaled the protector, like a thirsty camel! That didn’t surprise me, the seats had NEVER been cleaned or conditioned in their 30-year life. The only maintenance has been a wipe down with a damp rag.

This was probably my favourite part of this detail, primarily because the leather responded so beautifully. The somewhat dry, patchy appearance transformed into a naturally soft, rich and uniform finish.

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FINAL TOUCHES –

The tyres were treated to a generous layer of OG Tire Dressing, then knocked back with a towel after 15-minutes. Believe it or not, these Hankook’s replaced the factory originals. As part of the final inspection, I lightly wiped the paint down with Bead Maker for a little extra pop.

RESULTS -

White is so hard to make pop, it basically hides all of your hard work. Even so, I did make a massive improvement to how the car looks. The paint was completely lacking in gloss and felt quite "dry", well now its popping and feels ultra slick. The glass polishing played a part as well, likewise getting some dressing on the tyres.

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Ready for customer pickup -

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This car is remarkable for not being some over modified beast that’s been tuned to within an inch of its life. It’s stock as a rock and all the better for it. I would love to have given it a quick run around the block to see what it felt like. Having said that, even moving it in and out of the garage was revealing. I can’t remember the last time I’ve “driven” a car with a proper throttle pedal, as in a cable going to the throttle body and not fly-by-wire. I can tell this because there was this thing called throttle response, not the totally dead and delayed fakery that’s the norm these days. The steering was surprisingly heavy, and yet this thing is sub 1300 kg. The photos make this car look bigger than in real life, its surprisingly petite and ultra-low. Jumping in the drivers seat, you sit so close to the ground, making it feel like the car is wrapped tightly around your body.

This was my first rotary experience, even if it was limited to my driveway. The starter motor throws you because it doesn’t have that off-beat alternating whirr of a piston engine, just a smooth wind-over. I have to say, I was expecting a little more zing from the engine, but with the stock exhaust it was very tame. As mentioned, throttle response was lovely, which made balancing the clutch a doddle. From what I’m told, once the second turbo takes over, the RX-7 takes off like a scalded cat. And because of how light and low it is, this is a very responsive car to drive. I love that, especially with how ****** heavy and over-sanitized cars have become. A modern sports car might be faster, safer and more comfortable. But more fun to drive? Hmmm……………….

For its age, lack of milage and almost new condition, I dare this RX-7 would be worth quite a large sum of money. Because the owner had never really “detailed” it, he remarked that it has never looked like this. Whoever buys this car is going to get a gem, I just hope it will go to the “right” person and not completely destroyed with cannon exhausts and hideous tuner-spec wheels and body kits.

Either way, it was a massive privilege to work on this car today. I adore the carefully crafted curves, the smooth look created by the pop-up headlights, and the blacked out rear lights. And those curves serve a purpose, they were aerodynamically tuned to provide low drag and meaningful downforce. With how over styled modern cars have become, there is a refreshing simplicity to this RX-7. Then consider the era that this car came from, a time when the Japanese made uniquely flavoured vehicles that no one else could match. Cars like the RX-7 could only have come from Japan.
 

hewey

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That is a stunning car. Those RX7s absolutely nailed the styling, and my wife's previous Mazda 3 gave me nothing but admiration for the brand. Great car to drive, even in the lowly 3 model.

But 1700kms a year is almost criminally low. For me the joy of having a beautiful car is in the driving. We hired an MGA for the weekend and I put 700kms on it in 2 days. I'm sure it will be prove to be a great financial investment for him.
 
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D.F.B

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WOW.

That thing is an absolute time capsule. Kudos to you for cleaning it up and restoring it without going overboard.

If I were you I'd be gently sinking my claws in to be the next potential owner :ninja:

While I love the styling and level of attention put into the driving experience, I'm not sure this is a car for me. I'm an engine guy, and while the rotary is a one of a kind, I think I'd get bored with the sound. I'm certainly not saying "if it ain't a V8, it ain't great", just that it probably lacks that character I'm looking for in an engine, as in a raspy 6-cylinder or thumping V8.

This is exactly where I thought DFB was heading!

Am I that predictable? :unsure:

Very nice! A beautiful car, I would be seriously tempted with that one!

I absolutely love the curvature of the bodywork. I normally don't like that "jellybean" look from the 90's, but this thing is just so beautiful.
That is a stunning car. Those RX7s absolutely nailed the styling, and my wife's previous Mazda 3 gave me nothing but admiration for the brand. Great car to drive, even in the lowly 3 model.

But 1700kms a year is almost criminally low. For me the joy of having a beautiful car is in the driving. We hired an MGA for the weekend and I put 700kms on it in 2 days. I'm sure it will be prove to be a great financial investment for him.

Mazda have always marched to the beat of their own drum, the rotary being a prime example of that. In recent years, they've gone to a new inline 6 platform to replace the downsized turbo 4-cylinder engines. Who would have thought a bigger and more powerful engine could be more fuel efficient than a smaller turbo 4.

In the last decade though, the presentation of their interiors is second to none at the price points each model competes in. Hell, even a base model Mazda 3 has vastly superior build quality and interior craftsmanship than a Mustang at three times the price.
 
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D.F.B

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Since release in late 2020, I've been using P&S Rag's to Riches to clean my microfiber towels. Prior to that, I was using Bowden's Microfiber Wash.

https://www.bowdensown.com.au/produ...e_vmodb7WOoMFsxGQZdhK9IQquCuOroB5HXcwQ70BpGdM

https://detailingshed.com.au/produc...1&_sid=657d88115&_ss=r&variant=37248390824095

Now, I was quite happy with the Bowden's product, it worked much better than normal laundry detergent because it didn't leave a residue behind, and therefore maintained towel performance. At the time, it was also very well priced. But then I tried R2R and never looked back.

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Rag's to Riches was developed in conjunction with The Rag Company........who better to decide what is needed to properly clean towels used with a variety of modern detailing chemicals. In particular, R2R was designed to break down and remove Si02 and polymer compounds that would otherwise cause poor absorbency and a lack of softness. While it was more expensive, R2R is more concentrated and requires less per load compared with alternative products.

The first thing I noticed after washing that first load of towels, R2R revived several that were on the verge of replacement. Instead, it restored softness and absorbency to almost new. That means I extended the life of each towel, in turn offsetting that additional price by not having to replace as often. Once again, I had little reason to change.

Overall, R2R is an excellent product that I happily recommend. The thing is, R2R is now significantly more than competitor products. I've also noticed (and tolerated) the lumpy consistency that forms at the bottom of the bottle. P&S say that is normal and not detrimental to performance, but there is no denying the jankiness on that count. I also like to explore different options rather than doggedly sticking to one brand or product, mainly because there might be something that does it's job better out there, something more efficient, something better value.

And so I've decided to give 3D Towel Kleen a try. Most detailing companies have a towel detergent. I initially looked at Carpro MFX, but was then led to this 3D product. Funnily enough, P&S and 3D are now both owned by the same parent company. It's the price that got my attention.

P&S Rags to Riches 3.78-litre (gallon) - $101.70
3D Towel Clean 3.78-litre (gallon) - $60.49
Carpro MFX 4-litre - $75.95
Bowden's Microfiber Wash 5-litre - $84.99

Now, I get those products a little cheaper, but the overall price differences remain the same. The alternatives to R2R are between $16.71 to $41.20 cheaper. After asking around, someone suggested Towel Kleen offered excellent performance, so ultimately that's the direction I took.

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I normally recommend buying a small bottle of something before committing to a gallon, I've been bitten in the past by ignoring that advice. However, 3D don't offer Towel Kleen in a smaller bottle, only the 3.78 and 18.9-litre drums. It also means using a secondary bottle to make dosing easier.

https://www.amazon.com.au/AcbbMNS-Twin-Bottles-Chamber-Chemical/dp/B0C1RJWNT1?th=1

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Will that cheaper price mean a lower level of performance? Well, I guess I'll find out soon enough.
 
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D.F.B

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After yesterdays marathon RX-7 detail, I had a massive load of towels and pads to clean. Because I used Essence and Reload, I soaked the towels and pads overnight in separate buckets with a dose of KCx Green Star. Then two separate loads through the machine with Rag's to Riches.

I then followed with a little cabinet clean out / reorg. I love doing this, refilling, emptying and consolidating bottles. I also went ahead and made a restocking list, also a favourite task.

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D.F.B

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This is what a cool change and shower of rain created the other day..............

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This was a good chance to put Optimum Touchless Decon Soap to test. I've used this a few times now, but not on a vehicle this dirty. Considering it was just dusty water spots, I assumed it would be a walk in the park for this soap.


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It seems I underestimated this dirt. While the Touchless Decon removed most of it from the paint and glass, there was still residue left behind that ultimately the contact wash sorted, Optimum's regular car soap in this case. However, the aluminium roller tonneau has been stained by this dirt, it even resisted heavy APC. So, I'm not sure what to do about this from here. The tonneau is not coated because I was warned not to by dealer when the car was purchased.
 

Mr.zippy

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Looks like it could also be expensive!
I tried a few of DFB's recommendations last year and was totally impressed, something like this will have me shopping for even more detail stuff.
I was thinking the exact same thing!
 
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D.F.B

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Placed a decent sized order with Waxit on Monday, taking advantage of a trade promotion and a Christmas gift voucher. Some of this is restocking, some new products to test. (Note, the ColourLock stuff came from them directly and not Waxit)

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Carpro GofX launched at Sema last year and represents a more user-friendly glass polish, anyone who's used CeriGlass will know what I mean here. This product is along the lines of P&S Clarity Creme, which is more a deep cleaner for glass rather than a targeted scratch remover like CeriGlass. You can buy GofX on it own or in kit form as pictured. The kit includes a 150ml bottle of GofX, a microfiber towel, a glass pad and applicator handle.

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/c...ish-cleaner-kit?_pos=2&_psq=gofx&_ss=e&_v=1.0
https://www.waxit.com.au/products/carpro-gofx-glass-polish-cleaner?_pos=1&_psq=gofx&_ss=e&_v=1.0

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I also bought a couple of Carpro's new glass cutting pads, which differ from their white Rayon glass pads. I note that these black pads are not recommended for new glass or glass in good condition, they are for targeting swirls and scratches beyond what the white rayon pads can achieve.

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/car?_pos=1&_sid=ea6dcb0c1&_ss=r
https://www.waxit.com.au/products/c...pad-velcro-75-130?_pos=1&_sid=1e87f91fc&_ss=r

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And I decided to try yet another headlight coating, this time the relatively new Carpro DLight. This is the marketing blurb....................

"DLight isn’t just another trim or headlight ceramic coating it’s a ceramic-grade solution developed to preserve and protect plastics from the inside out. At its core, DLight is armed with advanced UV absorbers and light stabilisers that shield against UVA and UVB rays in the 260–360nm range, including the most destructive 313nm UVB spectrum. That means better protection from yellowing, fading, and cracking - especially for headlights, PPF, and clear plastics that are prone to aging in harsh climates.

Beyond UV defence, DLight adds hydrophobicity, enhances clarity, and resists fine scratches. It goes on easy, requires minimal effort to level off, and can even serve as a top coat to extend the lifespan of your base layer. Whether you're preserving new PPF or restoring tired headlights, DLight makes it easier to keep plastics looking sharp for years."


https://www.waxit.com.au/collections/carpro/products/carpro-dlight-uv-blocking-plastic-coating

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I guess I'll find out soon enough if this is just another coating, or if it truly helps extend the time between refinishing the headlights on the Ranger. Note that my 10ml bottle didn't come with a box, just a sealed plastic pouch.
 
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D.F.B

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I’ve been seeing a lot of social media advertising for “natural” or “eco” weed killers lately.

This is nothing new, I remember researching this topic as part of my horticulture training in the mid 2000’s. Back then, pine oil was considered a safe/natural alternative to typical herbicides. Since then, the desire to move away from glyphosate-based chemicals has become stronger and stronger, particularly among homeowners. A lot of that has to do with the cancer risk associated with glyphosate, and the push from major retailers into selling “safer” alternatives (ie less risk of being sued). I’m not sure where I stand on that, some claim a lack of clear evidence regarding the caner risks, and I also have reservations as to how much “safer” the alternatives are.

That main alternative being products based on Nonanoic Acid. This type of chemical has become the leading alternative to round-up style weed killers and works very differently. Glyphosate is absorbed into the foliage and is distributed throughout the entire plant, including the root system, killing the plant within a week or two. Nonanoic Acid is a knock-down style chemical, meaning it “burns the sh.t” out of the foliage within a few hours, rendering the plant without the means to photosynthesise. Like anything, there are pros and cons to the acidic products -

PROS -

- Non-toxic
- Faster acting (hours, not weeks)
- Safe for people and pets and
- Environmentally friendly
- Biodegradable
- No withholding period
- Less resistance over time
- Effective on glyphosate-resistant weeds (Fleabane)
- Effective on moss and algae

CONS -

- Despite claims, you will often get regrowth from perennial weeds
- You need considerably more product per litre of water to achieve the desired results
- Not as cost effective because of the lack of concentration
- Very stinky

My question is, how much “safer” are these Nonanoic Acid products? You need to use waaaay more per litre when compared to glyphosate, which means a higher concentration of the chemical in the spray drift. And because it won’t always completely kill the weed, you need to spray more often, exposing yourself to the chemical more often. Swings and roundabouts. Also, just because it says “natural” or “non toxic”, that doesn’t mean it's safe to use without appropriate PPE, it can still cause skin corrosion and irritation, and serious eye damage.

The prompt for this post was after seeing new products pop up as an alternative to the well-known Slasher. One such product is called FireHawk Bioherbicide. What caught my eye with this one was the lower concentration of the active ingredient, Nonanoic Acid.

Slasher – 525 g/L
FireHawk – 444 g/L

And yet FireHawk recommend less per litre than the stronger Slasher. In that regard, I’ve noticed you can use Slasher effectively at 50ml per litre, something the company rep told us as well.

Slasher Per Litre – 70ml
FireHawk Per Litre – 50ml

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For me, I use Slasher to control Fleabane, which cannot be controlled with Roundup due to its vegetive make up. But then I also know that it’s expensive to use, especially if you have to apply it more often on perennial weeds.
 
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D.F.B

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I'm always amazed at the amount of cleaning products you try out but really appreciate the detailed reviews you post on them

I often see people mouthing off about how you don't need x-amount of products and tools to clean a car properly. While there is some truth to that, those comments are often made by professional production-line detailers who use Megs D101 for just about everything, from wheel and tyre cleaning, to pre-treatments and bug removal, interior and leather cleaning...................

And yet, that mentality doesn't account for those who enjoy trying new products and tools. So, while I never needed to buy and try more than 60 different car wash soaps, I've enjoyed the discovery process.......................... the thrill of the chase. Yes, it's a waste of money, but we ALL have something we pursue with obsession, something that consumes more money than makes logical sense.

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D.F.B

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The Ranger's turn today, a bit of a hybrid wash was on the cards.

First, as normal I hosed out the tray. I then went around and foamed all four wheels with Optimum Touchless, then scrubbed each tyre, then rinsed. I'm not impressed with this soap, even on wheels with a healthy coating, it doesn't really do the "touchless" thing. Optimum say this is a pH neutral soap, but I pH tested it today as part of a project I'm working on. Interestingly, in both concentrate and diluted forms, it registered at a pH of 9.0. Yet another "pre-cleaning" decon soap that doesn't really do anything.

From there, I rinsed the car down, then moved back into the garage for a rinse-less wash with ADS Hero, followed by ADS Amplify. As you can see, I had a "helper".......................

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From there, the door jambs and tray sides were dried with Shine Supply Punch It, glass via Hero at 128:1, Griots Interior Detailer for the inside wipe down, and finally some 1:1 Carpro Perl for the tyres.
 
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D.F.B

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I finally sold the Mustang 750iS today. Being priced as it was, and on a platform like Marketplace, it took two price reductions and 6-weeks to sell. In the end, I'm happy to have it out of the way, and ultimately the price I got for it.

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The guy bought it for his father in-law, who struggles with pull starting, so the electric start was the selling point here.

"Why are you selling it.........."

Umm, well................I have too many mowers.

I showed him how to start it, the new air filter, never used mulch plug, owners manuals. He then tipped it up to inspect the blades, which then had fuel pouring out of the air filter, his wife then asked if that's where you filled the petrol tank. Umm, no...............

Anyway, they got a basically brand-new mower, no doubt it won't look like that for very long.
 
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thomfr

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The Netherlands
Hi!

What a lovely topic and nice to see the totally different cars around your continent (which I was lucky enough to visit for 5 weeks in 2008, still fond memories).

I normally use Maguiars rich leather feeder/cleaner for the seats of our 09’ Volvo V70 as there is not much offered (at least off line) else at car shops. Still recommended?

And now I drive a ’25 Volvo XC60 T6 as company car which has the comfort seats with so called “bio-attributed Charcoal Nordico non vet material” which I call a modern fake leather. I want to keep also this material clean and nice mat looking. What kind of maintenance do you suggest?

Thank you in advance for your feedback and sorry for hijacking your topic.

Thom

The Netherlands

ps: What a lovely dog btw! Our doggie was totally ugly while being a pup (like all Tollers) but I love it to the moon since then.
 

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